Added: 2 years ago
From: tinmantech
Views: 90,896
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  • Holy shit. These vids are awesome, but I hope there's at least one person you passed all this on to in person.

  • great work 

  • Amazing work

  • Is brazing aluminum joints as strong as welded joints?

  • @gbftats07 It can be, depending on the design of the joint. A brazed lap joint can be as strong as a butt-welded joint. - tinman

  • nice job, but where is ur saftey equipment ? :P

  • that was beautiful work, i never seen anything like it before.

  • Very informative! Thanks for the video lesson!

    Cleco's! :)

  • CAN I REPAIR PITTING AND CORROSION ON A 168 Gallon MARINE DIESEL FUEL ALLUMINUM TANK SEVERAL HOLES IN BOTTOM...IF NOT CAN THE BOTTOM BE CUT AND REPLACED/WELDED BACK ON? PLEASE HELP

  • Is your shop at your house? Thats one huge garage if it is. 

  • I tried this on a BSA gas tank and i can't seem to get the tank to accept the rod. I'm using the Aero braze. Soft flame, clean. 

  • @jf99151 British Small Arms made motorcycle fuel tanks that were formed of BirmaBrite, equivalent to our 5052, which my company clearly declares as simply not joinable with this rod. I must apologize for any confusion. There is an excellent alternative, however, and that is our Rod & Flux Combination. I recommend using our TM2000 welding lenses though (to absorb the sodium orange flare given off by the flux). - tinman

  • Would this technique work for a steel bicycle fender for filling small rust pits?

  • @AutoPilotDeLorean For steel rust pits you have to dig all corrosion and dirt out of the bottom of each pit, making the steel bright. Then you can use roll solder and its activated flux from the hardware store. Flux the fender and the solder wire, warm the fender until the flux sizzles and then touch the solder to the spots. the solder will flow in and fill beautifully. For chrome, use the orange flux-coated silver braze we have on our website. - tinman

  • great work

  • Awesome,having went thru a welding class in 01, was never taught this welding process was poss. would sure like to know more about this process . Cannot say enough about your abilities Just saying GREAT work sorta minimizes it ! Keep up the videos Thanx

  • wow! Mr White is like a painter with that torch. I wish I had his skills! beautiful work!!

  • what type of brazing rod did you use,brand?

  • @burningeyes101 It is our TM Aero Braze, flux core. You can find it over on our website. good stuff. - tinman

  • Great work! Thanks for sharing. I'm about to do some brazing to attach a short extruded alu on a 4mm sheet. Will the brazing ruin the anodized finish on the opposite side of the sheet?

  • @valordk Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching. The answer to your question is "Yes" it will ruin the anodized finish, sorry to say. - Tinman

  • nice work gramps

  • good video but I wish it was in a higher definition so I could really see textures

  • Kent what do you think of that hts 2000 stuff. would it be good for aluminum brazing on wheels. they were corroded and pit marked really bad and sandblasted turns out theres holes through the wheel

  • @toyolla86

    hts stands for “high temperature solder” It melts at over 725F but it is not a braze. You can try it if you want to. (I don't use it). Tinman

  • @tinmantech

    what would you recommend i use on these BBS aluminum wheels. im not sure if they were forged or cast aluminum. i have an OA torch and a dc tig welder with argon or helium.

  • @toyolla86 I don't know enough about their alloy or temper or coatings to help you on this one. Sorry. - tinman

  • Very informative !!! Thanks.

  • That's just magical, I envy your skills and years of experience!

  • If all you get out of this is did he say tooth brush then stick with bagging groceries at the grocery store. I have a mechanics degree Kent and I am happy to say that you are a born instructor. I enjoyed your film and it taught me some of the stuff I had forgotten as well as new hints. I want tot hank you for ajob well done. Oh by the way Kent, some people don't know a good thing if it hit them like a 2 x 4.

  • @coach32217 Gosh, thanks for your kind comments. Your post really gave me a good laugh! glad to be of service. best of success to you. - kent

  • good stuff thanks for your time I like the vid

  • you are me new hero....

  • wizard at work ,im`e a bit self taught ,but i love the terminologhy joust your filler,its so true ,but i was oxy accetaline welding my first bike tank ,is it hot enough ,joust,is it hot enough,joust ,yes . long life and happiness ,cheers fred ,uk

  • thanks for the info!

  • Thank you, Kent, for sharing your mastery. Very sweet sensitivity to the materials and vibing with the techniques. Been practicing, I guess............ TJ

  • "I think they're trying to fool ya" HAHA damn right they are!

    I learned a long time ago that no product can take the place of skill.

    Either take the time to really learn the skill or take your work to someone who has.

    Folks who half assed do things are better off doing nothing at all.

  • very nice thank you!

  • whoa, whoa, whoa!!!

    Did you say a "stainless steel toothbrush"?

    That must hurt....

  • yeah, the dentist hates when you use those.

    we have them over at TM Technologies (go to Welding / Accessories -- the stainless steel toothbrush is there. it's indispensable.

  • What kind of brazing rod was used in this vid?. Im trying to find some good rod and dont want to end up with some of the wonder metal garbage.

  • our TM Technologies AeroBraze, flux-cored.

    Excellent stuff.

    Kent for TM

  • Excellent work.  Good explanation between soldering, brazing, and welding at the end.

  • Beautiful craftsmanship and skill.

  • I've always been fascinated with this. How do you determine the temperature so as not to melt the aluminum, is is set by the melting temp of the rod or something?

  • @cybersynaptics Every flux has a specific melting point, usually 100F to 250F below melt of the filler, depending on the parent material. You have to bring the metal up to temperature, then hold the temperature consistent by holding and "dabbing" the heat . Watch carefully to observe the 3 temperature indicators: 1) the flux melts, 2) when you see "runout" of the flux joust your filler at the hot surface, 3) suddenly the surface will accept the filler onto it. Best of success. Kent

  • just admiring the skill.

  • You make that look sooooo easy!

  • thanks for all your lessons..keep them comming!!

  • That is unbelievable. Amazing work Sir.

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