Added: 4 years ago
From: golgofrinchian
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  • To much ego in here and not much passing of sound knowledge. Those of you with older MB's claiming you dont have to do much or any mods to run straight oil (SVO or WVO) you are somewhat correct when dealing ONLY WITH OLD MB's. Those suckers love the stuff. But that does NOT exctrapolate to other vehicles well. Go to "BurnvegDOTcom" for straight logical discussion

  • @coachgeo I think the original intent of the video back in 2007! was to dissuade people from buying all of those "conversion kits" scam artists use. I myself have heard people say "I would love to run biodiesel in my merc but dont want to mess with all of the parts needed to convert it". That is where the problem lies, too much false info has spread out about greasecar kits and the like.

  • The best part about running the Bio-fuel or veggie fuel and dino fuel all in one tank, it keeps it clean with less algae build up and little to no sediment in the bottom of the tank. I recently bought a 1982 240D my "conversation" was all new fuel lines only b/c they were original to the vehicle. I put bio fuel, veggie oil and Dino fuel in it, whatever's available I use and I have never had one problem yet and just recently hit 35K miles of doing this. Don't believe hype, you don't need 2 tanks.

  • what is all the fuss about bio this veggi this, do you want cheap fuel for your diesel car

    use furance oil,,

    and don't give me that crap about taxes, see how much tax exxon shell etc are paying

  • I run my 240D SWVO and its coldist start was 24F

  • I think people are just confused when they say "biodiesel conversion" they probably mean WVO conversion. I'd laugh though if I saw someone pay to have their car converted just to use B99.

  • You guys rock. I've been running soy oil w/up to 20% Diesel and some ATF for lubrocity for nearly a decade w/o any problems. My mixture is never exact. I live in Southern California and do spend quite a few weekends a year above 5000ft and in the mid to low 30s. My glow plug system assures a start every time and w/a few min. of two footed driving until combustion temp normalizes, I've had no problems. Ive played w/both 617 motors and Ford 7.4, all the same result.

  • I changed the cigar hose and the 4 little injector to injector hoses. That was my conversion. Other than that I put 10k miles on this car running pure 100 % biodiesel. In the winter I mixed it with dino diesel to keep it from gelling up. Most of the time I could get away with 25% or less dino in the mix. When I first started running Biodiesel I had to change my big filter 2x and the smaller inline filter 3x. Once that junk was out of the tank I never changed another filter.

  • two tank system is needed in colder temps. If your handy, you can set up a second tank (i choose where the spare tire was mounted) and then run the water lines through it, before they head through the radiator. Then run your fuel lines so you can switch between tanks after it's warmed up. More important is how WVO is filtered and should be chemically converted to bio diesel (lye and methane) That removes the glycerin which would otherwise build up wearing cylinder rings, losing your compression.

  • @BmxDieseldude not only in colder temps but period, starting/stopping with svo is not very desirable.

  • @circusboy90210

    starting and stopping on veg tends to be an issue on DI diesels as it gets into sump easier before engine starts, it can cause oil to set like jelly when it cools, so next start up it ruins bearings....evidently, but weve never had any problems.

  • @tpvalley svo also causes problems with engine oil contamination as it washes down the cylinder walls more readily. there is really so many reasons not to do this to your investment.

  • @circusboy90210

    have u ever actually witnessed oil setting like jelly?

    I havent. only read about it.

    To be honest the only problems Ive ever come across is blocking fuel filters.

    I fancy using waste oil though as my friend owns a cafe and he PAYS someone to collect it, have to be twin tank with new pipework etc and Ill have to treat oil.

  • @circusboy90210 I was running Biodiesel at the time I made this video. If you make Biodiesel, you do not need a conversion kit and separate tanks and so on. The fact that people at will swap SVO or Biodiesel or WVO in their sentances means there is a lack of understanding that I was trying to (with obvious little effect) squash. Biodiesel is filtered vegetable oil that has gone through a transreesterfacation process that removes the glycerin from the oil.

  • @golgofrinchian I understand that this fairly simple process of making biodiesel has been made to seem very complex. The making of long chain molecules out of garbage is chemically not even that complex . However transertification does not remove the glycerin.(as far as I've been able to assertain) I'm really glad you're here trying to remove the confusion though.

  • So you think i dont know the diffrence??

    SVO is straight vegy oil, like filling up with unused cooking oil aka retard's method

    Biodiesel, Filtered, chemically clean, titration. still not safe to run it on one tank...

    What i am saying is USE 2 TANK METHOD WHEN USING ANY BIO FUELS, It will save lots of trouble...in the long run.

