@Bylga the Pace brand name is "Miniwave," but there are lots of copies of it out there. Pretty much a single sided chisel with a reservoir on the flat side. I think if you used it on some surface mount components a few times you'd see how easy it really is
ROHS (lead-free). Best manufacturing practices for lead free, SAC alloy (SAC 305 - tin, silver, copper.) Ideal tip temp is 650 F - 700 F maximum. Sac alloy produces a visual characteristic identical to a cold solder fillet. SAC alloy also produces an increase in "wetting contact angle." Here's a trick.. Soldering lead-free with a bottom pre-heater at around 150 - 200 F or from a heat gun promotes much better wetting as silver has a higher melting point to achieve its liquidous phase.
I am a US Navy 2M (Mini-Micro) solder inspector. This work is right on. I wish my students could do this so quickly. Heck, I wish I could do this so quickly.
A number of my IPC and SMTA associates are former 2M. They use to train a lot over there at NAWS (China Lake) in Ridgecrest and at Redstone.
When I drag solder, I use a high solids flux syringe, a no-clean tacky flux or an RMA. My speed of travel is determined by my wetting action. I control the dwell time so I dont thermally shock my SMD's. I also know I am getting Class 3 heel fillets and 100% side joint length by a "one touch" technique. NASA-STD-8739.2
terminals must be well tined and covered in flux to prevent their oxidation at high temperature.All this because terminals must be clean and well heated BEFORE applying the solder on them.Then the solder fills the joint by itself very quickly.Do it any other way and it will take longer time,in this time the molten alloy dissolves the base metal from both the terminals and the tip of your iron.This impurified solder cannot hold the bond in place,it will break on cooling and looklike a white mess
Your question is the most common one. The liquid that comes out of the syringe is called Tacky Flux. It is a high solids No-Clean flux. It is manufactured by Kester, Chemtronics, Indium and others.
Tacky Flux and the correct drag soldering or hoof tip, with proper technique and one can do some very consistent Class 3 soldering.
My Fab&Assy Lab teaches us just to tin the wire and soldering iron then solder the wire to the terminals. Is there a reason for adding flux(?) and tinning the terminals before soldering the wire onto it?
This is a superb video! You make a task that is difficult for beginners look easy. I picked up a number of different tips from this video alone. Great work!
What is the brand/model of soldering iron you're using in this video? It seems the tip is very effective. I keep getting cheapo soldering irons too. I've ordered some expensive Kester .031 63/37 and am hoping it'll help with my soldering jobs too. How about flux? Where can I buy flux and is flux the same as rosin? Sorry for all the questions, but I wanna learn!
Whats the best iron for soldering components onto PCB's? I have ruined 2 classic Mac computer logic boards trying to replace the SM caps with electrolytics. It'd work great too - just bend the legs of the electrolytics into feet and solder them on the SM's old pads but NOTHING ever melts fast enough and I end up burning then pulling up the old solder pad. Suggest please an affordable ($20-$40) soldering pencil. I've ordered some Kester 63/37 too.
@GuyWithGuitars1 Are you sure that that the surface is clean? If it is an old board there may be a lot of oxidation, and the solder will not stick to the oxidized surface.
@bullvalene I kind of got the hang of it now. The trick is DEFINITELY preparation and making sure the surface and iron is as clean as they can be. Using flux and tinning the ends of the caps made all the difference too.
Well done ! You have learned the number 1 fundamental. Surface preparation and tinning but minimize your dwell time. Only enough heat to tin or create your solder fillet and then get off of it and do not reflow unless absolutely necessary or you can invoke "thermal stress" to the IC which can promote latent failure.
@jkgamm041 Thanks. I blew out a couple motherboards by making mistakes, but thanks to your vids I am pretty confident now. I really enjoy bringing vintage computers back to life by replacing SMD caps.
does this type of work pay decently, and is there a demand for it? I'm pretty steady handed and good with fine details. I'm interested in doing something like this.
If anyone can help. Im going to buy a new iron because mine is gone at this stage. Any recommendations ? Also what is that copper like strip used in the video :O ? thanks :D
First of all I have to say that your soldering is awesome!.
I have recently started in electronics and am finding the desoldering more difficult than the soldering to be honest. Am i correct in thinking that the flux you use in this video does not require cleaning after the soldering is complete?
