@Specialized1993 The trained eye can spot it a couple rows over at a gun show, but you can do the "bullet test" and stick a bullet in the muzzle. If it shows some of the bullet, it's not been counterbored. If it swallows the whole bullet to the shoulder of the case, it has been. If it swallows the bullet to the mouth of the case where the bullet is at, then it's probably a worn bore. Or you can look at the muzzle and see it's been drilled.
@MarshalZhukov i have an ex sniper like yours, and the holes have been plugged up and welded over. my stock does NOT have a cut out, is there anyway i can make this a sniper again???
@DEOXYS987 You'll have to cut out the appropriate areas of the stock, and then drill out the welds and re-tap for the mount. Not really an easy way to do it.
@DEOXYS987 Well if you take it to a smith, then they should be able to determine that. But depending on how good the welds are, they could pop out if you tried to punch them from the inside, or everything will have to be re-drilled and re-tapped.
at MarshalZhukov no my moisn is not counter bored. i love the gun for how accurate it is. i might try it for deer season this year. the sights are kinda hard to see but shootin quarter groups at 55 yards. i didnt try farther yet.
@jack16are666 It's a part of the rifling in the bore, near the muzzle that gets drilled out for various reasons. Most likely the crown of the bore was damaged somehow, or else it was worn out and wasn't holding a good group. Since the Finns counterbored so many Finn capture, or Finn manufactured barrels, they probably did it to be preventative. Hope that helps.
Another relatively easy way to tell if a Mosin is an Ex-sniper is to cock the bolt and support the weight of the rifle on the trigger. Standard Mosins have a really heavy trigger (~9lbs) where as snipers had ~5lbs triggers. So, if it takes around half the weight of the rifle to break the trigger it's a sniper, if it takes all of the weight, its a normal rifle.
@Elementlmage I've never heard anything about that before. The ex-snipers are arsenal refurbed anyways, so who knows what was done to any of the triggers on them. Sure, maybe the snipers could have had less of a trigger pull, but I have some very light triggers on non-sniper MNs, and some that are absolutely atrocious.
If it was a true pu 91/30 mosin nagant is will have a turned down bolt. the bolt could have been removed and replaced with a more run of the mill bolt. since they replace the stock
cant thank you enough for showing the bolt open, now i KNOW my nagant was a sniper rifle. mines a hex though, and has a spliced in piece as well. just wasn't sure, even with the stampings. TY TY TY
Another great video. I cant wait to get my 91/30 with hex rec in a few days. I overheard the radio in the background mention AC/DC playing at the Tacoma Dome. Where abouts in WA state are you from? I am from the Wenatchee and Leavenworth area.
@taiwanreef It is rather easy. I did demonstrate one way you could tell, and that's sticking something in the barrel, but that's more of a way to gauge how deep the counterbore is. You can do the "bullet" test. Take a cartridge and stick the bullet in the muzzle. If it swallows the bullet and case to the shoulder, it's counterbored. Typically non-counterbored rifles will show 1/8-1/4 inch of the bullet before the rim of the case. The trained eye can also tell just by looking.
@taiwanreef In addition, if you look in the bore, you will see that the rifling at the muzzle has been basically drilled out of the barrel for a half inch, or an inch or however deep it was thought to be necessary at the time. If you compare a non-counterbored muzzle to a counterbored muzzle, you can see a difference too as the original crown is gone and drilled away. I can spot a counterbore half way across a gun show, but my eyes have seen a great many counterbored Mosins.
@maydayfire This one does not as it is an Izhevsk ex-Sniper. It has the serial number on the left side of the barrel shank just above the stock line that used to match the original scope that was on it when it was in it's sniper configuration.
@aquosman99 You'd need the PU style mount and scope, whether it be repro or original. Then you'd need to drill out the welded in holes and re-tap for reinstallation of the mount and scope.