  • So what in the title " Diesel cars do not need conversion to Biodiesel" ever indicated I used SVO and therefore meant I was a moron in your opinion?

  • @zech007 Using straight up SVO the "retard's method"? How funny, tell me, what do you do with all that glycerin once you're done processing your bio-diesel? SVO burns carbon neutral and with no bi-product making it very effective and "waste" free. Anyhow, usually people use a system of various filters to make sure impurities (or at least not as much garbage) don't reach the engine.

  • @zech007 your so full of shit. i run on used corn oil, veggie oil, and i mix it with diesel, and it all goes in 1 tank. w124 pride son.

  • Because you do not understand the difference between SVO and Biodiesel does not mean you have to call people names. Become more educated on the difference and see what your new found education garners you

  • @golgofrinchian and btw, yes i know the diffrence between biodiesel and wvo and svo, but i have never run my car on biodiesel, but you still dont need mods, like every 1 is saying.

  • wow ur a tard. you can mix regular diesel with bio diesel. its not differnt. you just need to have some sort of heating system if ur useing bie diesel in cold weather cuz it can gel up easely

  • @zech007 wow, your an idiot, i run my mercedes on used corn oil, and i just pour it into the tank. older diesels do NOT need modifications. only reason people think you do, is the media said you need to, and people make money off conversion kits. in the winter i do the same as this guy and run a diesel corn oil mix, but i havent had problems with my car.

  • @zech007

    You're right, there's a reason why people go through the trouble of installing an extra tank on the trunk. Maybe the OP didn't know that. No need to call him/her an idiot though...

  • I ran biodiesel not SVO. Also a dictionary would significantly bolster your comment.

  • Best to use certain additives with biodiesel to stop varnishings building up in pump which can seize up bosch VE for example.

    See diesel bobs website and it shows pictures of failed parts due to biodiesel.

  • Give it a couble years. All the bugs in the fuel will be figured out. I heard that biodiesel will clog up filter and injectors because it will clean up the fuel tank and fuel lines from years of rust forming. Its also corosive to certain materials.

  • On di engines if u use bio for cold starts the part burnt residues from incomplete combustion contaminate sump oil gradually so that one day ur oil sets into a glob when cold, fire her up and bang!

    Corrosive to certain pipes yes, and filter cloging, but u jus change it after a few miles.

    Bio is perfect for an old cheap diesel

    with bosch pump.

  • it wont go bang. it just wont run.

  • diesels DO run on veg oil, waste, fresh etc, its the pumps that fail if u have a lucas or stanadyne etc, bosch is good but can be killed by varnishings.

  • @tpvalley true and biodiesel is not appropriate for all diesel applications either not to mention the associated need for more pm. so yes you do need to do some conversion on a lot of vehicles to run biodiesel especially 100%. please be properly and thouroughly educated before risking your precious investment.

  • @circusboy90210

    ha, my "investment" only cost £350 luckily!

  • @tpvalley true but what is the next one going to cost you?? what type vehicle is it anyhow?? this is truly no reason to be flippant about money. another issue not brought up with this is removal of glycerin, and changing your oil more often as the svo washes down the cylinder walls more readily than real dino diesel. If youre going to do this it's adviseable to at least use a two tank system with extra filters and in tank heater, along with a seperate return for the svo.

  • @circusboy90210

    its the effort in fixing em I dont like!!

    I run a bosch pump anyway, a VE, its veg oil suitable, best to use certain additives aswell. I dont use veg as it costs as much as diesel btw.

    But in summer I can get away with a 50/50 mix without worry. other than needing to change fuel filter several times. Is glycerin an issue with new veg oil?

    The cars an old 1.8 ford.

  • '83 MB 300 TD with over 300,000 miles run with filtered 70/30 wvo/diesel mix for 3 mths and good for approx. 3k miles and 3 filter changes. In storage for winter.

    '95 E300 DIESEL with over 400,000 km run for 3mths and undocumented distance on 70/30 wvo/diesel blend with NO filter changes yet and currently in subzero temps.

    Hope this helps.

  • No More varsol for me and I will continue to use the 70/30 blend, maybe changing the ratios seasonally or as the trips dictate. At town speeds 100% wvo seems fine. Super hi-way speeds work best with the blend for long trips I find.

    I changed the 1st filter - the car ran FANTASTICALLY SMOOTH on the highway for that first 80 miles.

    After changing the filter for a second time the car was quieter, gave better mileage (I went 475 miles before the fuel lite lit) and didn't smoke beyond startup.

