@authmaax Honda Fuel trims adjust on a Fuel/Ignition Map, the stock o2 was open loop and I am currently running with the o2 sensor completely off the "ecu" not "pcm" this is a honda not some dodge. The tensioner was set to torque specs and never had a problem doing this on many single cams. ;) This specific car was running Turbo Edit, our obd1 cars run Crome or Uberdata or Hondata.
@radair86 "The tensioner was set to torque specs..."
but you should rotate de crackshaft until the cam shaft advances 3 teeths for a new belt and 1 and something for a used (already streched belt)... before torquing to spec...
ideia is that any tune goes better if the belt is always absolutely streched.. (does not vibrate at all)
the tensioner removes slack on the water-pump/tensioner side of the belt but not on the other side where the belt goes from the can gear pulley to the crankshaft pulley if the crankshaft is not rotated at least 20º (degrees) conterclockwise in the case the engine is the d16 engine.
no habla.. hahah
i speak english every day... "almost..." but yeah,,, not 100% correct ..
@authmaax Yup, I have done this a few times. There is a alignment mark and it actually moves a few degree's when torquing the d16 if I am correct? I normally just align the sprocket notch behind the crank pulley with the oil pump and so on...
the tensioner removes slack on the water-pump/tensioner side of the belt but not on the other side where the belt goes from the can gear pulley to the crankshaft pulley if the crankshaft is not rotated at least 20º (degrees) conterclockwise in the case the engine is the d16 engine.
no habla.. hahah
i speak english every day... "almost..." but yeah,,, not 100% correct ..
lol. Fine, fine. I got quite a bit of cash into my eg hatch. I will post the "painted" valve cover from it. That crx looked hideous and I liked wasting v8's in it. I didn't want them to expect much horsepower, which it didn't have very much in the first place. ;) If you look up any sic918.com videos, my hatch will be in those...
ooo. i'm goin to call them guys and find out. i want to tune my ecu for bolt on parts and turbo later when i could afford it. savin up to get one lol.
I know they have a basemap for my crx and I can tune it depending on aftermarket parts such as turbo or individual throttle bodies or vtec. It's the pm6 ecu.
ooo thanx for the info. i've been trying to find answer for ecu tuning. man hondata but its too expensive and i dont know if they do obo. iknow jet chip for sure does for 300 plus shippin and handling
Tuning the ecu is the next thing on my list as well, Xenocron makes a kit and includes chips and a Data Logging USB Cable that is needed and you can Download TurboEdit for free to chip your Ecu. It's around 50 Bucks compared to Hondata's 500+ Dollars. It's does not have on the road tuning but I would not feel safe doing changes while the motor is turning anyways.
hey Radair86. sorry to reply late man. well sorry about that. my throttle body is actually a 62 overbored from polar bear tuning on ebay. i had to clear that up since i forgot what i was postin here.
well about the TB that is 55mm to 62mm. yeah i did really notice the torque for the throttle body but feel like i need my ecu tuned though since i'm adding bolt on parts over the summer.
On the stock cam you will not see any gains in the negatives but if you advance a few degrees or keep it at zero you should see a small gain. Use retard on more aggressive cams. That's a huge Throttle Body dr3amboi I bet you get good torque off the line.
wow you have exact same setup as me but i'm puttin couple more stuff to my engine later on this year around winter time. soo did you set it to adv +2 degrees? i did notice the increase on the adv but it give you less torque for the high rpms. when i set it to -5 thats retardin the cams. i didnt notice a increase and it seem like my car was slower lol. well does that answer anybody question about cam gear? mine is a stock internal by the way. i have a msd box in there with the 64mm overbored TB
We noticed a slight gain in throttle response with a stock camshaft and we have not Dyno Tested yet or Ran the 1320. My License is Currently Suspended.
Comment removed
authmaax 3 months ago
Comment removed
authmaax 3 months ago
that loose tension in the timming belt will mess up with the ecm fuel trims if you drive with closed loop stock 02 sensor
authmaax 3 months ago
@authmaax Honda Fuel trims adjust on a Fuel/Ignition Map, the stock o2 was open loop and I am currently running with the o2 sensor completely off the "ecu" not "pcm" this is a honda not some dodge. The tensioner was set to torque specs and never had a problem doing this on many single cams. ;) This specific car was running Turbo Edit, our obd1 cars run Crome or Uberdata or Hondata.
radair86 3 months ago
@radair86 "The tensioner was set to torque specs..."
but you should rotate de crackshaft until the cam shaft advances 3 teeths for a new belt and 1 and something for a used (already streched belt)... before torquing to spec...
