Mahalo John, I am off to the garage to change the bearings (finally).
Yeah, I heard that method for american cars (tightening), didn't like that....glad I understood what you are saying here....two things have to occur simultaneously (end-float and torque).
..I think this is the cause of my steering wheel shimmy when accelerating to 50mph. The right one was good but the left one had no tension on the nut and the outer bearing was obviously beat up. New bearings coming for both sides. Thanks for the demo.
Excellent explanation on both the how and why. Even my own MG-garage did not use the shims as they should, but tightened and then slackened the central wheelnut, despite having the proper shims in store! This matter about greasing was new to me: I did not find it in manuals elsewhere. Finding the exact end-float in combination with the prescribed torque range (40-70 lbft) and position of the splitpin takes some trying for amateurs like me. Putting the wheel on and shaking it helps testing.
Great video. I dont have an MG yet but Im definitely getting one! They look great to work on. I had to laugh when you removed the castle nut and said "Thats easy!". It sure isn't when its on the car and you find yourself swinging out of the breaker bar or the split pin breaks! LOL.
This video is awesome in that it provides the details required to actually do the job; details that are not mentioned in the repair manual. Not only the details but the reason as well.
How about one for SU fuel pump rebuilding? Or windshield rubber replacement? Why or how that rectangular thing on the dash with a red light is and does? How to rebuild the distributor, or free the mechanical advance? How to replace the thrust washers in a tube type axle?
Awesome video! You say this is for the MGB. This video would be more useful to more people if you say what other models it applies to. MGA the same? TD? Thanks for the great video. Keep 'em coming!
Mahalo John, I am off to the garage to change the bearings (finally).
Yeah, I heard that method for american cars (tightening), didn't like that....glad I understood what you are saying here....two things have to occur simultaneously (end-float and torque).
UnderseaCaveman 1 month ago
Just what I was looking for
qboonen 2 months ago
Thank you, John. Very well done.
GrotrianSeiler 5 months ago
..I think this is the cause of my steering wheel shimmy when accelerating to 50mph. The right one was good but the left one had no tension on the nut and the outer bearing was obviously beat up. New bearings coming for both sides. Thanks for the demo.
vachief 7 months ago
Excellent.
scotjack 10 months ago
Thanks! Love these videos
wmaher2 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
This is really helpful John. Thanks very much from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
This is really helpful John. Thanks very much from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
John - this is excellent - especially the bit about needing to grease the outer bearing only. Thanks from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
John - this is excellent - especially the bit about needing to grease the outer bearing only. Thanks from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
John - this is excellent - especially the bit about needing to grease the outer bearing only. Thanks from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
John - this is excellent - especially the bit about needing to grease the outer bearing only. Thanks from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
John - this is excellent - especially the bit about needing to grease the outer bearing only. Thanks from the UK.
raelsbrotherjohn 1 year ago
Just what I needed to know.
Thank you.
gschultz545 2 years ago 2
Excellent explanation on both the how and why. Even my own MG-garage did not use the shims as they should, but tightened and then slackened the central wheelnut, despite having the proper shims in store! This matter about greasing was new to me: I did not find it in manuals elsewhere. Finding the exact end-float in combination with the prescribed torque range (40-70 lbft) and position of the splitpin takes some trying for amateurs like me. Putting the wheel on and shaking it helps testing.
donthuis 2 years ago
..I agree..I did it the old American way...(.which is proper for those cars) there are a lot of engineering differences...I learned something today.
vachief 2 years ago
This is a great video, I wish more people like you contributed this kind of useful information.
Thanks!
flamerail 3 years ago
Clever and nice done vid. Sadly my Midget doesnt have those shims to set the preload!
MorrisMinorAustria 3 years ago
Explains the shim/spacer reason so clearly.
losmorob 3 years ago
Great video. I dont have an MG yet but Im definitely getting one! They look great to work on. I had to laugh when you removed the castle nut and said "Thats easy!". It sure isn't when its on the car and you find yourself swinging out of the breaker bar or the split pin breaks! LOL.
Live1052 3 years ago
AMEN TO THAT
skatepunk2242 3 years ago
This video is awesome in that it provides the details required to actually do the job; details that are not mentioned in the repair manual. Not only the details but the reason as well.
hrsgroup 4 years ago
How about one for SU fuel pump rebuilding? Or windshield rubber replacement? Why or how that rectangular thing on the dash with a red light is and does? How to rebuild the distributor, or free the mechanical advance? How to replace the thrust washers in a tube type axle?
orbassasin 4 years ago
Awesome video! You say this is for the MGB. This video would be more useful to more people if you say what other models it applies to. MGA the same? TD? Thanks for the great video. Keep 'em coming!
strovato 4 years ago
Phenomenal! I look forward to seeing more videos as I will be applying this to my MGB GT too.
What bearing grease do you use?
BikerSteve1 4 years ago