Added: 2 years ago
From: XanderXereus
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  • Thank you for making these videos. I was wanting to do my first resin using a Monster High torso, but wasn't sure what I was doing.  This will help greatly!

  • @raesplaysandreviews Glad I could help!

  • Awesome vid dude! Just 2 questions, does everything you used come in the kit, and also how durable are the final minis?

  • @darthbane53 You'll need your own plasticine, lego, plastic cups and stir rods. but yes, all tje hard to find stuff comes in the kit: the resin, the mold rubber and the mold release agent.

  • @darthbane53 Oh, and the final pieces are quite solid. Obviously the thinner the part, the less solid it will be. But thick pieces will be quite solid indeed. Just be sure to stir the resin well! The better the mix, the harder it will be.

  • This is still one of the best molding and casting video series i've seen

  • Thank you sir,

    I raise my hat to you.

  • marvelous tutorial, looks like it will take a bit of practice, but fantastic stuff. My thanks.

  • just buy a 3 pack space marine and do this woot or ummm other ones or yea you get the point

  • Fantastic tutorial bro. I learnt alot from this. i am planning to cast some of my own mecha parts and your techniques will come in handy. Thanks alot!

  • Is this resin a hard or soft resin. And is it very light or does it weigh a little more than other resins?

  • Intense series. Well done.

  • What resin did you use?

  • 1st comment ever and its 2 u. Making mini sculptires out of clay and wanting to copy them in plastic. U have givrn me the basics to attempt some of my own. When I create would lov it if u could comment.

  • @MASESOX Send me a link when you finish. :)

  • Awesome tutorial dude! Something I always wanted to try and you made it seem so much easier than I expected! Well done and a big Thanks!!

  • Nicely done, Just what I was looking for.

  • Very good series man

    Thanks a lot :)

  • great series man! really shed some light step by step was great thanks XX

  • I just came across this tutorial due to my obsessive research before I under take any project. I am going to convert a half a dozen warhammer 40k minis and several options for them and use your technique and see how one set of casting comes out.

  • Could you use this method to copy models instead of buying new ones? or would that be a waste of money?

  • were can i get all the stuff for it?

  • Thanks to you I made 20 fiends and I am currently working on a custom piece to make myself Skarbrand. Thanks again.

  • you helped me a lot whit this vid. Thanks. Just tell me: what happens if instead using syringe you do a gravity cast?

  • legendary series. thanks for putting in the time mate. :D

  • Thanks for posting

    

  • thanks buddy

  • thank you for the videos :) im thinking of making my very own miniatures, this was the only helpfull video on the whole internet

    

  • Cheers for making this, has been very helpful, this is gonna save me a fortune ^^

  • Cheers for making this, has been very helpful, this is gonna save me a fortune ^^

  • Thanks so much for doing this tutorial. I'm actually looking at making a limited run board game, comedy horror spoof, that uses miniatures. ..this actually looks fun, much less frustrating than I thought it would be.

  • VERY informative: I'm gonna try this.

  • do u get a ton of air bubbles with this resin? if u do get bubbles, do they appear on the surface of your pieces? great vid btw!

  • what will happend if i don´t sprey the 2 molds with the mold reseaser? will it keep togetter??? like your part 6!!!

  • If I wanted it colored what would I use with that kit?

  • Wow....very detailed, very informative :)

    Mind you I'll probably only do basic modeling, such as bases....but it's still a very informative nonetheless :)

    Thanks for the lesson :)

  • Good tutorial cheers, but £40 for a few miniatures seems a little pricey - cheaper to just buy the originals surely?

  • @roseycheekschildmind

    You will probably only want to do it on things you can't buy, or models you want to have loads of. At a certain point this becomes cheaper.

  • Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.

  • this was a really good tutorial series, thanks a lot :D

  • Have you tried doing this on action figure/ action figure parts! if so can you make a tutorial!!! i really wanna try but im hesitant on trying!!

