As for the test being flawed. Radiant heat does come into the insulation similar to the way the demo is set up. Once ur roof heats up it then RADIATES just like the Heat lamp.. Don't believe it.. go into the attic in the heat of the day and put up a piece of the foil over your head between your face and the roof and u will feel it block the heat. You don't yet understand how heat moves so the demo is unclear to you . watch the movies a few more times.
There are other factors that were not taken into account .. Heat flow in the walls, improper installation , no air flow out of attic when air heats up . The idea is to have your AC system or heat system work less often. I installed this on my neighbors house and we noticed that the furnace didnt come on at night till almost morning and that the house was still warm at 1AM when its usually cold.
I have used this on my second floor renovation and it dropped the temp very nicely.. check ur instal
Insulation can only do so much. I have nearly 3 feet of insulation in my attic and my house would get up to 90 degrees in hot weather. I added a considerable amount of attic ventilation and it helped dramatically. I have radiant barrier and if I ever decide to not be lazy I will staple it up. I'm hoping it will result in less stress on my A/C system in the attic and the air tubes. right now the first thing I get is a blast of hot air when turning on the A/C, so I know things can be better
Pink I have done a lot of research on this product, haven't purchased yet, and 1 distributor did say that it works better on a 1 story house than 2 because of heating in from the sides. I can do my house DIY for $200 vs. $400 for blown cellulose add/upgrade so I am going to try it out.
I never said it is not a good product, in fact I have it in my attic. These tests are flawed, and they give radiant barrier a bad name. You shouldn't use radiant barrier as an alternate for regular insulation though. You should have about 12 inches of insulation on the attic floor, and staple the radiant barrier to the rafters.
It's funny how 3" of white insulation and a couple of fry lamps, scam so many people. R-30 (modern code) is 10"-11" of fiberglass. There is shingles/tiles, tar paper, and ply-wood between the sun and your insulation. The best R-value equivilant I have found is R-7 for radiant barrior, and that is from the trade group representing the barrior manufacturers. R-30 cost about 45 cents a sq. ft. Adding insulation is a far more practical and proven method. Don't be fooled by this demonstration.
@What is so interesting is how u have been dubbed to the extend you are almost retarded Fiberglass merely slows done heat transfer. what do you think the R is for .. it means RESISTANCE R-30 only gives you 30 of slowing down the heat penetration .. It is more for reducing air flow like down . The Demo is just that a DEMONSTRATION of the properties.. of how heat is reflected ... the only diff putting in R-30 insulation in the demo box would be it takes a lot longer to show the point.. duh
You sir are clueless .. R mean RESISTANCE Foil Reflects.. IF they used R-30 the results would be EXACTLY the same.. just take a lot longer to make the point.. Dupont and John Mansville have done a great job of fooling the heck out of you ..if you had only one to use .. Use foil.. but both addresses the different properties of heat. Radiant heat is the larger portion of heat till it hits something then its conducted and convected by air. R anything only reduces air flow and slows transfer.
You sir are clueless .. R mean RESISTANCE Foil Reflects.. IF they used R-30 the results would be EXACTLY the same.. just take a lot longer to make the point.. Du Pont and John Mansville have done a great job of fooling the heck out of you ..if you had only one to use .. Use foil.. but both addresses the different properties of heat. Radiant heat is the larger portion of heat till it hits something then its conducted and convected by air. R anything only reduces air flow and slows transfer.
To be honest with you, I have not been pleased with Eagle Shield's product. They advertise at great extent how the utility bill will go down and once their product is installed it is less wear and tear on the A/C and heating units.
My utility bill as compared to last year for the same months was much less than this year so I have seen NO SAVINGS.
To be honest with you, I have not been pleased with Eagle Shield's product. They advertise at great extent how the utility bill will go down and once their product is installed it is less wear and tear on the A/C and heating units.
My utility bill as compared to last year for the same months was much less than this year so I have seen NO SAVINGS.
common dude really?? does the sun shine directly on the insulation? This test should be done with roof sheathing, shingles, typical ventilation % of an avg attic, avg blown in r-20-30, sheetrok ceiling with probe on bottom, at least try to make it REAL WORLD. oh yeah, and the foil is usually installed directly under the rafters.
As for the test being flawed. Radiant heat does come into the insulation similar to the way the demo is set up. Once ur roof heats up it then RADIATES just like the Heat lamp.. Don't believe it.. go into the attic in the heat of the day and put up a piece of the foil over your head between your face and the roof and u will feel it block the heat. You don't yet understand how heat moves so the demo is unclear to you . watch the movies a few more times.
alfriedar 1 year ago
There are other factors that were not taken into account .. Heat flow in the walls, improper installation , no air flow out of attic when air heats up . The idea is to have your AC system or heat system work less often. I installed this on my neighbors house and we noticed that the furnace didnt come on at night till almost morning and that the house was still warm at 1AM when its usually cold.
