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From: slyirish17
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  • This is an OHV (not the SOHC), so the chance of a timing chain issue is slim to none. The multiple cylinder misfire is probably from the coil pack getting wet, and or bad plugs/wires. People blow problems like this out of proportion, and start crying timing chain, and all sorts of catastrophic mechanical issues. My guess is vacuum leak/sensor = roughness, the tapping = exhaust leak, and the crankshaft position sensor was bumped out of position. I buy these up on CL all the time.

  • You need a new cat to much back pressure

  • replace your coverter's i didnt read all the comments, you have exessive back pressure which is pushing extra exaust into the cyl's which the fuel to air ratio's will be off and CAN cause miss fire's and alot of other issue, but the catalist code should have a dead give away when i see that i hook up the back pressure gauge in an O2 sensor hole and let her rip! but chances are thats part of the issue

  • those 4.0s love to have timing chain tensioner issues. wish they all came w/ the 5.0

  • timing chaaaaaaain

  • timing chain most likely

    happened to me on similar vehicle

  • Fuel pressure regulator

  • More then likely its more then one problem, the knocking sound probably won't be easily fixed but I think you might have an exhaust sensor that might be out. The knocking sound I hate to say is more then likely engine related (bent rod or worse). I think my 97 Ford Explorer had 3 sensors, and the one going behind the engine was a bitch.... Just sayin'

  • My check for fuel tank leaks like down spout or around sending unit. Water is more than likey your problem. Try dry gas like Heat.

  • its ur cats man there cloggd my ranger did the same thing 4.0l v6 right??? but just make sure u gots the wires connected to the right cylinder

  • try your mass airflow sensor

    

  • I have a 2002 ford explore and my truck shakes really bad when I push the gas pedal. Does anyone know y?

  • i have the same thing wrong here. funny, it seems to always, on all explorers with this problem, comes from the passenger side of the engine. its a valve issue that ford overlooked. i didnt want to bench out $1000.00 for the valve replacement so its running rich??....an EFIE did the trick. in your case, get a used motor installed from a junkyard. theyll probably ask for $1000 - $1200 thats a hell of a lot cheaper than fixing the valve then something else goes wrong. bad valve, BAD ENGINE!

  • change the oil? lifters

  • Intake is leaking

  • Is your catalityc converted that are clogged , only a good technician will find the problem.

  • possibly the injectors, that is what might be wrong with mine, only it is the V8. My unprofessional opinion would be to replace all the injectors, but like you have stated it is sold... So hopefully this will help others :)

  • I had the same issue and I found that fuel injector 6 was bad and the exhaust gasket off the intake manifold was leaking. I had the same errors and rough idle/ticking.

  • did u check the spark plug gap on new plugs? also are wires on the right way

  • Im guessin its the Flux Capacitor!!! but idk

  • I had a 99 ford explorer sport that had the same problem with the mpg just randomly started sucking down the gas. Never had a ticking in the motor. Sold the vehicle already. Never did figure out the problem after 3 months of messing with it.

  • egr valve change ....that will fix it.

    and clean the air intake

    

  • Camshaft/Crankshaft positions sensor/wiring are bad, or you're spark plug wires are in the wrong position. the clicking could be the miss fire, your cylinder(s) is/are not firing, and is putting extra strain on the engine. I had a similar problem, my car ran like shit, turned out I had 2 spark plug wires plugged into the wrong distributer ports.

  • perhaps it`s the chain tensioner!

  • proably the computer

    

  • @gokartbuyer I have similer problm. with 1998 explorer.Spent small fortune,rebuilt transmission,changed plugs,wires,coil pack,mass air flow sensor.Still have same issue.acceleration sometimes slow,bucks-surges at all speeds.touching brake pedal durring event sometimes corrects problem momentarily.Thinking about changing computer as last effort before burning to the ground. anybody have an idea?

  • had same problem in my 2002 explorer... same sound... same initial change of plugs, wires.... dealer told me lifters may be stuck. error code was for cylindar misfire 0306 Then car blew a gasket... above ideas of blown rod make sense. now stuck with clunker... thinking of parting it out.

