Hey budddy. I got a 2000 Honda Civic and my Ignition Control Modules keep burning out. I'm about to install the 5th one and I haven't even had the car for a year. I'm guessing that it has a shorted wire connecting to it. The yellow one looks a little smashed and melted. I'm trying to save myself another module and a new distributor that i'm considering installing. Have you ever changed any of the wires that hooks to your module? and if so was it a pain in the ass?
@darklily1313 Never had to change the wires, but it shouldn't be too difficult. If you've ever crimped an electrical fitting on the end of a wire, you'll be fine. They are a dime a dozen at any parts store, so don't worry if you screw a couple up. I suggest you take a piece of spare wire and do a couple for practice...
dont feel bad man accords are awesome i have a 96 but it might just be sign if old age i say drive it till the wheels fall off. but try another ignition control module in the distributor cap
Hey sorry for not solving your problem but you seem very knowledgable and could help me out. I have been trying to fix my damn car for over a year now but can't get it perfect. It gets all 4 cylinder misfire codes and the multiple cylinder misfire code. It has a slight jerk when switching gears. It shakes when idle. Also, the tachometer acts wierd (video showing basically exactly what tachometer does: /watch?v=4g_gUvfa9DI) THANKS ALOT DUDE!!
Also where is ICM located (97 accord 4 cylinder)?!
@SporeVenom The ICM is inside the distributor, underneath the ignition coil. You have to take the distributor cap off, then take the ignition coil off, and then you should be able to unscrew the ICM. I'll check out your vid and see if I can give you any suggestions...
did u ever find out what this prob is bc i have a 95 accord and its doin the same friggin thing and i did just like u replaced everything ignition wise ............... just drop me a pm if it was fixed and what it was
Oh and did you try replacing the entire distributor because the distributor has 3 sensors built into it that can only be replaced by changing the entire distributor, my car has a similar problem when my cyp sensor decides to not work my car has a rough start and misses occasionally
@fretwizard420 Uhmm I'm sorry to call you out but is your car stock? Cause my car hits either fuel cut or ignition cut at 120 and I have a 1995 Honda accord lx with a f22b2 with short ram intake and exhaust, the only way to get past 120 is to get your ecu tuned and you said you hit almost 140, I may be wrong but from my experience I can't get my car over 120 mph
Check the connection of the big white ground wire on the ignition switch had a hatchback did the same thing. Those ground wires tend to go out some. If it's sorta brown then you probably should reconnect it.
@chrisnjenny100407 It's in the video description what it was on for. Random/multiple cylinder misfire and rear o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Based on those codes, it sounded like it just needed a full tune-up and a rear 02 sensor. So I went ahead and replaced the sensor (even though that sensor merely measures catalyst effeciency) and did one HELL of a tune-up, and it was still a no go.
@fretwizard420 after you replaced the o2 did you clear the codes? is the check engine light still on? if it is reset by removing the positive or negative terminal of the battery. turn the car back on and drive it for a while until it turns back on and read the codes again and see what you get this time
@chrisnjenny100407 I cleared the code with my OBDII Scan tool. The light came back on shortly after for the same 2 things. I also cleared it by doing the battery trick. Same results. Always came back after a short while. I assumed there must have been a short/break in the wiring somewhere for the rear o2 sensor....
I had a similar problem with my 98 accord and i replaced the starter and its been about a month and it hasnt done it since then.....a starter might run you about 100 to 130....so good luck
Just my 2 cents:: Have you tried WAITING for the dash lights/beeping to stop before starting it? In my ancient Honda, I wait for the PGM (computer) light to turn off before cranking it. The PGM light stays on till the main relay is activated and the fuel pump cycles on. I don't know how the newer models Fuel injection system works but it may just be that if you start it too quickly it doesn't have time to get the fuel pressure up high enough. Then again I'm probably completely wrong!
@nightmathzombieethan It did this no matter how long I waited, or how many times I would turn the key back and forth to put the fuel pump through it's prime cycle. I thought of this too...
I know I am a little late for this response....but was your car an automatic? If so, the components on the Automatic Transmission Control Module (Located under Passenger side carpet/floorboard on the Right hand side) could be fried. I noticed the 'D4' light was upon starting* This was a common symptom for this model.
@vermasean It was an auto. Wouldn't the TCM cause it to shift improperly, at the wrong time or not at all? It wasn't doing any of that. once it started, it drove perfectly.
