damn good presentation. i almost paid $30 on a disassembly class. This was way better. Question; you mentioned soaking the parts in the Hopps Solvent. Does that include the barrel? Also, I have that same Hopps Solvent bottle; it doesnt seem like enough to soak all the parts in any one container.
Hi Korn - we spoke before. I have the old SA 1911 that jams. Well I noticed a small area of rust on the underside of the slide where the round could hit before going into battery - So I took sand paper and smoothed it down. I have not tried it as ammo is expensive now. But I was wondering how many rounds you have thru that SA 1911 in the demo? How many rounds can we expect to shoot in the lifetime of the gun and what will go wrong first? Thanks Sincerely, JAMES.
Too much oil causes friction, hence dry sump oiling systems on every modern race engine. By using the slightest amount of oil possible, great gains in power are achieved, and all moving parts are able to work smoother and faster, with less resistance. Excessive amounts of oil should only be used if the parts were poorly machined and did not fit well. I respect your opinion and moreover, your experience, but still prefer to use the bare minimum amount of oil on my pistols.
I thought big blocks used larger oil pans w/ more oil? Anyway, your way may be better for all I know. I'm not sure how similar engines & guns are. What I mean is with engines there is excessive heat, pressure, combustion, etc. on cylinders that have rings pressed against the walls. I'd guess that a frame to slide rail isn't as close a fit. If you see like an AR 3 thousand round test, for example, the person literally sprays oceans of lube in the bolt. To this date this 1911 has 0 jams.
So, I've heard both sides argued, & I'm still not sure which is better. I've heard "experts" from both sides but what it comes down to is what works for you. With 0 malfunctions I'm not jinxing myself by changing anything. I'm not sure how many rounds are through it, but I go to the range about every other week & put a box or 3 through. That's like 3-4000 rounds a year for 3 or 4 years now..like 16000 total, conservatively. The barrel though I STRESS must be cleaned of all oil & should be dry.
I agree, but I also think that the "commen sense" perspective comes into play. A good, knowledgeable gun owner should watch this, and hopefully determine which parts need more oil than others. In other words, letting oil "pool up" around the trigger, inside the barrel, firing pin, etc... probably not a good idea. But then again, I take this video as a long-term strip-and clean, or for a daily carry situation. In either case, you wouldn't be shooting many rounds between cleanings.
uh... oil doesn't CAUSE friction, metal on metal causes friction and damage. oil is good. dry sump systems have nothing to do with the amount of oil running through an engine, dry sump just means the oil is stored in an external container. this allows more oil to be stored. its an advantage in race engines also because the crank shaft isn't sitting in a pool of oil which wastes power. don't be stingy with oil, it separates metal parts which if allowed to contact will deteriorate
too much oil does in fact cause friction, it also attracts dirt and grime. If a crank shaft was spinning in a pool of oil , there would be more friction than if it was evacuated like a dry sump, and thats where the extra power comes from. dry sump systems have larger capacities so the oil stays cleaner longer, they run much higher pressures than standard oiling systems, and rush any excess away immediately Its simple, would it be easier to walk through a pool of 1 foot deep oil, or 6in?
exactly but thats not oil causing friction thats the crank pushing a pool of oil out of the way. i explain that in the first reply.. any liquid will cause the same problem though, water, oil, beer( LoL)too much oil collects dirt yes, but thats dirt causing problems then, not the oil itself. dont have it running down the parts getting everything oily but dont be stingy with it!
having someone avoid oil because they think it causes friction is ass backwards.
dry sump oil systems are to prevent lateral G forces from creating a dry pickup in conventional oil pans. LUBE EVERYTHING.. not only does it prevent corrosion but it keeps everything SMOOTH
You are the first person, that I have heard prefer a "wet" gun. Both my grandfathers, my father and all of my uncles have taught me: that when lubing a firearm to run a lubed patch or q-tip over all moving parts, then run several dry over it, to get excess oil off. Also seeing you use the lube with that teflon stuff, I don't see a need to have a "wet" gun due to the nature of teflon. other wise good vid.