  • I have the same prob, listen to the left side, then the right. Does it seem like the sound is coming either side? Now listen to the front at the bottem. Does it seem like you can hear it there. I'm told its the timing belt tensioner. & fords do suck & so does Molson

  • camshaft positioning sensor or your crank sensor and it needs to be timed in thats why its knockin

  • i have the same thing going on in my 1996 ford explorer limited . i had the hydralic lifters and pushrods replaced and its still ticking (waste of 722 bucks!). the shop said it was a small grove in the cam shaft but i think its b.s. does anyone know how hard it is to get to the camshaft on these engines? if you do please wb. thanks

  • ya something is wrong with the timing or pcv vAULVE could be the tick but that wouldnt cause a missfire

  • i have a 98 5.0 and when i bought it it sounded just like that and what it was is the guy i got the truck from had 7 and 8 plug wire crossed so it ran really bad and sucked gas but it was saying the same thing it said ramdom cyl misfire

  • timing is off mine did it suck down gas and sound bad when it want down the road

  • intake leak

  • timing chain and/or lifters

    

  • its def the injectors making the misfire. and the bag gas mileage. the tickiing is most likely a lifter or a worn out pushrod. mine does the same(like i said in your other video)

  • You could do a quick test, walk to the front of hte vehicle, check for a small blue oval in the center. If you see one you found the problem.

  • your timing is off.

    remember, most recent fuel injected and computerized motors still have a distributors. yours may be on its way out.......uhhhhhh...wow, i just got to the bad sound part in the engine bay and you definitely have a bad valve or lifter. may be interfering with the ignition or could very well be a spark plug is arcing on the bad valve. valve no tclosing all the way and spark is jumping and grounding out on the valve?? wow, low on oil?? no, bad valve. thats about a $1000.00 job.

  • Lastly, could very possibly be a bad fuel injector, since you have both poor fuel economy AND misfiring, if one of those nozzles doesn't emit the exact amount of fuel called on by the computer, it can run like crap very easily. The ABS light has nothing to do with the emissions/ignition problems though. I would've changed the exhaust gas recirc valve (EGR) out of good measure anyway, with those miles it probably wouldn't hurt to change it.

  • throw an o2 sensor at it lol

  • It was probly your crankshaft position sensor my boys did it a couple of weeks ago he replaced the coil pack and it didnt work but it was the crankshaft position sensor and the clicking was your timing chain

  • Catalitic converter is plugged dude. that's what the catalist code is and the ticking..

  • IT'S your cat that was the first thing i thought!!!!

  • " Sittin' back, Dave Rock style " = NICE!

  • My EGR on my 98 5.0 V8 it lowederd my gas mielage i got it fixed or 360.00 my gas mileage is better, and my parts were from NAPA.

  • U need lifters or a valve job.

  • clogged catylitic converter i would say that does it have all its power?.

  • injector problem?

    

  • Sell it an get a new one.!

  • ecm? random mis-fire would point to the electronic control module... or, electronic control unit...

  • @fakie5150 i think it would be more like the icm (ignition control module)

  • have you tried resetting the valve and ignition timing?

  • sounds to me like something to do with the oxygen or map sensor or something to do with the fuel injectors

  • Chances are that problem was a fuel injector. Those ticks you are hearing could be a bunch of things unrelated to your problem. Could be fuel injectors, could be cracked cylinder, gasket leaks, low oil whatever. Your Random Cylinder Misfire is something that caused the entire engine (because it was multiple) I would have checked the EGR valve first.

  • reason i say its timing belt or lose chane is cuz that alone will cause random missfire also vaulve tap cuz the engin is firing eather to early ...or too late .... simple fix..change the timing ...if the problem iz still there then u have to look into getting a valve adjustment ...or maybe u simply have a belt valve .. then u need to replace the valve ...NOW if the problem stiill hasnt gone away then u have to look into ur crank and pistons ....dats getting costly ...

  • sounds like u need a timing belt ..

  • it sounds like a timing chain is loose and slipped time

  • DERN! I have the same problem...can't even pass my emissions test.....

  • did you ever figure out how to fix the randome miss fire?

  • @nisswafiredawg No, I sold it before I could figure it out. It could have been anything, something simple or something expensive, but I wish i could have figured it out.