Is it possible to use a standard brazing flux like you use on copper pipe providing it is cleaned off afterwards or does it have to be specialised for electronics?
@muskypucker I do not believe your soldering sucks. I have had discouraged students in the past in your same situation. You are probably using a poor iron, oxidized tip and I have no idea what alloys you are using for your . You may not being using the proper tip and your technique may be incorrect or a combination thereof.
How can you develop if you have not been professionally trained ?
@jkgamm041 the tip of the iron should be clean enough to give a nice shine. if it gets dull or dirty looking then it will not transfer heat efficiently. you can clean it on a wet sponge and most importantly keep it clean by leaving the whole tip tinned between uses.
Ah, but the one thing you didn't show how to do is how to get around the problem of not having 3 or 4 hands, that seems to be the only place I struggle :P
Its called flux. Usually it is a resin based stuff that helps remove the oxides from the surfaces of metals letting the solder bond with the metal. It is activated with heat. Heat makes it boil, when it boils it removes the oxides and then solder bonds great. Usually solder contains some flux in it and this is why it can bond with metallic surfaces without you using extra. But if you need reliable bonds you always use extra flux.
The liquid in the syringe is a no-clean high solids tacky flux. Flux is activated by heat. It is a chemical cleaning agent which removes mild to medium oxides and prevents re-oxidation. The flux also reduces surface tension allowing the solder to wet rapidly to create the metallurgical bond.
I would like to have a job like this. What is the requirements for this kind of job? Would i need a bachelor's degree for this? What would this job be named?
I have been using Kesters 951. I am using a aoyue 968 station. I am working with lead free existing solder. I believe i need to use a pre-heater on some removal. I had some bridged points and my iron on max temps could barley wet the existing surface.
For all viewers, the key to efficient lead-free soldering with minimum thermal stress: Pre-heating
I recommend a max of 150 to 200 degrees F. Pre-heat minimizes thermal stress. It reduces dwell time and you can reduce your tip temp as well by 25 - 50 degrees and still achieve excellent wetting with a true metallurgical bond. Pre-heat will allow the lead-free to wet like butter and pull bridges very quickly. I guarantee it.
hi, i've always heard people saying great things about pre-heating but i haven't jumped in that bandwagon out of fear of electrolytic capacitors (especially the cheap ones) blowing up. i work mainly with computer motherboards and video cards and they tend to have many big ECs. it seems you have experience with pre-heating, i've been having the same issues with lead-free solder, please enlighten me!
Hey John, I see the use of solder wick is often used after the initial tin for you're target, why is this precisely? Some of them look like they won't have an excess in the final joint.
NASA-STD-8739.3 Soldered Electrical Connections, which is one of the standards that I train people in has a requirement for tinning the leads to promote solderability.
Many terminals have some percentage of oxidation or contaminants which will amalgamate with the solder fillet and affect structural integrity through an inferior metallurgical bond. If terminals, through-hole and surface mount leads are tinned, the wicking removes the contaminants and promotes high reliability.
@jkgamm041 Ah, that makes perfect sense - I was aware that the fluxing during tinning 'cleaned' it up, but I suppose I never really thought about where the contaminants went. Thanks for the speedy response and I feel my level in soldering has just increased by +1. =D
You are correct. It is an acquired skill. It is not as easy as it looks. Some fundamentals:
High solids flux and preferably tacky flux. Sn63 Pb37 eutectic solder in the appropriate diameter based on your lead pitch. When I solder lead-free I prefer the use of a pre-heater as it promotes rapid wetting and the pre-heat reduces my dwell time. I prefer SN100C (nickel).
Your hand [ MUST ] apply very light pressure consistently on the leads and with very consistent speed of travel.
hmmm really a great soldering ever , i need some help in soldering that i hv china made 40 watt soldering iron but every hour it takes tining processes and have no gud job so wud u recommend me something better in order to help me as a electro hobbyst, thnks
I believe that you and Taiwan would benefit very much by having our training programs available in Taiwan. Perhaps you can discuss this with Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing, Customized Training at Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, MN. His contact info is at the end of this video. We have an interest in providing training to international markets.
There are really useful techniques shown in this video. The drag method for SMTs is the one I prefer. Hot air sometimes is just not practical and reflow ovens can cause thermal stress. Cheers! :)
Thank you. I try very hard to evolve in my skills. It is an ongoing path of continuous improvement. There are several parts of this video that I would like to re-do.