I agree, for 10 different people are 10 different ways to clean. I personally have found wet to work best for me. My reasoning is based on this: My wet 1911 has had thousands upon thousands of flawless rounds without 1 jam & I've talked to many 1911 owners who have had many. The 1 main difference that I found: Mine is wet, theirs is dry. It's just what worked for me. I know when I pull the trigger 8 times I'll get 8 bangs. Other people have found the opposite. Whatever works for you. Thanks!
i like a little of both. i keep some oiled parts dry and others wet. i try to keep parts that are directly exposed to powder residue dry and parts that are shielded from powder(for the most part) more wet.
Thank you for the vid. I agree with you - "wet wet wet" concerning lube. I use breakfree CLP as a lube because it bonds with the metal and acts as a rust preventative. As far as "attracting dirt" what I do is wipe off the breakfree and let it all dry out in the open so there is nothing left on the surface to attract dirt. Thanks for Part 2. Sincerely, JAMES.
Well thank you. For everyone else, I do highly recommend Breakfree. Stainless is superior for rust, but there's just nothing like a nicely worn blue to me, for character. I mean World War blued and walnut weapons are still around 70 years later, so I think frequent oil really is the key. Old timers use to literally wrap the things in oiled cloth. If I'm really bored, I'll even very lightly wipe some of my .45 cases down. In my mind it makes me think it feeds and extracts better.
Nasaly voice, I'm sick, gimme a break. Anyhow some of the parts (like magazine & front/rear grip straps) I wont keep wet with oil. If it drops dirt & such will stick to it. I think thats an obvious benefit to using PTFE coating. The parts can be dried yet still be slippery because of the teflon coating that bonds. I got mine for like $3 at True Value. Whatever works for you. Experience for me says food wont stick to teflon frying pans, so rust & metal-to-metal wont stick on teflon guns.
damn good presentation. i almost paid $30 on a disassembly class. This was way better. Question; you mentioned soaking the parts in the Hopps Solvent. Does that include the barrel? Also, I have that same Hopps Solvent bottle; it doesnt seem like enough to soak all the parts in any one container.
arodrig4 2 years ago
Q-tips make excellent cleaning buddies :)
northernpatriot54 2 years ago
Hi Korn - we spoke before. I have the old SA 1911 that jams. Well I noticed a small area of rust on the underside of the slide where the round could hit before going into battery - So I took sand paper and smoothed it down. I have not tried it as ammo is expensive now. But I was wondering how many rounds you have thru that SA 1911 in the demo? How many rounds can we expect to shoot in the lifetime of the gun and what will go wrong first? Thanks Sincerely, JAMES.
buzzclark 2 years ago
Too much oil causes friction, hence dry sump oiling systems on every modern race engine. By using the slightest amount of oil possible, great gains in power are achieved, and all moving parts are able to work smoother and faster, with less resistance. Excessive amounts of oil should only be used if the parts were poorly machined and did not fit well. I respect your opinion and moreover, your experience, but still prefer to use the bare minimum amount of oil on my pistols.
BiffBallbag 3 years ago
I thought big blocks used larger oil pans w/ more oil? Anyway, your way may be better for all I know. I'm not sure how similar engines & guns are. What I mean is with engines there is excessive heat, pressure, combustion, etc. on cylinders that have rings pressed against the walls. I'd guess that a frame to slide rail isn't as close a fit. If you see like an AR 3 thousand round test, for example, the person literally sprays oceans of lube in the bolt. To this date this 1911 has 0 jams.
korn1536 3 years ago
So, I've heard both sides argued, & I'm still not sure which is better. I've heard "experts" from both sides but what it comes down to is what works for you. With 0 malfunctions I'm not jinxing myself by changing anything. I'm not sure how many rounds are through it, but I go to the range about every other week & put a box or 3 through. That's like 3-4000 rounds a year for 3 or 4 years now..like 16000 total, conservatively. The barrel though I STRESS must be cleaned of all oil & should be dry.