  • @slyirish17 The problem is in the Chain of the motor , you have to chage every certain mileage , I work for the Ford motor company Puerto Rico an is very expesive you have to open the motor to change the distribution chain of the motor

  • explorerforumDOTcom. might need a knock sensor

  • ya i have the same problem with that ticking noise........ im not sure what it is but im pretty sure its gettin worse in my opinion its either a lifter, fly wheel and or touque converter

  • @clubhousemafia  maybe timeing chain

  • @TEDDAV64 timing chain doesnt make a ticking sound! lol.

  • well the problem is very simple......

    ITS A FORD!!!!!

  • after hearing the thing you have done to your FORD (fix or repair dayly) , it sound like you have a lean running machine. You should fix that exhaust leak, and maybe your o2 sensor can work properly. Also, you should install a real catalyst. Your FORD has downsteam o2 sensor that need that catalyst to work right, unless you install resitors to replace them with.

  • your ford explorer on the inside is just like my ranger

  • P0300= random misfire

    P0420= CAT efficiency below threshold

    My exp. your time chain has losen to point it has caused retarted timing this is causing your Electronic fuel injection to pump raw fuel into the cylinder and is causing the p300 and p420

  • Damn this is some bad video quality, check out my newer vids they are much better, sorry no explorer vids tho.

  • Dude gotta 1997 exploder (Eddie Bauer) V6 SOHC, And ima let u know what the most random thing i did and it made my light turn off stop the clicking and everything. I was gettin about 12.6 mpg went out bought some fuel injector cleaner stopped the ticking gave me a little more HP and bumped my mpg up to an even17

  • it was just old and time to move on, you also could have replaced the carburetor, we have a 1997 explorer and we had the same issue, we replaced the carburetor and got the cylinders cleaned and the mileage went from 13mpg to 30mpg. it was sort of typical for the 4.0l V6 but they perfected that by 2000.

  • @gasflame62

    carburetor? on a 1997 explorer? ..... I have some magic snow cones i would love to sell you

  • check fuel pressure and or fuel regulator

  • Did you figure it out?

    It may be a bad lifter as many has stated but that would not cause it to misfire on several different cylinders!

    It's electronic for sure! Or bad fuel injector.

  • If I were you I'd run not walk to nearest dealer and sell the vehicle as fast as you can.

  • yeah.........that sounds like a failed lifter or two

  • Yeah man sounds like you have tapping valves and also the valve lifters might be bad also

  • Agreed on DavesFarm being the best site on Youtube. My mom's 98 had all sorts of issues like yours, ticking, running rough at idle, lost some power. They had a recall on the engine at 30,000 due to bad oil pump design, but replaced only the motor. Years later that replacement motor went bad, we sold it to a mechanic (almost did C4C), and he replaced it again, not the pump though (Why?!), and says the noise is coming back again! Others say the plastic chain guides r breaking apart to the oil

  • Lifter tick, valve job buddy!

  • pull a plug wire while running if it doesnt make a diff when pulled check that cyl your code is probably from unburned fuel in the exaust you probably have a valvetraine prob hope this helps

  • you can do a cylinder isolation test by discon a plug wire 1 at a time. after discon the motor should run bad. when you pull one and it doesn't make any diff in the way it runs, that would be the cylinder to check. you can verify the bad cyl by pulling the plug of the cyl then you can do a cyl compression test on that jug and see what you get, then verify it with a cyl that you did the isolation test that you pulled a wire off and performance lacked. hope this helps

  • high mileage oil + seafoam = great success

  • Clean your MAF sensor and your Lambda sensor then take the negative battery pole off to Zero

  • the ticking sounds like lifter tick.. might need a valve job...

  • @4x4Explorer how much does that cost?

  • this is what happened to my 98 explorer, and we think its the timing chain. and if it keeps ticking, eventually your timing chain will snap, and you car wont run.

  • @iMaaaC Ya, and there are 4 on that sohc engine!!!!

  • @gry8ruth

    This is an OHV motor.

  • @iMaaaC - YEP! THE TIMING CHAIN IS EL SHITO! MINE HAS THE EXACT SAME TICK ECT>>> IT"S ABOUT $6,000 Buckaroos (US Dollars) to fix the pile o crap! IT"S NOT A VALVE STICKING!! NOPE. TIMING CHAIN causes those codes to appear, bad gas rating, rough ect ect... If you do replace the engine just wait about 3 to 4 years and YEP you'll replace it again and again and again... you'll dump over a million dollars in the f'ing thing. I drove mine off a clift lol :)

  • is the cylinder hydrolocked?