have you ever cleaned out the carbon in the engine you can use like seafoam and put it through a vacuum line it cured my initial stalling and I used bg 44k in my fuel line works perfect now
it is actually the fuel pump, but make sure that when you get it changed that they clean out the whole gas tank and fuel lines.... or it will clog again, and do this.... my dads pos 04 ford trucks' fuel pump, failed twice, this was EXACTLY what his was doing
YOU MIGHT BE TURNING THE KEY TOO FAST. WAIT FOR THE BEEPING TO STOP. YOU SHOULD HEAR THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE KICK IN. THAT SHOWS THAT THE MAIN RELAY IS WORKING. I HAVE A 1990 HONDA ACCORD THAT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM EXCEPT IT STARTED WHEN IT WANTED TOO:(
what i found out is that the honda main relays are defective what i would try is getting one from a autoparts store not from honda cause i found out that hondas factory relays solders suck
did you change the master relay for the fuel pump and fuel injection under the dash i have a 94 honda accord and my car was doing the same thing and i changed that and its done fine ever since cost me 50 bucks at orielys auto parts
@markberube1 At first, I tried to re-solder the original one (several times) with no luck. Then I went to a Honda dealership and spent $100 on a brand new one. Still didn't fix it. I did mention this in the vid I think. I do now however know that the original main relay was good, as I have it in my Prelude now (they use the same one) and it fires right up first time every time.
did you change the master relay for the fuel pump and fuel injection under the dash i have a 94 honda accord and my car was doing the same thing and i changed that and its done fine ever since
@MrAccord1994 We didn't think it was the fuel pump, as it ran absolutely PERFECT after it started. It never misfired or threw a code for a lean fuel condition when it was running. I even hit almost 140 mph with it doing this. If fuel pressure was the problem, I don't think it could have done that...
did you ever figure out what the actual problem was? been starting on third try for almost three years??? I've got a similar problem but would have started with everything you have already done
@seanjohnful Tried that. I took the entire fuel rail & injectors out, cleaned the injector ports, EGR ports and runners, and all the passage ways. Didn't affect anything or fix the problem though...
same ting happen on my 1996 integra and was a ignition switch there is a white round part whit 3 whires on the other side of the switch its holded for 2 screws openit up sand it up in the inside will see some kind of burn up thats the problem on mine just sanded and good to go.....
Idle control sensor, it send a signal to the ecu how much fuel to throw out on cold starts...if it's bad Itll take a few time to get it to start. Your attempted 3 times, you lucked out. Me in a good day, the fifth try. On a bad day, the eighth try lol.
I have a 94 accord ex.. My car however doesn't do the 1 2 3 thing though.. It sometimes just doesn't turn on like the battery is drained.. But what has a big impact on high milage cars is the timing belt and I have change it , it has 170k so that's my first bet or my ignition. But I guess I'm too late haha ..
I know you no longer have the car but for future reference. It's was a cracked solder joint on the main relay. Which is why the problem was intermittent.
The ECU runs the fuel pump for two seconds with the ignition switch in the ACC position to pressurize the fuel rail. After you start the vehicle the main relay is supposed to keep the pump running when in the ON position.
In your case it wasn't.
The engine started ran on the stored rail pressure bled it out then died.
@Bushougoma I thought it was that too, so I actually re-flowed the solder in the main relay. That didn't help, so I re-soldered it again with new solder. Then when that didn't work, I purchased one new from a Honda dealership. Not even that helped. Now unfortunately after the car is gone, I can confirm that both the old and the new relay are good, because when I put them in my Prelude, it fires right up. I saved them both and some other parts just in case.
@fretwizard420 Well on the bright side at least the car committed heri kari before you dumped any more money into it.
The next step would have been to check the fuel pressure for an intermittent fuel delivery condition on the first two starts with a fuel pressure gauge. For an intermittent fuel pump you would have probably seen low fuel pressure on the first two rail primes.
I would venture to say the issue is a bad catalytic converter. Just thought I'd weigh in on this for people who might be having similar problems. If your car acts like that starts, runs for a second then dies and nothing you've done can get it right, try to disconnect your exhaust from the manifold and see if it runs. If so then you know that the problem is in the cat, most likely it's stopped up and keeping the exhaust gases from passing out through the tailpipe.
Wow I cant believe the woman heit you head on! if you check my 96 Accord I posted up two videos but that car is now totalled as well some woman ran a green light that did not have the right of way cause she didnt have the green arrow which means on coming traffic goes first which was me. but she t-boned my car. So i bought another 96 Accord it doesnt have idling issues but the engine runs rough
Wow I cant believe the woman heit you head on! if you check my 96 Accord I posted up two videos but that car is now totalled as well some woman ran a green light that did not have the right of way cause she didnt have the green arrow which means on coming traffic goes first which was me. but she t-boned my car. So i bought another 96 Accord it doesnt have idling issues but the engine runs rough
Oh man, my Accord EX from 1994 is doing that exact samething! But I don't think I get as lucky as it turning on always on the 3rd try... Sometimes it does this problem and they told me give it a little gas, so I do, and then it's like it's catching on and would either die or actually turn on..
@LoCDoGG1984 Nope, Sorry. I had replaced that VERY early on as I also suspected that. Bought a brand new one OEM from Honda. Didn't change a thing. But I needed it anyway, cause the car was stolen and I got tired of starting it with a screwdriver once I got it back. I made this vid with the new ignition switch already installed.
