Great video. The annotations of the shutter speed are totally wrong though. 1/25th sec is not 0.4, it's 0.04, and the shutter speeds of 0.5 and 0.6 are probably supposed to be 1/50th and 1/60.
Jeez, did you mortgage that property behind you to pay for that Hasselblad?! I'll just hang out quietly with my 60D for a bit, twiddling my thumbs and counting my pennies until I have enough to invest in a 3-generations-old 5D 12.8mp as my first FF! Not got a spare one lying around, have you?
@rogerman30 yes you can, I've seen some of the best photos in my life taken with an Canon XS and kit lens which has been dubbed as a "glorified rear lens cap" by DPreview by one reviewer. Its all in how you drive it, its the difference between being a Guy With Camera (GWC) or a real balls out photog. though for an A200 you'll want a wireless trigger and light stands for an external flash (if you have it)
I'm tired of watching videos that spoon feed me fish. I want to learn how to catch them myself! I have yet to see a flash tutorial that explains WHY certain settings are used. I know that there has to be a relationship between aperture, ISO and flash power but no one seems to know or want to explain how they interact. Please don't make me have to chimp my camera on set to figure this out!
@theraginggiblets unless you have the exact same flash . and set it to the same power setting .. distance , same light modifier. same reflective or no reflective back ground and all the other variables .. you can be told this is the settings. Learn the relationship of how ISO , exposure Fstop, and shutter speeds change your photos. then add a Strobe. you have to understand that to start . REad the comments by BloatedSensations
As a rule of thumb, I will always shoot at 100ISO (200 for Nikon), which allows for optimum quality, low noise and better dynamic range and would rarely use anything higher within a studio environment. If on location, I will assess and meter each scene individually according to available light and lighting style."
The higher the ISO and the slower the shutter, the more ambient light will fill the frame. Essentially, it is a trade-off between ISO and shutter speed and it depends entirely on the environment and lighting conditions within which you're shooting.
"The camera was set to 800ISO to compensate for the lack of ambient light, not flash light. The concept behind the tutorial is using a single flash to illuminate a subject and then 'dragging the shutter'; that is to say, using a much slower shutter speed to allow the ambient light/ background scenery to expose properly. The increased ISO is merely utilised to prevent the shutter speed from getting too slow, which would greatly increase to probability of motion blur.
@bowenstv this is wrong. The flash it self will freeze the frame. ISO with flash doesnt effect the shutter speed. When using a flash, the Shutter controls ONLY Ambient Light. The ISO and Aperture ONLY control the flash (power/intensity).
Why did you shoot at ISO 800? I've noticed lots of photographers shooting with higher ISOs on these tutorials when a strobe is involved. Is it so you could get the tight aperture exemplified in strobe photography but still expose for some ambient?
@blickblocks when you shoot at 800 iso it will allow you to shoot quicker and since hes at f/11. But Ambient is ONLY controlled by shutter. ISO and Aperture ONLY affect the flash.
@kmedina419 "Ambient is ONLY controlled by shutter. ISO and Aperture ONLY affect the flash." - That's simply not true. ISO will effect both flash and ambient. Aperture will effect ambient as well when using flash, and shutter-speed will effect flash, but to such a small relative degree that, in practice, it's useful for beginners to remember that "aperture controls flash, shutter-speed controls ambient." But, ISO will have a pronounced degree of effect on both ambient and flash...
@kmedina419 ...For example: If you have dialed in a perfect exposure on a subject that's lit by a strobe, at, say 200 ISO, if you then bump your ISO to 400 and do not change your flash-power or distance, nor your aperture, nor you shutter-speed, and you take another picture, your new photo will, in fact, be overexposed by one stop. So, double your ISO and you will overexpose that flash by a stop - as well as making the ambient one stop brighter.
@grimiiie Actually the burst of light from your flash will have a very short duration, so your shutter speed won't have any effect (below the sync speed, usually 1/250s) on the exposure of the flash in your picture. You can either change the flash exposure or use your aperture; low numbers, big apertures, will let more light in and vice versa. You can think of ambient as a base exposure which you're adding flashlight to. If you've got a digital camera, it's free to practice and learn.
