i have a craftsman 4.5 hp mower with a tecumseh engine. i put a carb kit in it and it pours gas out of the air intake where the air cleaner hooks up and pours from around the bowl untill the fuel tank is empty. could you tell me how to fix this
@1990mechaniconduty You have to make sure the seat goes in the correct way. The side with the ridge needs to be down in the fuel intake side. Whats happening is the needle isn't seating right and its allowing fuel to just poor in. Also, check to make sure your float doesn't have any fluid in it. If it does, your float is shot.
@1990mechaniconduty If it looks like it was flattened with a hammer, it probably does have a pin hole in the float. Usually around the seal. $3 for a new one. Just replace it.
@ 3:57 i took that button off and am having hell getting it back on. Is it needed or can i leave it off? What exactly does it do because it just has two inlets which lead to the same place. Thanks.
@DRMusicRoom I belive that "button" you are referring to is called a welch plug. Almost 100% of the time, they never need to be replaced. If you did remove it, you will certainly have to replace it because that is what regulates your air fuel mixture. Those need to be pressed into place, and unless you have a shop press, you will need to take it somewhere to have it done.
I destroyed the "seat" for the needle thinking it was crap that clogged up my fuel line, which it was the case, but now i'm out of a seat! I was thinking of putting a washer around the needle. Does anyone think that would work?
In the tecumseh 8 - 10 hp cast iron engine manual it says the vitron seal aka the seat is supposed to be ridge side up so that the needle seats on the ridge side. either way though it looks like it would work. I put mine ridge side up and it works np.
@Keith1212ofxbox360 The manual I have says the ridge needs to be facing downward. But, this is a 5hp Tecumseh. Maybe on the larger engine, it needs to be flipped, I'm not sure. I'm just going based on how I have done it for 16 years and what the manual is saying.
@mbyr31 ah that makes sense. It was just referring to the tecumseh carb that I have and like the one you got. Anyways I hope I didn't offend you I know you know what ur doing. :P I just thought I'd mention. take care
Hey, just a question on the black screw with a spring on the side of the carb. I replaced that (part of my carb kit) and am not sure if that screws in all the way,part way, or even what it is for. Thanks for any help. Thanks for the vid.
@mojohnney That screw on the side is the low idle mixture. You screw it in all the way (don't tighten it though) and then back it off 1 1/4 turns. This will give you the factory preset. You may have to do additional adjusting, but at least it will start and run.
Hey I just cleaned up a carb identical to the one you have rebuilt. I am having a hard time with the float, it seems that when the bowl is tightened on to the carb it obstructs the float from opening. I see the bowl has area on one side to allow the float to fall enough to open the needle I have oriented that bowl area in a way that will give the float room but still now luck. I finally made it work by bending the tab on the float that pulls the needle down. This may cause a rich condition Help
@tcskibike The deep part of the bowl is where the float drops in to. You want the shallow side of the bowl by the float pin.
As far as bending the tab, you should not have to do that, unless it was previously messed with. You should be able to install the float, hold the carb with the float side facing up, and the float should appear level. If it does not appear level, it will need some adjusting.
@slippery396 The bottom screw gets threaded in all the way, then you back it off 1 and a half turns. Thats the "original factory settings". You may still have to adjust it a little by ear. Hope that helps!
I CHANGED THE FLOAT,NEEDLE AND SEAT BUT NOW IT WILL ONLY START WITH STARTING FLUID AND I HAVE TO REV THE MOTOR REAL HIGH IN ORDER FOR IT TO STAY ON IT WONT STAY AT IDLE SPEED.THANKS FOR THE HELP
@MrRutless1 Make sure that you have all your adjustments adjusted correctly. The main jet and if you have a idle circuit, check that too. Also, it is very important to replace all the gaskets that connect the carb to the intake tube (if you just took the carb off that) or the gaskets going from the engine to the intake tube. (I mean between them). If nothing seems to work, it is a good possibility you have a bad carburetor. Hope that helps man
From the Lawn Mower Repair Man's site: "Another tip that is just for Tecumseh is how the needle is hung from the float.The wire clip that connects the float needle to the float is what is of concern here. The open end of the wire that hangs from the float must aim towards the air intake or air filter side of the carb. If it's pointing toward the engine side, the needle won't center correctly and may leak. This makes absolutely no sense to me but it's an advisory fromTecumseh I picked up
hey! MY CARB WORKS FINE BUT LEAKS FROM BELLOW AND THROUGH THE AIR FILTER SIDE IM NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS IM THINKING ITS THE FOAT BOWL CAN ANY BODY HELP ME?