@fretwizard420 i had a similar problem but mine sometimes started and sometimes didnt. i discovered that the hoses on the driver side were not connected correctly. these were Vacuum control valve and control solenoid valve, they go to the engine mount control solenoid valve around where the intake manifold is. the hoses had to be swapped, once i changed the way the hoses where the car has run good. you can go on google and see what im talking about just look up VACUUM CONNECTIONS FOR ACCORD
@worldalvin lol, & its dumb for people to post comments without properly reading the video description or other comments made. I don't even have the car any longer, & I did have it properly diagnosed. It threw 2 codes as I stated above.
1.) Random Cylinder Misfire
2.) Rear O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Most of those parts I put in are just part of a full tune up. And the other shit, It needed cause the thing was stolen and they fucked it up. I took it to many mechanics, as stated in the description.
Neither of which have anything to do with the "actual" problem. The quick stall when attempting to start throws the misfire code, and the 02 sensor has been shot for years, much prior to this problem.
Sold it and got $4,000 for the car, and bought a Prelude Si outright with cash. Starts FIRST time EVERY TIME, lol.
Why don't you just get a new Honda? I have a 2009 Honda accord ex and it's great!!! Mabe u should really get a 2010 Honda accord! I here from friends it's a hell of a great car!!!!!!
will it start and run again after the third key cycle? like you do the first second and third attempt and it starts. then can you turn the key off and turn it back on and crank the engine and will it start and run then. does it only do the third start thing after its sat over night or in the lot at your job or house? fuel pump could be causing this problem. so weak that it takes that long for the fuel to get to the fuel rail but it can maintain fuel pressure enough to run after its to the rail.
this comment is way late, but I know how you feel on the main relay issue. I went to honda and bought one too, felt like a dumbass as well.....cheers bro.
@tkempxxx thanks for the suggestion, but that was one of the things I replaced early on, as I also suspected it was the culprit. I never found out what it was because I no longer have this car anymore. Got hit head on by a drunk driver and totaled it. I have a Prelude Si now. Paid in full thanks to that drunk bitch that hit me...
clean the air mass flow with carb cleaner if doesnt work - clean the idle with carb cleaner if its not then the tps is the problem.these are the starting problem pieces. but this is the idle surely he is in the first place for this problem
it seems to me like the car isnt getting in no air to mix with the fuel...maby ur intake/ manifold is smashed or messed up from accident...u should do a vid with the cam facing the motor....
Hey thanks for the advice man. But unfortunately since it was totaled, I no longer have the car. And boy do I miss her. Bought a 4th gen Prelude with the money I got for it. Clean as a whistle too.
2) before ignition, connect the pressure gauge on the fuel line and check the fuel line pressure. compare the stock value that you can ask to the service.
and or
3) at night, connect the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line, run the engine, then stop engine, note the pressure and leave the car. at morning, if the pressure lower then %10, your fuel pump or the line damaged.
Intersting that it worked with no problems after being totalled. Well, to help you save time and money in the future i'll reply anyway. I noticed your check engine light is on. The first thing I would have done is check for engine codes.
Your model car should have a blue connector with two holes on the drivers side under the dash. Use a paper clip to connect the two holes and the "check engine light" will start flashing. Long flash =10 and short flash= 1. The result is your code and you can find out what it means usually with a repair manual or by contacting a dealer. (google helps too)
I would say that a sensor was failing or perhaps idle control
i would have to disagree...seeing as my family has owned4 honda's....... it all depends on the car.......maintenance etc.....98 civic...90 integra... 96 civic..05 civic....mind you i have owned a ford/....omg a ford yes a ford...and has out lasted all except the 05 civic due to the civic was purchased new and my mustang was purchased used...both 05 and my stang are still going..its a race to see who outlast who ahaha..and my mustang has seen nitrous and the drag strip tones of times...
That's VERY true. A car is only as good as the care it's given. If you take care of it like shit, then you'll have a shit car. If you take great care of it, then you'll have a great car! Honda does have a GREAT rep, and a little better build quality in my opinion than most American cars, but I've also seen American cars get run through the shitter and still keep on going. Just remember one thing....CHANGE YA DAMN OIL!!!! Ha ha
Fuel lines (blockage or very likely twist/crush on feed or perhaps return pipe) maybe fuel pump? Follow fuel lines back from engine to tank & look for corrosion, pinches, crushes etc.
Then follow wiring from fuel pump & look for similar. Just a thought.
Honda is a ripoff!! Nice reliable cars til they break then you gotta pay big time (or on older cars most likely scrap! like mine soon)
This sounds very similar to what a friend went through with his 99' Grand Cherokee. The 3x to start for him was something he dealt with for 6 months until he finally decided to change his fuel pump. He used to say that he'd have to turn the key 2x in order for enough fuel to be in the fuel line, and usually the 3x it would suffice to start the car. It may be irrelevant but check your fuel line with a fuel pressure meter. During your first 2 attempts.
change the computer it control the engine and trany might b starting not sure but check it it is located on passenger side under dash if u move carpet u wil see
I was going to say the same thing this sounded more like a computer glitch of some kind.
also this is for everyone don't forget every time you turn the key off then on the cars computer reboots from scratch. also always let the car warm up or better yet listen to the engine when it tones down the car is ready to be driven.
before that the computer is still resetting and if you just jump in and drive off you can cause the computer to crash and then create huge computer problems (like this one) even if the car is already hot always start it and then DO NOT touch the gas peddle until the car tones down (or wait for around a minuet)
@orangie84 Thanks for the suggestion, but I no longer have this car. Got slammed head on by some drunk woman, and totaled it. I have a Prelude Si now.
