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  • I still need to learn how to drag solder! =(

  • @Bylga conical tip makes it real easy

  • @ATBatmanMALS31 Thanks for your help.

  • @Bylga it isn't the concial tip at all, it's called something else, sorry if I steered you wrong. I'll find out what it is today

  • @ATBatmanMALS31 Ok thank you.

  • @Bylga the Pace brand name is "Miniwave," but there are lots of copies of it out there. Pretty much a single sided chisel with a reservoir on the flat side. I think if you used it on some surface mount components a few times you'd see how easy it really is

  • What is the name of SMT camera which is on video trough 3:96 - 4:01

  • Soldering could be considered an art form.

  • i thought i new how to solder until i saw this video

  • Are you using a regular iron with a special type of tip for the drag soldering?

  • what temperatures are good for ROHS tin .. since I started using ROHS tin my soldering isn's so shiny as it used to be :(

  • @1oglop1

    ROHS (lead-free). Best manufacturing practices for lead free, SAC alloy (SAC 305 - tin, silver, copper.) Ideal tip temp is 650 F - 700 F maximum. Sac alloy produces a visual characteristic identical to a cold solder fillet. SAC alloy also produces an increase in "wetting contact angle." Here's a trick.. Soldering lead-free with a bottom pre-heater at around 150 - 200 F or from a heat gun promotes much better wetting as silver has a higher melting point to achieve its liquidous phase.

  • Those close-up shots of perfect drag soldering are like porn for electrical engineers.

  • I am a US Navy 2M (Mini-Micro) solder inspector. This work is right on. I wish my students could do this so quickly. Heck, I wish I could do this so quickly.

  • @GONZOFAM7

    A number of my IPC and SMTA associates are former 2M. They use to train a lot over there at NAWS (China Lake) in Ridgecrest and at Redstone.

    When I drag solder, I use a high solids flux syringe, a no-clean tacky flux or an RMA. My speed of travel is determined by my wetting action. I control the dwell time so I dont thermally shock my SMD's. I also know I am getting Class 3 heel fillets and 100% side joint length by a "one touch" technique. NASA-STD-8739.2

    & IPC-J-STD-001.

  • so were can i find a tacky flux syringe just like the one your using???

  • this is the most illustrative video I've ever seen on soldering.

    I've solder iron ,but where can I find flux?(trying to replace blown capacitors in a video card)

  • terminals must be well tined and covered in flux to prevent their oxidation at high temperature.All this because terminals must be clean and well heated BEFORE applying the solder on them.Then the solder fills the joint by itself very quickly.Do it any other way and it will take longer time,in this time the molten alloy dissolves the base metal from both the terminals and the tip of your iron.This impurified solder cannot hold the bond in place,it will break on cooling and looklike a white mess

  • Cool Video! One question though, whats the clear liquid stuff you use on the SOIC drag soldering?

    Many thanks

  • @damntorpedoes

    Your question is the most common one. The liquid that comes out of the syringe is called Tacky Flux. It is a high solids No-Clean flux. It is manufactured by Kester, Chemtronics, Indium and others.

    Tacky Flux and the correct drag soldering or hoof tip, with proper technique and one can do some very consistent Class 3 soldering.

  • Amazing.

    My Fab&Assy Lab teaches us just to tin the wire and soldering iron then solder the wire to the terminals. Is there a reason for adding flux(?) and tinning the terminals before soldering the wire onto it?

  • That´s a really beautiful and well-finished work...congratulations for share this gorgeous video!

  • the thing at the end of the video is usb microscope

  • This is a superb video! You make a task that is difficult for beginners look easy. I picked up a number of different tips from this video alone. Great work!

  • What is the brand/model of soldering iron you're using in this video? It seems the tip is very effective. I keep getting cheapo soldering irons too. I've ordered some expensive Kester .031 63/37 and am hoping it'll help with my soldering jobs too. How about flux? Where can I buy flux and is flux the same as rosin? Sorry for all the questions, but I wanna learn!

  • Does that rock music play all day in the lab? :p

  • Whats the best iron for soldering components onto PCB's? I have ruined 2 classic Mac computer logic boards trying to replace the SM caps with electrolytics. It'd work great too - just bend the legs of the electrolytics into feet and solder them on the SM's old pads but NOTHING ever melts fast enough and I end up burning then pulling up the old solder pad. Suggest please an affordable ($20-$40) soldering pencil. I've ordered some Kester 63/37 too.

  • @GuyWithGuitars1 Are you sure that that the surface is clean? If it is an old board there may be a lot of oxidation, and the solder will not stick to the oxidized surface.

