Added: 11 months ago
From: bikebook
Views: 55,136
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  • hi there, great video.

    quick question, the grease you are using is it copper or lithium based?

  • @riskprocessor You should be fine with any bike grease if you do this regulary. I usually use White grease form Morotex which is lithium based.

  • thanks

  • Those are MACHINE BEARINGS! wow :O :O

  • Nicely done video... Done that several weeks ago...same way as you did. Easy and fast to do...

  • Nice guide, is going to be helpful this weekend, and I didn't mind the music whatsoever

  • You should remove the disc, to make sure it does not get any grease.

  • @i010524 Yes, you could but we clean everything at the end anyhow.

  • Great Work

    Aproxy.org

    

  • The music gives me a headache.

  • @carolzpix Turn your volume down ;)

  • @bikebook ..duh!! Blonde here. lol

  • Fantastic video. But I found out that "finger tightening" the bearing preload is tight until you install it on the bike and you can feel it being loose. I had to use a wrench and go ever so slightly PAST what your finger can do. It feels runn, but once you tighten down the securing nut it's fine.

  • How do you stop the right outside nut coming loose (i.e. the drive-side serated nut).

    Are you supposed to tighten really tight against the right Hand Cone (drive side) before threading shaft through and then doing non-drive side?

  • What a waste of excellent filming, WHY no commentary. I don't want to listen to music on servicing videos. Message to Bikebook- please add commentary.

  • I like good close ups :]. At least now I have an idea, how the process looks BEFORE starting :D.

  • Look and my video and you will see what I'm talking about in reference to my comment

  • Got a question: I have a next power x 26" mountain bike. It is my transportation and yesterday I replaced the bearings in the front axle and it will free spin forever but I tried the same with my rear hub as I already did the bottom bracket but the rear wheel spins foe about 20 seconds before stopping. On the cassette side of the hub are there any bearings that I can regressed and replace? I can't get the plastic(?) Thing that the cassette sits on. Any feedback please PM me thanks!

  • This isn't freehub body, this is a video on how to overhaul and adjust a rear hub. The freehub body is the part that the cassette sits on- you may want to change the title as this is not accurate. Thanks!

  • @megbikes Done. Thanks!

  • Thanks for the great video. Changed my freehub body and lubricated...now as good as new. Would not have known how to go about it without this video, Thanks you.

  • You should remove that rotor before doing this it can get messy and you might contaminate it. Not saying your couldn't do it without contaminating the rotor, its just more work making sure you don't than just taking it off and putting it back on. Also, you'll want to use a light weight grease like Slick honey to reduce rolling resistance.

  • Thank you for the clear presentation. So many of these types of videos look like they were filmed in a dungeon using a brick as a camera.

  • @opmike343 You are welcome :)

  • You can use a 10mm allen key to remove the freehub in the ones I've seen - no special tool needed

  • @dhollm and @brianwilburn Thanks for info.

  • if the inside cone?-cup? get problem then is replaceable?

    if yes, how? if no.......

  • fantastico!!! gracias amigo

  • yo i need your help :

    i ve got the same wheel shimano but the cassette is spining in its plays its almost like not connected with the hub and basically when i pedal nothing happens because it spins in its place

  • @THEKINGBG1 look at 1:55 you should probably remove the freewheel body. There are some pins inside. Check them out and this should solve your problem.

  • @bikebook k, thanks for the advice and time appreciate it.

  • you can just use a 10 or 12 mm allen key to remove the hub.

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