They've seen it. And most say it's "some sort of electrical problem". But I've already replaced almost every piece of my ignition system. I just don't want to spend thousands at a Honda dealership getting a tech to fix it if I don't have to.
Hey budddy. I got a 2000 Honda Civic and my Ignition Control Modules keep burning out. I'm about to install the 5th one and I haven't even had the car for a year. I'm guessing that it has a shorted wire connecting to it. The yellow one looks a little smashed and melted. I'm trying to save myself another module and a new distributor that i'm considering installing. Have you ever changed any of the wires that hooks to your module? and if so was it a pain in the ass?
darklily1313 1 week ago
@darklily1313 Never had to change the wires, but it shouldn't be too difficult. If you've ever crimped an electrical fitting on the end of a wire, you'll be fine. They are a dime a dozen at any parts store, so don't worry if you screw a couple up. I suggest you take a piece of spare wire and do a couple for practice...
fretwizard420 1 week ago
dont feel bad man accords are awesome i have a 96 but it might just be sign if old age i say drive it till the wheels fall off. but try another ignition control module in the distributor cap
Keithingle 1 week ago
I have a 97 EXL the proplem may be a dirty engine or carbon deposets or simple corrosen
MrDreamcastx 2 weeks ago
clean your idle control valve and some good spark plug wires
taittyler 3 weeks ago
clean your idle control valve
taittyler 3 weeks ago
mine runs fine never have that problem
chriscast101 3 weeks ago
did you pull the code. what is your check engine light code.
DuBNeTiX 4 weeks ago
Easy you neeed to to check timing
HottyAsakura 1 month ago
did you try the crank sensor?
chrisRaguba 1 month ago
Hey sorry for not solving your problem but you seem very knowledgable and could help me out. I have been trying to fix my damn car for over a year now but can't get it perfect. It gets all 4 cylinder misfire codes and the multiple cylinder misfire code. It has a slight jerk when switching gears. It shakes when idle. Also, the tachometer acts wierd (video showing basically exactly what tachometer does: /watch?v=4g_gUvfa9DI) THANKS ALOT DUDE!!
Also where is ICM located (97 accord 4 cylinder)?!
SporeVenom 1 month ago
@SporeVenom The ICM is inside the distributor, underneath the ignition coil. You have to take the distributor cap off, then take the ignition coil off, and then you should be able to unscrew the ICM. I'll check out your vid and see if I can give you any suggestions...
fretwizard420 1 month ago
@SporeVenom you should try testing or replacing the fuel pump
mikediorio56 1 month ago
idle control valve/stepper motor
stevietheg2580 1 month ago
did u ever find out what this prob is bc i have a 95 accord and its doin the same friggin thing and i did just like u replaced everything ignition wise ............... just drop me a pm if it was fixed and what it was
terrienm 2 months ago
Change the fuel pump
tonyjuarez43 2 months ago
Change the fuel pump
tonyjuarez43 2 months ago
Tps seansor
gedimind77 2 months ago
disributor internal leak
mx5turb092 2 months ago
Oh and did you try replacing the entire distributor because the distributor has 3 sensors built into it that can only be replaced by changing the entire distributor, my car has a similar problem when my cyp sensor decides to not work my car has a rough start and misses occasionally
kallikk1478 2 months ago
@fretwizard420 Uhmm I'm sorry to call you out but is your car stock? Cause my car hits either fuel cut or ignition cut at 120 and I have a 1995 Honda accord lx with a f22b2 with short ram intake and exhaust, the only way to get past 120 is to get your ecu tuned and you said you hit almost 140, I may be wrong but from my experience I can't get my car over 120 mph
kallikk1478 2 months ago
How's your timing? Make sure your timing is right, and make sure your belts aren't too tight.
stephjax93 2 months ago
It's probably you fuel injector.
rickyb1306 3 months ago
You never said anything about changing the starter.
mishakol129 3 months ago
Did you ever figure this out?