The pre-tinning of terminals was excessive. I have a much quicker and cleaner way to do it now. The wire on the bifurcated terminal should have been reversed going through the center. We all make errors.
The main question is: what do we do to correct them and learn from our mistakes so we improve? It's a process.
@amartinjoe I saw a guy do that at my old work back in '98. earned him an ace linkedin recommendation from me :) and this was *after* desoldering an effective part, nobody would have known.
Excellent video - it inspired us to upgrade our own proto-type lab so we could address TQFP's. We were using Weller(Cooper) so it took us some time to fathom out the tips we needed (hoof = spade & miniflow = gullwing). Many thanks!!
When I look at performance, initial cost and cost of ownership my choice would not be Weller. I can take a Hakko FX 951 with 70 watts at the handle, compact, ultra performer, incredible thermal recovery at $250. retail, tips are $10. each with 100 microns more of plating and I will put that up against any Weller and out perform it with ease, guaranteed.
My professional advice as a Certified IPC Trainer, I will only purchase Hakko and Metcal.
Yes. In our lead-free training we use SN100e (Tin, Copper, Cobalt) by Qualitek. My preference is SN100e or SN100c (Nickel). I don't like SAC alloy as it disturbs me to look at a fillet that looks like it is cold, increased wetting contact angles, porous, matte, grainy, etc...
SN100e is the best for hand soldering in my opinion but for SMT lines like MYDATA MY9, 12, 100 and others, SAC alloy is currently a best manufacturing practice as the profiles are the easiest to control.
Excellent video, I love it. Thank you for posting. I would like to know two things: are classes being offered at Dakota County College? If so, where is it listed under. Also would greatly appreciate it if you could tell us more on how to obtain the Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502. They are the "secret sauce". Once again...thank you.
Dakota County Technical College is located in Rosemount, MN. Classes are being offered at the college.
Contact Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing. (651) 423-8276. Google: DCTC soldering.
I only train through the college in the state of MN. I will however travel out of state for personal one on one training and will transfer many of my skills to you in hand soldering. IPC certification in A-610 and J-Standard is available and very reasonable.
Gee whiz Wally - looks like the course in precision soldering I taught in the 80's in the USAF with all the barrel and turret connections, didnt think those were used anymore but there must be if they are still teaching it. Beautiful soldering, the way it should be done. Too bad the Chinese work so darn cheap that there's little if any work in this field in the US anymore.
Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502, a no-clean tack flux formula that possesses a high activity level, allowing it to solder nickel surfaces. Resembles Chemtronix No-Clean RMA high solids tack flux. Both are top performers.
Flux is a chemical cleaning agent which facilitates soldering by removing oxidation from the metals to be joined. Flux is also a wetting agent used to lower the surface tension of molten solder allowing improved wetting of the solder over the substrate.
This is top quality stuff. Thanks for the link to this video! I have nothing but good stuff to say about this, just simply amazing work! Just a question about the clip - is that a camera placed over the PCB to show the work on the monitor? Never seen that before, but it sure looks easier on the eyes!!
I recommend 550F - 600F. If you can achieve acceptable wetting which produced a true metallurgical bond between 500 - 550 then I have to support the use of lower heat. More heat and additional reflow does affect high reliability. Components are thermally sensitive. 63/37 tin/lead by Kester has a eutectic melting point of 361F. My recommendation is 550 - 600 for tin/lead and 650 - 700 max for lead free. keep that tip tinned !
Thank you. I cross train my students on different brands of equipment. It is important to share the following with you.
A soldering station, irregardless of the brand, is nothing more than a heat source. They generally perform the same.
Any student of mine can achieve identical Class 3 work using any brand of equipment by simply using the same techniques, temperature, similar tips, similar flux and solder. You don't need nice gear to do what I do. I can do this with a Weller WES51 analog.
I still need to learn how to drag solder! =(
Bylga 2 weeks ago
@Bylga conical tip makes it real easy
ATBatmanMALS31 5 days ago
@ATBatmanMALS31 Thanks for your help.
Bylga 4 days ago
@Bylga it isn't the concial tip at all, it's called something else, sorry if I steered you wrong. I'll find out what it is today
ATBatmanMALS31 4 days ago
@ATBatmanMALS31 Ok thank you.