  • Thanks for the info, sorry it took so long for my reply. Have you ever used sealing silicone from a from one of those pump-guns?

  • Interesting. I shall try this.

  • Chachinggggggg! :D

  • What would you do if you had a bigger model that isnt in a 2 piece persay and had more layers like say if it had wings attatched and spikes that go different ways I think it could work just some things Im not too sure about I mean its not like 2 identical sides, like a giant bear thing with hands going totally different dirrections and stuff.

    Thanks again. Andrew.

  • very nice tutorial, although because there are a lot of parts it did take long and it gets tiresom you should use a video editor to skip some bits but overall very nice.

  • just wanted to say a big thank you for this vid, you have inspired me to give it a go myself

  • @wacca1664 Excellent!

    I'd love to see some pics of whatever you end up making!

  • @Tomasdabest I tend to shake very well, then pour a small amount of each into cups. I then attempt to stir as many of the bubbles to the surface as I can, to reduce the bubbles that end up in the mixed resin.

  • What kind of detail does this bring out. Can It be identical to the original if done well?

    I've just started buying a few random miniatures from overseas and Im wondering If i could just take the sprues and cast the whole thing again and again rather than spending as much as they want. Thank you. Andrew.

  • @kentsmedblom If done well, yes, you can replicate things down to the very smallest detail.

  • These videos were great,

    I was wondering if you've ever tried something larger than a trooper figure? A Tank for example. Does the Silicone heat up while it's curing? If so enough to damage plastic miniatures?

    Thanks.

  • @Missinglink87 I've done some moderately larger molds. Tanks parts could be doable, sure. But that would take a lot of mold rubber. The silicone doesn't heat up significantly, no. Plastic can be molded with ease with no fear of it melting.

    Cheers!

  • cool i dun this with night gonlins spru and naw i am making night goblins

  • Is it possible to make a hard mold? As in, it's not as flexible as the silicone mold presented in the video but a harder substance or would that be inadvisable because as the models are a perfect fit , it'd be highly unlikely you'd be able to prise it out of the mold?

  • @Orkle2 Your assumptions are correct, it would make removing the models much harder. I imagine it can be done, as there are a wide range of molding/casting materials out there.

  • that was awesome thanks!

  • @dcaimbeul Cheers!

  • Thanks a lot for this tutorial. It's great!

  • @doncocor Glad you liked it!

  • to get stuff out you might want to try flexing th mould gradually and flexing it a bit more each time

  • @xccckwankly I do just that.

  • thanks mate. Made myself another 5 squads of Death Korps of Krieg with this!

  • @TGTAP To each their own! I am glad I could help teach you the process! It's a very useful hobby skill, for sure.

  • where did you get the materials looks so cool i want a go!

  • @squibby1202 Check the video notes.

  • awesome vid man, i see what i have been doing wrong now

  • @dsm4ever09 It's a very easy process to goof up. It took me a couple molds before I really got it down to a science.

  • if this helps any1 on ebay.co.uk for about 20 dollars including shipping you can get a litre bottle of resin

  • This is the first video serious I've watched on injection molding. Your explanations were very clear and I feel like a understand the basics of the process pretty well now. I can't wait to try to make some molds myself. Thanks.

  • @manilaenglish I am not sure if this is "injection molding" per se, but I certainly found using a syringe to be a great benefit. It can be a bit of a pain to clean out the left over resin in the syringe each time, but it's worth it, I think.

    Glad the videos were of help to you!

  • Very useful and very informative. It would be nice if you could show us some close up ahots or stills of the final resin models so we could see the level of detail on them please they look to be very interesting miniatures

  • @ArigedStudios Sadly, I am not a very good video editor. I lack the software and experience. There are some pictures on my Chaos Dwarf website though.  Though I don't have the link handy. The detail is quite good though, I assure you.

