Yeah- the plastic on that PVC container forms at about 185 degrees. The stainless threaded rods are like resistors and will heat up to over 200 degrees, causing a melting to happen around them. The slightest gap can cause a spark and boom!
good info in your video, but i would like to know who painted your car? OMG, you said that the porsche was your race car, you need to color sand and buff your paint out somehing horrible. It looks like a red orange. you probobly cant get going very fast in it due to the air resistance of your orange peel. I hope you didnt pay someone to paint it. and if you did, i hope you got reach around witth that ass fucking they gave you. any way thanx for the info.
get ur fuckin tools off that porshe u only care about ur gay ass project just like the people with their saws making sawdust on my car or the leaf blower people people blowing sticks and rocks on the sides
@rubicon31 - I think a dry cell is the way to go. That is actually what I am running now. A dry cell runs cooler and you don't have electrical connections inside a pocket of gas. If properly designed a dry cell puts out more gas for the amps drawn.
From all the videos ive seen no one seems to add a relife valve why is that your working with hydrogen its a expanding gas also a pressure detector switch that shuts the power off, experiments work if done in a safe manner, Be safe and live another day.
I have been making hho and hydrogen for over 20 years now. There is no need for neutral plates. And unless your electrolyte is very week your plates are too close. Also it looks like u are using copper inside your cell. Only stainless please. I energize from the bottom of the cell. 0% chance of explosion
Are you running an inline fuse and a relay to power the system ? I'm hearing to use a 20 amp fuse . My understanding also is that the greater the surface area of the plates the more currrent it draws . As docscott says , you were probably drawing too much current where that nut melted into the plastic . Thanks for posting your results
Thank you to everyone that has commented. At the time of the explosion I was testing and using jumper cables. Not very smart! Now I have a 30amp fuse, a relay and a PWM for full control. I have more neutral plates. I have the electrolyte mix to where it is stable when warm with the PWM on full. On hot days I have to tweak the PWM . I also added a small fan to cool the PWM. The tube has a spark arrestor with a one way valve and a bubbler that can blow apart easily. All connections are tight
Hi, you are quite correct to use a rubber washer, as a tapped thread, in to a thin plate wont get enough threads cut to allow sea, even if tapped i would still use washer, and cut the washer in side DIA, hole to be half a MM, smaer than the bolt, so when tightened the seal is so much more secure....
hey, got a question for ya. if i use just a bubbler on the hho fuel cell, am i still in danger of blowing up the generator?, or will the bubbler be the only thing to go???
also, is fuel injection safer than carbeurated engines as far as backfires go? i have a 95 ford explorer.
The bubbler properly installed will prevent the cell from damage. The bubbler should have a top or valve that easily pops off during an explosion. Then you will have a loud noise but no damage. A one way spark arrestor will protect the bubbler and is a must have devise to ensure safety. A backfire is rare on a vehicle in good shape but can happen with fuel injection or carb.
Yes it is orange peeled bad. The guy that painted it claimed to paint cars for a living. I could have done it better myself. He says that he can wet sand it and buff it.
I learned long ago that "professional" means you get paid, not that you necessarily have a clue what you're doing. I hope you've gotten some satisfaction from the guy.
i had the same thing happen to me a couple time's and i contribute it to my electrolite becoming too conductive wich in return caused my elctrode and cathode to draw to many amps wich of course got hot and melted my tank. shorted out in otherwords. I think that metal or glass tanks are the way to go,less static aswhell when properly grounded. Be careful and thanks for sharing your experienc.
Docscot11, I wouldn't use glass, if it explodes like my plastic tank did, you'll have glass shards flying at you, blowout valves are good to have as well.
Install a Pulse Width Modulator to control your amperage (see Ebay) along with a simple Amp meter. It will control the heat problem with a simple setting.
This is not a result of your design with the cap. This is caused by thermal runnaway.Your cell designs looks to be running to hot. Nuetral plats will aid in this issue. Look into keeping your water cool anything more than 2.0v per plate gap creates heat. Have you thought about filling your cell and having the thermal movement of the water through a cooler help with heat issues? Just some suggestions.
That's interesting man, I would think that the main cause of the explosion or overheating is the plate + and - touching each other. Just make sure that only + touch the + and the - touch the negative. I had a bad experience too so I have learned from that mistake. Take care.
Hi there I see you have had a bit of tubble have a look at my build for some idears look at "HHO Tank Ready To Go" I show a good way to mount the termanals to the lid very simple no glue was used just a No 9. O ring and a washer on the inside and a washer on the outside with nuts as for the heat you need more Neutral plates maby try +_ _ _ _ _- or if you wanna go bigger +_ _ _ _ _ - _ _ _ _ _ + and so on Good luck :-)
Nice paint job on the red car! What type of roller did you use :D
Good luck with the HHO i'm going to try a dry cell, looks like a good design.
izzzzzz6 4 months ago
Yeah- the plastic on that PVC container forms at about 185 degrees. The stainless threaded rods are like resistors and will heat up to over 200 degrees, causing a melting to happen around them. The slightest gap can cause a spark and boom!
Glad you weren't hurt.
HybridWaterMan2 1 year ago
good info in your video, but i would like to know who painted your car? OMG, you said that the porsche was your race car, you need to color sand and buff your paint out somehing horrible. It looks like a red orange. you probobly cant get going very fast in it due to the air resistance of your orange peel. I hope you didnt pay someone to paint it. and if you did, i hope you got reach around witth that ass fucking they gave you. any way thanx for the info.