  • Summary--Ran the 83 in august on wvo for first time.

    Ran 300 mi. for day and a half at superhighway speeds before 'bog' and filter change.

    Ran the smoothest 80 mi. b4 'bog' at high speed when passing. Let car sit for 5 min and was able to get it home at relative hi-way pace. Changed filter and (I think)'cigar' hose.

    Ran for next 2-3 mths (2k-3k mi.) with no problems until I felt a little 'bog' and cahged filter for 3rd time b4 putting the car away for the winter.

    The '95 has wvo run 2mths.

  • That 2k was the 3rd filter change since running wvo in the 83. So GOLGO was right about that also. Considering the markets and economy these days I think this knowledge is worth its weight in 'oil'...haha...let's corner the market soon since I see bright things for old MB diesel 'futures'.

  • The 83 put about 2k miles on before it needed a new filter. Not bad at about $5 ea. and 5 min work to cut my fuel bill by 70%. The 95 has not had a filter change yet and is running so fine and gets great mileage so I want to sell the 83. WVO is Very Cool and YOU WERE RIGHT--NO CONVERSION NEEDED.

  • Update....the 83 is put away for the winter. The 95 is being run in town by my wife. It is mixed with a 30-50% blend and is running fine. We had a 3 day cold snap where temps were -17C, the car was plugged into a block heater and wasn't driven for 3 days, yet started after 4 glow plug cycles and was fine afterwards. Now that it is less cold (-5C)haha, it is running fine. I find wvo from fries to be the best. Some wvo has fat and makes my 83 sluggish till blended. Thanks for the insights.

  • Thanks for the advice. I had tried running a diesel mix to dilute the wvo, but the filter is till 'iffy' on the highway. It runs fine in town tho...I will change the filters again and probably buy some more spares. I will update as time goes by...btw... the varsol did end up causing a fuel hose to swell and have to be replaced. I used too much varsol before so I will run an oil/diesel 70/30 blend for a time. So far you are 'right on' about not needing a 'conversion' kit. Cheers!

  • The hose is probably part of your problem more than the filter at tis point.

  • I changed the fuel filters in the 83 after losing power on the highway. After the filter changes the car ran great for about 80 miles and then started to display the 'clogged filter' effect again. No power going uphill and shaky driving...Is this normal? I am ready to change the filters again, but it is only after 1 day and I am a bit disappointed. Should I drive with a blend of wvo and diesel ALWAYS...or can the car run on wvo alone? Thanks.

  • Sorry about replying I was locked out of my acct. Ok so when I started running Bio-D I noticed I clogged 2-3 filters in as many days. The reason for this is BioD and probably the mineral spirits are a sovent (moreso than dino). This solvent breaks apart the 25+ years of sludge hanging out in the bottom of your tank. Keep changing the fuel filters as needed. Carry a spare large and 2-3 small ones in your trunk for a few tankfuls. Then it should be all clean forever. Good Luck!!!

  • With certain pumps biodiesel will cause the rotor head and or main injection pistons to seize unless the fuel is allways over 40 degreec C. EG lucas/ rotodiesel need thin diesel to penetrate and lubricate parts. Stanadyne also mess up easily.

    Bosch is good for veg oil and I believe the VW PD engines r OK to.

    Also on DI engines if u start cold on bio deposits r created that get into sump oil and cause it to set like jelly!

    I see many cars broken as they make same mistake. Inline pumps r best.

  • FYI...These trials are run on the 83 300D Turbo.

  • The idea is to have the 3% mineral spirit solution sit for a week to aid lowering the viscosity. On a similar note, I read a study testing svo on farm equipment done by the petroleum industry in 1982. They found that the best solution was a 70/30 mix of rapeseed(canola)oil to diesel fuel. This being efficient as diesel fuel alone. I tried a simialr ratio this week when running my first batch and all was well until I 'bogged' down a bit when tromping the throttle pedal. Any ideas? Thanks again.

  • Try 20% Biodiesel, I hear it is the sweet spot for performance according to a Liquid Gold video here on YouTube ™.

  • Google Golden Fuel Systems

  • Thanks for the swift reply bro! On a personal note, I am new to the WVO scene and had filtered a first batch 2 days ago. It's cut with 3% mineral spirits and I will have it sit for a week. How do you feel about such a mix as an alt fuel? Thanks again!

  • Never heard of using mineral spirits. Basically any hydrocarbon in liquid form will run. I think that mineral spirits are a bit of a harsh solvent. Just be careful using harsh stuff in your engine!