@MarshalZhukov is tapping hard to do or no because im considering on buying a regular mosin from my local gun shop and turning it into a mosin sniper with the curved bolt and a scope
@aquosman99 I have never tapped one in this fashion, but you will want a drill press, and the correct tap/die for making your holes or if you have to thread any screws/bolts. Use a good punch to get the center of your holes right too. If you are using a PU style mount, you will also have to cut out a portion of the stock so the mount will go in place, and the stock will fit to the rest of the rifle.
i just bought a mosin nagant 91/30 ex sniper and it still got the scope serial number on the side not crossed out. and it got the pre war stock with out the brass things in the holes were the sling goes.
@motko22 Yep, definitely sounds like an ex-sniper then. If you don't have any sling slot escutcheons, then it's in a war time stock. So it is likely then the rifle may be a war time production. Even if it's not a war time rifle, it could still have any type of stock mated to the action and barrel. Numbers not crossed out is cool. Is it counterbored?
no it is not counterbored, it was just recrowned. all numbers are matching stock, bolt, trigger group, reciver, metal butt plate are all matching. i wish i would be able to find the scope for it. the serial number is awsome for the scope. 26669
there are some rough machining marks on the receiver - is there a way to smooth those out a little to make it look better - without loosing the fit in the stock?
The only way to smooth out the machining marks is to remove the roughly machined metal. So you'll need a file, LOTS of sanding time, grinder or a dremel tool with a little sanding paddle wheel. That would probably work the best. It's your rifle, but I'd leave it as it is if it were mine. If you only removed metal on the top, the visible parts and leave what's beneath the stock line, then you won't have to worry about losing any fit in the stock.
How do I know if mine has been counter bored. My barrel is not very shiny on the inside, I almost thought it was pitted, but doesnt ressemble what pitting generally does inside a barrel. When you Disassemble, do the metal bands scratch your stock? Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket synthetic stocks?
Try sticking a bullet in the muzzle. If 1/8th or 1/4 of the bullet sticks out to the case neck, then it hasn't been counterbored. If the bullet gets swallowed to the whole shoulder of the case, then it has been counterbored. You can look in the muzzle and if your bore abruptly stops about an inch or inch and a half before the very end of the muzzle then it has been counterbored. You will be able to tell. If you have bore to the end of the crown, then it's not counterbored.
just got a 1933 91/30, all matching serial no's bolt, bayonet, and rifle... no crossed out stuff, unless has been welded out and remarked. came with all the kit and cleaning gear but was soposidly refurbished, must have been though has been counter bored. but the bolt and rifle is in imacuate condition...cheap as to buy. go figure
Sounds like a good rifle. If there is an arsenal refurb stamp on it, could have been the counterbore that did it. Could be a low spot on the bolt if the numbers were ground off. Or else everything is original to the rifle and just didn't need replaced. Check your parts for arsenal stamps and see if those are all the same arsenal. What arsenal anyways?
Just picked up a 1944 ex izzy sniper Saturday at Gander. They had 6 or 7 91/30's in, and I noticed the serial number on the side of the receiver of one of them (which is usually a scope serial) and sure enough it had the welded in holes for the scope mount. Just mixed in with all the other mosins. I grabbed it right away. It has not been counterbored so I'll have to see how it shoots. (Sooner rather than later hopefully!) Great vid!
I sure like it. Despite being counterbored, this one is a pretty good shooter. Not really surprised either. Be interested in a vid of your own ex-sniper :)
I have a ex pe sniper tula! :) You can see where they mounted the scope on the receiver :) Its counterboared, but has a shinny barrel with deep groves :). Shockingly, it shoots better then my 1943 ex PU izzy, which isn't counter boarded
WOW...i have the same rifle with all the matching serial numbers and one on the left side of the receiver that was scratch across and my stock has a cut out that someone did splice a piece of wood over it. It does have the wielded over holes also.