RogerIyengarDotCom 3 months ago
Check the connection of the big white ground wire on the ignition switch had a hatchback did the same thing. Those ground wires tend to go out some. If it's sorta brown then you probably should reconnect it.
c4ndyb4by14 3 months ago
@c4ndyb4by14 The ignition switch and wiring harness were all brand new OEM from Honda. Still did it... : (
fretwizard420 3 months ago
is that a check engine light????? if it is you should start there first. im a honda acura tech. so pm me and ill help you out.
chrisnjenny100407 3 months ago
@chrisnjenny100407 It's in the video description what it was on for. Random/multiple cylinder misfire and rear o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Based on those codes, it sounded like it just needed a full tune-up and a rear 02 sensor. So I went ahead and replaced the sensor (even though that sensor merely measures catalyst effeciency) and did one HELL of a tune-up, and it was still a no go.
fretwizard420 3 months ago
@fretwizard420 after you replaced the o2 did you clear the codes? is the check engine light still on? if it is reset by removing the positive or negative terminal of the battery. turn the car back on and drive it for a while until it turns back on and read the codes again and see what you get this time
chrisnjenny100407 3 months ago
@chrisnjenny100407 I cleared the code with my OBDII Scan tool. The light came back on shortly after for the same 2 things. I also cleared it by doing the battery trick. Same results. Always came back after a short while. I assumed there must have been a short/break in the wiring somewhere for the rear o2 sensor....
fretwizard420 3 months ago
is that a check engine light????? if it is you should start there first. im a honda acura tech. so pm me and ill help you out.
chrisnjenny100407 3 months ago
I had a similar problem with my 98 accord and i replaced the starter and its been about a month and it hasnt done it since then.....a starter might run you about 100 to 130....so good luck
777AndrewR 3 months ago
buy a new ignition key lock
zorann100 4 months ago
Just my 2 cents:: Have you tried WAITING for the dash lights/beeping to stop before starting it? In my ancient Honda, I wait for the PGM (computer) light to turn off before cranking it. The PGM light stays on till the main relay is activated and the fuel pump cycles on. I don't know how the newer models Fuel injection system works but it may just be that if you start it too quickly it doesn't have time to get the fuel pressure up high enough. Then again I'm probably completely wrong!
nightmathzombieethan 4 months ago
@nightmathzombieethan It did this no matter how long I waited, or how many times I would turn the key back and forth to put the fuel pump through it's prime cycle. I thought of this too...
fretwizard420 4 months ago
clean air intake happend to friend
MrSkullmasher 4 months ago
Clean your throttle body and MAP sensor
xxdemasterxx 4 months ago
hi i am pete i live in san diego
thank you for the video
my 1990 honda accord ex
does the same thing
i am going to ask for help
mine is an automatic
GOD bless you for you
please make more videos
salvtori.pete@hotmail.com
surfsinge 4 months ago
Did you get it fix? I have the same problem on my 95 ex. Here is my video
oyXpFdPVSHo
elreydonomar 4 months ago
It looks like your key is worn out.
Did you try to spray wd-40 to lubricate the ignition (the key hole)? It really sounds stupid, but it doesn't hurt to try.
josh777777 5 months ago
@josh777777 The car had a completely brand new OEM ignition switch and lock/key cylinder in this video. It was still doing it...
fretwizard420 5 months ago
I know I am a little late for this response....but was your car an automatic? If so, the components on the Automatic Transmission Control Module (Located under Passenger side carpet/floorboard on the Right hand side) could be fried. I noticed the 'D4' light was upon starting* This was a common symptom for this model.
vermasean 5 months ago
@vermasean It was an auto. Wouldn't the TCM cause it to shift improperly, at the wrong time or not at all? It wasn't doing any of that. once it started, it drove perfectly.
fretwizard420 5 months ago
by the way main relay problems is extended cranking with no starting
chubhub22 5 months ago
have you ever cleaned out the carbon in the engine you can use like seafoam and put it through a vacuum line it cured my initial stalling and I used bg 44k in my fuel line works perfect now
chubhub22 5 months ago
did you check the air in the tires maaaaan hehe
913los 5 months ago
it is actually the fuel pump, but make sure that when you get it changed that they clean out the whole gas tank and fuel lines.... or it will clog again, and do this.... my dads pos 04 ford trucks' fuel pump, failed twice, this was EXACTLY what his was doing
Legoman0323 5 months ago
It's your tire main relay
rickyracer31 6 months ago
its the chassis ground or maybe the engine ground.
henrylovesweed 6 months ago
YOU MIGHT BE TURNING THE KEY TOO FAST. WAIT FOR THE BEEPING TO STOP. YOU SHOULD HEAR THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE KICK IN. THAT SHOWS THAT THE MAIN RELAY IS WORKING. I HAVE A 1990 HONDA ACCORD THAT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM EXCEPT IT STARTED WHEN IT WANTED TOO:(
uscfan626 6 months ago
Fuel Pump..
goeasy8 6 months ago
what i found out is that the honda main relays are defective what i would try is getting one from a autoparts store not from honda cause i found out that hondas factory relays solders suck
markberube1 6 months ago
Cat converter?