  • it may be oil pump or fuel pump

  • ground strap

  • it sounds like lifter noise to me maybe a bent push rod or a stuck lifter but also its very common for explorers to develop ticks as they get high miles

  • What you might try is spraying some starting fluid around the intake manifold, preferably around an area with a gasket. You are simply investigating a vacuum leak at the manifold, and I could be wrong. If the engine smooths out, then there is most likely a intake leak.

  • camshaft position sensor

  • sounds like you have a head down ...

    i be leave that motor has sohc,s and i would guess that 1 of the chains to the cam has snapped

  • two words Cracked head or you have a serious timing issue

  • its a ford thats why lol...j/k

  • check that rocks

  • I have a ford explorer as well i replaced my spark plugs and all that good stuff and replaced oil and it ran a whole hell of a lot better. Also shut your check engine light off by disconnecting the negative or positive on your battery for 5 min. and see how many miles before it comes on. Also does your check engine light blink? or is it a steady light. If it's steady it's nothing to serious but could harm your engine if it's blinking you have a serious problem. The ticking sounds like your fans.

  • Since you replaced the plugs and wires, one of them could be bad. I'm not sure about the ticking noise. Check the oil level when it is completely cold and make sure it isn't above full.

  • dude u have a bent push rod

  • for the tikin you might hve a low idle your post to idle at 1 in park once you do that it should run smoother and tht should improve gas millage and the shaking it worked for my 95 limited explorer

  • ihve a 95 ford explorer limited an my truck use to make that same tickin noise come to find out i just had a low idle theres a bolt u need to tighten or loosen to speed up the idle it post to idle at 1 in park on the rpm's ' tht might be the problem for the tickin belive me it will run alot smoother low idle causes the engine to run rougher an low gas milage

  • how low was the rpm?

    mine runs at about 800 if i get lucky,

    normally its at 600 or 700 rpm.

  • rpm was around 780 when warm

  • which bolt is it?

  • LOL no, the reason why u dont hear the tick at higher rpms is because the engine is drowning it out when reving higher. his tick is more then likely a dry lifter bottoming out. he could try other oils designed for high milege engines or have the top end redone

  • My '95 Limited Ford Explorer made that same noise. I checked all of my spark plugs and found two loose ones. Some plugs looked really bad, the tips I mean. I replaced the plugs and the plug wires, that reduced the clicking noise quite a bit. Then I cleaned of the ground plate on the coil pack and it doesn't make that noise anymore.

  • Sounds like you have a dead ECM. Fuel delivery and timing is out. You can try cleaning your mass air flow sensor with deoxit but I'm pretty sure your ECM is kaputski. Try the wrecker first, if it improves buy a brand new one.

  • Hey dude your engine sounds like a helicopter! if i were you, i would do a compression test because it sounds like you might have possible valve train/ bearing issues.

  • multiple things. ive had same problems exclude the ticking. o2 sensors,idle air control prolly needs cleaning just basics i geuss you know. ive recently had to replace head gaskets in mine. idk what to tell you sorry.

  • Hello my friend. I just purchased the same vehicle from an auction and it does the same thing. I had the plugs replaced, but nothing changed. I was informed by a sales rep at Salvo Auto Parts, the it could be the catalytic convert which may be clogged. My vehicle has no power when I step on the gas, and the engine shakes horribly. If you do resolve your issue, please post what you did,

    Best regards'

    Michael

  • My dad's 1995 Explorer recently has started to get only 10 miles per gallon city and we could smell gas when we start the car, when we leave the car idle, sometimes the RPMs go from 1 x 1,000 to 1.3 1 x 1,000 for like 1 second and you can hear it. When you pop the hood, you could kind of see the engine shake a bit. Is this a problem or is it normal?

  • Hook a vacuum gauge to it and see what you get,next a compression test is in order,dont just throw parts at it.Good luck.

  • I got a 96 explorer with the same problem but exclude the Tick Noise, mine isnt doing that BUT the codes I got back from autozone was crazy lol, need a Control Valve, a mass air sensor, idle speed Regulator, O2 Censor Downstream, Spark plug on the number 4 Cylinder cause its Misfireing, and Finally ignition Coil thats what the computer said I needed anyway, I say I change the plug and the O2 Censor and she will run like new!

