Added: 5 months ago
From: CNLohr
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  • Do you think it would be possible to make an X/Y pad with this process using resistant strips or ribbon controllers. I think it would a sweet way to control the 5V CV inputs of an analogue synth.

  • @BelfonteFurnace I have never tried layering this stuff, but I would not imagine it working too well. I don't really know how people do X/Y touch sensors.

  • @CNLohr Ahh well, guess i can only find out through experimentation. I'll give it a go anyhow, if it doesn't I'll just make some nice clear PCBs. these things look gorgeous! thanks for the tutorial

  • @BelfonteFurnace You could always try with the not-glass variety. Additionally, I only have about a 50% yield when making boards of about 20 square inches and up.

  • I am very happy to see the vidoe from you, hopefully the others also are happy for You I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • I Love The Video It Can Increase My Knowledge This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • Steady I Really Like This Video This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • Good, I like that you share this video, I wish success always This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • Nice Video That You Share , So Very Nice Thanks You This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • I Really Like The Video From Your This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • Your Video Is Very Useful Sharing This is a video on how I make my clear glass PCBs. I'll be making a blog post sooner or later with more detail.

  • cool

  • You basically made an android in your hand

  • I MAKE PCB IN A SUIT BITCH. Bro you're the coolest.

  • Thanks for the upload i really liked it, goodsave at 17:20 ;)

  • I dont know how i got here.

    I watched the whole video.

    I have no clue what it is about.

    I think I need sleep

  • Pretty cool :-)

  • Would some simple cyanoacrylate glue( superglue ) work? UV glue isn't available here :(

  • @mrpsypi super glue will not work, I tried several times with it. If it did, there would be many other materials I could use. Maybe epoxies would work, but right now, I'm going to be trying another UV glue. If it works out, it'd be cheaper and easier to get (Since it's Loctite brand). I'll give you a heads up.

  • @CNLohr Ok, that's great! Hope the Loctite glue works out :)

  • Next project - building an Iron Man in your garage. Awesome \m/

  • This is a flawless process and you did it with one hand, while filming and while talking.

    You are my hero.

    :)

    Great video!

  • You want to try Loxeal UV 30-20, its resistant to some of cleaning chemicals. Only problem is, its a bit expensive. Great video btw.

  • @mysteryMachinePL Thanks - but I am generally only into really cheap solutions. Maybe some day.

  • was that an ipod touch casing? :)

  • Cool job :)

  • Why didn't you just contact print from a printed interneg using the UV adhesive?

  • @davolfman What is an interneg?

  • "i try not to touch the microscope slide because i dont want to get the oil on my fingers to get on it"... 5 seconds later *smash *touch *push. you have short tearm dont you

  • @lilhojo123 I try not to get oils on the side I join the copper to.

  • yes a neat idea, good work.

    I was just thinking that Through Hole electronics could make this a big challenge from someone :0

  • Wow, this is seriously amazing. Great result and very nicely explained.

  • Can you send me a link to your blog post describing this project and and schematics on the touch sensitive electronics?

  • @drnjr31 I haven't made a blog post about it yet >.< however, I did finally draw up a schematic and publish my layout. I added it to the description.

  • @CNLohr Thanks for adding the Schematic so quick and the link to the rest of your repository!

  • Pretty cool project. The camera focus bit was funny. A tip, just put the camera in macro mode. No more focus problems.

  • @kd1s It was in macro mode :(. It was a $99 polaroid 720p camera.

  • Very nice result! If the UV glue reacts to solvents - have you tried removing it using the copper as kind of an etching mask?

  • @orgameron I don't really understand your question.

  • @CNLohr You could try to etch away the glue from the glass instead of covering it with PU. I don't know whether there is a solvent that dissolves the glue slow enough that only the parts that are not covered with copper are dissolved.

  • @orgameron Alcohol was pretty slow, but when I tried using it, it looks like I did damage to the traces by the time I got much of any of it up.

  • @CNLohr I think orgameron means leaving the copper traces in place while brushing a solvent over the areas where you don't want/need the UV glue and just using the actual traces to protect the glue like the toner protects the copper during etching. It seems like that's more or less what you're doing with the polyurethane though as it cuts through the UV glue like a solvent but is also acting as a new method to adhere the traces at the same time.

  • @dbzfanatic21 I still don't quite get it - are you describing a photolithograpy method?

  • @CNLohr basically the same thing you do to eat away the copper but for the UV glue you have. Use a solvent instead of ferric chloride(not sure if that's supposed to be one word or not) and use the etched pcb traces instead of toner. That way the glue is removed from the glass and the traces protect the glue under it. Like I said though you're already doing something similar with the polyurethane but with the added benefit of replacing the glue with something else more permanent.

  • Excellent video! I really enjoyed your various comments throughout the process on why you should or shouldn't do certain things, relating to the UV glue and the toner, etc.

    Do you think that you after gluing the copper you could coat it in a photoresist solution, and then transfer the circuit using UV exposure?

  • @dinofizz I see no reason why you cannot use other PCB manufacture methods.

  • Do you think your "copper leaf" is solid copper, or does it have a thin layer of fiberglass on the "dull" side? (What happens if you throw a piece of the leaf into etchant without adding your own backing?) (I'm wondering whether the cloudiness you solve with PU is from the glue, or from the leaf?)

    (ordinary glass absorbs a significant percentage of UV light, BTW. It's nearly impossible to get sunburned inside a windowed building, for example, and "good" UV lamps are made from special glass.)

  • @westfw I would imagine it would completely dissolve, but if I remember, I can find out. I recently discovered I should be using UVB ... I just realized I was using UVC to cure.

  • I doubt the slide has a UV coating - it's just that glass is not very transparent at the short wavelength used in UV erasers (253nm) Eprom windows and eraser tubes are made of quartz for this reason. It may also be the case that the glue is not very res[ponsive at that wavelength. You will probably do better with a longer-wave UV source like an insect-killer tube (365nm).

  • @mikeselectricstuff Thanks! When I get some extra cash, I think I'll try getting a tube for that sort of thing.

  • Could you also post the circuit you just made in the video description?

  • Might also be possible to directly mount chips and LEDs to the glass using Z axis film?

  • @conundrum2007 I have never used Z axis film and don't really understand it... Do you have any references for how hobbyists have used it in the past?

  • Nice! I can see this working well using visible LEDs UV glued emitter down to the board.

    Just a thought, but would this work if you used copper leaf from an arts and crafts shop? Its a lot thinner but you could maybe overplate it with copper to the correct thickness?

  • @conundrum2007 I already tried two or three times using very thin copper leaf and I couldn't get it to stick evenly and be robust enough to survive the rest of the process.

  • Just FYI - You can also search ebay for copper-clad laminate

  • @raysolomon Most of that that I've seen already has FR4 or other fiberglass backing

  • Very neat. I look forward to making some too.

  • This is awesome. I'd love to see a controller like that for say, changing the radio or some sort of game input device. Thanks for showing us how you did it.

  • Super work !, nice idea.

  • Would love to buy some !

  • @Nashblackcat some... of which part? :-p

  • can you feed that copper leaf paper into the printer?

  • @frank26080115 under most processes, no. Some people have used direct inkjet resist deposition, but it's not something I ever intend to attempt. Using pulsar paper is just so easy!

  • what is UV glue and why do you need it instead of something like epoxy?

  • @frank26080115 I updated the post with the glue, etc. I was afraid of it, honestly. I figured the UV Glue was easier. It's worth a try though.

  • Simply fantastic!

  • Great work.

  • Awesome!

  • Even though i have no clue what any of this video meant, I enjoy listening to your voice, its very instructive :P

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