  • Great tutorial, really useful. When in a previous step you removed the plasticine from the rubber and you said it would have been best for the miniature to stay in the rubber not the plasticine, would it be fine to put the mould release agent on the parts when pressing them into the plasticine, like on the undersides, so they release from said plasticine easier? Thanks again

  • @Alienerd Yes, good point. In fact I have started doing this as well.

  • Thank you so much for doing this. I am about to venture into the world of casting Transformers' custom heads and articulated hands, and you have made me feel much more at ease about it!

  • @TheLeathersmurf You are welcome! It's really not as hard as it seems, and only takes a few tries before you get the hang of it.

  • @TheLeathersmurf It can seem like a daunting task. There were some decent videos out there which helped me, but I felt I should make the video series to show what I had learned as well as some of the techniques I found useful.

  • dude can u mail my utbue account with a bit more of a close up on the finshed model, they look sweet?

  • where can i buy one of the chaos dwarf models?

  • do you know if it is legal to copy GS models for you own use?

  • im not sure if this was asked already but how many times can you reuse the same Molds you did with those two guys?

  • Make like a meter long mold xD like 10,000 points that would make you king in no time

  • thaks! u really helped me on figuring out how 2 do this stuff! =)

    and btw: its good that ur speaking clearly, have almost NO irritating buzz in the background and quite good cam quality!

    Really appriciated! *****

  • Great video, i actually just picked up the same kit as you today, lucky for me i have a sculpture supply store not far away, and it was 50$ Canadian. Thanks for taking the time on this.

  • what kit would that be please give the name of the product

  • And I forgot to mention in my last comment so i'll say it now:

    Tjanks for this tutorial now I can finally make my custom lego stuff if you want some free samples then just Pm me.

    and one last question:

    How long do these molds last for do they last lots of injections or do they wear away quickly?

  • @geraint960 I've made several casts without mold degradation. Sometimes as many as 7 casts and still no noticeable change in the mold. Just make sure you remember your mold release!

  • Can you get colourings for the resin?

  • @geraint960 Yes. In fact, Smooth-On sells pigment that is compatible with their kit. I just bought some last week: black. I have been able to use it to make grey casts using only a single drop. :)

  • 5 Starz!!! Thank you!

  • Thank you !! A little trick when making your Mold, If you are getting Air bubbles in the mold figures take a cheap paint brush and paint a layer of RTV mold rubber over the figures then pour mold rubber, as you did; one more thing when you pour the mold rubber; pour a little higher over the mold, just a thin stream of rubber, it will help eliminate some air bubbles, hopes this helps, Craig

  • How brittle are these minis compared to the originals are what you'd find from a gamesworkshop+greenstuff sculpted models?

  • kick ass man, could you pm me a link for getting the set as i have a few mini's i made from scratch and would luv to be able to mould them.

  • wow retrebution angel was right this is amazeing. i have questions tho, where can i buy this set in the uk well south east of england and how hard is it for a beginner?

  • I doubt you will, I live in the Medway towns I get my casting stuff from Sylmasta. PM me if you want their details.

    @Xander:

    Nice video series btw, simple and easy to follow. Thanks for the effort

  • This was really good, thanks a lot!

  • really well presented, thanks for sharing

  • realy nice vids keep em comming

  • i have got to try this

  • thank you.

  • BRILLIANT!

  • Good stuff man, from what I understand you really just need to cure molds for casting metal

    I've also heard that play-doh works for the base

  • I've never done this, but I was looking for a way to make a "copy" of a rock (long story). If anything, it'll be loads easier because I won't have to worry about the level of detail you did. Excellent tutorial - thanks a bunch!

  • Awesome. Thank you very much for making this video for us all.

  • I am pretty sure it's illegal. I would have to look it up to be sure

  • my guess is same as Anim3xxx, should be fine as long as don't try to sell it

  • I think they were Homemade figures which IS Not illegal

  • what paints are the best to paint those type of self-made models?

  • thats awesome! Great Job! Ive always wondered about this, im totally doing it now!