  • @bullvalene I kind of got the hang of it now. The trick is DEFINITELY preparation and making sure the surface and iron is as clean as they can be. Using flux and tinning the ends of the caps made all the difference too.

  • @GuyWithGuitars1

    Well done ! You have learned the number 1 fundamental. Surface preparation and tinning but minimize your dwell time. Only enough heat to tin or create your solder fillet and then get off of it and do not reflow unless absolutely necessary or you can invoke "thermal stress" to the IC which can promote latent failure.

  • @jkgamm041 Thanks. I blew out a couple motherboards by making mistakes, but thanks to your vids I am pretty confident now. I really enjoy bringing vintage computers back to life by replacing SMD caps.

  • The music ruled.

  • i can solder in my sleep.

  • does this type of work pay decently, and is there a demand for it? I'm pretty steady handed and good with fine details. I'm interested in doing something like this.

  • If anyone can help. Im going to buy a new iron because mine is gone at this stage. Any recommendations ? Also what is that copper like strip used in the video :O ? thanks :D

  • What is added with the brush?

  • First of all I have to say that your soldering is awesome!.

    I have recently started in electronics and am finding the desoldering more difficult than the soldering to be honest. Am i correct in thinking that the flux you use in this video does not require cleaning after the soldering is complete?

    Is it possible to use a standard brazing flux like you use on copper pipe providing it is cleaned off afterwards or does it have to be specialised for electronics?

    Many thanks

  • @muskypucker I do not believe your soldering sucks. I have had discouraged students in the past in your same situation. You are probably using a poor iron, oxidized tip and I have no idea what alloys you are using for your . You may not being using the proper tip and your technique may be incorrect or a combination thereof.

    How can you develop if you have not been professionally trained ?

  • @jkgamm041 the tip of the iron should be clean enough to give a nice shine. if it gets dull or dirty looking then it will not transfer heat efficiently. you can clean it on a wet sponge and most importantly keep it clean by leaving the whole tip tinned between uses.

  • Great beautiful and amazing video!!! simply perfect work.-

  • How do you bend stranded wire tips so cleanly? Every time I do, it turns into a mess and expands out too wide.

  • what type of solderin tip is that?

    than ks

  • john, what is the diametter of the bevel tip you guys using?

  • Ah, but the one thing you didn't show how to do is how to get around the problem of not having 3 or 4 hands, that seems to be the only place I struggle :P

  • @KX36 there is a third hand device on his workbench... he also uses kapton tape sometimes to hold the ICS in place.

  • Best hardcore "Electronics Geek Porn" I've seen in a long time. Wow!

  • at 3:24 MUST EMPTY LIFE SAVINGS TO PURCHASE GEEK TOYNESS

  • Ước gi...

  • what brand of solder wick do you use\ recommand ?

  • @jkgamm041

    is there a risk to electrolytic capacitors being blown up with pre-heating? how effective is pre-heating when working with a board with many ECs?

  • this is awesome !!! i want to learn electronics right now !!!

  • what is the name of soundtrack?

  • what is this liquid that passes before the solder??

  • @maxellmxl It's called Flux. Solder normally has a flux core but using some liquid or flux paste makes a job a whole lot easier.

  • @cypherf0x thanks !!

    =D

  • i want to leado that.

  • nosso... entendo que bem...

  • what are they using before they put solder on?

  • @jrosas88

    Its called flux. Usually it is a resin based stuff that helps remove the oxides from the surfaces of metals letting the solder bond with the metal. It is activated with heat. Heat makes it boil, when it boils it removes the oxides and then solder bonds great. Usually solder contains some flux in it and this is why it can bond with metallic surfaces without you using extra. But if you need reliable bonds you always use extra flux.

  • @jrosas88

    The liquid in the syringe is a no-clean high solids tacky flux. Flux is activated by heat. It is a chemical cleaning agent which removes mild to medium oxides and prevents re-oxidation. The flux also reduces surface tension allowing the solder to wet rapidly to create the metallurgical bond.

  • @jkgamm041 can u used the same flux they use for pluming and soldering pipes together etc?

  • @binashraf The flux for plumbing is more of a paste than a liquid. I asume you could use it but it would take more than it was worth!

  • @jrosas88 It's called FLUX.

  • I would like to have a job like this. What is the requirements for this kind of job? Would i need a bachelor's degree for this? What would this job be named?

    Thanks, EduardoGTO64

  • Way better than the Chinese work.

  • Great footage and awesome soundtrack.

    By a clear mile the most informative soldering video that i've seen.

  • @greg16266

    Thank you.

  • @greg16266

    I thought it could have used a little experimental jazz frankly.

  • I have been using Kesters 951. I am using a aoyue 968 station. I am working with lead free existing solder. I believe i need to use a pre-heater on some removal. I had some bridged points and my iron on max temps could barley wet the existing surface.

