Thanks for posting this vid. It saved me! Your vid is the only instruction I've seen that mentioned to remove the entire chain tensioner. Several others I've seen mention you only need to remove the center bolt and spring. On my 03, I discovered the entire tensioner must be removed before there was enough slack in chain to get the cam caps back on. I wonder if different model years had different tensioner designs?
Abyss of doom is a good name. I've dropped the small chain guide bolt down it before and the magnetic wand I had was too wide to fit. A small magnetic wand (1/4 inch or smaller) is important to my peace of mind now.
(This was on an EX250 which thankfully doesn't use shims anymore.)
What you DID show was really great, but you left out a few things which confused me
The Cam Tensioner. Why did you play with that, just so you could show it wiggles? Well you took out the bolt, and the spring, but then what? Obviously you put it back, but what about the thing you were moving in and out, what is that all about?
Also, Cam Lobes... One had arrows on there, what is that about? do I care?
Hey, I just wanted to say thank you. I followed your tutorials on how to do the doohickey and valve change with great success. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
I'm coming up to 15,000 miles on my '09. I'm planning a day of valve checking, doohickey doing, and am thinking of the 685 kit as well. Should I do all that in one weekend of wrenching, or spread out the fun?
I'd probably spread out the fun. My reasoning is that if you do it all at once and the bike doesn't work, you have no idea which change caused the malfunction. If you spread it out and ride between each mod, then you do something and the bike doesn't work, you have a good starting point for troubleshooting.
I've seen people do the valve adjustment and not actually remove the cams, just take the bolts out and exchange the shims that way. That would seem to avoid issues of misaligning the cams when they are re-installed. Could you have done it that way too?
@hedlundk Yes. That's how I did it last time and it was much easier that taking the cams off. But still check the cam alignment afterward - couldn't hurt.
Thanks very much for doing this demo - I will be using it in the near future. On a side note, this is WAY easier on an XR650L for anyone who is deciding between the two bikes! Just search for "xr650 valve" and you will see what I mean.
I took today off from work to do the job, but got cold feet and goofed off instead.
What are the odds of doing a job this intensive under a carport and not ending up wishing to have just forked over the cash and let the Kaw experts do it? (If you tell me I'm wise for wasting a day by not doing it, I'll be fine with that.:-)
I actually had the small and shorter chain guide bolt fall into the abyss. I was afraid I wasn't ever able to get it back but luckily I was able to do so with a magnet antenna.
Did you say, "the abyss of doom" at 1:00? That's good! Lol! I'm a-gonna do the job myself soon to save some bucks. I sure hope like heck that my low IQ can handle the job, yikes! Does one need any special tools?
Thanks for an informative video. During the adjustment you mentioned the spec of .004". Did the manual give a range such as .003"-.005" or does it give an exact spec of .004" and do the shims come in increments of .001"?
The Clymer gives a range of .10 - .20 mm (.004 - .008 in) for the intake and .15 - .25 mm (.006 - .010 in) for the exhaust. Set them to the loose end of the range; as close to the bigger number as possible without going over.
why didn't you check the clearance before dis assembly to determine what shim you need....??? makes no sense just more work for your self...you an MMI student or something
I´m adjusting valves in this moment. If I put T mark up, cams point into and arrows point de back. There is a mark, 180º form T mark. If I put that mark, everythig ok. Is this normal?
I saw the IAFF sticker on your fairing-where do you work? I'm in Providence Rhode Island. I haven't purchased my KLR yet,but when I do I'll be viewing these great videos again. Cheers
The sticker is actually on there because my step-dad works for a Fire Department in the Pacific Northwest (that's as specific as I'm comfortable saying on the open internet).
well i like this video when i got the 09 the dealer said baby it for 60 miles then ride it like i stole it ,i changed oil at 60 500 and 1500 which is when the shop person ask me about the valves sure i could have read the owners book, but it was running so tight lol anyway with 8200 on it it needs them checked so this video helps heaps thanks my last bike as an interceptor 84 1000 i put 38000 on it in 2 yrs but i like this klr best
I will need to perform a job like this on an '81 Suzuki GS 850G. This is one project that I have avoided (due to fear). I think I can get my way through it now that I have seen it first hand. It is so much more helpful to see it done, rather than try to picture the process and its steps from a book or manual. Thanks again. Hope to see more of these videos posted soon!!
Very informative and clear. This is a great video! If you check with the feeler gauge (still not sure how that is done?) and the gap is still off, how is that then adjusted?
You would readjust the valves the same way that you initially adjusted them. The same method to figure out what shim you need, though it will most likely (hopefully) be the next shim size.