Hi there, I have a tecumseh engine on a Ariens 845E snowblower. ITs only 2 years old and stopped working. I saw your video and like it. I opened up my carburettor and everything was clean. I put everything back together. I dont know what the screw on the side is for, i believe its an air intake control, but i tightened it completely. If I push the prime bulb about 7 times, I can start the engine on the first pull, however the engine runs only for about 2 seconds and stops. What can i do?
@macvideoworld You need to back that screw of 1 1/4 turns. That will give it the factory setting. You can adjust it again after you get it started and running. Hope that helps!
some of these tecumseh carbs have a metering valve that is inside the casting and when they get pluged up and don`t slide freely no amount of cleaning will fix it....
if you shake the carburator after you disassembled and can`t hear a rattle , back and fourth, most likely it is stuck and will not be rebuildible....not all tecumseh carbs have this metering valve....it maybe easier to spend the money on a new carburator
@PGXI You are absolutely right. I had one of those on a 2 cycle snow blower I worked on. I've learned sometimes its just best to replace the carb rather than mess with it. This one here though, as soon as I cleaned it all up, ran great, and I sold it for a really good price.
Hi, I have a Toro 421 that I have pulled apart and cleaned the carb, however not getting fuel into the engine...new gas, new plug, the fuel valve is open, the bowl has fuel in it (i have the carb with the purge button, so i know there's fuel from the tank; new gas and when i put a small amount of fuel in the plug chamber, it starts, however only as long as it burns the fuel i put in - any ideas? Thanks!!!
@AndrewA12A Well, diagnosing over the internet is a difficult task. When you cleaned the carb, did you make sure all adjustments were made? Are there adjustment screws on that model? You definitely have a carb issue, but what exactly it is, is difficult at best. Those are about the only suggestions I have. I don't know exactly how you cleaned it... Did you replace all gaskets too?
@mbyr31 Thanks for your reply - I replaced the bowl gasket, everything else looked very good/clean - was runnung great last year. I adjusted the screw on the bottom of the bowl to 1.5 turns out from full...any others adjustments you think can help get fuel into the engine?
@AndrewA12A Then it would seem to me as if you have a plugged main jet some how, or you carburetor is faulty. More than not, it has something to do with the fuel inlet tube and main jet. See if there may be an adjustment screw on the side of the carb. If there is, adjust that one too (that is your low speed circuit, if equipped). That one usually gets adjusted 1 1/4 turns out. Sometimes you need to let the carbs soak overnight. Hopefully that will solve your problem.
@AndrewA12A Well, the fuel inlet tube is in the middle of the carburetor body. It is in the hole that the main jet threads through. There is probably something blocking the fuel from getting up there.
These engines have had carb problems for eternity and the float always has a leak in them. Acetone cleans that crud off easily and rinse it with the spray cleaner... If you use fuel stabilizer you don't have the crud when your machine comes out of storage.
@dollman0 The problem is tecumsehs design. They get moisture in them because of their location. This came off a snow blower I didn't store. I always put a stabalizer in all my engines when I store them.
I have a 421 that I just recently got and it turns out theirs gas leaking down the bowl and I'm wondering, are the carbs on all these engines basically the same? and where can i get a rebuild kit?
@MDizzel16 Well, if you have fuel leaking, is it after you prime it? Or is it occuring at all times? The carbs on all tecumseh snow blower engines are about the same... Only differences is how it mounts to the engine. As far as a rebuild kit, they can be purchased from any small engine or outdoor power equipment repair facility. I usually get mine from the local john deere dealership. Hope that helps bud
@mbyr31 Its just steadily leaking, you think it could just be a seal? I know its kind of hard to diagnose over the internet, thanks for the speedy reply!
@MDizzel16 If its just steadily leaking, it's most likely your float bowl gasket. You don't have to remove the carb to replace that. Tip the machine on its front, remove the main jet nut underneath, remove the bowl and replace the gasket. While you have it apart, clean the main jet and make sure there is no sediment in the bowl area. You should be good to go! Just remember to turn off the gas before you do that or you could end up with a mess.
@mbyr31 I'll have to try that! Although leaning a 1980 Toro 421 on its front and keeping it there might be easier said than done because they sure are heavy machines. Thanks so much for the reply, I'm hoping its just that, or I am going to be rebuilding my first carb.
@MDizzel16 They're not that heavy, and if you have the flat auger box, it's super easy. If you have the half round auger box, just use a jack stand, and have someone help you.