  • I saw 'white spirits' mentioned on Top Gear and treid a varsol solution to aid in lowering hte viscosity of hte WVO. I've driven 300 miles and all was well until yesterday when I had a 'bog' in performance when trying ot pass someoneon the highway at over 120km/hr. I think it may be the fuel filters and will have htem changed on

  • Good Info! I have an 83 300 Turbo Diesel and a 95 E300 Diesel. Can I run WVO in both Benzes and which if any need the changed hoses? Where are they located? Thanks.

  • The 95 should be fine.

    The 83 the hoses you will have to replace will be the ones going from injector to injector. The small ones. Get ones called Viton. Lots of places on the web. Over time you may need to replace the "cigar" hose but I drove mine with 100% biodiesel and that hose was fine.

  • I know biodiesel is a solvent, so does it eat away rubber hoses?

  • Older hoses yes, newer (post 80's) cars come with biodiesel safe hoses. In some countries in Europe they already use biodiesel as a filler in their gas. So if you have an old merc or vw you may need to upgrade to viton hoses. If not you should be fine.

  • maybe the conversion thing is a disinformation campaign by govts and oil companies who want you to keep buying diesel.

  • so why did we need to know your tach and speedo are busted ?

  • its not a tach its a clock that tells the time,,, he"s just revving it not driving it thats why the speedo dont show any movement.

  • what mileage do u get? is there a difference in performance from regular diesel?

  • Slightly less than dino-diesel. The fact that it is basically free means it is more cost effective. If you have to buy it from a pump they mix it with dino-diesel meaning the emissions are drastically reduced.

  • but do you filter your wvo b4 you put it in the tank?

  • either proper filter socks or a cut off pair of jean legs made into a "sock" or a "J" cloth. anything between 2 & 10 microns really

  • what about preventing the fuel from gelling? do you only run it above the wax point or do u have to heat it at all?

  • i live in the UK so it doesnt really get too cold here,but in the winter i run a engine water heated fuel filter housing so after a few minutes after starting from cold i switch over from one tank to the other. in the USA, Greasecars do a simple kit using water heated fuel lines and a water pipes in the veg oil tank so after ten mins the veg oil is up to temp and can be used.

  • what do u have to do to make a diesel run on biodiesel, do u have to use blends and does it work with any car

  • Every single diesel in the world will run on biodiesel. Any hydrocarbon compressed under extreme pressure will explode. Rudolf Diesel even made an engine that ran on coal dust. The first diesel engine ran on peanut oil, Diesel wanted farmer to grow their own fuel.

  • For every acre of soybean you get 100 gallons of biodiesel. Thats 2 less barrels from the middle east. Most 100 acre farms could grow over 2000 gallons of oil in 1 season. Mix that with dino-diesel and you have even less reliance on oil.

  • i find i get the same mileage and slightly more power from mine(1985 ford escort diesel)

  • I have a 1987 mercedes diesel running off of homemade biodiesel and the coversion really helps. it only cost me $400 for love craft biodiesel to do it.

  • who the hell needs a conversion? oh, yeah, almost forgot, stupid ppl need a conversion.

    I am simply going to install a heating coil for the winter , not a conversion, just a heating coil ;)

  • yeah right $2 hose

    viton hoses are expensive compared to the stock ones

  • Ok $17

    Sorry it breaks the bank. It isnt a $1500 conversion kit though.

  • thats true

    but its either an at-home BD setup

    or

    an onboard SVO one

    it doesnt have to be so expensive tho

  • They're right. Biodiesel can be so corrosive that it actually removes nasty gunky build-up on the inside of your fuel tank, causing it to clog your fuel filter. If you're lazy, you could just skip the preliminary cleaning and buy a spare fuel filter to have on hand for when the origonal one bites the dust.

  • I been running my 20 year old car on used veg oil filtered through a very fine cloth and have done 35,000 miles with no problem and i am not using an expensive bio-diesel kit conversion,just a 3way tap and a piece of hose and a jerry can added to my car!

    Never lets me down!

  • nah you just need a conversion for running it on grease or veggy oil

    no biodiesel conversion necessary

  • UST and AST? All I know is I have put over 20K miles on both of my mercedes diesels and I converted nothing other than the 2' of hose in the return lines. I am helping to dispel the ignorant propaganda out there against biodiesel.

  • UST and AST's do need a preparation that is referred to as a "Conversion" to store Biodiesel in them. You must clean the storage tank and remove all water and contamination... check out cleanfuelamericadotcom and see the video of what they remove from the tank bottom...

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