Ryannbench 6 months ago
did you change the master relay for the fuel pump and fuel injection under the dash i have a 94 honda accord and my car was doing the same thing and i changed that and its done fine ever since cost me 50 bucks at orielys auto parts
markberube1 6 months ago
@markberube1 At first, I tried to re-solder the original one (several times) with no luck. Then I went to a Honda dealership and spent $100 on a brand new one. Still didn't fix it. I did mention this in the vid I think. I do now however know that the original main relay was good, as I have it in my Prelude now (they use the same one) and it fires right up first time every time.
fretwizard420 6 months ago
did you change the master relay for the fuel pump and fuel injection under the dash i have a 94 honda accord and my car was doing the same thing and i changed that and its done fine ever since
markberube1 6 months ago
Its your fuel pump, You must have takin it to some stupid ppl if they couldn't tell
MrAccord1994 7 months ago
@MrAccord1994 We didn't think it was the fuel pump, as it ran absolutely PERFECT after it started. It never misfired or threw a code for a lean fuel condition when it was running. I even hit almost 140 mph with it doing this. If fuel pressure was the problem, I don't think it could have done that...
fretwizard420 7 months ago
ya i had that problem..but it worked it self out :/
brety099 7 months ago
did you ever figure out what the actual problem was? been starting on third try for almost three years??? I've got a similar problem but would have started with everything you have already done
apowerz420 7 months ago
@apowerz420 Sold it. Got $4K and bought a 4th gen Prelude with the cash.
fretwizard420 7 months ago
your distributor
18dariuse 7 months ago
just pay for a full diagnostic. better to do that than replace parts that dont need to be.
definitionofill 8 months ago
Dude my 99 civic ex started doing the same thing at that same mileage. does yours do it even worse when your gas gets below half a tank?
cheeese101100 9 months ago
@cheeese101100 Seems to be pretty consistent. Didn't notice a change with more or less gas.
fretwizard420 9 months ago
its the EGR it needs to be clean
seanjohnful 9 months ago
is the ger its needs to be clean
seanjohnful 9 months ago
@seanjohnful Tried that. I took the entire fuel rail & injectors out, cleaned the injector ports, EGR ports and runners, and all the passage ways. Didn't affect anything or fix the problem though...
fretwizard420 9 months ago
I think you had a bad computer!
djweszone 9 months ago
same ting happen on my 1996 integra and was a ignition switch there is a white round part whit 3 whires on the other side of the switch its holded for 2 screws openit up sand it up in the inside will see some kind of burn up thats the problem on mine just sanded and good to go.....
SuperFabi85 9 months ago
A new motor only cost 1g try that
jdmdcmn 9 months ago
you look like Jamie Kennedy
ArT2Oo0 10 months ago
mine was doing this i took off the fast idle control sensor and it now starts up the second try lol
scrapkilla321 10 months ago
Idle control sensor
PHETTRAINING 10 months ago
Idle control sensor, it send a signal to the ecu how much fuel to throw out on cold starts...if it's bad Itll take a few time to get it to start. Your attempted 3 times, you lucked out. Me in a good day, the fifth try. On a bad day, the eighth try lol.
PHETTRAINING 10 months ago
try adjusting the throttle cable?
lizardmandx 10 months ago
y ppl hate a honda?
nicholastmhsw 11 months ago
I have a 94 accord ex.. My car however doesn't do the 1 2 3 thing though.. It sometimes just doesn't turn on like the battery is drained.. But what has a big impact on high milage cars is the timing belt and I have change it , it has 170k so that's my first bet or my ignition. But I guess I'm too late haha ..
NeftaliRose 11 months ago
my 95 accord ex got the EXACT SAME PROBLEM 1 2 3 start an also my rpm only goes to 5000
lonnie8911 11 months ago
its the imobilizer, my dad had the exact same problem
bonkerzmhann 1 year ago
You should try using a OBD 2 device to find out what is wrong. If you have tried that then idk......
zyx296 1 year ago
Crankshaft Position Sensor
nyhsjm 1 year ago
I know you no longer have the car but for future reference. It's was a cracked solder joint on the main relay. Which is why the problem was intermittent.
The ECU runs the fuel pump for two seconds with the ignition switch in the ACC position to pressurize the fuel rail. After you start the vehicle the main relay is supposed to keep the pump running when in the ON position.
In your case it wasn't.
The engine started ran on the stored rail pressure bled it out then died.
A very common issue.
Bushougoma 1 year ago
@Bushougoma I thought it was that too, so I actually re-flowed the solder in the main relay. That didn't help, so I re-soldered it again with new solder. Then when that didn't work, I purchased one new from a Honda dealership. Not even that helped. Now unfortunately after the car is gone, I can confirm that both the old and the new relay are good, because when I put them in my Prelude, it fires right up. I saved them both and some other parts just in case.
fretwizard420 1 year ago
@fretwizard420 Well on the bright side at least the car committed heri kari before you dumped any more money into it.
The next step would have been to check the fuel pressure for an intermittent fuel delivery condition on the first two starts with a fuel pressure gauge. For an intermittent fuel pump you would have probably seen low fuel pressure on the first two rail primes.
And so ends the curse of the Accord EX.