I have a couple vids on here besides this one on how to rebuild these carbs....They are not difficult at all
I have a 1984 Toro TNT100 engine whose carby is gummed up. I don't know the exact reason why, but my dad attributes it to be a deteriorating primer bulb. It is part #632050A (use #632795A to replace).
Thank you Brother, I am working on a Massey Ferguson MF 10, 1958 model I think. Your video helped me get it a little closer to running. I own a shop down here in Ga. If you ever need rare parts or think I may be able to help you out in any way feel free to contact me.
@mrdaltonsheets1 What I do is I take the carb cleaner spray and shoot it in there. Let it soak a minute, and then blow it out with compressed air. There really is nothing to that port, all it really does is just provide the bowl with the right amount of pressure to allow the fuel to drawn up through the venturi. On a carb with a primer bulb, it forces air through that passage to in turn force fuel into the throat of the carb to be sucked into the engine. Hope that helps man
Most Tecumseh's have the idle screw on the side, on most of the newer engines it is under a black or white plug lose the plug, the idle screw is similar to the main jet but one hole running into the screw at the end and one hole running across if these are not clean and clear the engine will surge and run like crap. Idle screw screws all the way down - no adjustment-
I have a '72 7hp 2-stroke Tecumseh motor on my outboard, and water got in over the winter and helped plug it up. I got it running and running pretty good, but it spits gas out the side and seems to be flooding after only a few mintues of running. I noticed that the hinge for the float got corroded and is allowing the float to stick, and/or not move properly. Do you think this could be causing the carb to spit gas and make the motor run odd? Thanks, and great video, it helped me out a lot!
@LoveMyZJ Yeah... If your float is sticking, especially in the open position, you're going to be throwing fuel all over the place. It will never run right. The best thing to do is just rebuild it man. Its generally easy and quick, and should solve the fuel issues.
Tecumseh's seem to be okay, its just their carbs that let them down. Older Tecumseh's are great, just as good as Briggs, and I have to admit they sound better. A spider web in the carburetor?! LOL!
Tecumseh has always had a problem with their fuel systems. I heard once it was because of the location of the float being at the lowest point of the engine or something like that. Personnally, I just think it's a bad design. It's almost like the Tecumseh carb attracts water!! LOL
@mbyr31 Yeah I think so too, I mean the only things that go wrong with Briggs carburetors is the diaphragm might go bad after like 5 years, but they're cheap and you can replace them in like 20 minutes. You just gotta remember how to hook up the governor!
how importent is putting the seat in the right way i re did my carb but it still runs like shit i know i put the seat in the wrong way but will it make it run bad
It could because it could be flooding. The way the seat is designed with a taper allows the needle to sit in there and correctly stop the flow of fuel passing through. It's a simple fix really. Just take some compressed air and in the fuel inlet blow air. In most cases it just pops out, just make sure you have your finger over the top so you don't lose it. Then, just reinstall so that the ring is facing downwards.
A bad needle and seat is the only possible explanation. The best thing to do is two things. First, rebuild the carb and instal a new needle and seat. Second, instal an inline fuel shutoff valve on the fuel line. This is good practice anyways just to help save the carburetor during non-seasonal storage.
omg omg i need to know cuz i guess the guy i buyed my go kart from lost the needle and the carb spirts out gas can that be why???? cuz i dont have the pin in it
It could be a big reason. If you have no needle, the fuel just keeps coming in and flooding everything out. You need to remove the carb and replace the needle and seat
great instructoral video man, I Am also very knowledgeable about small engines too, and I learned a few things. What I like to use sometimes is a wire wheel to clean up the main jet need and bolt.works great, Say ever tried GUNK Carb cleaner? Comes in big 1 gallon pales, seems to work pretty good. I have the same engine and snowblower, toro 521, It wont idle with out 3/4 choke, wont run on high with out come revving. Idk whats going on, vacume leak sound like it? (Adjusting it does nothing)
@fordwillkillyou has great compression and spark also. But I'm a briggs man though, I have Briggs and Stratton engine mastered for the most part. Tecumsehs are tricky.
Thanks man!! I usually just use an SOS pad to clean up the needle and main jet bolt.
As far as GUNK carb cleaner, if I need to soak a carburetor I use that stuff, otherwise I just use regular spray cleaner.
As far as the choke thing, check all gaskets. If you have even a slight leak, you won't be able to run it wide open cause the engine can only suck in so much air. Unless of course you rich it up a bit!!