Bylga 4 days ago
@Bylga the Pace brand name is "Miniwave," but there are lots of copies of it out there. Pretty much a single sided chisel with a reservoir on the flat side. I think if you used it on some surface mount components a few times you'd see how easy it really is
ATBatmanMALS31 4 days ago
What is the name of SMT camera which is on video trough 3:96 - 4:01
sokre95 3 weeks ago
Soldering could be considered an art form.
JoeMakesCoasters 1 month ago
i thought i new how to solder until i saw this video
eogg25 1 month ago 2
Are you using a regular iron with a special type of tip for the drag soldering?
jbabob 2 months ago
what temperatures are good for ROHS tin .. since I started using ROHS tin my soldering isn's so shiny as it used to be :(
1oglop1 2 months ago
@1oglop1
ROHS (lead-free). Best manufacturing practices for lead free, SAC alloy (SAC 305 - tin, silver, copper.) Ideal tip temp is 650 F - 700 F maximum. Sac alloy produces a visual characteristic identical to a cold solder fillet. SAC alloy also produces an increase in "wetting contact angle." Here's a trick.. Soldering lead-free with a bottom pre-heater at around 150 - 200 F or from a heat gun promotes much better wetting as silver has a higher melting point to achieve its liquidous phase.
jkgamm041 2 months ago 3
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tahir6nazir98 6 days ago
Those close-up shots of perfect drag soldering are like porn for electrical engineers.
alcapwned86 2 months ago 35
I am a US Navy 2M (Mini-Micro) solder inspector. This work is right on. I wish my students could do this so quickly. Heck, I wish I could do this so quickly.
GONZOFAM7 3 months ago
@GONZOFAM7
A number of my IPC and SMTA associates are former 2M. They use to train a lot over there at NAWS (China Lake) in Ridgecrest and at Redstone.
When I drag solder, I use a high solids flux syringe, a no-clean tacky flux or an RMA. My speed of travel is determined by my wetting action. I control the dwell time so I dont thermally shock my SMD's. I also know I am getting Class 3 heel fillets and 100% side joint length by a "one touch" technique. NASA-STD-8739.2
& IPC-J-STD-001.
jkgamm041 3 months ago
so were can i find a tacky flux syringe just like the one your using???
BLACKBINLATIN 4 months ago
this is the most illustrative video I've ever seen on soldering.
I've solder iron ,but where can I find flux?(trying to replace blown capacitors in a video card)
magnetoazulhuevon 4 months ago
terminals must be well tined and covered in flux to prevent their oxidation at high temperature.All this because terminals must be clean and well heated BEFORE applying the solder on them.Then the solder fills the joint by itself very quickly.Do it any other way and it will take longer time,in this time the molten alloy dissolves the base metal from both the terminals and the tip of your iron.This impurified solder cannot hold the bond in place,it will break on cooling and looklike a white mess
tovarisci 4 months ago
Cool Video! One question though, whats the clear liquid stuff you use on the SOIC drag soldering?
Many thanks
damntorpedoes 4 months ago
@damntorpedoes
Your question is the most common one. The liquid that comes out of the syringe is called Tacky Flux. It is a high solids No-Clean flux. It is manufactured by Kester, Chemtronics, Indium and others.
Tacky Flux and the correct drag soldering or hoof tip, with proper technique and one can do some very consistent Class 3 soldering.
jkgamm041 4 months ago
Amazing.
My Fab&Assy Lab teaches us just to tin the wire and soldering iron then solder the wire to the terminals. Is there a reason for adding flux(?) and tinning the terminals before soldering the wire onto it?
omfgirl2 4 months ago in playlist soldering
That´s a really beautiful and well-finished work...congratulations for share this gorgeous video!
hidekiclaudio 4 months ago
the thing at the end of the video is usb microscope
Ckhris28 5 months ago
This is a superb video! You make a task that is difficult for beginners look easy. I picked up a number of different tips from this video alone. Great work!
Tempest20 5 months ago
What is the brand/model of soldering iron you're using in this video? It seems the tip is very effective. I keep getting cheapo soldering irons too. I've ordered some expensive Kester .031 63/37 and am hoping it'll help with my soldering jobs too. How about flux? Where can I buy flux and is flux the same as rosin? Sorry for all the questions, but I wanna learn!