  • @charcoal85

    For all viewers, the key to efficient lead-free soldering with minimum thermal stress: Pre-heating

    I recommend a max of 150 to 200 degrees F. Pre-heat minimizes thermal stress. It reduces dwell time and you can reduce your tip temp as well by 25 - 50 degrees and still achieve excellent wetting with a true metallurgical bond. Pre-heat will allow the lead-free to wet like butter and pull bridges very quickly. I guarantee it.

  • @jkgamm041

    hi, i've always heard people saying great things about pre-heating but i haven't jumped in that bandwagon out of fear of electrolytic capacitors (especially the cheap ones) blowing up. i work mainly with computer motherboards and video cards and they tend to have many big ECs. it seems you have experience with pre-heating, i've been having the same issues with lead-free solder, please enlighten me!

  • @jkgamm041

    is there a risk to electrolytic capacitors being blown up with pre-heating? how effective is pre-heating when working with a board with many ECs?

  • Hey John, I see the use of solder wick is often used after the initial tin for you're target, why is this precisely? Some of them look like they won't have an excess in the final joint.

    Regards from AZ.

  • @catatonicprime

    NASA-STD-8739.3 Soldered Electrical Connections, which is one of the standards that I train people in has a requirement for tinning the leads to promote solderability.

    Many terminals have some percentage of oxidation or contaminants which will amalgamate with the solder fillet and affect structural integrity through an inferior metallurgical bond. If terminals, through-hole and surface mount leads are tinned, the wicking removes the contaminants and promotes high reliability.

  • @jkgamm041 Ah, that makes perfect sense - I was aware that the fluxing during tinning 'cleaned' it up, but I suppose I never really thought about where the contaminants went. Thanks for the speedy response and I feel my level in soldering has just increased by +1. =D

  • @catatonicprime

    Let me clarify please that I only wick the terminals. Tinning and wicking is a NASA requirement for high reliability.

  • pretty awesome stuff. Im new to it all and let me tell you there is alot of skill there to make it look that easy ha ha.

  • @charcoal85

    You are correct. It is an acquired skill. It is not as easy as it looks. Some fundamentals:

    High solids flux and preferably tacky flux. Sn63 Pb37 eutectic solder in the appropriate diameter based on your lead pitch. When I solder lead-free I prefer the use of a pre-heater as it promotes rapid wetting and the pre-heat reduces my dwell time. I prefer SN100C (nickel).

    Your hand [ MUST ] apply very light pressure consistently on the leads and with very consistent speed of travel.

  • hmmm really a great soldering ever , i need some help in soldering that i hv china made 40 watt soldering iron but every hour it takes tining processes and have no gud job so wud u recommend me something better in order to help me as a electro hobbyst, thnks

  • Great video, i also have my IPC certs, IPC Wiring Harness and IPC Soldering.

  • best

  • Great video :) What is the brand and model of the flux used at 0:27 in the movie? And what brand and model is the yellow stick flux used?

  • I tell you... the BEST soldering guide video.

    HATS OFF!

  • @kaushixmail

    Thank you. I would still like to go back in and touch up a few areas.

  • I like it too much!

    Incredible video, incredible job at all!

  • @adilka10

    Thank you for your feedback.

  • It's Really Really Awesome,

    I am in Taiwan and want to join your training.

    Could you tell me how ?

  • @piyushpv

    I believe that you and Taiwan would benefit very much by having our training programs available in Taiwan. Perhaps you can discuss this with Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing, Customized Training at Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, MN. His contact info is at the end of this video. We have an interest in providing training to international markets.

  • i was transfixed the entire video

  • What is that on 0:27 (name of that)

    Then On 2:57 there some kinda metal strip, what is that?

  • hay ,, what is the name of liquid flux pen ????

  • Kool

  • There are really useful techniques shown in this video. The drag method for SMTs is the one I prefer. Hot air sometimes is just not practical and reflow ovens can cause thermal stress. Cheers! :)

  • @amartinjoe

    Thank you. I try very hard to evolve in my skills. It is an ongoing path of continuous improvement. There are several parts of this video that I would like to re-do.

    The pre-tinning of terminals was excessive. I have a much quicker and cleaner way to do it now. The wire on the bifurcated terminal should have been reversed going through the center. We all make errors.

    The main question is: what do we do to correct them and learn from our mistakes so we improve? It's a process.

  • @amartinjoe I saw a guy do that at my old work back in '98. earned him an ace linkedin recommendation from me :) and this was *after* desoldering an effective part, nobody would have known.

