I agree with all your hand file sharpening process and techniques. In addition to what you do I find it helpful to clear the bar and oilers holes with a hack saw blade teeth ground off and sharpened to a point on the 1/2 inc dimension. I also mark the tooth I start on with a sharpe as a quick reference point to keep track of where I started on the chain which is helpful on a 36" bar. great informative videos keep them coming
Not bad. I personally prefer using a grease gun with a needle injector instead of the plastic Chain Saw Grease Gun. Not as portable but it works better.
That was really informative. I've only used the table mounted electric sharpener but never tried by hand. Didn't know that about the takers either, thanks again.
If you do not hold up on the tip of the bar when tightning the vibration and downward pressure will push the bar up even if the bolts are tight and the chain will become to tight.
If you loosen the bar bolts you can grab the tip of the bar and move the bar up and down and as a result the chain will loosen and tighten. You must adjust the bar out of the vice while holding up on the tip of the bar and then tighten up the bolts and check the chain again with the bolts tightened because when you tighten the bolts the bar will move and change the adjustment.
I noticed that when you used the racker gauge that you used the file in a back and forth motion with pressure on both strokes but when you used the tooth file you only applied pressure in the forward stroke. If you drag the file on the back stroke it will dull the file. You should only apply pressure on the forward stroke.
Excelent educational vidio. The sharpning stones for dremel tools are excelent. You can get battery operated dremel and other brand dremel type tools for the field. I have been cutting fire wood for 20+ years and there is nothing better for the pro chainsaw sharpener. The stones leave a better surface finish and remove less materal for a longer lasting chain.
"(Remember) there are two things in life you never want to loan to anyone, one is your wife and second is your chainsaw... as long as you remember those two things, it'll save you a lot of grief"
If you truly want to save a lot of grief I'd suggest you avoid acquiring both in the first place! -although my Makita Dolmar has proven more trustworthy ;)
If you change your own clutch sprockets then consider running two or more(depending on life you get out of them) chains alternately with each new sprocket as the chains and sprockets then wear together instead of a new chain going on an old sprocket and having it's drive links stretched or worn down by contact with drum. Clutches with rim sprockets, the sprocket rim has limit of life markins- bit like a car tyre- when the rim is worn down to this the rim won't hold drive links off bar's bed
Sorry, another point or two. After each tooth use the file handle(wood) or a piece of wood to remove the burr from the tooth- each and every tooth- the teeth are plated and you runthe risk of the harder chromium peelin back in use if you don't, shortening the life of chain.
These do cost slightly more initially but if your sprocket often 'blows' while there is still a lot of life in the rails then it can soon become a saving- gotta love sandy plantations. They just have a couple of pins that yoou knock through, new sprocket on and pins back in.
The bar groove tool also has the curved end to clean the oil ports. Do you turn your bar methodically to ensure even wear? If you have a slight 'notch' developing on your bars just behind the sprocket at the tip then you need to tension your chain a little more as this notch develops as the chain slaps back into place on the bottom of the bar whilst cutting. Depending on how clean the timber is you cut if you use a long bar it may be worht investing in one with a replacable tip sprocket.
You mention not being able to cut straight at times, do you check that your bar's running rails are true and that the correct depth is still there? This influences the ability of the drive links to carry the bar oil and effectively lubricate the whole length, obviously the bar-grove tool needs to be utilised as well for this to be achieved at maximum efficiency. Burrs should be removed as they start to develop on the rails outer edges, so that nicks don't develop in the bar.
The laser-cut angle line shows also the limit of life for the chain as it cannot be correctly sharpened past this point as the angles mentioned cannot be obtained.
Especially important in hardwoods which I don't think you are cutting as your chain is absent rakers, not the depth gauges you refer to, the miniture ramps found on links between the teeth links. The packaging you mentioned as providing information on the angle to be filed at, yet you miss the information on the same packaging that shows the angle to dip the file at(often 10 degrees)- tilting the ffile while sharpening is only wrong if done at the incorrect angle
it also gives the top plate angle- the chiseling edge to the top of the chain tooth which gives the initial cut to the timber AND these angles have all been created not just to cut timber but to do so in the most efficient manner with regard to the longevity of saw,chain,bar and yes operator !