GuyWithGuitars1 5 months ago
Does that rock music play all day in the lab? :p
TableWolfMusic 5 months ago 3
Whats the best iron for soldering components onto PCB's? I have ruined 2 classic Mac computer logic boards trying to replace the SM caps with electrolytics. It'd work great too - just bend the legs of the electrolytics into feet and solder them on the SM's old pads but NOTHING ever melts fast enough and I end up burning then pulling up the old solder pad. Suggest please an affordable ($20-$40) soldering pencil. I've ordered some Kester 63/37 too.
GuyWithGuitars1 5 months ago
@GuyWithGuitars1 Are you sure that that the surface is clean? If it is an old board there may be a lot of oxidation, and the solder will not stick to the oxidized surface.
bullvalene 3 months ago
@bullvalene I kind of got the hang of it now. The trick is DEFINITELY preparation and making sure the surface and iron is as clean as they can be. Using flux and tinning the ends of the caps made all the difference too.
GuyWithGuitars1 3 months ago
@GuyWithGuitars1
Well done ! You have learned the number 1 fundamental. Surface preparation and tinning but minimize your dwell time. Only enough heat to tin or create your solder fillet and then get off of it and do not reflow unless absolutely necessary or you can invoke "thermal stress" to the IC which can promote latent failure.
jkgamm041 3 months ago
@jkgamm041 Thanks. I blew out a couple motherboards by making mistakes, but thanks to your vids I am pretty confident now. I really enjoy bringing vintage computers back to life by replacing SMD caps.
GuyWithGuitars1 3 months ago
The music ruled.
Dimerah 5 months ago
i can solder in my sleep.
starbearer76 5 months ago
does this type of work pay decently, and is there a demand for it? I'm pretty steady handed and good with fine details. I'm interested in doing something like this.
BlayzedBlue 5 months ago
If anyone can help. Im going to buy a new iron because mine is gone at this stage. Any recommendations ? Also what is that copper like strip used in the video :O ? thanks :D
munkeeblue 5 months ago
What is added with the brush?
eduardogto64 5 months ago
First of all I have to say that your soldering is awesome!.
I have recently started in electronics and am finding the desoldering more difficult than the soldering to be honest. Am i correct in thinking that the flux you use in this video does not require cleaning after the soldering is complete?
Is it possible to use a standard brazing flux like you use on copper pipe providing it is cleaned off afterwards or does it have to be specialised for electronics?
Many thanks
leezygeezer 5 months ago
@muskypucker I do not believe your soldering sucks. I have had discouraged students in the past in your same situation. You are probably using a poor iron, oxidized tip and I have no idea what alloys you are using for your . You may not being using the proper tip and your technique may be incorrect or a combination thereof.
How can you develop if you have not been professionally trained ?
jkgamm041 5 months ago
@jkgamm041 the tip of the iron should be clean enough to give a nice shine. if it gets dull or dirty looking then it will not transfer heat efficiently. you can clean it on a wet sponge and most importantly keep it clean by leaving the whole tip tinned between uses.
nyge23 4 months ago
Great beautiful and amazing video!!! simply perfect work.-
elsamky 5 months ago
How do you bend stranded wire tips so cleanly? Every time I do, it turns into a mess and expands out too wide.
xSublemon 6 months ago
what type of solderin tip is that?
than ks
Albinorama 6 months ago
john, what is the diametter of the bevel tip you guys using?
tiagofumo 7 months ago
Ah, but the one thing you didn't show how to do is how to get around the problem of not having 3 or 4 hands, that seems to be the only place I struggle :P
KX36 7 months ago
@KX36 there is a third hand device on his workbench... he also uses kapton tape sometimes to hold the ICS in place.
tiagofumo 7 months ago
Best hardcore "Electronics Geek Porn" I've seen in a long time. Wow!
FlyByPC 8 months ago
at 3:24 MUST EMPTY LIFE SAVINGS TO PURCHASE GEEK TOYNESS
mbs306 8 months ago
Ước gi...
cutyhamchoi98 8 months ago
what brand of solder wick do you use\ recommand ?
idoaricha1 8 months ago
@jkgamm041
is there a risk to electrolytic capacitors being blown up with pre-heating? how effective is pre-heating when working with a board with many ECs?