Looks like you've also got an Izzy ex-sniper. It could be very possible that the stock was repaired and it could very well be it is the original stock as well. What year and is it counterbored? Do you have any pics or a vid on your gun?
Yeah my rear band is pretty snug, the front one isnt as much but it doesnt slide around either. so they do come out then, i didnt know that. you just push from the side that touches the band, or the other side? and i appreciate the info, thanks.
Alright. so the spring part you are talking about bending, thats just the metal that the bands are retained by? or is there something down in there that can be taken out? or you just talking about just bending those up more
Yea, bend them up more to see if it will hold the barrel band better. Are the barrel bands very easy or hard to take off to remove the handguard? You can completely remove the retaining springs from the stock, just use a punch or nail, and drift them out lightly from the opposite side and bend them that way so you don't risk breaking the small round piece that is actually in the stock.
Well if you can't get the springs to bend, then you might have to leave it how it is. It is only going to slide so far before it can't slide any more anyways. If your barrel bands aren't tight, you can try getting some new ones. But if the ends of the barrel bands are close together and not split far apart then they should be doing their job. Or else find a small wedge of some sort and see if any added pressure will hold the handguard. Just try not to create pressure points to affect accuracy.
I have a 1936 m91/30 and this would be my second time taking it out to shoot it, and like last time the hand guard slips a little forward out of place. I always have to stop shooting and put it back in place. I didnt know if you knew what to do or not. And i dont know if this is a common thing with these or not. I just need some help.
I have had this happen to me before. You might want to check to make sure the barrel bands are pretty tight around the barrel, and sitting in the barrel band retaining springs. They are spring steel and will be hard to squeeze tighter without removing them. Or else remove the retaining spring, and bend the spring part of it out, NOT the thin round part that goes in to the stock. A small nail or punch will get it out.
How do you know what all the stamps are? Also, are most of these counterbored? On my m44, I see the rifling going all the way to the end of the barrel. Is is possible it has been counterbored?
Depends really on what you want to use it for. Hunting, I'd recommend the 91/30. Easy to mount a long eye relief scope on. Killing paper, whichever you come across first and get a good deal on. I don't think it matters which one, since you'll end up getting both anyways in the end :D Remember the M44 was sighted from the factory with the bayonet extended. If POI is off from POA and you don't want to extend the bayonet, it is possible to drift the front sight for compensation.
ya i probably wont use it for hunting... but its tough to decide... i like the short barrel and how the bayonet is attached on the M44, but the 91/30 just seems like the classic nagant... ill have to think about it a little more, but like you said ill probably end up with both anyway since they're so cheap haha.
Yep can't go wrong with either. Flip a coin, and I will decide for you. Heads will be M44, and tails will be 91/30. You can always take the bayo off if you don't like it. Don't worry about a counterbore if you get one, thats normal. Good luck, I'd be interested to know your choice. If you have any Big5, Dunhams, or other sporting goods store, check them too. Pawn shops are a good idea. I found my M27 Finn Mosin at a pawn shop.
Just went to the local Big5 stores up here in WA near the Olympia area. They had a total of 3 between the two stores I visited. All Izhevsk 1944 M44 rifles. Bores were definitely shootable. Stocks were in pretty good shape. If they are anything like it was up here, then you ought to get a good deal. Keep an eye out for a 1943 Izhevsk (50,000) or a 1944 Tula (100,000). Two of the rarest M44s. Those are the production numbers of both models.
on that 91/30 about the maybe bad blueing job. yes under the handgurard to. let me know where to send the pics, sending em to iv8888. only other barrel I saw like this was today on gunbroker. Finnish 38. the color of my barrel is the same.
PM me the pics if you have them on photobucket or something of the like. I think you can post the IMG code and it will come up, or post the direct links. Send me a link to the Finn rifle you found on GB too.
I don't know. Pics would help in this situation I think. It sounds like maybe it was a poor blue job? I wonder if maybe it is an old rust blue thats had it, or some chemicals got spilled on it? Did this happen under the handguard?
