Added: 1 month ago
From: mazda2284
Views: 1,318
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  • Cool!!

  • are you a godzilla fan?

  • @b1gg1eapache hell yes !~

  • i think it works also if you dont have a clamp and just a multi meter (like i), and measure the voltage ac as well as the resistance of the outputs, then just use the formula:

    power (watts) = voltage^2 / resistance. im too lazy to go buy a clamp haha, but good video nontheless!

  • @thekingdonecome the clamp in this video cost me 5.75 $ lol, ebay , its model # is mt87

  • @thekingdonecome You don't know actual resistance because of impedance rise. You need clamp meter to measure accurately. :)

  • I learned something ne thanks mazda!

  • dude do not use the red wires from the CPU thats 5v u need the yellow one thats 12v that may mess up your shit i know how to wire up a amp like this cause i have one in my room

  • @bigdog420024 even at 12 volts it will due a pretty poor job of charging the battery. Look at the output of any typical charger for virtually anything. The output voltage of the charger is typically a few volts higher than the voltage of the battery. An exact voltage match will work but, it's rather inefficient and most batteries will never reach full capacitance.

  • @JonDeth thats why im using a cap between the psu and amp . it saves the life of your psu , otherwise i have a small lawn tractor battery that its full charge resting is only 12.1 volts that i would use with it. but again the cap is better in my opinion in this situation

  • @mazda2284 clever move I was wondering how you prevented the load from switching on the protection circuit. Matched voltages will charge but I know there are a few reasons for using higher voltage. Obviously speed and reaching full capacitance are top two but also the battery will build up tendrils internally at contact points. Like a drain slowly building scum and debris.

    Higher voltages just means it takes longer but can also be used to burn them up and POSSIBLY restore the battery

  • @bigdog420024 the red wire are not being used other than 1 i use as a remote sometimes. the yelllow are 12 volt positive.... accurately ''cuz jondeth is posting'' 11.7 volts 14amps output , the black wires are ground , and the green wire turns on the psu when hooked to the ground .

  • @mazda2284 With some internal tweaks you can run 3 identical pc power supplies in series using the 5v output and depending on the power supplies get up to a 30amp+ powersupply at 15v.

  • thanks for this video lol

  • You need a better camera man... get that youtube money!

  • @NickDaBassGuy yeah i dunno what happened...my cam messed up ... time for a new 1 again....bass destroys cams. ive went through 4 cams so far...

  • nice video

    

  • @reelfish92 thanks !

  • nitto legends hell yeah!!!

  • dont forget to rate , comment and Subscribe ! thanks for watching !

  • oh sorry guys I thought it was the input of the amp :S

  • you did it right brad :)

  • we are still working with DC Voltage...

  • @SuperHddf not at the output of the amp. everything that comes out of an amp is AC.. DC goes in

  • @MrAcuralvr it's also full wave meaning there is no such thing as RMS output just RMS draw from the power supply. Same with a speaker, no such thing as RMS considering it IS the load being carried. If it has nothing to feed power, why rms rate it? Sales gimmick. It has no demands for power it is a passive. It merely has thermal tolerance.

    The only true rating of a speaker and amp is continuous power but, no modern audio company will test equipment properly to tell you. They want it to burn....

  • @JonDeth nope. Rms Is an accurate rating. Just useless for normal car audio because we don't play tones all day long. You just can't count on rms being accurate for music because it is transient and the load is constantly changing. "They want it to burn...." Really because companies hate it when you return products. They wan't it to work for a long time.

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE do you even know what RMS is used to grade?

  • @JonDeth yes its to measure voltage using Root Mean Square on the peak. Which then give you watts with an impedance.

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE that's the wrong answer. I asked if you know what it's used to grade, not the process/formula to generate the RMS data. RMS is just a data set that grades a piece of equipments ability.

    So, what is RMS data actually applied to and why?

    Why do we need this grading?

    If you knew that, you wouldn't be saying it's applicable to passive, load bearing circuit components such as speakers. You carry the sack of potatoes, it does not carry you.....

  • @JonDeth Yes but rms is still the best judge of an amplifier's actual output using its peak voltage without clipping and a set impedance. What would you use then?

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE the true way to grade amps is thermal stability and then give them a continuous rating. This is how the hi-fi industry charging thousands for amps used to do it until RMS became such a killer sales gimmick. If you must maintain 50mph or you blow up and your PEAK is 50mph, once you reach a hill you're dust. So they grade ACTIVE components with RMS for power to spare.

    For the amp, it's a fair rating but for speakers, it's inapplicable.

  • @JonDeth i was talking about amps.

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE fair enough but if you run the amp for 3 hours or 20 minutes at it's manu. rated specs and thermal kicks on, how accurate is your test. Guys clamp their amps, run some sweeps and produce an irrelevant data set. Are you overheating due to the feedback path of the speaker? Is it solely the amps fault? It is of course both but which is more responsible?

    RMS is a good start but we need thermal stability and the FTC should have mandated this YEARS ago Same with spkrs

  • @JonDeth Thats why vc's should have temperature sensors so you can monitor them on your dash to know when you are hurting them or killing them :D

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE One of a million bandaids that will indeed work. We could also have the FTC simply do their job and go after these companies for fraud lol. None of their specs are accurate. A woofer handles say 1000 watts but at what frequency? 1000Hz.

    So what it can handle at 100Hz is of course unknown. They don't even tell us the temp the thermostats kick on at in the amps. All can be figured with the right test equipment, specifically with an oscilloscope and thermometer.

  • @JonDeth I have both but I really don't want to put my only amplifier to the test lol.

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE I do not blame you. I trigger my thermal from time to time but will remedy it this week with a couple fans. I would love to be the first manufacturer that produced gear with thermal tolerance ratings but then, I've also designed a new woofer that should be damn near indestructible.

    Amps?

    If it isn't broken don't fix it. I just want to know their thermal stability.

  • @JonDeth I would love it if you sent me info on your "indestructable sub" :D You should send me a message with details.

  • @BENSYARDSERVICE yeah sure I'll send you all the explicit details right after I hand over a million idea to Sony, Kicker, JL Audio etc.

    Seriously now. Did I get this smart by handing over new technology to strangers?

    I won't even put my diagrams or notes on my computer anymore because in every case that I have, the device or design popped up in the commercial market in about 3 months.....

  • @SuperHddf did you mean the power that comes out of the amp? or in to it? because the input is dc and the out put is ac ... can't see what you meant by the comment...

  • cool.

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