CarlosR0driguez 8 months ago
this is awesome !!! i want to learn electronics right now !!!
liquidus2172 8 months ago
what is the name of soundtrack?
alastis95 8 months ago
what is this liquid that passes before the solder??
maxellmxl 8 months ago
@maxellmxl It's called Flux. Solder normally has a flux core but using some liquid or flux paste makes a job a whole lot easier.
cypherf0x 8 months ago
@cypherf0x thanks !!
=D
maxellmxl 8 months ago
i want to leado that.
harritaco 8 months ago
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jaideepranka 8 months ago
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3speks 9 months ago
what are they using before they put solder on?
jrosas88 9 months ago
@jrosas88
Its called flux. Usually it is a resin based stuff that helps remove the oxides from the surfaces of metals letting the solder bond with the metal. It is activated with heat. Heat makes it boil, when it boils it removes the oxides and then solder bonds great. Usually solder contains some flux in it and this is why it can bond with metallic surfaces without you using extra. But if you need reliable bonds you always use extra flux.
babylonxgr 9 months ago
@jrosas88
The liquid in the syringe is a no-clean high solids tacky flux. Flux is activated by heat. It is a chemical cleaning agent which removes mild to medium oxides and prevents re-oxidation. The flux also reduces surface tension allowing the solder to wet rapidly to create the metallurgical bond.
jkgamm041 9 months ago 11
@jkgamm041 can u used the same flux they use for pluming and soldering pipes together etc?
binashraf 9 months ago
@binashraf The flux for plumbing is more of a paste than a liquid. I asume you could use it but it would take more than it was worth!
trueslugger 8 months ago
@jrosas88 It's called FLUX.
JonTheChron 7 months ago
I would like to have a job like this. What is the requirements for this kind of job? Would i need a bachelor's degree for this? What would this job be named?
Thanks, EduardoGTO64
eduardogto64 9 months ago
Way better than the Chinese work.
heroineworshipper 9 months ago
Great footage and awesome soundtrack.
By a clear mile the most informative soldering video that i've seen.
greg16266 9 months ago 4
@greg16266
Thank you.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
@greg16266
I thought it could have used a little experimental jazz frankly.
Samsgarden 6 months ago
I have been using Kesters 951. I am using a aoyue 968 station. I am working with lead free existing solder. I believe i need to use a pre-heater on some removal. I had some bridged points and my iron on max temps could barley wet the existing surface.
charcoal85 9 months ago
@charcoal85
For all viewers, the key to efficient lead-free soldering with minimum thermal stress: Pre-heating
I recommend a max of 150 to 200 degrees F. Pre-heat minimizes thermal stress. It reduces dwell time and you can reduce your tip temp as well by 25 - 50 degrees and still achieve excellent wetting with a true metallurgical bond. Pre-heat will allow the lead-free to wet like butter and pull bridges very quickly. I guarantee it.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
@jkgamm041
hi, i've always heard people saying great things about pre-heating but i haven't jumped in that bandwagon out of fear of electrolytic capacitors (especially the cheap ones) blowing up. i work mainly with computer motherboards and video cards and they tend to have many big ECs. it seems you have experience with pre-heating, i've been having the same issues with lead-free solder, please enlighten me!
CarlosR0driguez 8 months ago
@jkgamm041
is there a risk to electrolytic capacitors being blown up with pre-heating? how effective is pre-heating when working with a board with many ECs?
CarlosR0driguez 8 months ago
Hey John, I see the use of solder wick is often used after the initial tin for you're target, why is this precisely? Some of them look like they won't have an excess in the final joint.
Regards from AZ.
catatonicprime 9 months ago
@catatonicprime
NASA-STD-8739.3 Soldered Electrical Connections, which is one of the standards that I train people in has a requirement for tinning the leads to promote solderability.