At 6:04 - I think you Mosin may have a lot more history to it than you realize. On Lapins collector book about Mosins, 4th edition, on page 146, there's a note about Polish sniper rifles having a stamp on the left side of the receiver (just above the stock) that matched to the scope. Since there is no scope with this Mosin, we'll never know this for sure... but Lapins book seems to clearly indicate that this serial # was unique to Polish sniper rifles. Check out his book, you'll see it there!
Checked and duly noted from my own copy, of the very same book!!! :D Yea, I got a little ahead of myself, and have verified from multiple sources that Izzy rifles had the serial stamped there matching the scope, and Tula has the С П stamp by the star, typically the C on the left, and the П right of the star somewhere. And also C H in Cyrillic as well I have seen. I love that book man, its my bible!
Impressive! Isn't it nice to discover the pedigree of a pick-up gun like this? Had the guy selling this known at all, he probably would have charged another 30-40 dollars LOL.
Well, I wonder if Century missed it or something. I don't know as any of the guys knew it was an ex sniper. But thats ok. It is in 91/30 configuration, maybe thats just what the importer imports it as. But it is still an ex, so :D
Be careful about buying a repro mount. The mounts were serialized to each rifle (as you can see with the crossed out number on the left of the receiver) and were unique to each rifle. Other mounts, even if authentic, might not match up. Very nice!
Dr. you never come online. Why is that? I was waiting to tell you, but no. If I could afford a mount, I might buy one and reinstall it. But this baby will stay as it is. I'm glad I stopped off at this place! Lots of 7.62x54R in stock too.
The scope and scope and side mounting PU style mount was removed when the rifle underwent refurbishment. The holes were filled with screws, and then welded in place, and ground down. This is the first ex-sniper I have come across.
How can you tell if the barrel has been counter-bored?
Specialized1993 1 month ago
@Specialized1993 The trained eye can spot it a couple rows over at a gun show, but you can do the "bullet test" and stick a bullet in the muzzle. If it shows some of the bullet, it's not been counterbored. If it swallows the whole bullet to the shoulder of the case, it has been. If it swallows the bullet to the mouth of the case where the bullet is at, then it's probably a worn bore. Or you can look at the muzzle and see it's been drilled.
MarshalZhukov 1 month ago
donde puedo comprar uno este rifle es uno de los mejores
suzukifr100 1 month ago
@suzukifr100 Gonna have to do English or Russian.
MarshalZhukov 1 month ago
@MarshalZhukov i have an ex sniper like yours, and the holes have been plugged up and welded over. my stock does NOT have a cut out, is there anyway i can make this a sniper again???
DEOXYS987 3 months ago
@DEOXYS987 You'll have to cut out the appropriate areas of the stock, and then drill out the welds and re-tap for the mount. Not really an easy way to do it.
MarshalZhukov 3 months ago
@MarshalZhukov the cut out will be easy for a gunsmith, whats the best way of getting rid of the plugged holes?
DEOXYS987 3 months ago
@DEOXYS987 Well if you take it to a smith, then they should be able to determine that. But depending on how good the welds are, they could pop out if you tried to punch them from the inside, or everything will have to be re-drilled and re-tapped.
MarshalZhukov 3 months ago
@MarshalZhukov im getting a PE scope instead, so i dont have to do much work, i just have to drill and tap.
DEOXYS987 3 months ago
Comment removed
DEOXYS987 3 months ago
at MarshalZhukov no my moisn is not counter bored. i love the gun for how accurate it is. i might try it for deer season this year. the sights are kinda hard to see but shootin quarter groups at 55 yards. i didnt try farther yet.
motko22 4 months ago
what is a counter-bore ?
jack16are666 5 months ago
@jack16are666 It's a part of the rifling in the bore, near the muzzle that gets drilled out for various reasons. Most likely the crown of the bore was damaged somehow, or else it was worn out and wasn't holding a good group. Since the Finns counterbored so many Finn capture, or Finn manufactured barrels, they probably did it to be preventative. Hope that helps.