@grimiiie well basically aperture is the size of the hole that lets light in, and shutterspeed the time that hole will be open. if you have a high speed, you will capture a lot of the flash light and the ambience will be overpowered. if you start taking the speed down a bit, then you will get more of the ambience light and in between the discharge of flash. besides having slower speeds will allow you to use less power of the flash or use higher aperture numbers which influences sharpness
Great video. The annotations of the shutter speed are totally wrong though. 1/25th sec is not 0.4, it's 0.04, and the shutter speeds of 0.5 and 0.6 are probably supposed to be 1/50th and 1/60.
spoddie 3 days ago
Jeez, did you mortgage that property behind you to pay for that Hasselblad?! I'll just hang out quietly with my 60D for a bit, twiddling my thumbs and counting my pennies until I have enough to invest in a 3-generations-old 5D 12.8mp as my first FF! Not got a spare one lying around, have you?
DrewKF 4 days ago
You don't have a backdrop, but you have a hasselblad.. seems legit
nazgulp35 1 week ago
@nazgulp35 didnt want to use a background they wanted to have the flash fill in the light on the model.
llleolllolll 4 days ago
I LOVE this model. She's so hot, but so innocent looking
commandercool1983 1 week ago
What kind of wide angle did you use
gamillama 2 weeks ago
@gamillama looks like the 24-70 f2.8
spiderman146 2 weeks ago
Very very helpful.
goops2424 3 weeks ago
I'd like to try a few positions with that model myself
Ninjalectual 3 weeks ago 3
nicely done tutorial!
StreetImageFotos 1 month ago
Nice video! What lens did you use for the first shot? (Sitting on the newspapers)?
Daz85UK 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
Comment removed
Daz85UK 1 month ago
I like it, Guys you make it sound easy, but u have high end cameras, you can't achive all of that with a Sony A200 with basic lense, can you?
greate job u do. i will keep watching and learning
thanks
rogerman30 1 month ago
@rogerman30 yes you can, I've seen some of the best photos in my life taken with an Canon XS and kit lens which has been dubbed as a "glorified rear lens cap" by DPreview by one reviewer. Its all in how you drive it, its the difference between being a Guy With Camera (GWC) or a real balls out photog. though for an A200 you'll want a wireless trigger and light stands for an external flash (if you have it)
TheIamfrustrated 1 month ago
I'm tired of watching videos that spoon feed me fish. I want to learn how to catch them myself! I have yet to see a flash tutorial that explains WHY certain settings are used. I know that there has to be a relationship between aperture, ISO and flash power but no one seems to know or want to explain how they interact. Please don't make me have to chimp my camera on set to figure this out!
theraginggiblets 2 months ago
@theraginggiblets unless you have the exact same flash . and set it to the same power setting .. distance , same light modifier. same reflective or no reflective back ground and all the other variables .. you can be told this is the settings. Learn the relationship of how ISO , exposure Fstop, and shutter speeds change your photos. then add a Strobe. you have to understand that to start . REad the comments by BloatedSensations
MSCSphoto 1 month ago
amazing and great.
artesqproductions 2 months ago
Sorry I meant kmedina419
MrJonni70 2 months ago
@knadina419. I think you need to study more as you are wrong in both.
Well presented. Thanks for the tutorial. Subscribed!
MrJonni70 2 months ago
so hot.