Many terminals have some percentage of oxidation or contaminants which will amalgamate with the solder fillet and affect structural integrity through an inferior metallurgical bond. If terminals, through-hole and surface mount leads are tinned, the wicking removes the contaminants and promotes high reliability.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
@jkgamm041 Ah, that makes perfect sense - I was aware that the fluxing during tinning 'cleaned' it up, but I suppose I never really thought about where the contaminants went. Thanks for the speedy response and I feel my level in soldering has just increased by +1. =D
catatonicprime 9 months ago
@catatonicprime
Let me clarify please that I only wick the terminals. Tinning and wicking is a NASA requirement for high reliability.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
pretty awesome stuff. Im new to it all and let me tell you there is alot of skill there to make it look that easy ha ha.
charcoal85 9 months ago
@charcoal85
You are correct. It is an acquired skill. It is not as easy as it looks. Some fundamentals:
High solids flux and preferably tacky flux. Sn63 Pb37 eutectic solder in the appropriate diameter based on your lead pitch. When I solder lead-free I prefer the use of a pre-heater as it promotes rapid wetting and the pre-heat reduces my dwell time. I prefer SN100C (nickel).
Your hand [ MUST ] apply very light pressure consistently on the leads and with very consistent speed of travel.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
hmmm really a great soldering ever , i need some help in soldering that i hv china made 40 watt soldering iron but every hour it takes tining processes and have no gud job so wud u recommend me something better in order to help me as a electro hobbyst, thnks
electrohobby 10 months ago
Great video, i also have my IPC certs, IPC Wiring Harness and IPC Soldering.
blunite545 10 months ago
best
salimkhan007 10 months ago
Great video :) What is the brand and model of the flux used at 0:27 in the movie? And what brand and model is the yellow stick flux used?
orjan123 11 months ago
I tell you... the BEST soldering guide video.
HATS OFF!
kaushixmail 11 months ago
@kaushixmail
Thank you. I would still like to go back in and touch up a few areas.
jkgamm041 11 months ago
I like it too much!
Incredible video, incredible job at all!
adilka10 11 months ago
@adilka10
Thank you for your feedback.
jkgamm041 9 months ago
It's Really Really Awesome,
I am in Taiwan and want to join your training.
Could you tell me how ?
piyushpv 11 months ago
@piyushpv
I believe that you and Taiwan would benefit very much by having our training programs available in Taiwan. Perhaps you can discuss this with Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing, Customized Training at Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, MN. His contact info is at the end of this video. We have an interest in providing training to international markets.
jkgamm041 11 months ago
i was transfixed the entire video
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merrieminchewchd 1 year ago
What is that on 0:27 (name of that)
Then On 2:57 there some kinda metal strip, what is that?
Chuckskull888 1 year ago
hay ,, what is the name of liquid flux pen ????
fargreat 1 year ago
Kool
dorslv 1 year ago
There are really useful techniques shown in this video. The drag method for SMTs is the one I prefer. Hot air sometimes is just not practical and reflow ovens can cause thermal stress. Cheers! :)
cumesoftware 1 year ago
@amartinjoe
Thank you. I try very hard to evolve in my skills. It is an ongoing path of continuous improvement. There are several parts of this video that I would like to re-do.
The pre-tinning of terminals was excessive. I have a much quicker and cleaner way to do it now. The wire on the bifurcated terminal should have been reversed going through the center. We all make errors.
The main question is: what do we do to correct them and learn from our mistakes so we improve? It's a process.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
@amartinjoe I saw a guy do that at my old work back in '98. earned him an ace linkedin recommendation from me :) and this was *after* desoldering an effective part, nobody would have known.
descore 1 year ago
Excellent video - it inspired us to upgrade our own proto-type lab so we could address TQFP's. We were using Weller(Cooper) so it took us some time to fathom out the tips we needed (hoof = spade & miniflow = gullwing). Many thanks!!
Strasseer 1 year ago
@Strasseer
When I look at performance, initial cost and cost of ownership my choice would not be Weller. I can take a Hakko FX 951 with 70 watts at the handle, compact, ultra performer, incredible thermal recovery at $250. retail, tips are $10. each with 100 microns more of plating and I will put that up against any Weller and out perform it with ease, guaranteed.
My professional advice as a Certified IPC Trainer, I will only purchase Hakko and Metcal.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
Do you guys use SN100e? Is there anything better in your opinion?
LauxHawk 1 year ago
@LauxHawk
Yes. In our lead-free training we use SN100e (Tin, Copper, Cobalt) by Qualitek. My preference is SN100e or SN100c (Nickel). I don't like SAC alloy as it disturbs me to look at a fillet that looks like it is cold, increased wetting contact angles, porous, matte, grainy, etc...