Bushougoma 1 year ago
Fuel pump for sure.
sweetlikeADAM 1 year ago
I would venture to say the issue is a bad catalytic converter. Just thought I'd weigh in on this for people who might be having similar problems. If your car acts like that starts, runs for a second then dies and nothing you've done can get it right, try to disconnect your exhaust from the manifold and see if it runs. If so then you know that the problem is in the cat, most likely it's stopped up and keeping the exhaust gases from passing out through the tailpipe.
dwate3865 1 year ago
check ur fuel pump
jayeilyn 1 year ago
So start it three times and be done with it.
smithraymond09029 1 year ago
Wow I cant believe the woman heit you head on! if you check my 96 Accord I posted up two videos but that car is now totalled as well some woman ran a green light that did not have the right of way cause she didnt have the green arrow which means on coming traffic goes first which was me. but she t-boned my car. So i bought another 96 Accord it doesnt have idling issues but the engine runs rough
YoJoeEX96 1 year ago
Wow I cant believe the woman heit you head on! if you check my 96 Accord I posted up two videos but that car is now totalled as well some woman ran a green light that did not have the right of way cause she didnt have the green arrow which means on coming traffic goes first which was me. but she t-boned my car. So i bought another 96 Accord it doesnt have idling issues but the engine runs rough
YoJoeEX96 1 year ago
Oh man, my Accord EX from 1994 is doing that exact samething! But I don't think I get as lucky as it turning on always on the 3rd try... Sometimes it does this problem and they told me give it a little gas, so I do, and then it's like it's catching on and would either die or actually turn on..
SpitfireZero 1 year ago
@SpitfireZero try changing fuel pump ?
DaRealistBiitch 1 year ago
it is a distributer
hondamike987 1 year ago
Ignition switch is the problem 100%
LoCDoGG1984 1 year ago
@LoCDoGG1984 Nope, Sorry. I had replaced that VERY early on as I also suspected that. Bought a brand new one OEM from Honda. Didn't change a thing. But I needed it anyway, cause the car was stolen and I got tired of starting it with a screwdriver once I got it back. I made this vid with the new ignition switch already installed.
fretwizard420 1 year ago
@fretwizard420 i had a similar problem but mine sometimes started and sometimes didnt. i discovered that the hoses on the driver side were not connected correctly. these were Vacuum control valve and control solenoid valve, they go to the engine mount control solenoid valve around where the intake manifold is. the hoses had to be swapped, once i changed the way the hoses where the car has run good. you can go on google and see what im talking about just look up VACUUM CONNECTIONS FOR ACCORD
v02721 10 months ago
thats dumb to throw all those parts at the car , get shit diagnoses properly first.
worldalvin 1 year ago
@worldalvin lol, & its dumb for people to post comments without properly reading the video description or other comments made. I don't even have the car any longer, & I did have it properly diagnosed. It threw 2 codes as I stated above.
1.) Random Cylinder Misfire
2.) Rear O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Most of those parts I put in are just part of a full tune up. And the other shit, It needed cause the thing was stolen and they fucked it up. I took it to many mechanics, as stated in the description.
fretwizard420 1 year ago
chack the OBD code
sario22152 1 year ago
@sario22152 It threw 2 codes.
1.) Random Cylinder Misfire
2.) Rear O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Neither of which have anything to do with the "actual" problem. The quick stall when attempting to start throws the misfire code, and the 02 sensor has been shot for years, much prior to this problem.
Sold it and got $4,000 for the car, and bought a Prelude Si outright with cash. Starts FIRST time EVERY TIME, lol.
fretwizard420 1 year ago
its your distributer coil...your engine randomly looses spark no matter the rpm...bad distributer coil
JordanTS2007 1 year ago
have you tried cleaning the IACV? Idle Air Control Valve. It helped with my car.
jordy19892012 1 year ago
vacuum for the win
thebrim82 1 year ago
Why don't you just get a new Honda? I have a 2009 Honda accord ex and it's great!!! Mabe u should really get a 2010 Honda accord! I here from friends it's a hell of a great car!!!!!!
GDOGROOLZ1 1 year ago
will it start and run again after the third key cycle? like you do the first second and third attempt and it starts. then can you turn the key off and turn it back on and crank the engine and will it start and run then. does it only do the third start thing after its sat over night or in the lot at your job or house? fuel pump could be causing this problem. so weak that it takes that long for the fuel to get to the fuel rail but it can maintain fuel pressure enough to run after its to the rail.
txtrcr 1 year ago
could it just have been the battery?
adamlovesbmws 1 year ago
Glad to hear your fine after that accident, scary stuff.
asb81689 1 year ago
this comment is way late, but I know how you feel on the main relay issue. I went to honda and bought one too, felt like a dumbass as well.....cheers bro.
fiftyleven 1 year ago
ignition switch
tkempxxx 1 year ago
@tkempxxx thanks for the suggestion, but that was one of the things I replaced early on, as I also suspected it was the culprit. I never found out what it was because I no longer have this car anymore. Got hit head on by a drunk driver and totaled it. I have a Prelude Si now. Paid in full thanks to that drunk bitch that hit me...
fretwizard420 1 year ago
fuel pump!!!
belnap005 1 year ago 9
did you adjust your timing after doing all of that???