I have the same carb on my snowblower...What is the correct height to adjust the float to? It was setup so the float was almost all the way at the top of the carb before it seated. I adjusted it to seat when it was level with the carb but the thing doesn't want to start. It seems like it is getting gas as I can smell it in the air when cranking on it. It has good spark and I started by adjusting the bottom bowl screw out 1 & 1/2 turns and the idle mix out 1 & 1/2 any suggestions? thanks
If the float is level, that will be fine. You need to make sure that all the passages are cleaned out and that (if equipped) your primer hose is connected and functioning. You basicly need to spray carb cleaner in every hole in the carb, soak it, and blow out with compressed air. Make sure the bowl gasket is seated correctly. Inspect the carb for any damage.
If that doesn't fix your problem, you may just have a bad carb. Although, that is unlikely.. Keep me posted!
Turns out the float needle in the rebuild kit is bigger and the tip isn't as sharp as the original needle. I put the original float needle back in and the thing fired right up. Thanks for the help. The weird thing is this was a techumseh rebuild kit for this carb model but why would they put that other needle in it. Then I saw the made in China sticker. heh :)
Thanks man!! As far as removing that seat, you get a hook and pick set, but use the pick only. You stick it down there and try to break it loose. After you get it loose, you should be able to just blow compressed air through the inlet and it should FLY out!!! LOL. Hope you don't need it again!!! Next one I rebuild, I'll try to get video of. I have a couple coming up here.
It cleaned up nice though!! I wish I would have gotten some shots of that, but I didn't. I just uploaded a video showing this thing running though!! It should be up in about a half hour or so!!
i have a craftsman 4.5 hp mower with a tecumseh engine. i put a carb kit in it and it pours gas out of the air intake where the air cleaner hooks up and pours from around the bowl untill the fuel tank is empty. could you tell me how to fix this
1990mechaniconduty 2 weeks ago
@1990mechaniconduty You have to make sure the seat goes in the correct way. The side with the ridge needs to be down in the fuel intake side. Whats happening is the needle isn't seating right and its allowing fuel to just poor in. Also, check to make sure your float doesn't have any fluid in it. If it does, your float is shot.
Hope that helps man.
mbyr31 2 weeks ago
@mbyr31 the float looks like it has been hit with a hammer ill try that and see if it works thnx for the info
1990mechaniconduty 2 weeks ago
@1990mechaniconduty If it looks like it was flattened with a hammer, it probably does have a pin hole in the float. Usually around the seal. $3 for a new one. Just replace it.
mbyr31 2 weeks ago
@ 3:57 i took that button off and am having hell getting it back on. Is it needed or can i leave it off? What exactly does it do because it just has two inlets which lead to the same place. Thanks.
DRMusicRoom 1 month ago
@DRMusicRoom I belive that "button" you are referring to is called a welch plug. Almost 100% of the time, they never need to be replaced. If you did remove it, you will certainly have to replace it because that is what regulates your air fuel mixture. Those need to be pressed into place, and unless you have a shop press, you will need to take it somewhere to have it done.
I hope that helps man.
mbyr31 1 month ago
I destroyed the "seat" for the needle thinking it was crap that clogged up my fuel line, which it was the case, but now i'm out of a seat! I was thinking of putting a washer around the needle. Does anyone think that would work?
DRMusicRoom 1 month ago
@DRMusicRoom No..A washer will not work. A needle and seat gasket kit for these engines are about 5 bucks.
mbyr31 1 month ago
In the tecumseh 8 - 10 hp cast iron engine manual it says the vitron seal aka the seat is supposed to be ridge side up so that the needle seats on the ridge side. either way though it looks like it would work. I put mine ridge side up and it works np.
Keith1212ofxbox360 2 months ago
@Keith1212ofxbox360 The manual I have says the ridge needs to be facing downward. But, this is a 5hp Tecumseh. Maybe on the larger engine, it needs to be flipped, I'm not sure. I'm just going based on how I have done it for 16 years and what the manual is saying.
Thanks much man!
mbyr31 2 months ago
@mbyr31 ah that makes sense. It was just referring to the tecumseh carb that I have and like the one you got. Anyways I hope I didn't offend you I know you know what ur doing. :P I just thought I'd mention. take care
Keith1212ofxbox360 2 months ago
Hey, just a question on the black screw with a spring on the side of the carb. I replaced that (part of my carb kit) and am not sure if that screws in all the way,part way, or even what it is for. Thanks for any help. Thanks for the vid.
mojohnney 2 months ago
@mojohnney That screw on the side is the low idle mixture. You screw it in all the way (don't tighten it though) and then back it off 1 1/4 turns. This will give you the factory preset. You may have to do additional adjusting, but at least it will start and run.