SN100e is the best for hand soldering in my opinion but for SMT lines like MYDATA MY9, 12, 100 and others, SAC alloy is currently a best manufacturing practice as the profiles are the easiest to control.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
@jkgamm041 Thank you.
LauxHawk 1 year ago
I would love to do one of your courses but I live in Ireland darn !!
donnyab 1 year ago
Very Inspiring
MrApel 1 year ago
excellent.
God bless.
tommyandtammy1 1 year ago
Thank you very much.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
Excellent video, I love it. Thank you for posting. I would like to know two things: are classes being offered at Dakota County College? If so, where is it listed under. Also would greatly appreciate it if you could tell us more on how to obtain the Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502. They are the "secret sauce". Once again...thank you.
popcorn4two 1 year ago
Dakota County Technical College is located in Rosemount, MN. Classes are being offered at the college.
Contact Larry Raddatz, Director of Manufacturing. (651) 423-8276. Google: DCTC soldering.
I only train through the college in the state of MN. I will however travel out of state for personal one on one training and will transfer many of my skills to you in hand soldering. IPC certification in A-610 and J-Standard is available and very reasonable.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
Gee whiz Wally - looks like the course in precision soldering I taught in the 80's in the USAF with all the barrel and turret connections, didnt think those were used anymore but there must be if they are still teaching it. Beautiful soldering, the way it should be done. Too bad the Chinese work so darn cheap that there's little if any work in this field in the US anymore.
rhblakeman 1 year ago
what is white pen with yellow head? Any one know?
vniikstar 1 year ago
soldring gurus
80amnesia 1 year ago
What a great demonstration - this inspires me to put aside my fears of working with SM components due to lack of experience.
adisharr 1 year ago
what's that wonderful stuff that's being squirted next to the chip and where can i get some?it's some kind of desolder gew?
speedon68 1 year ago
Kester Tacky Flux TSF-6502, a no-clean tack flux formula that possesses a high activity level, allowing it to solder nickel surfaces. Resembles Chemtronix No-Clean RMA high solids tack flux. Both are top performers.
Flux is a chemical cleaning agent which facilitates soldering by removing oxidation from the metals to be joined. Flux is also a wetting agent used to lower the surface tension of molten solder allowing improved wetting of the solder over the substrate.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
Thank you for this great video !
zekaBGboy 1 year ago
this is art! Very beautiful!
dumyyyyyy 1 year ago
Terrific. What an excellent video. I would like to be that good at soldering.
oifex 2 years ago 2
This is top quality stuff. Thanks for the link to this video! I have nothing but good stuff to say about this, just simply amazing work! Just a question about the clip - is that a camera placed over the PCB to show the work on the monitor? Never seen that before, but it sure looks easier on the eyes!!
coolboarder44 2 years ago 12
@coolboarder44
Thank you for your support.
jkgamm041 1 year ago
Awesome! Is it some kind of mini/micro wave soldering tip?
vimaxman 2 years ago
Great article, you make it look too easy.
Rocket976 2 years ago
What is your tip temp?
Kester recommends 600F for lead bearing soldering.
But I find that lowering the tip temp to 550F or even 500F doesn't affect wetting and spreading too much but smoke is reduced dramatically.
What is your opinion on tip temperature?
diycore 2 years ago
Excellent comment !
I recommend 550F - 600F. If you can achieve acceptable wetting which produced a true metallurgical bond between 500 - 550 then I have to support the use of lower heat. More heat and additional reflow does affect high reliability. Components are thermally sensitive. 63/37 tin/lead by Kester has a eutectic melting point of 361F. My recommendation is 550 - 600 for tin/lead and 650 - 700 max for lead free. keep that tip tinned !
jkgamm041 2 years ago 2
Wowlie moley Thats some nice gear there. Does such a beautiful job too :D Like that flux!
rbland 2 years ago
Thank you. I cross train my students on different brands of equipment. It is important to share the following with you.
A soldering station, irregardless of the brand, is nothing more than a heat source. They generally perform the same.
Any student of mine can achieve identical Class 3 work using any brand of equipment by simply using the same techniques, temperature, similar tips, similar flux and solder. You don't need nice gear to do what I do. I can do this with a Weller WES51 analog.
jkgamm041 2 years ago
That was nicest soldering video what I have ever seen! Great job!
flesknava 2 years ago 18
@flesknava
Thank you.
jkgamm041 1 year ago