Everybody and their brother Ernie understands if you're trying to promote a product on video you open the video showing the product in use. You open showing a bunch of bars on a blanket.
What could you possibly have against showing it in use voice except that you didn't think to do it?
@ricland If you read the description below the video, you would see that I have multiple videos showing the device in use lol. Way to jump to conclusions. This is the walkthrough of the parts for the steadicam!
What are you kidding me? Thank you for showing step by step how to do this...Why are you so hard on this guy? Couldn't you have just asked if he had a video if you didn't see one?
You said "promote a product" I don't think he is doing that. I think he is showing you how to build one. There is a difference. Go to a page where someone is trying to promote and sell a product if that's what you are looking for.
@ricland What are you talking about? The establishing shot shows the device on the ground... lol... I would assume if you are watching this video that you know what a Steadicam Merlin is.
@ricland If you typed "Steadicam" in the search box, you obviously know what you're looking at. If you used "DYI" as a tag along with the word "Steadicam", you're obviously here for that sole purpose.
Anyone who doesn't know what a Steadicam is and ended up here has no business watching this video. Everyone who knows what a Steadicam is knows exactly what it's for and why this video was made.
This video was not meant to be exciting, it just shows the parts he used for his design.
All the DIY solutions I've seen seem to be made for smaller DV cams. I'm attempting to build some sort of steadicam for a Canon XH-A1, which with accessories seems to be in the 10lb range. Could you comment on whether or not it is advisable to use this design with a larger camera? Thanks, and great video.
@wogfun 10 lbs may be a little too much for the gimble arm. I have actually been looking for a greater load bearing u-joint for this purpose. I found one that may work better, but I have not tested it yet. I will let you know once I do.
Thanks for the info, tempting to attempt but even if I made a good one I wouldn't trust my new DSLR on this especially while moving fast. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion with great success, it's enabled me to capture some amazingly steady shots.
@seanmobar23 This was made over a year ago... back then the max was only 10 minutes unfortunately. This year YouTube decided to do away with the ten minute limit.
@ButterOnMyBiscuit You take one sheet metal screw and place it along with a washer through the bearing in your slip and thread joint... do this from the inside out... so that the screw head is inside the slip and thread joint and the screw thread is coming out the top. Then just screw it into the male piece of the U-joint. The male U-joint piece has a tiny hole in each piece that the screw should fit in and self thread perfectly.
Ok, but it seems the Traxxas 1951 will arrive just in 2 weeks. :S And I thinkin g to made the body from aluminium as I saw on diycamera. But I create one. :)
Thanks for the video. I'm going to give is a shot. Just one question regarding the U-Joint. Did you use the Traxxas 1951 or Traxxas 5151? You had referrenced WCLATER's design. I checked his sight and he started with the 1951 but then moved to the 5151 later on.
@rojoque No problem! I used the Traxxas 1951. At first I used only the male part of the joint... but then as I demoed in later videos I cut off the female ends and fed them over top of the male ends to give it more support where you screw it in at. Also, be sure to check out the video for the trimmable stage add-on... it's a must have add-on and only costs a few dollars more.
@DrJoshD Thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the Traxxas 5151's and I think I can work with those. Now I am assuming that you have to remove one bearing from one of the traxxas joints and attach the one without a joint bearing to the studs on the other joint with a bearing. My problem is that the removal of the bearing isn't as easy as I thought. How did you go about doing this? I'm assuming a pair of pliers and a screwdriver would do the trick but I fear that I might damage the joint.
@rojoque Well to pry open the joint end to slip the metal bearing in it, I used a flat head screw driver that had a wider head than the gap in the joint end. I put the head in the joint end and twisted the screw driver to allow the screw driver head to gently and smoothly push on the joint end to expand it just enough to slip the bearing in it. I originally tried a pair of pliers but it messed up one end, making it too loose. Does that make sense?
@DrJoshD I was able to create the gimble. I actually went with 2 5" schedule 80 pvc pipes and a threaded T joint for the top bar. I then attached a second a male threaded slip joint to the T-Joint with a skate bearing attached to the U-joint and followed your design for the handle. The challenge that I am running into now is getting the proper balance. I saw your video on the trimmage stage and I plan to make that out of two wood pieces.
@rojoque Good deal! Make sure you use light weight wood. The extra weight there will make the rig even heavier (remember you have to counterbalance anything added to the top). Once you have a trimmable stage, get on a bed or something soft and try and balance your camera on one finger. Try and find the center of gravity. Once you do, make a visual note of that spot and attach your trimmable stage. Adjust the stage so that the part that attaches to the rig matches the center of gravity spot.