MarshalZhukov 5 months ago
@MarshalZhukov thanks i was wondering i know a lot about guns but i didnt know what that was
jack16are666 5 months ago in playlist Mosin Nagant
Another relatively easy way to tell if a Mosin is an Ex-sniper is to cock the bolt and support the weight of the rifle on the trigger. Standard Mosins have a really heavy trigger (~9lbs) where as snipers had ~5lbs triggers. So, if it takes around half the weight of the rifle to break the trigger it's a sniper, if it takes all of the weight, its a normal rifle.
Elementlmage 6 months ago
@Elementlmage I've never heard anything about that before. The ex-snipers are arsenal refurbed anyways, so who knows what was done to any of the triggers on them. Sure, maybe the snipers could have had less of a trigger pull, but I have some very light triggers on non-sniper MNs, and some that are absolutely atrocious.
MarshalZhukov 6 months ago
kisw. i miss seattle.
seanncali 7 months ago
in soviet russia nagant shoot you.... so in america but you get the joke...
slientmarksman 7 months ago
Настоящая красавица!
Привет из Латвии! :)
redshturman 7 months ago
nice. i got an ex sniper as well. mines from 1943
NXFURY1 1 year ago
If it was a true pu 91/30 mosin nagant is will have a turned down bolt. the bolt could have been removed and replaced with a more run of the mill bolt. since they replace the stock
bigrockslider 1 year ago
cant you remove the plugs (welds)?
JESSEANDISAACSHOW 1 year ago
cant thank you enough for showing the bolt open, now i KNOW my nagant was a sniper rifle. mines a hex though, and has a spliced in piece as well. just wasn't sure, even with the stampings. TY TY TY
demotheemos 1 year ago
what's that song's name? the first one in russian...
Supertomiman 1 year ago
Another great video. I cant wait to get my 91/30 with hex rec in a few days. I overheard the radio in the background mention AC/DC playing at the Tacoma Dome. Where abouts in WA state are you from? I am from the Wenatchee and Leavenworth area.
76Stankfinger 1 year ago
@76Stankfinger That was a long time ago!
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov Oh, so you're no longer living in WA state then? I live in Las Vegas now buy I am originally from that area.
76Stankfinger 1 year ago
Great background tunes.
JimSkold 1 year ago
how do you tell if it's counterbored?
taiwanreef 1 year ago
@taiwanreef It is rather easy. I did demonstrate one way you could tell, and that's sticking something in the barrel, but that's more of a way to gauge how deep the counterbore is. You can do the "bullet" test. Take a cartridge and stick the bullet in the muzzle. If it swallows the bullet and case to the shoulder, it's counterbored. Typically non-counterbored rifles will show 1/8-1/4 inch of the bullet before the rim of the case. The trained eye can also tell just by looking.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@taiwanreef In addition, if you look in the bore, you will see that the rifling at the muzzle has been basically drilled out of the barrel for a half inch, or an inch or however deep it was thought to be necessary at the time. If you compare a non-counterbored muzzle to a counterbored muzzle, you can see a difference too as the original crown is gone and drilled away. I can spot a counterbore half way across a gun show, but my eyes have seen a great many counterbored Mosins.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
does it have the C H on the barrel to mark an ex-sniper version?