For the feeler gauge, if you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement.
wow, watching this video makes me feel better and know than the inside of my engine, or even thinking about working on it, is not as scary as i think it is....do i need to do my valves when i hear popping when i downshift????????? thanks dude you ROCK
You have to remove the tensioner to reset it. While you can remove the shims by the short cut described, it is not something recommended for a novice or first time, as the Clymer manual is intended for.
I waited to long to do mine, had one tight and others out-of-spec. I made a bit of a guess, valve just a bit tight, none of the other original shims were smaller, so I went smaller by the full valve clearance.
okay with what I understand u took off the old shims and put in new ones? If this is the case, that doesn't mean that once you put the new shims together the clearance would be on spec. Indeed u have to check the clerance and replace the shims with a bigger or smaller shim to make the difference.Exam if you mesure(read) the shim and its .25 shim with a clearance space .04+ and spec requrm. are .17-.25 u'd replace that shim with a bigger shim exmp .30 to make up the space.
Great Video and thanks for doing it. I just did mine and they're now "slappy and happy". The only concern I had was accurately trying to determine the proper feeler gauge resistance. In the video it's mentioned as only a "slight resistance"... Well, that judgment of resistance can be very subjective. With a resistance window between .001in and .003in, I fear that I could have gone .001 over both, the intake and exhaust *max* ranges when trying to stay on the high side. Bike runs good though!
True indeed. However, in my defense, I was following the Clymer instructions. Since it was my first valve adjustment on anything, I figured it's better to follow the directions given than to go my own route.
When I do the valves again, I'll post the short-cut.
Yeah I understand that part but what confused me was how the tolerances were getting tighter with wear. First thought was that the cam shaft would wear the shims leading to lower tolerance.
After some thought though I realized that the valve seat and the valve face wearing would lead to the tighter tolerances. Which also explains why they need checked at 600 mi since the valves need to seat.
The video is correct. Loose valves are happy valves. I won't go into the whole explanation ......google "Why adjust intake and exaust valves". If a valve is too tight it won't seat completely or for a shorter time than it should. When the valve is seated besides sealing it is dissappating heat. If the valve isn't able to get rid of excess heat ,it warps, leading to other bad stuff....hope this helps.
haha i like the abyss of doom. its very true though. great little bike to learn that kinda thing on. i just did the valves on a 1982 750 nighthawk that has 16 valves. same thing just with more valves and a separate cam chain/tensioner for the rear cam. your video helped out a little.
Great video, I wish I could see you take everything apart getting to where the valves are. Great suggestions of putting paper to catch bolts if they fall out
Thanks for the vids. I am now more than ready to tackle my own valves. I think I'll go ahead and remove the sparkplug when to make spinning the engine that much easier, though.
I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove the spark plug. I don't know why. If you do, use some compressed air or something to get the dirt and gravel out from around the plug or all that crap will fall in your engine. Then you'll have to take it more apart that you probably wan to.
And it's really isn't that hard to turn over with the plug in it.
Indeed. Spark plug should be removed to make it easier to turn. In your demo, you overshot TDC and had to continue to spin it one more time. That's why- if it were easier to turn you wouldn't have overshot it.
Good advice to clean around the spark plug area before you remove it so dirt won't fall in. This applies every time you remove any sparkplug in any vehicle.
You did go out of your way to caution your viewers to not remove the plug. This is incorrect. Great demo nonetheless. Thanks!
Funny you should say that. I thought for sure I saw somewhere in a manual (Clymer or Owners) that you aren't supposed to remove the spark plug for this. As I was taping this, I thought it was kind of odd, since it would be easier to turn the engine over. I just checked the Clymer and it didn't mention the spark plug. I don't have an Owner's Manual around to check that, if the valve adjustment is in there.
We don't tell you NOT to remove it. However, it is not necessary. Does it make it easier to turn the engine, obviously. But do you want the plug out when you remove the cylinder head cover or put it back on? I wouldn't as there is to much of a chance of parts or debris falling into the cylinder. If you go slow nearing TDC, it will not roll past.
Thanks for posting this vid. It saved me! Your vid is the only instruction I've seen that mentioned to remove the entire chain tensioner. Several others I've seen mention you only need to remove the center bolt and spring. On my 03, I discovered the entire tensioner must be removed before there was enough slack in chain to get the cam caps back on. I wonder if different model years had different tensioner designs?
MrJimbobarino 4 months ago
Comment removed
MrJimbobarino 4 months ago
Abyss of doom is a good name. I've dropped the small chain guide bolt down it before and the magnetic wand I had was too wide to fit. A small magnetic wand (1/4 inch or smaller) is important to my peace of mind now.
