Instead of building in the air and nailing the 2x4's to follow the barrel, you could of built them on the ground by sandwiching 2x4 scrap blocks between two gussets following the bottom edge, creating a 1 1/2" opening at the top of the gusset.
Then with the top of the gusset open, slip it over the rafter and nail.
What it's saves on aggravation, time & using scrap 2x4's defiantly offsets the extra cost of plywood. You could also use larger ply scrap and piece together if needed.
@bruno2260 hmm, never did it that way. didn't think our way was that hard actually-versus trying to hoist a completed barrel up there and have it all plane out with the bottom of the ceiling.
as we all know, there's many ways to put this stuff together
At 1:20 it clearly shows that your last sleep valley rafter's heel cut exceeds the sleeper 2x10 valley. It is critical that you understand that you could have used a 2x6 rafter because in reality that is all the strength you have in those rafters. The span and weight distribution factor is small at that point and it would look more apropriate so that the heel doesn't hang over as far. So next time out you should consider it.. Have fun on your next project.
I'll consider it, and the next time you're framing a layover and you get to that spot and you realize you don't have any 2x6, feel free to use a 2x10. It'll only be doing the work of a 2x6, but you can probably have the roof finished and sheathed in the time it would even take you to get to the lumberyard. Thanks for your help.
wowk, nice 2x10s on 16" centers LOL and then about 3" tall of the 2x10 sit on the valley! LOL, dude if you do instructional videos, know wht the fck you are doing first.
please dude, school me- how do you you handle the last rafters when you're doing a layover. and don't tell me you chop out the all the rafters and put in a true valley.
or maybe use 2x6 rafters that sit completely on the false valley, and not waste 2x10s on a 3 foot long rafter, in which just the tip of the end sits on the valley. Not to mention 2' centers is normal for roof rafters.
our roof package was 2x10, we weren't about to downsize the rafters to avoid overhang, would you order new smaller lumber if you already had bigger stuff that would work?
also, every crew if framed with sticks frames roofs at 16 oc because we like them to land over our studs which are 16 oc. granted in there are no studs to fall over in this application, but old habits die hard.
it's been a while, you're right, I think we put them every 3rd rafter, but layout didn't start at the exterior wall because the dormer extended out another 3 feet past for an overhang
so for the extra 2 minutes it took to actually measure each one instead of doing all that extra math, I'd rather just be safe and sure
i might have missed something but it didnt look like you put a plywood hanger every 16" looks like 4 ft so that makes figuring the steps pretty easy. luckly it didnt get into the radius or did it
not bad for a home owner. gets done every day in no time on the job. the steps in those plywood hangers should've just been the pitch of the shed roof no need to measure every time.not rippin ya just adding
I appreciate your input. But how would I have figured out how long to make the legs of the barrel if I didn't measure down. I guess I could have figured out the rise over 16 inches and just deducted that from the previous gusset, but at that point it just seemed more accurate to take an actual measurement, no?
Great job Ive had to do that before and did it the same way except it was for a roof , they put a copper tin over it I had to flex quarter inch plywood over it and double sheethed it for strength,looked cool afterwords,ps check out my new tool.
Instead of building in the air and nailing the 2x4's to follow the barrel, you could of built them on the ground by sandwiching 2x4 scrap blocks between two gussets following the bottom edge, creating a 1 1/2" opening at the top of the gusset.
Then with the top of the gusset open, slip it over the rafter and nail.
What it's saves on aggravation, time & using scrap 2x4's defiantly offsets the extra cost of plywood. You could also use larger ply scrap and piece together if needed.
bruno2260 1 year ago
@bruno2260 hmm, never did it that way. didn't think our way was that hard actually-versus trying to hoist a completed barrel up there and have it all plane out with the bottom of the ceiling.
as we all know, there's many ways to put this stuff together
crsmal 1 year ago
Boy! I miss framing - Put me to work would ya!
RemoteMowerCom 2 years ago
At 1:20 it clearly shows that your last sleep valley rafter's heel cut exceeds the sleeper 2x10 valley. It is critical that you understand that you could have used a 2x6 rafter because in reality that is all the strength you have in those rafters. The span and weight distribution factor is small at that point and it would look more apropriate so that the heel doesn't hang over as far. So next time out you should consider it.. Have fun on your next project.
embitteredshurpa 2 years ago
I'll consider it, and the next time you're framing a layover and you get to that spot and you realize you don't have any 2x6, feel free to use a 2x10. It'll only be doing the work of a 2x6, but you can probably have the roof finished and sheathed in the time it would even take you to get to the lumberyard. Thanks for your help.
crsmal 2 years ago
wowk, nice 2x10s on 16" centers LOL and then about 3" tall of the 2x10 sit on the valley! LOL, dude if you do instructional videos, know wht the fck you are doing first.
d1incharge 2 years ago
please dude, school me- how do you you handle the last rafters when you're doing a layover. and don't tell me you chop out the all the rafters and put in a true valley.
crsmal 2 years ago
or maybe use 2x6 rafters that sit completely on the false valley, and not waste 2x10s on a 3 foot long rafter, in which just the tip of the end sits on the valley. Not to mention 2' centers is normal for roof rafters.
d1incharge 2 years ago
our roof package was 2x10, we weren't about to downsize the rafters to avoid overhang, would you order new smaller lumber if you already had bigger stuff that would work?
also, every crew if framed with sticks frames roofs at 16 oc because we like them to land over our studs which are 16 oc. granted in there are no studs to fall over in this application, but old habits die hard.
barkin' up the wrong tree hombre
crsmal 2 years ago
I like that your NOT LAZY
MimosaFun 3 years ago
it's been a while, you're right, I think we put them every 3rd rafter, but layout didn't start at the exterior wall because the dormer extended out another 3 feet past for an overhang
so for the extra 2 minutes it took to actually measure each one instead of doing all that extra math, I'd rather just be safe and sure
And yes, it did get into the radius
crsmal 3 years ago
i might have missed something but it didnt look like you put a plywood hanger every 16" looks like 4 ft so that makes figuring the steps pretty easy. luckly it didnt get into the radius or did it
NonRider 3 years ago
not bad for a home owner. gets done every day in no time on the job. the steps in those plywood hangers should've just been the pitch of the shed roof no need to measure every time.not rippin ya just adding
NonRider 3 years ago
I appreciate your input. But how would I have figured out how long to make the legs of the barrel if I didn't measure down. I guess I could have figured out the rise over 16 inches and just deducted that from the previous gusset, but at that point it just seemed more accurate to take an actual measurement, no?
crsmal 3 years ago
Great job Ive had to do that before and did it the same way except it was for a roof , they put a copper tin over it I had to flex quarter inch plywood over it and double sheethed it for strength,looked cool afterwords,ps check out my new tool.
vlinedude 4 years ago
Don't be nieve he didnt do it. Someone like me grunted it out!
losoj30 4 years ago
Hhahahahahahaahaha yea, who held the camera? Oh, it's spelled NAIVE.
trsloane 4 years ago