maydayfire 1 year ago
@maydayfire This one does not as it is an Izhevsk ex-Sniper. It has the serial number on the left side of the barrel shank just above the stock line that used to match the original scope that was on it when it was in it's sniper configuration.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
can you turn an ex sniper back into a sniper
aquosman99 1 year ago
@aquosman99 You'd need the PU style mount and scope, whether it be repro or original. Then you'd need to drill out the welded in holes and re-tap for reinstallation of the mount and scope.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov is tapping hard to do or no because im considering on buying a regular mosin from my local gun shop and turning it into a mosin sniper with the curved bolt and a scope
aquosman99 1 year ago
@aquosman99 I have never tapped one in this fashion, but you will want a drill press, and the correct tap/die for making your holes or if you have to thread any screws/bolts. Use a good punch to get the center of your holes right too. If you are using a PU style mount, you will also have to cut out a portion of the stock so the mount will go in place, and the stock will fit to the rest of the rifle.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov do they make repo sniper stocks
aquosman99 1 year ago
@aquosman99 I have never seen one before. Looks like you'd have to make your own.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
thanks for the information on tapping a scope onto a mosin and thank you for the information in general.
aquosman99 1 year ago
Great music :)
sadnessinside123 1 year ago
i just bought a mosin nagant 91/30 ex sniper and it still got the scope serial number on the side not crossed out. and it got the pre war stock with out the brass things in the holes were the sling goes.
motko22 1 year ago
@motko22 Yep, definitely sounds like an ex-sniper then. If you don't have any sling slot escutcheons, then it's in a war time stock. So it is likely then the rifle may be a war time production. Even if it's not a war time rifle, it could still have any type of stock mated to the action and barrel. Numbers not crossed out is cool. Is it counterbored?
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
no it is not counterbored, it was just recrowned. all numbers are matching stock, bolt, trigger group, reciver, metal butt plate are all matching. i wish i would be able to find the scope for it. the serial number is awsome for the scope. 26669
motko22 1 year ago
there are some rough machining marks on the receiver - is there a way to smooth those out a little to make it look better - without loosing the fit in the stock?
ealnav 2 years ago
The only way to smooth out the machining marks is to remove the roughly machined metal. So you'll need a file, LOTS of sanding time, grinder or a dremel tool with a little sanding paddle wheel. That would probably work the best. It's your rifle, but I'd leave it as it is if it were mine. If you only removed metal on the top, the visible parts and leave what's beneath the stock line, then you won't have to worry about losing any fit in the stock.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
How do I know if mine has been counter bored. My barrel is not very shiny on the inside, I almost thought it was pitted, but doesnt ressemble what pitting generally does inside a barrel. When you Disassemble, do the metal bands scratch your stock? Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket synthetic stocks?
laxguy59 2 years ago
Try sticking a bullet in the muzzle. If 1/8th or 1/4 of the bullet sticks out to the case neck, then it hasn't been counterbored. If the bullet gets swallowed to the whole shoulder of the case, then it has been counterbored. You can look in the muzzle and if your bore abruptly stops about an inch or inch and a half before the very end of the muzzle then it has been counterbored. You will be able to tell. If you have bore to the end of the crown, then it's not counterbored.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
just got a 1933 91/30, all matching serial no's bolt, bayonet, and rifle... no crossed out stuff, unless has been welded out and remarked. came with all the kit and cleaning gear but was soposidly refurbished, must have been though has been counter bored. but the bolt and rifle is in imacuate condition...cheap as to buy. go figure
kiwimaudib 2 years ago
Sounds like a good rifle. If there is an arsenal refurb stamp on it, could have been the counterbore that did it. Could be a low spot on the bolt if the numbers were ground off. Or else everything is original to the rifle and just didn't need replaced. Check your parts for arsenal stamps and see if those are all the same arsenal. What arsenal anyways?
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Just picked up a 1944 ex izzy sniper Saturday at Gander. They had 6 or 7 91/30's in, and I noticed the serial number on the side of the receiver of one of them (which is usually a scope serial) and sure enough it had the welded in holes for the scope mount. Just mixed in with all the other mosins. I grabbed it right away. It has not been counterbored so I'll have to see how it shoots. (Sooner rather than later hopefully!) Great vid!