(This was on an EX250 which thankfully doesn't use shims anymore.)
Lichlord 5 months ago
Thanks again...
What you DID show was really great, but you left out a few things which confused me
The Cam Tensioner. Why did you play with that, just so you could show it wiggles? Well you took out the bolt, and the spring, but then what? Obviously you put it back, but what about the thing you were moving in and out, what is that all about?
Also, Cam Lobes... One had arrows on there, what is that about? do I care?
Thanks for the great info!
(yes I did read the full description too.)
ChaplainC 6 months ago
Anyone offer a video on getting the head off? Is it just the tank which needs removing or the electrics and all?
cawoodm 9 months ago
Great job and very clear. Thank you for taking the time to explain!!
treemonkey1994 10 months ago
Hey, I just wanted to say thank you. I followed your tutorials on how to do the doohickey and valve change with great success. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
OneDudeProductions 10 months ago
I'm coming up to 15,000 miles on my '09. I'm planning a day of valve checking, doohickey doing, and am thinking of the 685 kit as well. Should I do all that in one weekend of wrenching, or spread out the fun?
dahveed284 11 months ago
I'd probably spread out the fun. My reasoning is that if you do it all at once and the bike doesn't work, you have no idea which change caused the malfunction. If you spread it out and ride between each mod, then you do something and the bike doesn't work, you have a good starting point for troubleshooting.
ghotioutofh2o 11 months ago
good job there what i like to see you do is carburator clean up and and installation if you would please i really appriciate that on this bike thanks
raindrop132 11 months ago
I've seen people do the valve adjustment and not actually remove the cams, just take the bolts out and exchange the shims that way. That would seem to avoid issues of misaligning the cams when they are re-installed. Could you have done it that way too?
hedlundk 11 months ago
@hedlundk Yes. That's how I did it last time and it was much easier that taking the cams off. But still check the cam alignment afterward - couldn't hurt.
ghotioutofh2o 11 months ago
holly shit big ass shims...
YehItsMyCRF 1 year ago
Thanks very much for doing this demo - I will be using it in the near future. On a side note, this is WAY easier on an XR650L for anyone who is deciding between the two bikes! Just search for "xr650 valve" and you will see what I mean.
dubripple 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i currently have 12000 miles on my 06 klr650, i havent done the doohickey yet , should i still do this bolt adjustment?
DecaPierce 1 year ago
I took today off from work to do the job, but got cold feet and goofed off instead.
What are the odds of doing a job this intensive under a carport and not ending up wishing to have just forked over the cash and let the Kaw experts do it? (If you tell me I'm wise for wasting a day by not doing it, I'll be fine with that.:-)
guyNbluejeans 1 year ago
do the hot cams raise your redline?
DecaPierce 1 year ago
Why not just use the shim tool to hold down the valva? Motion pro sells them for 20 bucks , makes the job about 15 mnutes long.
MrMotortech 1 year ago
Because that's $20 that I won't have later.
ghotioutofh2o 1 year ago
@MrMotortech Yea but you can charge that to others later and make more money
MrMotortech 1 year ago
also. if you turning whole engine-just remove the spark plug- no compression no force required!
antoshapink 1 year ago
@antoshapink you still have the force of the valve spring
MrMotortech 1 year ago
I actually had the small and shorter chain guide bolt fall into the abyss. I was afraid I wasn't ever able to get it back but luckily I was able to do so with a magnet antenna.
nagrain 1 year ago
Did you say, "the abyss of doom" at 1:00? That's good! Lol! I'm a-gonna do the job myself soon to save some bucks. I sure hope like heck that my low IQ can handle the job, yikes! Does one need any special tools?
guyNbluejeans 1 year ago
Yes, I did say that... if you drop something down there, you're doomed! Until you get it back, which very well may take some work.
The tools one will need are all listed in the video description.
ghotioutofh2o 1 year ago
@ghotioutofh2o Thanks! I shall return to this vid when I get ready to do the job!:-)
guyNbluejeans 1 year ago
Thanks for the great info
soaringman 1 year ago
Great job!