Thank Bernfya for posting his comments about the file guide being necessary. It doesn't just give angle guidance for the cutting angle, it does as he points out also help with the creation of the gullet- which peels away the 'kerf',chip or whatever you want to call it (look end on at the file in situ and you'll notice that a small portion is held above the bed of the guide and so doesn't come in contact with the tooth-so you don't need to "file in a slightly upward direction")
thanks so much. finally found someone who knew what they were talkin about and knows what there doing. and thanks for includeing the part about the drags.
any chance you can make a video on sharpening a square ground chisel chain. All the videos are with round files, can not find anyone doing full chisel chain with a chisel chain file by hand.
Great instructional video. I like the scripture reference at the beginning, too. Well done. Thanks for the time you took to make this available. Very helpful!
can a thirteen year old do it? i cut fire wood when we camp, but its cool im 6foot1 and 155 pounds. by the way stihl is the best, pop a 30 inch bar with a brand new chain and a freshly opened bottle of bar oil, that thing will fuckin rip
There are so many "tutorials" out there, on many topics that are vague,unclear and frustrating to try and follow. This was not one of them. Very good job. Thank you for not only doing it but also thinking about how you did it before the fact.
That was a great explanation of how to sharpen the chain. I have one Poulan which I need to sharpen the chain. I have 2 chains from that saw which was taken off when they were dull. I also have a Stihl saw which I thought would be fantastic, but the Poulan is much better and has not been in the shop since buying it. The Stihl is a piece of junk and much newer. I has been to the shop three times and still don't want to start.
I like how you're very thorough and take the time to explain in detail every aspect of the process. Very few videos do this and they often leave you on your own to fill in the blanks with guesswork.
Hi, I am an old school guy and like to do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I have watched all the hand sharpening videos on you tube, and I can honestly say you have hands down absolutely the best and most detailed explaination out there ! I have been sharpening my own for 30 years and I have learned from this video. Geat job and thanks for sharing, I agree with the proverbs quote you used also, The best intrruction manual of all time ! Blessings to you and yours indeed!
the raker actually doesn't clean out any debris. Its purpose it to set how much wood is being cut. If it is too low (over filed) it will grab too much wood and cause more kick-back, bog down in logs and generate high temeretures on all metal parts including the bar, the sprockets, the powerhead and the piston! If not filed down at all, then the saw won't be cutting any wood but also generating excess heat and damaging the saw parts and piston.
Dremels and grinders take the temper out of the steel by applying too high of heat. Also they are too aggressive and take too much material too fast. Even if you have rocked your chain, 10 or so strokes with the file should take care of it. That said, sharpening still only takes about 10-15 minutes.
1. the tool is called a 'scrench'. A combination of screw driver and wrench
2. the 'depth guage' is also a tool for inspection of specs on the bar for wear that deems in damaging to the rest of the saw. In combination to the flat file, if you file ON your guide, you change the measuring of the tool. I use it to check for height, file the raker, then check again. Remember the teeth on all files are one directional. If you drag back, the file becomes useless.
It is a popular belief that the file guide isn't necessary and can be a bit cumbersome. With practice an attention to the right details, you can't get a more sharp chain out there. Even better than factory! This is a generalized, egoic concept that I don't accuse you of but that I can tell that you have heard this and adopted the belief. The file guide is great also because you can use it in shop or out in the field where most of the sharpening should be occuring.
the file guide maintains the height relation between the raker and the leading edge of the tooth. If no guide is used, the file grinds too deep into the gullet creating a false sense of being sharp that won't last due to being too thin. As with using a guide caution too pull back creates a profile that is similar to a skateboard ramp which is blunt. A guide is essential and must be resting on the raker AND the top plate. What? the 'gullet' is the round void created by the round file.