SaintPatrick33 2 years ago
I sure like it. Despite being counterbored, this one is a pretty good shooter. Not really surprised either. Be interested in a vid of your own ex-sniper :)
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
I have a ex pe sniper tula! :) You can see where they mounted the scope on the receiver :) Its counterboared, but has a shinny barrel with deep groves :). Shockingly, it shoots better then my 1943 ex PU izzy, which isn't counter boarded
mahnameiswin 2 years ago
they did a really shitty job welding those holes up. great video!
TokinTom666 2 years ago
lol yea they did. It still shoots pretty damn well, so I guess looks aren't everything :D
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
WOW...i have the same rifle with all the matching serial numbers and one on the left side of the receiver that was scratch across and my stock has a cut out that someone did splice a piece of wood over it. It does have the wielded over holes also.
VAND4LL 2 years ago
Looks like you've also got an Izzy ex-sniper. It could be very possible that the stock was repaired and it could very well be it is the original stock as well. What year and is it counterbored? Do you have any pics or a vid on your gun?
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Its stamp 1944, and its not counterbored
VAND4LL 2 years ago
Yeah my rear band is pretty snug, the front one isnt as much but it doesnt slide around either. so they do come out then, i didnt know that. you just push from the side that touches the band, or the other side? and i appreciate the info, thanks.
stekrirade 2 years ago
Alright. so the spring part you are talking about bending, thats just the metal that the bands are retained by? or is there something down in there that can be taken out? or you just talking about just bending those up more
stekrirade 2 years ago
Yea, bend them up more to see if it will hold the barrel band better. Are the barrel bands very easy or hard to take off to remove the handguard? You can completely remove the retaining springs from the stock, just use a punch or nail, and drift them out lightly from the opposite side and bend them that way so you don't risk breaking the small round piece that is actually in the stock.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
i guess im not getting what you are saying.
stekrirade 2 years ago
Well if you can't get the springs to bend, then you might have to leave it how it is. It is only going to slide so far before it can't slide any more anyways. If your barrel bands aren't tight, you can try getting some new ones. But if the ends of the barrel bands are close together and not split far apart then they should be doing their job. Or else find a small wedge of some sort and see if any added pressure will hold the handguard. Just try not to create pressure points to affect accuracy.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
I have a 1936 m91/30 and this would be my second time taking it out to shoot it, and like last time the hand guard slips a little forward out of place. I always have to stop shooting and put it back in place. I didnt know if you knew what to do or not. And i dont know if this is a common thing with these or not. I just need some help.
stekrirade 2 years ago
I have had this happen to me before. You might want to check to make sure the barrel bands are pretty tight around the barrel, and sitting in the barrel band retaining springs. They are spring steel and will be hard to squeeze tighter without removing them. Or else remove the retaining spring, and bend the spring part of it out, NOT the thin round part that goes in to the stock. A small nail or punch will get it out.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
so im going to bend the retaining spring so that the band will be harder to move forward
stekrirade 2 years ago
How do you know what all the stamps are? Also, are most of these counterbored? On my m44, I see the rifling going all the way to the end of the barrel. Is is possible it has been counterbored?
joshhh100001 2 years ago
wich would you recommend, the 91/30 or the M44?
1cme1 2 years ago
Depends really on what you want to use it for. Hunting, I'd recommend the 91/30. Easy to mount a long eye relief scope on. Killing paper, whichever you come across first and get a good deal on. I don't think it matters which one, since you'll end up getting both anyways in the end :D Remember the M44 was sighted from the factory with the bayonet extended. If POI is off from POA and you don't want to extend the bayonet, it is possible to drift the front sight for compensation.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
ya i probably wont use it for hunting... but its tough to decide... i like the short barrel and how the bayonet is attached on the M44, but the 91/30 just seems like the classic nagant... ill have to think about it a little more, but like you said ill probably end up with both anyway since they're so cheap haha.