MrCrf230f 1 year ago
looking for part number for Cam Caps if you can help out :)
thecosmichippo 1 year ago
Very helpful in giving me the confidence to do my own valve adjustment! Thank you!
vtprisonco 1 year ago
Thanks for an informative video. During the adjustment you mentioned the spec of .004". Did the manual give a range such as .003"-.005" or does it give an exact spec of .004" and do the shims come in increments of .001"?
sandpiper9988 2 years ago
The Clymer gives a range of .10 - .20 mm (.004 - .008 in) for the intake and .15 - .25 mm (.006 - .010 in) for the exhaust. Set them to the loose end of the range; as close to the bigger number as possible without going over.
ghotioutofh2o 1 year ago
Comment removed
sandpiper9988 2 years ago
why didn't you check the clearance before dis assembly to determine what shim you need....??? makes no sense just more work for your self...you an MMI student or something
russ33201 2 years ago
I´m adjusting valves in this moment. If I put T mark up, cams point into and arrows point de back. There is a mark, 180º form T mark. If I put that mark, everythig ok. Is this normal?
feretromc 2 years ago
From the T mark up and the cam lobes pointing in, spin the crank over 360 degrees - one complete revolution. This should set things up right.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
THANKS!!! WORKING OK!!!
feretromc 2 years ago
:-)
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
I saw the IAFF sticker on your fairing-where do you work? I'm in Providence Rhode Island. I haven't purchased my KLR yet,but when I do I'll be viewing these great videos again. Cheers
leftystrat62 2 years ago
The sticker is actually on there because my step-dad works for a Fire Department in the Pacific Northwest (that's as specific as I'm comfortable saying on the open internet).
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
well i like this video when i got the 09 the dealer said baby it for 60 miles then ride it like i stole it ,i changed oil at 60 500 and 1500 which is when the shop person ask me about the valves sure i could have read the owners book, but it was running so tight lol anyway with 8200 on it it needs them checked so this video helps heaps thanks my last bike as an interceptor 84 1000 i put 38000 on it in 2 yrs but i like this klr best
09klr650fan 2 years ago
Gotcha! Thanks
I will need to perform a job like this on an '81 Suzuki GS 850G. This is one project that I have avoided (due to fear). I think I can get my way through it now that I have seen it first hand. It is so much more helpful to see it done, rather than try to picture the process and its steps from a book or manual. Thanks again. Hope to see more of these videos posted soon!!
AlbinVega1865 2 years ago
Very informative and clear. This is a great video! If you check with the feeler gauge (still not sure how that is done?) and the gap is still off, how is that then adjusted?
AlbinVega1865 2 years ago
You would readjust the valves the same way that you initially adjusted them. The same method to figure out what shim you need, though it will most likely (hopefully) be the next shim size.
For the feeler gauge, if you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
Nice!!!!!!! you rock!
estrelladelnorte1308 2 years ago
interesting...i will pour in some more of the old seafoam, see what happens. thanks again
MikSane 2 years ago
No problem.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
wow, watching this video makes me feel better and know than the inside of my engine, or even thinking about working on it, is not as scary as i think it is....do i need to do my valves when i hear popping when i downshift????????? thanks dude you ROCK
MikSane 2 years ago 2
It depends. When was the last time the valves were checked or adjusted?
I think that may be more of a carb issue, though.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
That is a pretty darn neat video.
COMB0RICO 2 years ago 2
Wow wish i had the confidence to tear my shit apart.
Im a coward and not a man i take all vehicles to the shop. Im getting a KLR and hope i can get the balls to do shit like this.
Slaschow 2 years ago 2
You have to remove the tensioner to reset it. While you can remove the shims by the short cut described, it is not something recommended for a novice or first time, as the Clymer manual is intended for.
ClymerManuals 2 years ago
I waited to long to do mine, had one tight and others out-of-spec. I made a bit of a guess, valve just a bit tight, none of the other original shims were smaller, so I went smaller by the full valve clearance.
klrbiker 2 years ago
okay with what I understand u took off the old shims and put in new ones? If this is the case, that doesn't mean that once you put the new shims together the clearance would be on spec. Indeed u have to check the clerance and replace the shims with a bigger or smaller shim to make the difference.Exam if you mesure(read) the shim and its .25 shim with a clearance space .04+ and spec requrm. are .17-.25 u'd replace that shim with a bigger shim exmp .30 to make up the space.
Arlind86 2 years ago
Great Video and thanks for doing it. I just did mine and they're now "slappy and happy". The only concern I had was accurately trying to determine the proper feeler gauge resistance. In the video it's mentioned as only a "slight resistance"... Well, that judgment of resistance can be very subjective. With a resistance window between .001in and .003in, I fear that I could have gone .001 over both, the intake and exhaust *max* ranges when trying to stay on the high side. Bike runs good though!
j77768z 2 years ago
I miss the old screw and locknut valve adjustment on my Suzuki Bandit lol. I can deal with this though the KLR is a great ride.
jeepinbanditrider 3 years ago
True indeed. However, in my defense, I was following the Clymer instructions. Since it was my first valve adjustment on anything, I figured it's better to follow the directions given than to go my own route.