@rojoque Also, in terms of finding the proper balance... at first it's really hard and it takes forever... Once you get the right amount of counterweights, it gets a little easier, but it will be a lot of trial and error of moving weights around to get the drop time to be at least 1 second.
Great diy but perhaps 8" pipes instead of 10" just to make the design a bit smaller works just as good. Nevertheless, super inexpensive steadicam that works without having to spend a fortune.
Thanks for showing actually showing every single part you used. will make it easier for others to go out and buy them.
@defnyung Hey no problem! I thought about the 8" pipes instead, but I chose the longer ones due to not having enough room for a decent handle... I guess if I shortened the u-joint pieces that would fix that problem.
Another reason I made them longer is because I had planned on making an arm and vest, and I thought it may require a little more clearance... Can't wait until I get finished with that... makes filming so much easier.
You speak too much. Show us video
exes9378 1 month ago
Everybody and their brother Ernie understands if you're trying to promote a product on video you open the video showing the product in use. You open showing a bunch of bars on a blanket.
What could you possibly have against showing it in use voice except that you didn't think to do it?
ricland 2 months ago
@ricland If you read the description below the video, you would see that I have multiple videos showing the device in use lol. Way to jump to conclusions. This is the walkthrough of the parts for the steadicam!
DrJoshD 2 months ago
What are you kidding me? Thank you for showing step by step how to do this...Why are you so hard on this guy? Couldn't you have just asked if he had a video if you didn't see one?
michman5614 1 week ago
You said "promote a product" I don't think he is doing that. I think he is showing you how to build one. There is a difference. Go to a page where someone is trying to promote and sell a product if that's what you are looking for.
michman5614 1 week ago
Extremely boring mainly because no establishing shot showing people what you're building and why.
You start the clip describing the parts of the thing, and that's flat wrong.
ricland 2 months ago
@ricland What are you talking about? The establishing shot shows the device on the ground... lol... I would assume if you are watching this video that you know what a Steadicam Merlin is.
DrJoshD 2 months ago
@ricland If you typed "Steadicam" in the search box, you obviously know what you're looking at. If you used "DYI" as a tag along with the word "Steadicam", you're obviously here for that sole purpose.
Anyone who doesn't know what a Steadicam is and ended up here has no business watching this video. Everyone who knows what a Steadicam is knows exactly what it's for and why this video was made.
This video was not meant to be exciting, it just shows the parts he used for his design.
galloe 1 month ago
All the DIY solutions I've seen seem to be made for smaller DV cams. I'm attempting to build some sort of steadicam for a Canon XH-A1, which with accessories seems to be in the 10lb range. Could you comment on whether or not it is advisable to use this design with a larger camera? Thanks, and great video.
wogfun 4 months ago
@wogfun 10 lbs may be a little too much for the gimble arm. I have actually been looking for a greater load bearing u-joint for this purpose. I found one that may work better, but I have not tested it yet. I will let you know once I do.
DrJoshD 4 months ago
Part list?
tyler8186 5 months ago
@tyler8186 I will try and list the parts ASAP.
DrJoshD 5 months ago
can you list the parts in the description?
TheMoo1231 7 months ago
Thanks for the info, tempting to attempt but even if I made a good one I wouldn't trust my new DSLR on this especially while moving fast. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion with great success, it's enabled me to capture some amazingly steady shots.
avonsworld 7 months ago
i've uploaded videos longer than ten minutes...?
seanmobar23 8 months ago
@seanmobar23 This was made over a year ago... back then the max was only 10 minutes unfortunately. This year YouTube decided to do away with the ten minute limit.
DrJoshD 8 months ago
8:27 i dont understand how you use those sheet metal screws to attach the U-joint to the bearings...
ButterOnMyBiscuit 9 months ago
@ButterOnMyBiscuit You take one sheet metal screw and place it along with a washer through the bearing in your slip and thread joint... do this from the inside out... so that the screw head is inside the slip and thread joint and the screw thread is coming out the top. Then just screw it into the male piece of the U-joint. The male U-joint piece has a tiny hole in each piece that the screw should fit in and self thread perfectly.
DrJoshD 9 months ago
Nice but for 30 you can buy one !
jamesprankerd 10 months ago
@jamesprankerd Lol... you can't buy a Merlin for $30.... closer to $800
DrJoshD 10 months ago
@jamesprankerd DUMMY!