  • The code reader will identify symptoms, not problems. All of those issues could be related to several things, vacuum leaks, clogged MAF sensor, dead ECM (common with Exploders) or a numer of other things. Chasing symptoms rarely resolves the real problems as one minor issue can trigger codes all over.

  • keep up with the recommended time of replacement parts and youre golden.

  • actually, the ford explorers arent really all that bad of a vehicle. remember, the cost of replacement parts for newer vehicles cost sometimes almost 3 - 4 times a 91 - 94 year vehicle does. plenty of reliable junkyard parts to find for the older models.

  • I don't have any tips for the EGR but i remember i had to replace it and it was a pain in the ass.

  • Have same problem with my brothers 1996 Ford Explorer Sport. It's Identicle to yours...incliding the problems and codes but has 2 doors and uses the 4. liter engine instead of the 5.0.

    It won't pass emissions and I replaced, the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, o2 sensors, and both catalatic converters.

    It's and great shape and the engine is strong, but in New York if it won't pass emissions it's trash.

    Any advise?

  • I would try a can of seafoam try using half in the air intake and half in the fuel tank and fill up with a good high premium of gasoline, such as BP or Shell 91 octane or higher, it should clean it out, and burn cleaner thus help at your emission testing. let me know if that works or not.

  • Ripped the top of engine apart and replaced the head gasket. There was minumal damage there.

    Also replaced Automatic idle speed flow sensor. The rubber gasket around the pipe that went from the throttle boddy control to the EGR valve also looked shot.

    After that the car idles far better, but I'm getting "ecessive egr flow" code.

  • if you didn't check the EGR dpf sensor, I would do that before replacing the valve.... they fail all the time on Exploders. I've already had to replace mine @ 60k

  • Any good tips for taking EGR valve off without destroying the tube that runs to the muffler? There is no way I'm gutting the nut off down by the firewall and there s little or no room to take the nut off by EGR valve.

  • if the nut is rusted pretty well on there, try PB BLASTER rust loosener!

    works the balls ;)

  • try a Ignition Module

  • Everybody is having this problem Ford Explorer are a headaches

  • Ford Explorer suck everybody is hjaving this problem is crazy!

  • yo tengo una explorer como esta del video y ya van 2 veces que se jode la transmission y debido a que este car no es para correr y minimo eh gastado 1100 dollars en la transmission :( :)

    saludos from méxico........!!!!!!

  • Uh, sorry people, it is a long time I can't solve a great problem: the transmission chain of my explorer destroyed own tensioners and obviously the car doesn't run. Does anybody knows the reason it happened, it can be for a lpg implant?

  • that same shit happened to my brothers ford explorer.. its one of your rocker arms. u got 16 of them holdind ur engine.. one must have snapped..

  • I see youve sold it but just for future refrence you may want to try seafoam. Carbon build up can cause predetination. Seafoam breaks up the carbon build up

  • Hey Dude...2+2=22...I'll explain! When you have car trouble you can't use common sense, because that car has none (more on the subject later). Listen to the engine when is off...if you hear nothing that means something is wrong. Let's recap...

    don't drive the panel motor till its empty, instead, reprogram the indash odometer to show -100(yes, it can be done), then bring the car to 4000 rpm's in neutral...hop in and put it in drive...but be sure to remove the muffler for a smoother ride.

  • Did you notice any power loss? just curious because I have some of the same symptoms.

  • check your fuel regulator (just do a search on how to do it)

    the tapping sounds like worn rocker arms(pretty common on fords.

    and last but not least you might have a clogged cat. converter

  • idk if anyone said this but maybe your plugs were not gapped right

  • i had the same problem, random cylinder missfire right ok i changed sparkplugs and wires and runs like new.

  • Did you buy your explorer used? If so, the last owner probably didn't have it serviced regularly. I had that same exact problem with my '97 when I had it, and that was in 2002. Might be the computer that's screwed up. I decided to stay away from V6s and I have a V8. But in the Mountaineer guise. Same truck Same engine,different looks.

  • the engine is over fueling with explains the emissions problem and gas mileage the problem lies within your valve train hince the ticking

  • my 2000 explorer sport acted kinda like that when the EGR valve went out..

    only it was a bit harder to start..