Thanks for watching!
mbyr31 2 months ago
Hey I just cleaned up a carb identical to the one you have rebuilt. I am having a hard time with the float, it seems that when the bowl is tightened on to the carb it obstructs the float from opening. I see the bowl has area on one side to allow the float to fall enough to open the needle I have oriented that bowl area in a way that will give the float room but still now luck. I finally made it work by bending the tab on the float that pulls the needle down. This may cause a rich condition Help
tcskibike 4 months ago
@tcskibike The deep part of the bowl is where the float drops in to. You want the shallow side of the bowl by the float pin.
As far as bending the tab, you should not have to do that, unless it was previously messed with. You should be able to install the float, hold the carb with the float side facing up, and the float should appear level. If it does not appear level, it will need some adjusting.
I hope that helps man!
mbyr31 4 months ago
What is the adjustment setting for the bottom screw ?
slippery396 4 months ago
@slippery396 The bottom screw gets threaded in all the way, then you back it off 1 and a half turns. Thats the "original factory settings". You may still have to adjust it a little by ear. Hope that helps!
mbyr31 4 months ago
@mbyr31 Thank you very much !!
slippery396 4 months ago
Haha, I about died when he said, "Look at all that shit," lol
absatterly07 4 months ago
3:03 you sound like my grandpa after he sneezes lol
ror3dracer01 11 months ago
lol after seeing this vid theres probly a freaking forest in my carb let alone the cylynders
ror3dracer01 11 months ago
I CHANGED THE FLOAT,NEEDLE AND SEAT BUT NOW IT WILL ONLY START WITH STARTING FLUID AND I HAVE TO REV THE MOTOR REAL HIGH IN ORDER FOR IT TO STAY ON IT WONT STAY AT IDLE SPEED.THANKS FOR THE HELP
MrRutless1 1 year ago
@MrRutless1 Make sure that you have all your adjustments adjusted correctly. The main jet and if you have a idle circuit, check that too. Also, it is very important to replace all the gaskets that connect the carb to the intake tube (if you just took the carb off that) or the gaskets going from the engine to the intake tube. (I mean between them). If nothing seems to work, it is a good possibility you have a bad carburetor. Hope that helps man
mbyr31 1 year ago
From the Lawn Mower Repair Man's site: "Another tip that is just for Tecumseh is how the needle is hung from the float.The wire clip that connects the float needle to the float is what is of concern here. The open end of the wire that hangs from the float must aim towards the air intake or air filter side of the carb. If it's pointing toward the engine side, the needle won't center correctly and may leak. This makes absolutely no sense to me but it's an advisory fromTecumseh I picked up
vickeydimples 10 months ago
@MrRutless1 SAME PROBLEM!
Rord14 6 months ago
hey! MY CARB WORKS FINE BUT LEAKS FROM BELLOW AND THROUGH THE AIR FILTER SIDE IM NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS IM THINKING ITS THE FOAT BOWL CAN ANY BODY HELP ME?
MrRutless1 1 year ago
@MrRutless1 take the float out and shake it next to your ear listen for liquid
inside if there is liquid inside replace it. also replace the needle and seat its cheap and only takes a min.
it gurantees you no problems. hope it helps.
bobby8926 1 year ago
Hi there, I have a tecumseh engine on a Ariens 845E snowblower. ITs only 2 years old and stopped working. I saw your video and like it. I opened up my carburettor and everything was clean. I put everything back together. I dont know what the screw on the side is for, i believe its an air intake control, but i tightened it completely. If I push the prime bulb about 7 times, I can start the engine on the first pull, however the engine runs only for about 2 seconds and stops. What can i do?
macvideoworld 1 year ago
@macvideoworld You need to back that screw of 1 1/4 turns. That will give it the factory setting. You can adjust it again after you get it started and running. Hope that helps!
mbyr31 1 year ago
thanks mbyr31...you did a nice job on get that carb cleaned up i love watching these small engine video`s
PGXI 1 year ago
@PGXI I appreciate that! Thank You!
mbyr31 1 year ago
some of these tecumseh carbs have a metering valve that is inside the casting and when they get pluged up and don`t slide freely no amount of cleaning will fix it....
if you shake the carburator after you disassembled and can`t hear a rattle , back and fourth, most likely it is stuck and will not be rebuildible....not all tecumseh carbs have this metering valve....it maybe easier to spend the money on a new carburator
PGXI 1 year ago
@PGXI You are absolutely right. I had one of those on a 2 cycle snow blower I worked on. I've learned sometimes its just best to replace the carb rather than mess with it. This one here though, as soon as I cleaned it all up, ran great, and I sold it for a really good price.