I hope that makes sense since I understand from teaching experience, that demonstration in this is key over verbal description.
You are correct in the chain behavior when you haven't filed your raker and the teeth are about half their life in sharpening.
I would like to add that as a rule of thumb in chain tension, I would teach that when you have the bar nuts loose and the saw setting flat on the ground, tighten until the drivers raise until they marry up with the bar and stop.
Gotta love it dont loan your wife or your chain saw, dont forget dont loan your TRUCK either, NEVER I mean NEVER loan any of the above . Good video , good advice , Im doing the same thing you are ! Be safe !!!!!!!
You mentioned cleaning the powerhead with an air compressor. I like to take my saws and pull all the cover plates to blow out the motor cooling fins and every area I can get at. The motor will stay much cooler.
I also clean my air filter every time I service the saw. It's amazing how much dust builds up on the air filter.
I also remove the bar and flip it over every time I sharpen to keep the wear even.
dood u need a dremel tool!!! no one does it that way!! dremels r the most heavy duty useful tools today!!! when i wrecked they didnt cut me out with the jaws of life, i had my dremel and i started cutting myself free!!!! and then right after i sharpened 100 chainsaws razor sharp!! true story!! :) get you a dremel is alls im trying to say!! oh btw glad your back you sexy stud you!
You did all that hard work sharpening your chainsaw, but that metal wrench you dragged on the chain to adjust the chain doesn't mess up what you just sharpened on the chain?
The only addition I use is: I remove the bar and lightly grind the bar to square it up. (the rails) This ensures that the chain tracks squarely. Please note: I have a grinder that is parallel to the belt and wheel. Most homeowners dont have this ability. I have done this with a file, but it takes time and knowing how to do it. Guess being in the machine business has it's advantages. Glad to see someone else has a fork truck in their shop too!!
Nice job again Cody. Very well done! I'm glad you put this up again for folks.. I have sent the past saw sharpnng video to everbody who ask me how to sharpen a chain saw. Sure is better than trying to discuss over the phone.
Chainsaw sharpening is fun, i had to do it for a year, we lived on a cabin in the blue ridge mountains on out vacation property. i became quit good at it.
well you lived up to your early promise to deliver a helpful video... that was great, and extremely well presented. Thanks a million.
dailymelodies 2 days ago
I agree with all your hand file sharpening process and techniques. In addition to what you do I find it helpful to clear the bar and oilers holes with a hack saw blade teeth ground off and sharpened to a point on the 1/2 inc dimension. I also mark the tooth I start on with a sharpe as a quick reference point to keep track of where I started on the chain which is helpful on a 36" bar. great informative videos keep them coming
jacobhandyman 5 days ago
Exellent ! exactly what i needed to know of which i used to know but forgot ?
puptread1 2 weeks ago
I learned a few things I didn't know. I have a ms210c and a 660 magnum. Great video!
seabat0603 2 weeks ago
Good vid.. thanks man
treechoppa23 2 weeks ago
what are chainsaw teeth made out of?
CondemnedPatriot 1 month ago
great video
nastastic 1 month ago
Not bad. I personally prefer using a grease gun with a needle injector instead of the plastic Chain Saw Grease Gun. Not as portable but it works better.
wolv57 1 month ago
Watched a lot of DYI videos and this one is one of the better ones. Didn't drag out useless info or malfunctions. Nice video keep them coming!
MrFlyTWA 2 months ago
That was really informative. I've only used the table mounted electric sharpener but never tried by hand. Didn't know that about the takers either, thanks again.
genghisman39 2 months ago
If you do not hold up on the tip of the bar when tightning the vibration and downward pressure will push the bar up even if the bolts are tight and the chain will become to tight.