I have used this on my second floor renovation and it dropped the temp very nicely.. check ur instal
alfriedar 1 year ago
Insulation can only do so much. I have nearly 3 feet of insulation in my attic and my house would get up to 90 degrees in hot weather. I added a considerable amount of attic ventilation and it helped dramatically. I have radiant barrier and if I ever decide to not be lazy I will staple it up. I'm hoping it will result in less stress on my A/C system in the attic and the air tubes. right now the first thing I get is a blast of hot air when turning on the A/C, so I know things can be better
monkeyman1140 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I just posted your video on VacationValet channel in my playlist for "Re-Newable Energy, getting started" Check it out when you can. Thank you.
VacationValet 1 year ago
I agree with you.
GJN311 1 year ago
Someone needs to do an actual test in a house, not a box with a heat lamp. The sun does not come in your attic that way
pinkyzoey 1 year ago
@pinkyzoey You got that right!
griede 1 year ago
@pinkyzoey
Pink I have done a lot of research on this product, haven't purchased yet, and 1 distributor did say that it works better on a 1 story house than 2 because of heating in from the sides. I can do my house DIY for $200 vs. $400 for blown cellulose add/upgrade so I am going to try it out.
danielsaun1 1 year ago
@danielsaun1
I never said it is not a good product, in fact I have it in my attic. These tests are flawed, and they give radiant barrier a bad name. You shouldn't use radiant barrier as an alternate for regular insulation though. You should have about 12 inches of insulation on the attic floor, and staple the radiant barrier to the rafters.
pinkyzoey 1 year ago
Inaccurate Test! As said before, the Sun does not shine directly on the insulation. In an accurate test the heat lamps shouldn't either.
4degreeslower 1 year ago
It's funny how 3" of white insulation and a couple of fry lamps, scam so many people. R-30 (modern code) is 10"-11" of fiberglass. There is shingles/tiles, tar paper, and ply-wood between the sun and your insulation. The best R-value equivilant I have found is R-7 for radiant barrior, and that is from the trade group representing the barrior manufacturers. R-30 cost about 45 cents a sq. ft. Adding insulation is a far more practical and proven method. Don't be fooled by this demonstration.
flippinus 1 year ago
@What is so interesting is how u have been dubbed to the extend you are almost retarded Fiberglass merely slows done heat transfer. what do you think the R is for .. it means RESISTANCE R-30 only gives you 30 of slowing down the heat penetration .. It is more for reducing air flow like down . The Demo is just that a DEMONSTRATION of the properties.. of how heat is reflected ... the only diff putting in R-30 insulation in the demo box would be it takes a lot longer to show the point.. duh
alfriedar 1 year ago
You sir are clueless .. R mean RESISTANCE Foil Reflects.. IF they used R-30 the results would be EXACTLY the same.. just take a lot longer to make the point.. Dupont and John Mansville have done a great job of fooling the heck out of you ..if you had only one to use .. Use foil.. but both addresses the different properties of heat. Radiant heat is the larger portion of heat till it hits something then its conducted and convected by air. R anything only reduces air flow and slows transfer.
alfriedar 1 year ago
You sir are clueless .. R mean RESISTANCE Foil Reflects.. IF they used R-30 the results would be EXACTLY the same.. just take a lot longer to make the point.. Du Pont and John Mansville have done a great job of fooling the heck out of you ..if you had only one to use .. Use foil.. but both addresses the different properties of heat. Radiant heat is the larger portion of heat till it hits something then its conducted and convected by air. R anything only reduces air flow and slows transfer.
alfriedar 1 year ago
To be honest with you, I have not been pleased with Eagle Shield's product. They advertise at great extent how the utility bill will go down and once their product is installed it is less wear and tear on the A/C and heating units.
My utility bill as compared to last year for the same months was much less than this year so I have seen NO SAVINGS.
If I had it to do again...I wouldn't!
griede 2 years ago
To be honest with you, I have not been pleased with Eagle Shield's product. They advertise at great extent how the utility bill will go down and once their product is installed it is less wear and tear on the A/C and heating units.
My utility bill as compared to last year for the same months was much less than this year so I have seen NO SAVINGS.
If I had it to do again...I wouldn't!
griede 2 years ago
What is the heat source in the video?
I would like to see your results in the attic.
Ditto on a more environmentally sound product than aluminum.
johnlvs2run 2 years ago
common dude really?? does the sun shine directly on the insulation? This test should be done with roof sheathing, shingles, typical ventilation % of an avg attic, avg blown in r-20-30, sheetrok ceiling with probe on bottom, at least try to make it REAL WORLD. oh yeah, and the foil is usually installed directly under the rafters.
d1incharge 2 years ago
Which barrier products work the best and the least home environmental concerns? The use of aluminum has been used synonmously with Alzheimer.
Jazzeerun 2 years ago
@Jazzeerun
You should worry more about aluminum frypans cooking foil and aluminum in deodorant than some foil in your attic.
monkeyman1140 1 year ago