Thanks for watching!
mbyr31 1 year ago
Hi, I have a Toro 421 that I have pulled apart and cleaned the carb, however not getting fuel into the engine...new gas, new plug, the fuel valve is open, the bowl has fuel in it (i have the carb with the purge button, so i know there's fuel from the tank; new gas and when i put a small amount of fuel in the plug chamber, it starts, however only as long as it burns the fuel i put in - any ideas? Thanks!!!
AndrewA12A 1 year ago
@AndrewA12A Well, diagnosing over the internet is a difficult task. When you cleaned the carb, did you make sure all adjustments were made? Are there adjustment screws on that model? You definitely have a carb issue, but what exactly it is, is difficult at best. Those are about the only suggestions I have. I don't know exactly how you cleaned it... Did you replace all gaskets too?
mbyr31 1 year ago
@mbyr31 Thanks for your reply - I replaced the bowl gasket, everything else looked very good/clean - was runnung great last year. I adjusted the screw on the bottom of the bowl to 1.5 turns out from full...any others adjustments you think can help get fuel into the engine?
AndrewA12A 1 year ago
@AndrewA12A Then it would seem to me as if you have a plugged main jet some how, or you carburetor is faulty. More than not, it has something to do with the fuel inlet tube and main jet. See if there may be an adjustment screw on the side of the carb. If there is, adjust that one too (that is your low speed circuit, if equipped). That one usually gets adjusted 1 1/4 turns out. Sometimes you need to let the carbs soak overnight. Hopefully that will solve your problem.
mbyr31 1 year ago
@mbyr31 Thanks, I'll give it a try.
AndrewA12A 1 year ago
@mbyr31 can you please tell me where the fuel inlet tube is?
AndrewA12A 1 year ago
@AndrewA12A Well, the fuel inlet tube is in the middle of the carburetor body. It is in the hole that the main jet threads through. There is probably something blocking the fuel from getting up there.
mbyr31 1 year ago
Thanks for posting this !
garyb2006 1 year ago
@garyb2006 Thanks for watching!
mbyr31 1 year ago
These engines have had carb problems for eternity and the float always has a leak in them. Acetone cleans that crud off easily and rinse it with the spray cleaner... If you use fuel stabilizer you don't have the crud when your machine comes out of storage.
dollman0 1 year ago
@dollman0 The problem is tecumsehs design. They get moisture in them because of their location. This came off a snow blower I didn't store. I always put a stabalizer in all my engines when I store them.
Thanks man
mbyr31 1 year ago
I have a 421 that I just recently got and it turns out theirs gas leaking down the bowl and I'm wondering, are the carbs on all these engines basically the same? and where can i get a rebuild kit?
MDizzel16 1 year ago
@MDizzel16 Well, if you have fuel leaking, is it after you prime it? Or is it occuring at all times? The carbs on all tecumseh snow blower engines are about the same... Only differences is how it mounts to the engine. As far as a rebuild kit, they can be purchased from any small engine or outdoor power equipment repair facility. I usually get mine from the local john deere dealership. Hope that helps bud
mbyr31 1 year ago
@mbyr31 Its just steadily leaking, you think it could just be a seal? I know its kind of hard to diagnose over the internet, thanks for the speedy reply!
MDizzel16 1 year ago
@MDizzel16 If its just steadily leaking, it's most likely your float bowl gasket. You don't have to remove the carb to replace that. Tip the machine on its front, remove the main jet nut underneath, remove the bowl and replace the gasket. While you have it apart, clean the main jet and make sure there is no sediment in the bowl area. You should be good to go! Just remember to turn off the gas before you do that or you could end up with a mess.
mbyr31 1 year ago
@mbyr31 I'll have to try that! Although leaning a 1980 Toro 421 on its front and keeping it there might be easier said than done because they sure are heavy machines. Thanks so much for the reply, I'm hoping its just that, or I am going to be rebuilding my first carb.
MDizzel16 1 year ago
@MDizzel16 They're not that heavy, and if you have the flat auger box, it's super easy. If you have the half round auger box, just use a jack stand, and have someone help you.