SuperBanjo1969 2 months ago
If you loosen the bar bolts you can grab the tip of the bar and move the bar up and down and as a result the chain will loosen and tighten. You must adjust the bar out of the vice while holding up on the tip of the bar and then tighten up the bolts and check the chain again with the bolts tightened because when you tighten the bolts the bar will move and change the adjustment.
SuperBanjo1969 2 months ago
I noticed that when you used the racker gauge that you used the file in a back and forth motion with pressure on both strokes but when you used the tooth file you only applied pressure in the forward stroke. If you drag the file on the back stroke it will dull the file. You should only apply pressure on the forward stroke.
SuperBanjo1969 2 months ago
Excelent educational vidio. The sharpning stones for dremel tools are excelent. You can get battery operated dremel and other brand dremel type tools for the field. I have been cutting fire wood for 20+ years and there is nothing better for the pro chainsaw sharpener. The stones leave a better surface finish and remove less materal for a longer lasting chain.
SuperBanjo1969 2 months ago
"(Remember) there are two things in life you never want to loan to anyone, one is your wife and second is your chainsaw... as long as you remember those two things, it'll save you a lot of grief"
If you truly want to save a lot of grief I'd suggest you avoid acquiring both in the first place! -although my Makita Dolmar has proven more trustworthy ;)
whirlpoolzend 3 months ago
Finally, my chainsaw will cut ! Thank you for making this.
1038biglee 3 months ago
Hi There! Thanks for sharing. I now feel confident to attack my chain.
wow23birds 4 months ago
Thanks that really saved me alot of time
Brazzers50 4 months ago
I agree with the carvinrigged comments....I also have watched a lot of sharpening
videos on YouTube and your video is, by far, the best ! Very informative.video.
God Bless. FD
Kalkaekie 5 months ago
Excellent Video...Thank you for the great info. I learned a few things.
jd426999 6 months ago
If you change your own clutch sprockets then consider running two or more(depending on life you get out of them) chains alternately with each new sprocket as the chains and sprockets then wear together instead of a new chain going on an old sprocket and having it's drive links stretched or worn down by contact with drum. Clutches with rim sprockets, the sprocket rim has limit of life markins- bit like a car tyre- when the rim is worn down to this the rim won't hold drive links off bar's bed
bobbeorn 6 months ago
Sorry, another point or two. After each tooth use the file handle(wood) or a piece of wood to remove the burr from the tooth- each and every tooth- the teeth are plated and you runthe risk of the harder chromium peelin back in use if you don't, shortening the life of chain.
bobbeorn 6 months ago
@bobbeorn you are a nutter.
kenfo0 5 months ago
All my comments need reading in reverse order
bobbeorn 6 months ago
These do cost slightly more initially but if your sprocket often 'blows' while there is still a lot of life in the rails then it can soon become a saving- gotta love sandy plantations. They just have a couple of pins that yoou knock through, new sprocket on and pins back in.
bobbeorn 6 months ago
The bar groove tool also has the curved end to clean the oil ports. Do you turn your bar methodically to ensure even wear? If you have a slight 'notch' developing on your bars just behind the sprocket at the tip then you need to tension your chain a little more as this notch develops as the chain slaps back into place on the bottom of the bar whilst cutting. Depending on how clean the timber is you cut if you use a long bar it may be worht investing in one with a replacable tip sprocket.
bobbeorn 6 months ago
You mention not being able to cut straight at times, do you check that your bar's running rails are true and that the correct depth is still there? This influences the ability of the drive links to carry the bar oil and effectively lubricate the whole length, obviously the bar-grove tool needs to be utilised as well for this to be achieved at maximum efficiency. Burrs should be removed as they start to develop on the rails outer edges, so that nicks don't develop in the bar.
bobbeorn 6 months ago
The laser-cut angle line shows also the limit of life for the chain as it cannot be correctly sharpened past this point as the angles mentioned cannot be obtained.