korn1536 3 years ago
I agree, but I also think that the "commen sense" perspective comes into play. A good, knowledgeable gun owner should watch this, and hopefully determine which parts need more oil than others. In other words, letting oil "pool up" around the trigger, inside the barrel, firing pin, etc... probably not a good idea. But then again, I take this video as a long-term strip-and clean, or for a daily carry situation. In either case, you wouldn't be shooting many rounds between cleanings.
ptschafer 2 years ago
uh... oil doesn't CAUSE friction, metal on metal causes friction and damage. oil is good. dry sump systems have nothing to do with the amount of oil running through an engine, dry sump just means the oil is stored in an external container. this allows more oil to be stored. its an advantage in race engines also because the crank shaft isn't sitting in a pool of oil which wastes power. don't be stingy with oil, it separates metal parts which if allowed to contact will deteriorate
lejink 2 years ago
too much oil does in fact cause friction, it also attracts dirt and grime. If a crank shaft was spinning in a pool of oil , there would be more friction than if it was evacuated like a dry sump, and thats where the extra power comes from. dry sump systems have larger capacities so the oil stays cleaner longer, they run much higher pressures than standard oiling systems, and rush any excess away immediately Its simple, would it be easier to walk through a pool of 1 foot deep oil, or 6in?
BiffBallbag 2 years ago
exactly but thats not oil causing friction thats the crank pushing a pool of oil out of the way. i explain that in the first reply.. any liquid will cause the same problem though, water, oil, beer( LoL)too much oil collects dirt yes, but thats dirt causing problems then, not the oil itself. dont have it running down the parts getting everything oily but dont be stingy with it!
having someone avoid oil because they think it causes friction is ass backwards.
lejink 2 years ago
dry sump oil systems are to prevent lateral G forces from creating a dry pickup in conventional oil pans. LUBE EVERYTHING.. not only does it prevent corrosion but it keeps everything SMOOTH
davenorr84 2 years ago
You are the first person, that I have heard prefer a "wet" gun. Both my grandfathers, my father and all of my uncles have taught me: that when lubing a firearm to run a lubed patch or q-tip over all moving parts, then run several dry over it, to get excess oil off. Also seeing you use the lube with that teflon stuff, I don't see a need to have a "wet" gun due to the nature of teflon. other wise good vid.
smilesmcgee33 3 years ago
I agree, for 10 different people are 10 different ways to clean. I personally have found wet to work best for me. My reasoning is based on this: My wet 1911 has had thousands upon thousands of flawless rounds without 1 jam & I've talked to many 1911 owners who have had many. The 1 main difference that I found: Mine is wet, theirs is dry. It's just what worked for me. I know when I pull the trigger 8 times I'll get 8 bangs. Other people have found the opposite. Whatever works for you. Thanks!
korn1536 3 years ago
i like a little of both. i keep some oiled parts dry and others wet. i try to keep parts that are directly exposed to powder residue dry and parts that are shielded from powder(for the most part) more wet.
drewhenderson13 3 years ago
Thank you for the vid. I agree with you - "wet wet wet" concerning lube. I use breakfree CLP as a lube because it bonds with the metal and acts as a rust preventative. As far as "attracting dirt" what I do is wipe off the breakfree and let it all dry out in the open so there is nothing left on the surface to attract dirt. Thanks for Part 2. Sincerely, JAMES.
buzzclark 4 years ago
Well thank you. For everyone else, I do highly recommend Breakfree. Stainless is superior for rust, but there's just nothing like a nicely worn blue to me, for character. I mean World War blued and walnut weapons are still around 70 years later, so I think frequent oil really is the key. Old timers use to literally wrap the things in oiled cloth. If I'm really bored, I'll even very lightly wipe some of my .45 cases down. In my mind it makes me think it feeds and extracts better.
korn1536 4 years ago
Nasaly voice, I'm sick, gimme a break. Anyhow some of the parts (like magazine & front/rear grip straps) I wont keep wet with oil. If it drops dirt & such will stick to it. I think thats an obvious benefit to using PTFE coating. The parts can be dried yet still be slippery because of the teflon coating that bonds. I got mine for like $3 at True Value. Whatever works for you. Experience for me says food wont stick to teflon frying pans, so rust & metal-to-metal wont stick on teflon guns.
korn1536 4 years ago