I have a couple vids on here besides this one on how to rebuild these carbs....They are not difficult at all
mbyr31 1 year ago
I have a 1984 Toro TNT100 engine whose carby is gummed up. I don't know the exact reason why, but my dad attributes it to be a deteriorating primer bulb. It is part #632050A (use #632795A to replace).
ClassicTVMan1981X 1 year ago
i wouldnt waste my time on a tejunkseh id rather get a briggs
pivotboy63 1 year ago
Thank you Brother, I am working on a Massey Ferguson MF 10, 1958 model I think. Your video helped me get it a little closer to running. I own a shop down here in Ga. If you ever need rare parts or think I may be able to help you out in any way feel free to contact me.
guitarzan927 1 year ago
@guitarzan927 I will definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for watching man. I appreciate it!
mbyr31 1 year ago
the best part was needle seat .....2nd, the ash tray of butts near all the gas and carb cleaner .....thanks for the needle info !
thecopcarconnection 1 year ago
how do i clean out that little port u said to clean at 7:58 please reply
mrdaltonsheets1 1 year ago
@mrdaltonsheets1 What I do is I take the carb cleaner spray and shoot it in there. Let it soak a minute, and then blow it out with compressed air. There really is nothing to that port, all it really does is just provide the bowl with the right amount of pressure to allow the fuel to drawn up through the venturi. On a carb with a primer bulb, it forces air through that passage to in turn force fuel into the throat of the carb to be sucked into the engine. Hope that helps man
mbyr31 1 year ago
Most Tecumseh's have the idle screw on the side, on most of the newer engines it is under a black or white plug lose the plug, the idle screw is similar to the main jet but one hole running into the screw at the end and one hole running across if these are not clean and clear the engine will surge and run like crap. Idle screw screws all the way down - no adjustment-
PUREAAMERICAN 1 year ago
I have a '72 7hp 2-stroke Tecumseh motor on my outboard, and water got in over the winter and helped plug it up. I got it running and running pretty good, but it spits gas out the side and seems to be flooding after only a few mintues of running. I noticed that the hinge for the float got corroded and is allowing the float to stick, and/or not move properly. Do you think this could be causing the carb to spit gas and make the motor run odd? Thanks, and great video, it helped me out a lot!
LoveMyZJ 1 year ago
@LoveMyZJ Yeah... If your float is sticking, especially in the open position, you're going to be throwing fuel all over the place. It will never run right. The best thing to do is just rebuild it man. Its generally easy and quick, and should solve the fuel issues.
Thanks bud!
mbyr31 1 year ago
Tecumseh's seem to be okay, its just their carbs that let them down. Older Tecumseh's are great, just as good as Briggs, and I have to admit they sound better. A spider web in the carburetor?! LOL!
MrMoterKid 1 year ago
Tecumseh has always had a problem with their fuel systems. I heard once it was because of the location of the float being at the lowest point of the engine or something like that. Personnally, I just think it's a bad design. It's almost like the Tecumseh carb attracts water!! LOL
mbyr31 1 year ago
@mbyr31 Yeah I think so too, I mean the only things that go wrong with Briggs carburetors is the diaphragm might go bad after like 5 years, but they're cheap and you can replace them in like 20 minutes. You just gotta remember how to hook up the governor!
MrMoterKid 1 year ago
how importent is putting the seat in the right way i re did my carb but it still runs like shit i know i put the seat in the wrong way but will it make it run bad
jagpit1 2 years ago
It could because it could be flooding. The way the seat is designed with a taper allows the needle to sit in there and correctly stop the flow of fuel passing through. It's a simple fix really. Just take some compressed air and in the fuel inlet blow air. In most cases it just pops out, just make sure you have your finger over the top so you don't lose it. Then, just reinstall so that the ring is facing downwards.
mbyr31 2 years ago
what would cause gas to continually flow through carb while not running
DHISKEY4U 2 years ago
A bad needle and seat is the only possible explanation. The best thing to do is two things. First, rebuild the carb and instal a new needle and seat. Second, instal an inline fuel shutoff valve on the fuel line. This is good practice anyways just to help save the carburetor during non-seasonal storage.
mbyr31 2 years ago
Is this Neal Boortz?