bobbeorn 6 months ago
Especially important in hardwoods which I don't think you are cutting as your chain is absent rakers, not the depth gauges you refer to, the miniture ramps found on links between the teeth links. The packaging you mentioned as providing information on the angle to be filed at, yet you miss the information on the same packaging that shows the angle to dip the file at(often 10 degrees)- tilting the ffile while sharpening is only wrong if done at the incorrect angle
bobbeorn 6 months ago
it also gives the top plate angle- the chiseling edge to the top of the chain tooth which gives the initial cut to the timber AND these angles have all been created not just to cut timber but to do so in the most efficient manner with regard to the longevity of saw,chain,bar and yes operator !
bobbeorn 6 months ago
Thank Bernfya for posting his comments about the file guide being necessary. It doesn't just give angle guidance for the cutting angle, it does as he points out also help with the creation of the gullet- which peels away the 'kerf',chip or whatever you want to call it (look end on at the file in situ and you'll notice that a small portion is held above the bed of the guide and so doesn't come in contact with the tooth-so you don't need to "file in a slightly upward direction")
bobbeorn 6 months ago
Genuinely excellent video - appreciated all the way over here in England. Good man.
irontrimad 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Awesome
fordf150839 7 months ago
thanks so much. finally found someone who knew what they were talkin about and knows what there doing. and thanks for includeing the part about the drags.
247copenhagen 7 months ago
any chance you can make a video on sharpening a square ground chisel chain. All the videos are with round files, can not find anyone doing full chisel chain with a chisel chain file by hand.
jerrymoser71 7 months ago
Great teacher! Clear concise explanations!!! Fantastic Job. God bless ya!
daddyofdamac 7 months ago
Oh yeah, I can feel it! =)
MrMldillman 7 months ago
Awesome
Quillmon 7 months ago
This was the best I have seen....
suggie57 8 months ago
I can hire my wife out though yeh?
:D
Great video BTW
burningsociety 8 months ago
Great instructional video. I like the scripture reference at the beginning, too. Well done. Thanks for the time you took to make this available. Very helpful!
jonesturkey 8 months ago
10 out of 10,Great Stuff. Thankyou
chris3672 9 months ago
10 out of 10,Great Stuff. Thankyou
chris3672 9 months ago
Twist that file when your running it through. Keeps you running straight.
hatestupidusers54 9 months ago
Watching this video gave me an AH HA! moment. Thanks.
vtcycle 9 months ago
when i file i usually file down a little so i always have c shape in the file and my saw cut extremly fast
Ki113rBuD 9 months ago
If I sharpen my chain, do I really need to file down my rakers? If I dont, will it have any regrettable consequencs or negative effects?
gokartspeeder 10 months ago
@gokartspeeder yes u need to take rakers down because ur teeth are at an angle so after u file it down u need to take rakers
Ki113rBuD 9 months ago
Excellent video. Gets right to the point on everything...
rainylakewalleye 10 months ago
Great video!! I have been searching for a video like this for a very long time. Thank you so very much.
razalady 10 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Excellent video mate!!
Thanks a lot of taking the time to make it :)
shaunvanunu 10 months ago
Excellent video mate!! Thanks a lot of taking the time to make it :)
shaunvanunu 10 months ago
by far the best chain sharpening video on youtube
WILDLIFEANDBIRDS 10 months ago
A1 - really helpful, I was mystified and wary, this has explained it so well. Def the best explanation I've seen. Thanks very much. You're a star!
13richjenn 11 months ago
great video thanks a lot!
MrKostitsyn746 11 months ago
oh yeah one more thing is making the gullet have a good hook like a "C" under the top plate.
Travis7114 11 months ago
one critique....you said blade, i believe only once...@ (5:25) but other then that good instructional video
Travis7114 11 months ago
Great video
pbm3113 11 months ago
@D7eadnaught. I can't agree more. Files are overlooked in care and use. Protect those fine teeth and remember they are one directional.
BernFya 1 year ago
I give you an "A". You kept me for 15 minutes.