1cme1 2 years ago
Yep can't go wrong with either. Flip a coin, and I will decide for you. Heads will be M44, and tails will be 91/30. You can always take the bayo off if you don't like it. Don't worry about a counterbore if you get one, thats normal. Good luck, I'd be interested to know your choice. If you have any Big5, Dunhams, or other sporting goods store, check them too. Pawn shops are a good idea. I found my M27 Finn Mosin at a pawn shop.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
haha, M44 it is.
ya big 5 always has a ton of them.
1cme1 2 years ago
Just went to the local Big5 stores up here in WA near the Olympia area. They had a total of 3 between the two stores I visited. All Izhevsk 1944 M44 rifles. Bores were definitely shootable. Stocks were in pretty good shape. If they are anything like it was up here, then you ought to get a good deal. Keep an eye out for a 1943 Izhevsk (50,000) or a 1944 Tula (100,000). Two of the rarest M44s. Those are the production numbers of both models.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
on that 91/30 about the maybe bad blueing job. yes under the handgurard to. let me know where to send the pics, sending em to iv8888. only other barrel I saw like this was today on gunbroker. Finnish 38. the color of my barrel is the same.
moonpie129 2 years ago
PM me the pics if you have them on photobucket or something of the like. I think you can post the IMG code and it will come up, or post the direct links. Send me a link to the Finn rifle you found on GB too.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
have a barrel like that from the screw on till the last 4 inches where it is blued. So what kinda blueing looks copper or zinc?
moonpie129 2 years ago
I don't know. Pics would help in this situation I think. It sounds like maybe it was a poor blue job? I wonder if maybe it is an old rust blue thats had it, or some chemicals got spilled on it? Did this happen under the handguard?
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Excellent video MZ and wonderful score!
Enjoyed the music as well to go with!
5*
rugersix 2 years ago
At 6:04 - I think you Mosin may have a lot more history to it than you realize. On Lapins collector book about Mosins, 4th edition, on page 146, there's a note about Polish sniper rifles having a stamp on the left side of the receiver (just above the stock) that matched to the scope. Since there is no scope with this Mosin, we'll never know this for sure... but Lapins book seems to clearly indicate that this serial # was unique to Polish sniper rifles. Check out his book, you'll see it there!
21stcenturyfilmdocs 2 years ago
Checked and duly noted from my own copy, of the very same book!!! :D Yea, I got a little ahead of myself, and have verified from multiple sources that Izzy rifles had the serial stamped there matching the scope, and Tula has the С П stamp by the star, typically the C on the left, and the П right of the star somewhere. And also C H in Cyrillic as well I have seen. I love that book man, its my bible!
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Impressive! Isn't it nice to discover the pedigree of a pick-up gun like this? Had the guy selling this known at all, he probably would have charged another 30-40 dollars LOL.
Who's laugh now?
21stcenturyfilmdocs 2 years ago
Well, I wonder if Century missed it or something. I don't know as any of the guys knew it was an ex sniper. But thats ok. It is in 91/30 configuration, maybe thats just what the importer imports it as. But it is still an ex, so :D
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Be careful about buying a repro mount. The mounts were serialized to each rifle (as you can see with the crossed out number on the left of the receiver) and were unique to each rifle. Other mounts, even if authentic, might not match up. Very nice!
TheOtherVenkman 2 years ago
Dr. you never come online. Why is that? I was waiting to tell you, but no. If I could afford a mount, I might buy one and reinstall it. But this baby will stay as it is. I'm glad I stopped off at this place! Lots of 7.62x54R in stock too.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
excellent video man.
thefinalgamer 2 years ago
great vid,,5 stars.
bearwhy 2 years ago
Awesome man!
deloreandmc88 2 years ago
How do you get the damned telescopic sight mount off the top of the receiver?
kiwitedferny 2 years ago
The scope and scope and side mounting PU style mount was removed when the rifle underwent refurbishment. The holes were filled with screws, and then welded in place, and ground down. This is the first ex-sniper I have come across.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago