Thank you for your videos on printing and timing the receiver.I have a post-64 Mod 70 375 H&H that the rear of the bolt is partially separated (.002 crack) just in front of the bolt handle (I'm guessing it is made in 2 pieces) and I wanted to understand what would be involved in replacing with a new bolt.The old bolt does not close on a Forster Go-Gauge and the new bolt I bought from Numrich closes less than halfway on an empty chamber.I was going to check the new bolt after removing barrel next
You have to understand that each bolt would have to be head spaced with the barrel you have. Sometimes one can remove metal from the back side of the bolt lugs and sometimes you can't and have to either set the barrel back and re-chamber to get the correct headspace. My advice is to get the problem corrected before you shoot it.
no welding is done on the lug area ever. These are hardened. What I do is set back the barrel . The thread pitch on a 700 is 1-16 so every complete turn is .0625 thousands. I set it back that amount and open up the chamber to the correct headspace and the sights are back in the correct position.
The bolt was put into a jig and when both ends of the bolt body ran true I cleaned up the back side of the lugs, the bolt face and the front side of the lugs. Removing as little metal as possible.
The bolt was put into a jig and when both ends of the bolt body ran true I cleaned up the back side of the lugs, the bolt face and the front side of the lugs. Removing as little metal as possible.
@sgr218 did you build up the bolt with weld then machine it down , with all the machining down without building up the loss would not the bolt play between the bolt lug and the reciever hand the round have dangerous play , but if you bulit up the bolt with weld and machined it down , welding weakens the steel around the weld that would be dangerous too right , what do you do to take up the play is what I'm trying to say and stilll have the gun safe to shoot
No Welding is done on the lugs......I only remove .001 to .002 off the bolt lugs...... this sets the bolt back that amount and you have to re-move the bolt handle and re-time it so you do not loose all your cam.... nothing more to it. Plain and simple.
Normally when you print the receiver and bolt you do it b/4 you install a new barrel. If your not going to install a new barrel then you have to set the barrel back one or more rounds and open up the chamber to the correct length.
@sgr218 that means if you have a fixed front sight you have to rotate the front sight the corrosponding radial distance to keep the front sight center straight , other wise you have to go exactly one turn , thats touch , alot of fitting and refitting to get it perfect
I believe the gentlemen just didn't understand the concept. That's too bad but does happen. When checking out a smith your better off with one that does it full time than one that has another 8 hour job and works on guns in his spare time.
NO, NEVER. No need to hand lap after setting up in the lathe and making things concentric and parallel.Lapping does nothing for squareness of the lugs and normally you make the raceway larger just behind the lugs. I have always maintained that lapping is a waste of time and does nothing for accuracy. If you have .006 slop in the raceway as most Remington actions do .... where do you hold the bolt...to the top of the raceway or bottome of the raceway or at a angle?
I wonder. Do you hand lap a printed action after you finish all of the machine work to the integral lugs, bolt lugs, action threads, and action to recoil lug face (Remington action). I am looking at that wear to the bolt lugs and thinking, "This can't be a good thing to do to a newly printed action!"
Thank you for your videos on printing and timing the receiver.I have a post-64 Mod 70 375 H&H that the rear of the bolt is partially separated (.002 crack) just in front of the bolt handle (I'm guessing it is made in 2 pieces) and I wanted to understand what would be involved in replacing with a new bolt.The old bolt does not close on a Forster Go-Gauge and the new bolt I bought from Numrich closes less than halfway on an empty chamber.I was going to check the new bolt after removing barrel next
AkGrayWolf 1 year ago
@AkGrayWolf
You have to understand that each bolt would have to be head spaced with the barrel you have. Sometimes one can remove metal from the back side of the bolt lugs and sometimes you can't and have to either set the barrel back and re-chamber to get the correct headspace. My advice is to get the problem corrected before you shoot it.
sgr218 1 year ago
Sir,
no welding is done on the lug area ever. These are hardened. What I do is set back the barrel . The thread pitch on a 700 is 1-16 so every complete turn is .0625 thousands. I set it back that amount and open up the chamber to the correct headspace and the sights are back in the correct position.
SGR
sgr218 1 year ago
what are you going to do to fix the locking
bolt are you going to weld the back part of the lus and then machine them down I would thing that the bold would be junk for waht someone had done
jhunted7667 2 years ago
The integral lugs were true up and only .001 to .002 was removed. I then timed the bolt handle and silver soldered it back on.
SGR
sgr218 2 years ago
what did you build up the bolts lugs with so the bolt would stay tight against the round to get rid of the play holding it snug againt the barrel rim
jhunted7667 2 years ago
@jhunted7667
The locking lugs were set up and printed. The bolt handle was then silver soldered back on.
SGR
sgr218 1 year ago
what doe's that mean in english please
jhunted7667 1 year ago
@jhunted7667
The bolt was put into a jig and when both ends of the bolt body ran true I cleaned up the back side of the lugs, the bolt face and the front side of the lugs. Removing as little metal as possible.
sgr218 1 year ago
@jhunted7667
The bolt was put into a jig and when both ends of the bolt body ran true I cleaned up the back side of the lugs, the bolt face and the front side of the lugs. Removing as little metal as possible.
sgr218 1 year ago
@sgr218 did you build up the bolt with weld then machine it down , with all the machining down without building up the loss would not the bolt play between the bolt lug and the reciever hand the round have dangerous play , but if you bulit up the bolt with weld and machined it down , welding weakens the steel around the weld that would be dangerous too right , what do you do to take up the play is what I'm trying to say and stilll have the gun safe to shoot
jhunted7667 1 year ago
@jhunted7667
No Welding is done on the lugs......I only remove .001 to .002 off the bolt lugs...... this sets the bolt back that amount and you have to re-move the bolt handle and re-time it so you do not loose all your cam.... nothing more to it. Plain and simple.
sgr218 1 year ago
@sgr218 what do you do about the head space between the round and the bolt face don't you end up with a space between the bolt face the barrel
jhunted7667 1 year ago
@jhunted7667
Normally when you print the receiver and bolt you do it b/4 you install a new barrel. If your not going to install a new barrel then you have to set the barrel back one or more rounds and open up the chamber to the correct length.
SGR
sgr218 1 year ago
@sgr218 that means if you have a fixed front sight you have to rotate the front sight the corrosponding radial distance to keep the front sight center straight , other wise you have to go exactly one turn , thats touch , alot of fitting and refitting to get it perfect
jhunted7667 1 year ago
That other gunsmith is a disaster. Somebody needs to take away his tools!
Theriomalstrom 2 years ago
I believe the gentlemen just didn't understand the concept. That's too bad but does happen. When checking out a smith your better off with one that does it full time than one that has another 8 hour job and works on guns in his spare time.
SGR
sgr218 2 years ago
NO, NEVER. No need to hand lap after setting up in the lathe and making things concentric and parallel.Lapping does nothing for squareness of the lugs and normally you make the raceway larger just behind the lugs. I have always maintained that lapping is a waste of time and does nothing for accuracy. If you have .006 slop in the raceway as most Remington actions do .... where do you hold the bolt...to the top of the raceway or bottome of the raceway or at a angle?
sgr218 3 years ago
I wonder. Do you hand lap a printed action after you finish all of the machine work to the integral lugs, bolt lugs, action threads, and action to recoil lug face (Remington action). I am looking at that wear to the bolt lugs and thinking, "This can't be a good thing to do to a newly printed action!"
nosegunner 3 years ago