TheLimbReaper 1 year ago
can a thirteen year old do it? i cut fire wood when we camp, but its cool im 6foot1 and 155 pounds. by the way stihl is the best, pop a 30 inch bar with a brand new chain and a freshly opened bottle of bar oil, that thing will fuckin rip
justyoustupid 1 year ago
can a thirteen year old do it? i cut fire wood when we camp, but its cool im 6foot1 and 155 pounds
justyoustupid 1 year ago
it's a entertaining video. I watched the whole 15 minutes, and I don't even have a chainsaw.
iseethestar 1 year ago 31
@iseethestar Thanks very good
amarc454 2 weeks ago
There are so many "tutorials" out there, on many topics that are vague,unclear and frustrating to try and follow. This was not one of them. Very good job. Thank you for not only doing it but also thinking about how you did it before the fact.
newcoyote 1 year ago
That was a great explanation of how to sharpen the chain. I have one Poulan which I need to sharpen the chain. I have 2 chains from that saw which was taken off when they were dull. I also have a Stihl saw which I thought would be fantastic, but the Poulan is much better and has not been in the shop since buying it. The Stihl is a piece of junk and much newer. I has been to the shop three times and still don't want to start.
semco72057 1 year ago
Brilliant, cheers for that
EnVeeTee 1 year ago
hey just wonderin what stihl that is 290,440? love your vids by the way im v jealous.
deccied 1 year ago
Excellent video brother, thank you!
BlueBandit45 1 year ago
My little tip is look after your file and replace when dull, or your chains will follow in the process
D7eadnaught 1 year ago
I like how you're very thorough and take the time to explain in detail every aspect of the process. Very few videos do this and they often leave you on your own to fill in the blanks with guesswork.
s37d 1 year ago
Hi, I am an old school guy and like to do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I have watched all the hand sharpening videos on you tube, and I can honestly say you have hands down absolutely the best and most detailed explaination out there ! I have been sharpening my own for 30 years and I have learned from this video. Geat job and thanks for sharing, I agree with the proverbs quote you used also, The best intrruction manual of all time ! Blessings to you and yours indeed!
carvinrigged 1 year ago 16
I'm going outside to sharpen my saw
BurnMichaelWeston 1 year ago
Rakers;
the raker actually doesn't clean out any debris. Its purpose it to set how much wood is being cut. If it is too low (over filed) it will grab too much wood and cause more kick-back, bog down in logs and generate high temeretures on all metal parts including the bar, the sprockets, the powerhead and the piston! If not filed down at all, then the saw won't be cutting any wood but also generating excess heat and damaging the saw parts and piston.
BernFya 1 year ago
@BernFya Exactly right !!!!
kimokanka 1 year ago
Comment removed
BernFya 1 year ago
@satinwarship
Dremels and grinders take the temper out of the steel by applying too high of heat. Also they are too aggressive and take too much material too fast. Even if you have rocked your chain, 10 or so strokes with the file should take care of it. That said, sharpening still only takes about 10-15 minutes.
BernFya 1 year ago
I would like to sharpen another...
1. the tool is called a 'scrench'. A combination of screw driver and wrench
2. the 'depth guage' is also a tool for inspection of specs on the bar for wear that deems in damaging to the rest of the saw. In combination to the flat file, if you file ON your guide, you change the measuring of the tool. I use it to check for height, file the raker, then check again. Remember the teeth on all files are one directional. If you drag back, the file becomes useless.
BernFya 1 year ago
cont...
3. The file guide...
It is a popular belief that the file guide isn't necessary and can be a bit cumbersome. With practice an attention to the right details, you can't get a more sharp chain out there. Even better than factory! This is a generalized, egoic concept that I don't accuse you of but that I can tell that you have heard this and adopted the belief. The file guide is great also because you can use it in shop or out in the field where most of the sharpening should be occuring.