  • Excellent video - it inspired us to upgrade our own proto-type lab so we could address TQFP's. We were using Weller(Cooper) so it took us some time to fathom out the tips we needed (hoof = spade & miniflow = gullwing). Many thanks!!

  • @Strasseer

    When I look at performance, initial cost and cost of ownership my choice would not be Weller. I can take a Hakko FX 951 with 70 watts at the handle, compact, ultra performer, incredible thermal recovery at $250. retail, tips are $10. each with 100 microns more of plating and I will put that up against any Weller and out perform it with ease, guaranteed.

    My professional advice as a Certified IPC Trainer, I will only purchase Hakko and Metcal.

  • Do you guys use SN100e? Is there anything better in your opinion?

  • @LauxHawk

    Yes. In our lead-free training we use SN100e (Tin, Copper, Cobalt) by Qualitek. My preference is SN100e or SN100c (Nickel). I don't like SAC alloy as it disturbs me to look at a fillet that looks like it is cold, increased wetting contact angles, porous, matte, grainy, etc...

    SN100e is the best for hand soldering in my opinion but for SMT lines like MYDATA MY9, 12, 100 and others, SAC alloy is currently a best manufacturing practice as the profiles are the easiest to control.

  • @jkgamm041 Thank you.

  • I would love to do one of your courses but I live in Ireland darn !!

  • Very Inspiring

  • excellent.

    God bless.

  • Thank you very much.

  • Excellent video, I love it. Thank you for posting. I would like to know two things: are classes being offered at Dakota County College? If so, where is it listed under. Also would greatly appreciate it if you could tell us more on how to obtain the Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502. They are the "secret sauce". Once again...thank you.

  • Dakota County Technical College is located in Rosemount, MN. Classes are being offered at the college.

    Contact Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing. (651) 423-8276. Google: DCTC soldering.

    I only train through the college in the state of MN. I will however travel out of state for personal one on one training and will transfer many of my skills to you in hand soldering. IPC certification in A-610 and J-Standard is available and very reasonable.

  • Gee whiz Wally - looks like the course in precision soldering I taught in the 80's in the USAF with all the barrel and turret connections, didnt think those were used anymore but there must be if they are still teaching it. Beautiful soldering, the way it should be done. Too bad the Chinese work so darn cheap that there's little if any work in this field in the US anymore.

  • what is white pen with yellow head? Any one know?

  • soldring gurus

  • What a great demonstration - this inspires me to put aside my fears of working with SM components due to lack of experience.

  • what's that wonderful stuff that's being squirted next to the chip and where can i get some?it's some kind of desolder gew?

  • Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502, a no-clean tack flux formula that possesses a high activity level, allowing it to solder nickel surfaces. Resembles Chemtronix No-Clean RMA high solids tack flux. Both are top performers.

    Flux is a chemical cleaning agent which facilitates soldering by removing oxidation from the metals to be joined. Flux is also a wetting agent used to lower the surface tension of molten solder allowing improved wetting of the solder over the substrate.

  • Thank you for this great video !

  • this is art! Very beautiful!

  • Terrific. What an excellent video. I would like to be that good at soldering.

  • This is top quality stuff. Thanks for the link to this video! I have nothing but good stuff to say about this, just simply amazing work! Just a question about the clip - is that a camera placed over the PCB to show the work on the monitor? Never seen that before, but it sure looks easier on the eyes!!

  • @coolboarder44

    Thank you for your support.

  • Awesome! Is it some kind of mini/micro wave soldering tip?

  • Great article, you make it look too easy.

  • What is your tip temp?

    Kester recommends 600F for lead bearing soldering.

    But I find that lowering the tip temp to 550F or even 500F doesn't affect wetting and spreading too much but smoke is reduced dramatically.

    What is your opinion on tip temperature?

  • Excellent comment !

    I recommend 550F - 600F. If you can achieve acceptable wetting which produced a true metallurgical bond between 500 - 550 then I have to support the use of lower heat. More heat and additional reflow does affect high reliability. Components are thermally sensitive. 63/37 tin/lead by Kester has a eutectic melting point of 361F. My recommendation is 550 - 600 for tin/lead and 650 - 700 max for lead free. keep that tip tinned !

  • Wowlie moley Thats some nice gear there. Does such a beautiful job too :D Like that flux!

  • Thank you. I cross train my students on different brands of equipment. It is important to share the following with you.

    A soldering station, irregardless of the brand, is nothing more than a heat source. They generally perform the same.

    Any student of mine can achieve identical Class 3 work using any brand of equipment by simply using the same techniques, temperature, similar tips, similar flux and solder. You don't need nice gear to do what I do. I can do this with a Weller WES51 analog.

  • That was nicest soldering video what I have ever seen! Great job!

  • @flesknava

    Thank you.

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