Spetinam 1 year ago
clean the air mass flow with carb cleaner if doesnt work - clean the idle with carb cleaner if its not then the tps is the problem.these are the starting problem pieces. but this is the idle surely he is in the first place for this problem
SuperC20xe 2 years ago
it seems to me like the car isnt getting in no air to mix with the fuel...maby ur intake/ manifold is smashed or messed up from accident...u should do a vid with the cam facing the motor....
greekooo3 2 years ago
Hey thanks for the advice man. But unfortunately since it was totaled, I no longer have the car. And boy do I miss her. Bought a 4th gen Prelude with the money I got for it. Clean as a whistle too.
fretwizard420 2 years ago
1) check hall sensor
2) before ignition, connect the pressure gauge on the fuel line and check the fuel line pressure. compare the stock value that you can ask to the service.
and or
3) at night, connect the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line, run the engine, then stop engine, note the pressure and leave the car. at morning, if the pressure lower then %10, your fuel pump or the line damaged.
zut63 2 years ago
3rd time's the charm!!
1englandnigga 2 years ago
Perhaps fuel pump. also wouldn't hurt to throw in some injector cleaner. And i'd seafoam it while your at it.
ShaTR2 2 years ago
Intersting that it worked with no problems after being totalled. Well, to help you save time and money in the future i'll reply anyway. I noticed your check engine light is on. The first thing I would have done is check for engine codes.
SirCoolness 2 years ago
Your model car should have a blue connector with two holes on the drivers side under the dash. Use a paper clip to connect the two holes and the "check engine light" will start flashing. Long flash =10 and short flash= 1. The result is your code and you can find out what it means usually with a repair manual or by contacting a dealer. (google helps too)
I would say that a sensor was failing or perhaps idle control
SirCoolness 2 years ago
yea id prob say x2 on sensor or idle control what does the car do when its cold does it take it more then three tries ?
angelsnake13 2 years ago
HONDA = Most reliable, longest lasting cars, trucks, vans, and suv'`s on the road.
Faztlan 2 years ago 9
i would have to disagree...seeing as my family has owned4 honda's....... it all depends on the car.......maintenance etc.....98 civic...90 integra... 96 civic..05 civic....mind you i have owned a ford/....omg a ford yes a ford...and has out lasted all except the 05 civic due to the civic was purchased new and my mustang was purchased used...both 05 and my stang are still going..its a race to see who outlast who ahaha..and my mustang has seen nitrous and the drag strip tones of times...
greekooo3 2 years ago
That's VERY true. A car is only as good as the care it's given. If you take care of it like shit, then you'll have a shit car. If you take great care of it, then you'll have a great car! Honda does have a GREAT rep, and a little better build quality in my opinion than most American cars, but I've also seen American cars get run through the shitter and still keep on going. Just remember one thing....CHANGE YA DAMN OIL!!!! Ha ha
fretwizard420 2 years ago
agreed....enjoy the lude...h22?
greekooo3 2 years ago
ignition switch
nicholasxiong 2 years ago
check the starter
NEBLEEKS 2 years ago
Fuel lines (blockage or very likely twist/crush on feed or perhaps return pipe) maybe fuel pump? Follow fuel lines back from engine to tank & look for corrosion, pinches, crushes etc.
Then follow wiring from fuel pump & look for similar. Just a thought.
Honda is a ripoff!! Nice reliable cars til they break then you gotta pay big time (or on older cars most likely scrap! like mine soon)
Hope you get it fixed
JarkMeoff 2 years ago
This sounds very similar to what a friend went through with his 99' Grand Cherokee. The 3x to start for him was something he dealt with for 6 months until he finally decided to change his fuel pump. He used to say that he'd have to turn the key 2x in order for enough fuel to be in the fuel line, and usually the 3x it would suffice to start the car. It may be irrelevant but check your fuel line with a fuel pressure meter. During your first 2 attempts.
sinoamerica 2 years ago
change the computer it control the engine and trany might b starting not sure but check it it is located on passenger side under dash if u move carpet u wil see
hamadishaq 2 years ago
I was going to say the same thing this sounded more like a computer glitch of some kind.
also this is for everyone don't forget every time you turn the key off then on the cars computer reboots from scratch. also always let the car warm up or better yet listen to the engine when it tones down the car is ready to be driven.
orangie84 1 year ago
before that the computer is still resetting and if you just jump in and drive off you can cause the computer to crash and then create huge computer problems (like this one) even if the car is already hot always start it and then DO NOT touch the gas peddle until the car tones down (or wait for around a minuet)
orangie84 1 year ago
@orangie84 Thanks for the suggestion, but I no longer have this car. Got slammed head on by some drunk woman, and totaled it. I have a Prelude Si now.
fretwizard420 1 year ago
Does it do that when the mechanic looks at it? If not, try to get them to start it cold.
clete99 2 years ago
They've seen it. And most say it's "some sort of electrical problem". But I've already replaced almost every piece of my ignition system. I just don't want to spend thousands at a Honda dealership getting a tech to fix it if I don't have to.
fretwizard420 2 years ago