BernFya 1 year ago
cont...
the file guide maintains the height relation between the raker and the leading edge of the tooth. If no guide is used, the file grinds too deep into the gullet creating a false sense of being sharp that won't last due to being too thin. As with using a guide caution too pull back creates a profile that is similar to a skateboard ramp which is blunt. A guide is essential and must be resting on the raker AND the top plate. What? the 'gullet' is the round void created by the round file.
BernFya 1 year ago
cont...
I hope that makes sense since I understand from teaching experience, that demonstration in this is key over verbal description.
You are correct in the chain behavior when you haven't filed your raker and the teeth are about half their life in sharpening.
I would like to add that as a rule of thumb in chain tension, I would teach that when you have the bar nuts loose and the saw setting flat on the ground, tighten until the drivers raise until they marry up with the bar and stop.
BernFya 1 year ago
Gotta love it dont loan your wife or your chain saw, dont forget dont loan your TRUCK either, NEVER I mean NEVER loan any of the above . Good video , good advice , Im doing the same thing you are ! Be safe !!!!!!!
soggybuilders 1 year ago
Thanks!
40markava 1 year ago
Very clear instruction, thank you.
ColinOutdoors 1 year ago
excellent instruction i have never learned any of this before
mysciencenow 1 year ago
They can have the wife. Just leave me my tools. Haha. I'm kidding. Great video as always.
URBANAMERICANTAC 1 year ago
Another great video.
You mentioned cleaning the powerhead with an air compressor. I like to take my saws and pull all the cover plates to blow out the motor cooling fins and every area I can get at. The motor will stay much cooler.
I also clean my air filter every time I service the saw. It's amazing how much dust builds up on the air filter.
I also remove the bar and flip it over every time I sharpen to keep the wear even.
Great series Cody, thanks for posting!!!
MrColt45acp 1 year ago
dood u need a dremel tool!!! no one does it that way!! dremels r the most heavy duty useful tools today!!! when i wrecked they didnt cut me out with the jaws of life, i had my dremel and i started cutting myself free!!!! and then right after i sharpened 100 chainsaws razor sharp!! true story!! :) get you a dremel is alls im trying to say!! oh btw glad your back you sexy stud you!
satinwarship 1 year ago
Great video.
If you ever have to change out a Stihl oil pump, I would like to see a video of that.
pjpubsci 1 year ago
i second that, do not loan your saw! i learned the hard way.
parlusk 1 year ago
great demo
wewishujoy 1 year ago
words to live by, great intro
beast12101 1 year ago
Thank you very much, god bless!
cadrician 1 year ago
ISI
TNPviewer 1 year ago
Great info especially the 2 things to remember :)
aaadream 1 year ago
You did all that hard work sharpening your chainsaw, but that metal wrench you dragged on the chain to adjust the chain doesn't mess up what you just sharpened on the chain?
LeathermanFan 1 year ago
@LeathermanFan No the teeth are harder. You are not making a razor with this. You are cutting wood. This is the standard way of doing it-
BlueRidgeMarine 1 year ago
@BlueRidgeMarine Thanks, I hate to see hard work go to waste.
LeathermanFan 1 year ago
The only addition I use is: I remove the bar and lightly grind the bar to square it up. (the rails) This ensures that the chain tracks squarely. Please note: I have a grinder that is parallel to the belt and wheel. Most homeowners dont have this ability. I have done this with a file, but it takes time and knowing how to do it. Guess being in the machine business has it's advantages. Glad to see someone else has a fork truck in their shop too!!
BlueRidgeMarine 1 year ago
Nice job again Cody. Very well done! I'm glad you put this up again for folks.. I have sent the past saw sharpnng video to everbody who ask me how to sharpen a chain saw. Sure is better than trying to discuss over the phone.
BlueRidgeMarine 1 year ago
Comment removed
BlueRidgeMarine 1 year ago
Chainsaw sharpening is fun, i had to do it for a year, we lived on a cabin in the blue ridge mountains on out vacation property. i became quit good at it.
markstevenbuisness 1 year ago