Nebelvir123987 4 months ago
blickblocks - Reply Part 3
As a rule of thumb, I will always shoot at 100ISO (200 for Nikon), which allows for optimum quality, low noise and better dynamic range and would rarely use anything higher within a studio environment. If on location, I will assess and meter each scene individually according to available light and lighting style."
bowenstv 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@bowenstv well, you always use lightroom for sharpening and detail recovery.
sjphs 1 month ago
blickblocks - Reply Part 2
The higher the ISO and the slower the shutter, the more ambient light will fill the frame. Essentially, it is a trade-off between ISO and shutter speed and it depends entirely on the environment and lighting conditions within which you're shooting.
bowenstv 4 months ago
@bowenstv ISO doesnt effect the ambient light. Only the shutter speed controls the ambient light.
kmedina419 2 months ago
blickblocks - Reply Part 1
"The camera was set to 800ISO to compensate for the lack of ambient light, not flash light. The concept behind the tutorial is using a single flash to illuminate a subject and then 'dragging the shutter'; that is to say, using a much slower shutter speed to allow the ambient light/ background scenery to expose properly. The increased ISO is merely utilised to prevent the shutter speed from getting too slow, which would greatly increase to probability of motion blur.
bowenstv 4 months ago
@bowenstv this is wrong. The flash it self will freeze the frame. ISO with flash doesnt effect the shutter speed. When using a flash, the Shutter controls ONLY Ambient Light. The ISO and Aperture ONLY control the flash (power/intensity).
kmedina419 2 months ago
Why did you shoot at ISO 800? I've noticed lots of photographers shooting with higher ISOs on these tutorials when a strobe is involved. Is it so you could get the tight aperture exemplified in strobe photography but still expose for some ambient?
blickblocks 4 months ago
@blickblocks when you shoot at 800 iso it will allow you to shoot quicker and since hes at f/11. But Ambient is ONLY controlled by shutter. ISO and Aperture ONLY affect the flash.
kmedina419 2 months ago
@kmedina419 "Ambient is ONLY controlled by shutter. ISO and Aperture ONLY affect the flash." - That's simply not true. ISO will effect both flash and ambient. Aperture will effect ambient as well when using flash, and shutter-speed will effect flash, but to such a small relative degree that, in practice, it's useful for beginners to remember that "aperture controls flash, shutter-speed controls ambient." But, ISO will have a pronounced degree of effect on both ambient and flash...
BloatedSensations 1 month ago
@kmedina419 ...For example: If you have dialed in a perfect exposure on a subject that's lit by a strobe, at, say 200 ISO, if you then bump your ISO to 400 and do not change your flash-power or distance, nor your aperture, nor you shutter-speed, and you take another picture, your new photo will, in fact, be overexposed by one stop. So, double your ISO and you will overexpose that flash by a stop - as well as making the ambient one stop brighter.
BloatedSensations 1 month ago
what lights are you using?
rezrocknj 5 months ago
@grimiiie Actually the burst of light from your flash will have a very short duration, so your shutter speed won't have any effect (below the sync speed, usually 1/250s) on the exposure of the flash in your picture. You can either change the flash exposure or use your aperture; low numbers, big apertures, will let more light in and vice versa. You can think of ambient as a base exposure which you're adding flashlight to. If you've got a digital camera, it's free to practice and learn.
BJEPhoto 5 months ago
amazing video!
i didn't really understand the shutterspeed because i'm no real cameraman, (like what
difference it makes.)
BUT the rest was really what i looked for!
grimiiie 6 months ago
@grimiiie well basically aperture is the size of the hole that lets light in, and shutterspeed the time that hole will be open. if you have a high speed, you will capture a lot of the flash light and the ambience will be overpowered. if you start taking the speed down a bit, then you will get more of the ambience light and in between the discharge of flash. besides having slower speeds will allow you to use less power of the flash or use higher aperture numbers which influences sharpness
veracarvalho 6 months ago
well well. shutter speed is not relevant when there's no ambient light.. what bout the exposure?
floling 6 months ago
Finally! A video like this in English Language!!! Thank you.
ptlofts 8 months ago
Crazy! she looks like the model I just shot the other day :-) pretty
rezjrprod 8 months ago
whoa is that a hassalblad?
lastcomicleft 9 months ago
very informative video.
I'm definitely sure you can afford Canon 70-200 f2.8L lens..
why use Sigma 70-200? any particular reason?
w3i5do 1 year ago
o yeah east european, russian or polish, shes very pretty
tomekmisiewicz 1 year ago
well well that Monica us just gorgerus, looks like west european, great video
tomekmisiewicz 1 year ago