1994 Toshiba CF26C30 , 26 inch TV. Intermittent power up. Part 8, Will it Werk?

[HardKnocks60]

I would conjecture to say that, should the need arise, you can probably get replacement parts, such as ICs, for your television set. I had to get a replacement voltage regulator IC for my old 1984 Sears TV, and had no problem finding a new one at greatplainselectronics (dot) com.

You have impressive and enviable powers of deductive reasoning in addressing this problem; you appear to think like an engineer.

[Lockemeister]

@HardKnocks60 Thanks! That's great because I really want to fix this. The Picture tube is still good and bright.

The resolution is very good. Much better than most LCD's I've seen in analog mode.

Have analog service at the house.

Part 10 wil have me get to brass tacks. I've been working up slow for a reason. I don;t want people to take their sets apart and start working on them and get injured. I figgure if someone doesn't have the patience to watch the videos, they won't fix the set!

[mznxb9872]

What a pisser....to spend all that time on it, and still not have it work....very frustrating, I'm sure. Those intermittent problems are always the worst.

[Lockemeister]

@mznxb9872 no worries...i aint done yet

[Lockemeister]

@mznxb9872 ain't is a contraction of aint not and is perfectly good english!

[grassulo]

@Lockemeister get out your DVOM turn the set on it's face, leave it switched on and start checking voltages, then track back in the circuit till you don't find the voltage you need and inspect suspect component. I've had to do this very thing with my crt projector and that has WAY more parts than this tv, and also a healthy 48kv three lead flyback, scary high voltages going to those 3 crt's!

[Lockemeister]

@grassulo I can check some volatages but not all. the board is not exposed well and the leads dressing is not sufficient long enough to allow board removal while also powering up. Measuing voltages if possible was my next step. thanks for the great comment.

[Lockemeister]

@grassulo i was hoping you made some videos since you had some inspirational message, but I guess you ain't got none.

[Lockemeister]

@MrDennis8805 The old relay was single pole that was normally open. The new relay was dual pole with normally ooen AND normally closed. I made sure to use only the normally open contacts like the old relay.

Both relays have the pins for the coil to be energized.

If I used the new relay was normally closed. Then the set would be on as soon as it's plugged in the wall, and then using the remote to turn the set on, would actually turn the set off.

[Lockemeister]

@MrDennis8805 The old relay was single pole that was normally open. The new relay was dual pole with normally ooen AND normally closed. I made sure to use only the normally open contacts like the old relay.

Both relays have the pins for the coil to be energized.

If I used the new relay was normally closed. Then the set would be on as soon as it's plugged in the wall, and then using the remote to turn the set on, would actually turn the set off.

[umajunkcollector]

""for entertainment purposes only kids"! hey hey hey me be entertained John - back to the drawing board. This is a job for Beakman's World!

[Lockemeister]

@umajunkcollector I'm glad I'm entertaining somebody!

hoooraaay for hollywood!

[Lockemeister]

@umajunkcollector I did like the lab rat on that show. The girl assistant was cute. youknowwhatimean?

[mukerjea]

That really sucks. Now what is your course of action?

[Lockemeister]

@mukerjea Well I've had a good track record of winning. Now it's time to punt.

Like I mentioned in the end of the video. I have to concentrate on why I don't have the 9V to power up the power on LED. Either it isn't there, or something is loading it down. I hope it's not a chip loading it down because I do not know if I can still get these 18 year old IC's.

[mukerjea]

@Lockemeister Lets keep out fingers crossed.