:)
TheSaturnV 2 years ago
just wanna know where did u get 631021b from
bboygrim043094 2 years ago
Thats probably a part #..... If you look up the model # on a tecumseh parts # lookup website, you'll find it.
mbyr31 2 years ago
omg omg i need to know cuz i guess the guy i buyed my go kart from lost the needle and the carb spirts out gas can that be why???? cuz i dont have the pin in it
bboygrim043094 2 years ago
It could be a big reason. If you have no needle, the fuel just keeps coming in and flooding everything out. You need to remove the carb and replace the needle and seat
mbyr31 2 years ago
alright thank u so much
bboygrim043094 2 years ago
great instructoral video man, I Am also very knowledgeable about small engines too, and I learned a few things. What I like to use sometimes is a wire wheel to clean up the main jet need and bolt.works great, Say ever tried GUNK Carb cleaner? Comes in big 1 gallon pales, seems to work pretty good. I have the same engine and snowblower, toro 521, It wont idle with out 3/4 choke, wont run on high with out come revving. Idk whats going on, vacume leak sound like it? (Adjusting it does nothing)
fordwillkillyou 2 years ago
@fordwillkillyou has great compression and spark also. But I'm a briggs man though, I have Briggs and Stratton engine mastered for the most part. Tecumsehs are tricky.
fordwillkillyou 2 years ago
Tecumsehs can be tricky.. Their fuel systems are probably the most difficult.
mbyr31 2 years ago
Thanks man!! I usually just use an SOS pad to clean up the needle and main jet bolt.
As far as GUNK carb cleaner, if I need to soak a carburetor I use that stuff, otherwise I just use regular spray cleaner.
As far as the choke thing, check all gaskets. If you have even a slight leak, you won't be able to run it wide open cause the engine can only suck in so much air. Unless of course you rich it up a bit!!
Thanks again man!
mbyr31 2 years ago
I have the same carb on my snowblower...What is the correct height to adjust the float to? It was setup so the float was almost all the way at the top of the carb before it seated. I adjusted it to seat when it was level with the carb but the thing doesn't want to start. It seems like it is getting gas as I can smell it in the air when cranking on it. It has good spark and I started by adjusting the bottom bowl screw out 1 & 1/2 turns and the idle mix out 1 & 1/2 any suggestions? thanks
zapfret 2 years ago
If the float is level, that will be fine. You need to make sure that all the passages are cleaned out and that (if equipped) your primer hose is connected and functioning. You basicly need to spray carb cleaner in every hole in the carb, soak it, and blow out with compressed air. Make sure the bowl gasket is seated correctly. Inspect the carb for any damage.
If that doesn't fix your problem, you may just have a bad carb. Although, that is unlikely.. Keep me posted!
mbyr31 2 years ago
Turns out the float needle in the rebuild kit is bigger and the tip isn't as sharp as the original needle. I put the original float needle back in and the thing fired right up. Thanks for the help. The weird thing is this was a techumseh rebuild kit for this carb model but why would they put that other needle in it. Then I saw the made in China sticker. heh :)
zapfret 2 years ago
They're all pretty typical as far as setup goes. I always use the new needle with the new seat. Thats what it's designed for.
Made in China!! LOL!! What isn't these days!
mbyr31 2 years ago
i need to rebuild the carb for my tecumseh
swabbster3 2 years ago
is that off a 3hp thing?
The1981DMC 2 years ago
No, it is off a 5hp thing!! LOL
mbyr31 2 years ago
i hate tecumseh, carb looks like very bad
swabbster3 2 years ago
I thought for sure the carb would be garbage... but I saved it!!! It runs REALLY good now!
mbyr31 2 years ago
cooooooool
swabbster3 2 years ago
cool, that other coment had a spelling mistake
swabbster3 2 years ago
Comment removed
swabbster3 2 years ago
Awsum vid dood. I woulda liked to see how you removed that seat tho. I have a couple carbs i need to rebuild and have wondered about the removal. 5*
Smoott69 2 years ago
Thanks man!! As far as removing that seat, you get a hook and pick set, but use the pick only. You stick it down there and try to break it loose. After you get it loose, you should be able to just blow compressed air through the inlet and it should FLY out!!! LOL. Hope you don't need it again!!! Next one I rebuild, I'll try to get video of. I have a couple coming up here.
mbyr31 2 years ago
Man thats the worse carb i ever seen.
craig1974 2 years ago
It cleaned up nice though!! I wish I would have gotten some shots of that, but I didn't. I just uploaded a video showing this thing running though!! It should be up in about a half hour or so!!
mbyr31 2 years ago
i hate Tecumseh good video 5*****
ils360 2 years ago
LOL me too !
1972FordF150 2 years ago
I definitly hate tecumseh!!!
mbyr31 2 years ago