  • you know it's illegal to do that with miniatures that that you bought (like warhammer)

  • thats cool

  • Fantastic Tutorial's Im currently trying to track down some Smooth-On (knowing the package weight would help with postage) also how many casts per mold can you get before you need a new mold?

  • how many times can you use a mold before it goes to shit? =O

  • can you paint the miniatures just like real warhammer figures (or whatever brand they are) with normal model paint. Because I am planning to make a chess set with fictional miniatures for my art GCSE. Great videos. I rate 5 star.

  • Actually. Sorry, I remember you saying that your friend made them. anyway. pleese get back to me.

  • yeah I use the SoStrong pigment myself.. works great. A little pricey, but a bottle will last a long time.. only a drop or two per casting is needed.

  • use pigment made specifically for urethane resin. Smooth Ons Sostrong or other...

  • do u think anyone would care if i made copys of actual modles for my own purpose cause i dont want to get in to trouble

  • brillint, thanks for these videos. what is the manufacturer and name of the kit you used ?

  • I thank you for your kind comments.

    But I scold you for your lack of youtube prowess.

  • thanks for the quick response. if your refering to the fact that I may have missed you say the manufacturer of the kit I am watching these bideos at work and that could be why. but thanks anyway.

  • Nope, there's a much easier way to find out information about youtube videos that the authors supply for you. :P

  • lmao, my bad. don`t blame you for scolding me then. total brain fart there.

  • Now you're on the trolley. ;)

  • hiya, I've just done a few castings of my first moulds. I'm finding that the resin is way too brittle, and everytime I try to remove the casting their weapons and feet tend to snap off.

    Any suggestions?

  • I'd love to see these minis painted. Great vid 5/5

  • great work man, 5 starts 8 videos, how much money do u think u saved already with this molds ??? or made if u sell them afterwards

  • I've saved countless hours by using replication instead of recreation of my friend's miniatures. I haven't made any money selling them, and don't intend to. The figures were gifts from my friend and I just want to replicate them for my own use.

  • Hey, this was cool. I've been looking at the smooth-on website for a few months now, wondering if it's worth it to drop the $60. My one question is: how do the resin pieces compare to the originals as far as fine details? They looked more or less alright, but I couldn't make out much in the way of detail on the white plastic.

    Anyhow, it's awesome to find someone else who has done this, and see how you worked it all out. Thanks for the vids!

  • You should be able to capture almost 100% of the detail. You can run into problems with thin parts, or parts that stick out in weird directions. You need to make air escape holes for things like this. You can usually tweak your mold after making it with a knife. I've been extremely happy with the level of detail.

  • I think you should start a mini forgeworld lol, those are great. are the resin safe as in they wont give out any toxin dust and dont you need to wash the models before painting?

  • I am not sure if it is toxic, but I wouldn't recommend breathing-in plastic dust in general, so. :P

    Wash them? Naw, I'll prime them though.

    Thanks for the comments!

  • Forgeworld advise people to wash their resin before painting or assembling as it still has some of the anti mould sticking thing which i forgot the name of lol, so after you wash it, it would be easyer to paint.

  • Great series, thinking of trying it but wondering if you could do it with metal instead.

  • not with rubber moulds, ud melt/burn the rubber + the detail would be ruind, but it could be done with a metal mould

  • You can get high temperature RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising) rubber that will not burn at the temperatures that lead/pewter is cast at, but obviously a lot more care must be taken with mold construction and while pouring molten metal.

  • yeh, i now wot its like to have molten lead pord on ur skin.(little acsident while makeing fishing weights)

  • Can you do close ups?

  • Close up shot of the minis please

  • Great job as always. I love all your how to . Keep up the good work, Orclord Tim MacCowan

  • this was really interesting thsanks man i might try it :)

  • Really fun to watch!

  • I am glad it was! I fouled up this series a few times! lol

  • Thanks man! I will try to get that second video working...

  • great series

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