  • hey is that engine an SOHC by chance??? if so how many miles are on it???

  • check the injectors

  • 0mfg my dads explorer kept failing plugs to they fixed it they said water was leaking into the cillenders and makeing them fail but now thers a thumping sound when u stop or turn off the car

  • also how is the molson looks good.

  • The Molson was very good!

  • what got it? i remember my car broke down with shorted injector wires not spark plugs. it was similar for me. also odly by the fire wall on my 91 there was this little valve/ wire above the PCV valve when i tried to turn the car off it wouldnt want to instead it would pulse violently. when i held the little wire in place it would shut off. it also helped if i turned off the AC and let the engine cool slightly before shutting off.

  • hell ya i love molson man

  • o2 sencores or the ECU computer unit, (it should be behind the drivers side kick panel)

  • that happen to my car... exactly the same.. 96 4.0 v6.. and yah.. there are 2 O2 sensors.. and my mechanic had to replace both of them

  • i bet he had a head or lower manifold  gasket water leak thats getting on the valves or pistons.small leak.thats what my dads wagon had and misfired like if it was a plug or wire.

  • How many miles? It could be an O2 sensor, that is a gas killer. Try Seafoaming it. Mass Airflow sensor too.

  • Hey hope so of this helps ya i know youve replace someof these things but this is what i found to cause you enigne to do this Misfires can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel. hope it helps so you wont have to sell peace DJ

  • Did you check the spark plug gaps? Did you try replacing O2 sensors?

  • Yep, But Nothing, I'm selling it instead!

  • Let me know if you find the problem?

  • Why you sold it?

  • I had that same ticki noise on my 1999 Ford Explorer and the engine was shaking. I took it to every repair shop in the neighborhood and nobody know what was the problem! I got sick and tire and sold it for $400.00. If you find out what was the problem let me know Thanks!

  • best thing u could have done. That was the SOHC death rattle.

  • i have a 93 explorer with a 4.0 v6 (of course it's a six lol). bought it used with only 28k miles on it 5 years ago. ran fine for a while, but my lifters were pretty noisy especially on expressway driving, or driving up steep hills, basically when the engine has to work a little harder than normal. 1 year after i bought it, the engine started running rough. turns out a bad valve and faulty lifters were the cause. i've heard lifter failures are notorious in these explorers. do a compression test.

  • haha u should watch my ford explorer in action!

    or my bonnie!

  • It's your timing chain tensioner's a very common problem on these Explorers, I know ,I'm having mine done now,it will eventually blow the engine like it did on mine .Google it , Cost of engine replacement inc. rebuilt engine, $3000 good luck.

  • that tapping sounds like a bad lifter. I had the same problem on my 97 mountaineer (5.0)

  • This sounds is probably from valve spring mate. But it is usually not emergency.

    Did you check the oil? If it's out of oil,

    you have to fill the oil ASAP otherwise your car will go to junkyard.

  • Why would his car go to a junkcar? Why?

  • need to check the fuel injectors one or two could be getting bad that would give the codes you are getting also could be a cam going bad or a lifter sticking good luck

  • i would say it is either a piston pin or your timing is off to cause it to tick possibly a valve hitting a piston of not idk, my 77 mustang makes the same noise and im told it could be one of the 2 i mentioned. im fixing the timing in a few days and ill c if it fixed the noise.

  • check back pressure--pull out an o2 sensor and see if its within specs,especially with that catlyst code could def be a plugged conveter

  • that's easy is the oil pump...u need 2 buy a new one and u need a good mechanic cuz u he will need 2 remove the engine and install the new oi pump...i had the same problem trust me u don't want a run the truck like that cuz ur gonna mess up the engine..

  • you can also search for "Firing order" in wikipedia for better understanding of what i was referring to, in case you may have misplaced the order of the spark plug wires when putting them back.. the best way to do the spark plug wires is always take one off and replace it with a new on, and repeat one at a time to not run into the issue of missing the order they go which can practically destroy your engine , hope that help

  • when you replace the spark plug wires, you must keep the same order because the distributor has a particular firing order for the spark plugs. So the engine shaking, idling bad, and knocking is the result. proper firing order must be achieved or the engine will be damaged beyond repair.