68thanatos 1 year ago
get ur fuckin tools off that porshe u only care about ur gay ass project just like the people with their saws making sawdust on my car or the leaf blower people people blowing sticks and rocks on the sides
paintslinger2009 1 year ago
What an Amazingly bad spray job on that poor Porsche. Love the Orage Peel.
moviejacker 1 year ago
What an Amazingly bad spray job on that poor Porsche.
moviejacker 1 year ago
how about a dry cell
rubicon31 1 year ago
@rubicon31 - I think a dry cell is the way to go. That is actually what I am running now. A dry cell runs cooler and you don't have electrical connections inside a pocket of gas. If properly designed a dry cell puts out more gas for the amps drawn.
SteveF944 1 year ago
From all the videos ive seen no one seems to add a relife valve why is that your working with hydrogen its a expanding gas also a pressure detector switch that shuts the power off, experiments work if done in a safe manner, Be safe and live another day.
Zanzamor 1 year ago
Its the plastics being used. You need stronger grade stuff. Machined aluminum for starters, then higher temperature threshold materials.
Pyroscopy 1 year ago
I have been making hho and hydrogen for over 20 years now. There is no need for neutral plates. And unless your electrolyte is very week your plates are too close. Also it looks like u are using copper inside your cell. Only stainless please. I energize from the bottom of the cell. 0% chance of explosion
TheSolarmike 1 year ago
Really exploded? man your design is made to explode no matter what.
29thelement 1 year ago
Are you running an inline fuse and a relay to power the system ? I'm hearing to use a 20 amp fuse . My understanding also is that the greater the surface area of the plates the more currrent it draws . As docscott says , you were probably drawing too much current where that nut melted into the plastic . Thanks for posting your results
LostNCyberspace 1 year ago
Thank you to everyone that has commented. At the time of the explosion I was testing and using jumper cables. Not very smart! Now I have a 30amp fuse, a relay and a PWM for full control. I have more neutral plates. I have the electrolyte mix to where it is stable when warm with the PWM on full. On hot days I have to tweak the PWM . I also added a small fan to cool the PWM. The tube has a spark arrestor with a one way valve and a bubbler that can blow apart easily. All connections are tight
SteveF944 1 year ago
Hi, you are quite correct to use a rubber washer, as a tapped thread, in to a thin plate wont get enough threads cut to allow sea, even if tapped i would still use washer, and cut the washer in side DIA, hole to be half a MM, smaer than the bolt, so when tightened the seal is so much more secure....
fuelban 2 years ago
hey, got a question for ya. if i use just a bubbler on the hho fuel cell, am i still in danger of blowing up the generator?, or will the bubbler be the only thing to go???
also, is fuel injection safer than carbeurated engines as far as backfires go? i have a 95 ford explorer.
please help ;)
bikr1975 2 years ago
The bubbler properly installed will prevent the cell from damage. The bubbler should have a top or valve that easily pops off during an explosion. Then you will have a loud noise but no damage. A one way spark arrestor will protect the bubbler and is a must have devise to ensure safety. A backfire is rare on a vehicle in good shape but can happen with fuel injection or carb.
SteveF944 2 years ago
Where is the ground... That could be a big problem if you don't have a ground.
partyhard1985 2 years ago
Yes it is orange peeled bad. The guy that painted it claimed to paint cars for a living. I could have done it better myself. He says that he can wet sand it and buff it.
SteveF944 3 years ago
Honestly I bet he used rustoleum paint on the Porshe. But hey look at the bright side, it isn't rusting right? xD
bigbuffbaldguy 2 years ago
I learned long ago that "professional" means you get paid, not that you necessarily have a clue what you're doing. I hope you've gotten some satisfaction from the guy.
ScottieDM 2 years ago
What a shitty paint job on that car!
cliftonakaangrydad 3 years ago
i had the same thing happen to me a couple time's and i contribute it to my electrolite becoming too conductive wich in return caused my elctrode and cathode to draw to many amps wich of course got hot and melted my tank. shorted out in otherwords. I think that metal or glass tanks are the way to go,less static aswhell when properly grounded. Be careful and thanks for sharing your experienc.
docscot11 3 years ago
Docscot11, I wouldn't use glass, if it explodes like my plastic tank did, you'll have glass shards flying at you, blowout valves are good to have as well.
ChevyI972 3 years ago
from what ive learned, more negative plates produce more hydrogen. ex. 9 plates; 4+ and 5-
amrfritz 3 years ago
Install a Pulse Width Modulator to control your amperage (see Ebay) along with a simple Amp meter. It will control the heat problem with a simple setting.
nerdlnose 3 years ago
This is not a result of your design with the cap. This is caused by thermal runnaway.Your cell designs looks to be running to hot. Nuetral plats will aid in this issue. Look into keeping your water cool anything more than 2.0v per plate gap creates heat. Have you thought about filling your cell and having the thermal movement of the water through a cooler help with heat issues? Just some suggestions.
Regards:
w4fh20
water4fuelh20 3 years ago
That's interesting man, I would think that the main cause of the explosion or overheating is the plate + and - touching each other. Just make sure that only + touch the + and the - touch the negative. I had a bad experience too so I have learned from that mistake. Take care.
Lakunlayar 3 years ago
Hi there I see you have had a bit of tubble have a look at my build for some idears look at "HHO Tank Ready To Go" I show a good way to mount the termanals to the lid very simple no glue was used just a No 9. O ring and a washer on the inside and a washer on the outside with nuts as for the heat you need more Neutral plates maby try +_ _ _ _ _- or if you wanna go bigger +_ _ _ _ _ - _ _ _ _ _ + and so on Good luck :-)
deltahho 3 years ago
Thanks for the tips. I will be keeping an eye on you hho project.
SteveF944 3 years ago