When I do the valves again, I'll post the short-cut.
Thanks.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Also it makes sense for the valves to wear faster because they dont reallly receive any oil. Where as the cam is drencehed in oil.
If only the valves and shims wore at the same rate what a wonderfull world it would be.
johnnyspeed101 3 years ago
Yeah I understand that part but what confused me was how the tolerances were getting tighter with wear. First thought was that the cam shaft would wear the shims leading to lower tolerance.
After some thought though I realized that the valve seat and the valve face wearing would lead to the tighter tolerances. Which also explains why they need checked at 600 mi since the valves need to seat.
johnnyspeed101 3 years ago
Im confused why would you want to be on the looser tolerance with the shims. Wouldnt wear make the tolerances looser not tighter.
johnnyspeed101 3 years ago
My THEORY (I'm not sure) is that the valves and seat wear, making them sit higher, and closing the clearance.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
The video is correct. Loose valves are happy valves. I won't go into the whole explanation ......google "Why adjust intake and exaust valves". If a valve is too tight it won't seat completely or for a shorter time than it should. When the valve is seated besides sealing it is dissappating heat. If the valve isn't able to get rid of excess heat ,it warps, leading to other bad stuff....hope this helps.
rickkd6 3 years ago 2
when should you adjust the valves?
spuck1234 3 years ago
When they are out of spec or close to out of spec. The latter is subjective.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
haha i like the abyss of doom. its very true though. great little bike to learn that kinda thing on. i just did the valves on a 1982 750 nighthawk that has 16 valves. same thing just with more valves and a separate cam chain/tensioner for the rear cam. your video helped out a little.
MTXMUGEN 3 years ago
Can you repeat the part about the side cover caps?! I didn't get it!!!!LOL :p
rideswift 3 years ago
Ya know, I'm not really sure myself. :-P
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Nice job. Very helpful.
oparvez 3 years ago
thanks, well done.
epicstove 3 years ago
Thanks, very informative and easy to understand.I don't suppose you know anything about bevel drive Ducati's do you?
Squatmyster 3 years ago
Not really, no.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Great video, I wish I could see you take everything apart getting to where the valves are. Great suggestions of putting paper to catch bolts if they fall out
mgalison 3 years ago
Thanks for the vids. I am now more than ready to tackle my own valves. I think I'll go ahead and remove the sparkplug when to make spinning the engine that much easier, though.
humanills 3 years ago
I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove the spark plug. I don't know why. If you do, use some compressed air or something to get the dirt and gravel out from around the plug or all that crap will fall in your engine. Then you'll have to take it more apart that you probably wan to.
And it's really isn't that hard to turn over with the plug in it.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Indeed. Spark plug should be removed to make it easier to turn. In your demo, you overshot TDC and had to continue to spin it one more time. That's why- if it were easier to turn you wouldn't have overshot it.
Good advice to clean around the spark plug area before you remove it so dirt won't fall in. This applies every time you remove any sparkplug in any vehicle.
You did go out of your way to caution your viewers to not remove the plug. This is incorrect. Great demo nonetheless. Thanks!
elephantcup 2 years ago
Funny you should say that. I thought for sure I saw somewhere in a manual (Clymer or Owners) that you aren't supposed to remove the spark plug for this. As I was taping this, I thought it was kind of odd, since it would be easier to turn the engine over. I just checked the Clymer and it didn't mention the spark plug. I don't have an Owner's Manual around to check that, if the valve adjustment is in there.
Weird.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
We don't tell you NOT to remove it. However, it is not necessary. Does it make it easier to turn the engine, obviously. But do you want the plug out when you remove the cylinder head cover or put it back on? I wouldn't as there is to much of a chance of parts or debris falling into the cylinder. If you go slow nearing TDC, it will not roll past.
ClymerManuals 2 years ago
Kick ass! Now, do you have a video on removing my own ingrown toenails? J/K, my feet are fine. ;-)
musclefixer 3 years ago
Use some pliers and pull really hard.
Or bolt cutters and just remove the whole toe! :-P
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Not a bad idea to through some assembly lube on those cams while turning the engine over to recheck the lash. Thanks for the video.
bicylindrico 3 years ago
Very informative and very much appreciated! Would like to see more vids on anything relating to KLR "how to do". Thanks again.
motodrum1 3 years ago
yet another great video... thank you!!
bklein453 3 years ago