ideia is that any tune goes better if the belt is always absolutely streched.. (does not vibrate at all)
authmaax 3 months ago
@authmaax What's "de crackshaft and cam shaft teeths? ideia? hmmm... No habla. I've built many, thanks for the advice though.
radair86 3 months ago
@radair86 de = the...
the tensioner removes slack on the water-pump/tensioner side of the belt but not on the other side where the belt goes from the can gear pulley to the crankshaft pulley if the crankshaft is not rotated at least 20º (degrees) conterclockwise in the case the engine is the d16 engine.
no habla.. hahah
i speak english every day... "almost..." but yeah,,, not 100% correct ..
"give me some slack on that, ok?" lol
authmaax 3 months ago
@authmaax Yup, I have done this a few times. There is a alignment mark and it actually moves a few degree's when torquing the d16 if I am correct? I normally just align the sprocket notch behind the crank pulley with the oil pump and so on...
radair86 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@radair86 "de" .. i meant "the" ...
the tensioner removes slack on the water-pump/tensioner side of the belt but not on the other side where the belt goes from the can gear pulley to the crankshaft pulley if the crankshaft is not rotated at least 20º (degrees) conterclockwise in the case the engine is the d16 engine.
no habla.. hahah
i speak english every day... "almost..." but yeah,,, not 100% correct ..
"give me some slack on that, ok?" lol
authmaax 3 months ago
lol. Fine, fine. I got quite a bit of cash into my eg hatch. I will post the "painted" valve cover from it. That crx looked hideous and I liked wasting v8's in it. I didn't want them to expect much horsepower, which it didn't have very much in the first place. ;) If you look up any sic918.com videos, my hatch will be in those...
radair86 8 months ago
paint the valve cover?! I'll ask my sister to paint it after she is done painting her nails.
localvic 8 months ago
@localvic TRUE DAT! :P
radair86 8 months ago
Um. No, I would rather spend my money making a car faster. Not prettier.
radair86 1 year ago
It wierd you can afford the header and cam gear but cant paint the valve cover
Brendon00000 1 year ago
eBay. $80
radair86 1 year ago
Where did you get the radiator?
Brendon00000 1 year ago
ooo. i'm goin to call them guys and find out. i want to tune my ecu for bolt on parts and turbo later when i could afford it. savin up to get one lol.
dr3amboi 2 years ago
I know they have a basemap for my crx and I can tune it depending on aftermarket parts such as turbo or individual throttle bodies or vtec. It's the pm6 ecu.
radair86 2 years ago
ooo thanx for the info. i've been trying to find answer for ecu tuning. man hondata but its too expensive and i dont know if they do obo. iknow jet chip for sure does for 300 plus shippin and handling
dr3amboi 2 years ago
Tuning the ecu is the next thing on my list as well, Xenocron makes a kit and includes chips and a Data Logging USB Cable that is needed and you can Download TurboEdit for free to chip your Ecu. It's around 50 Bucks compared to Hondata's 500+ Dollars. It's does not have on the road tuning but I would not feel safe doing changes while the motor is turning anyways.
radair86 2 years ago
hey Radair86. sorry to reply late man. well sorry about that. my throttle body is actually a 62 overbored from polar bear tuning on ebay. i had to clear that up since i forgot what i was postin here.
well about the TB that is 55mm to 62mm. yeah i did really notice the torque for the throttle body but feel like i need my ecu tuned though since i'm adding bolt on parts over the summer.
dr3amboi 2 years ago
On the stock cam you will not see any gains in the negatives but if you advance a few degrees or keep it at zero you should see a small gain. Use retard on more aggressive cams. That's a huge Throttle Body dr3amboi I bet you get good torque off the line.
radair86 2 years ago
wow you have exact same setup as me but i'm puttin couple more stuff to my engine later on this year around winter time. soo did you set it to adv +2 degrees? i did notice the increase on the adv but it give you less torque for the high rpms. when i set it to -5 thats retardin the cams. i didnt notice a increase and it seem like my car was slower lol. well does that answer anybody question about cam gear? mine is a stock internal by the way. i have a msd box in there with the 64mm overbored TB
dr3amboi 2 years ago
We noticed a slight gain in throttle response with a stock camshaft and we have not Dyno Tested yet or Ran the 1320. My License is Currently Suspended.
radair86 2 years ago
Okay, is that on the stock Cam, and is it still set on 0, and did you notice an increase in HP/TQ even with the Cam Gear still set at 0???
159002 2 years ago