HectorAndresMayoral 8 months ago
started creating one... :) I'll post a video too when complete.
gyurxi551 11 months ago
@gyurxi551 Awesome! Look forward to seeing it!
DrJoshD 11 months ago
@DrJoshD
Ok, but it seems the Traxxas 1951 will arrive just in 2 weeks. :S And I thinkin g to made the body from aluminium as I saw on diycamera. But I create one. :)
gyurxi551 11 months ago
good job
SongsInBeeMinor 11 months ago
@SongsInBeeMinor Thanks! It's a lot better now with the trimmable stage add-on
DrJoshD 11 months ago
good job
SongsInBeeMinor 11 months ago
Thanks for the video. I'm going to give is a shot. Just one question regarding the U-Joint. Did you use the Traxxas 1951 or Traxxas 5151? You had referrenced WCLATER's design. I checked his sight and he started with the 1951 but then moved to the 5151 later on.
rojoque 1 year ago
@rojoque No problem! I used the Traxxas 1951. At first I used only the male part of the joint... but then as I demoed in later videos I cut off the female ends and fed them over top of the male ends to give it more support where you screw it in at. Also, be sure to check out the video for the trimmable stage add-on... it's a must have add-on and only costs a few dollars more.
DrJoshD 1 year ago
@DrJoshD Thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the Traxxas 5151's and I think I can work with those. Now I am assuming that you have to remove one bearing from one of the traxxas joints and attach the one without a joint bearing to the studs on the other joint with a bearing. My problem is that the removal of the bearing isn't as easy as I thought. How did you go about doing this? I'm assuming a pair of pliers and a screwdriver would do the trick but I fear that I might damage the joint.
rojoque 11 months ago
@rojoque Well to pry open the joint end to slip the metal bearing in it, I used a flat head screw driver that had a wider head than the gap in the joint end. I put the head in the joint end and twisted the screw driver to allow the screw driver head to gently and smoothly push on the joint end to expand it just enough to slip the bearing in it. I originally tried a pair of pliers but it messed up one end, making it too loose. Does that make sense?
DrJoshD 11 months ago
@DrJoshD I was able to create the gimble. I actually went with 2 5" schedule 80 pvc pipes and a threaded T joint for the top bar. I then attached a second a male threaded slip joint to the T-Joint with a skate bearing attached to the U-joint and followed your design for the handle. The challenge that I am running into now is getting the proper balance. I saw your video on the trimmage stage and I plan to make that out of two wood pieces.
rojoque 11 months ago
@rojoque Good deal! Make sure you use light weight wood. The extra weight there will make the rig even heavier (remember you have to counterbalance anything added to the top). Once you have a trimmable stage, get on a bed or something soft and try and balance your camera on one finger. Try and find the center of gravity. Once you do, make a visual note of that spot and attach your trimmable stage. Adjust the stage so that the part that attaches to the rig matches the center of gravity spot.
DrJoshD 11 months ago
@rojoque Also, in terms of finding the proper balance... at first it's really hard and it takes forever... Once you get the right amount of counterweights, it gets a little easier, but it will be a lot of trial and error of moving weights around to get the drop time to be at least 1 second.
DrJoshD 11 months ago
i would be embarassed to use this!
newpowercorp 1 year ago
@newpowercorp You can dress it up with black grip tape, paint it... etc... make it look really nice...
DrJoshD 1 year ago
Lol at the person that hit the dislike button... Why would you dislike a flawless device that is hundreds of dollars cheaper than the actual thing?
DrJoshD 1 year ago
@DrJoshD I dislike the video for not showing it in action.
VCat2006 1 year ago
@VCat2006 I have 3 other videos showing it in action... how about taking back that dislike? lol
DrJoshD 1 year ago
@DrJoshD Alright. Thumbs up for all. :)
VCat2006 1 year ago
@VCat2006 Thanks!
DrJoshD 1 year ago
Great diy but perhaps 8" pipes instead of 10" just to make the design a bit smaller works just as good. Nevertheless, super inexpensive steadicam that works without having to spend a fortune.
Thanks for showing actually showing every single part you used. will make it easier for others to go out and buy them.
defnyung 1 year ago
@defnyung Hey no problem! I thought about the 8" pipes instead, but I chose the longer ones due to not having enough room for a decent handle... I guess if I shortened the u-joint pieces that would fix that problem.
Another reason I made them longer is because I had planned on making an arm and vest, and I thought it may require a little more clearance... Can't wait until I get finished with that... makes filming so much easier.
Did you get to build it yet?
DrJoshD 1 year ago