Added: 4 years ago
From: stephenhayesuk
Views: 216,906
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  • Very helpful information Stephen. you have inspired me to plant apple trees in florida. check out my video on youtube channel believeingonhim. Tony.

  • youtube is too damn slow

  • Have you ever tried to grow your trees in a vertical axis or super spindel system on dwarf rootstock(M9 or B9)? In norway, sweden, The netherlands and USA most farms are converting to these system because of better quality and higher yield pr. acre. 60-90cm between each tree (high density). Pruning is a lot easier too..

  • @joarild I am aware ofall this, and our new pear planting (33 trees) is vertical central leader dominant pyramid system. We started out with open centre bush/goblet shape and it seems to work OK for our system. I don't argue against the established fact that the spindlebush style is more economic for mass production, but as you may have gathered we are more enthusiastic amateurs than serious commercial growers. We don't depend on this for our main income

  • Have you ever tried to grow you trees in a vertical axis or super spindel system on dwarf rootstock(M9 or B9)? In norway, sweden, The netherlands and USA most farms are converting to these system because of better quality and higher yield pr. acre. 60-90cm between each tree (high density). Pruning is a lot easier too..

  • thanks for the tutorial, will keep checking up for more information

  • "Open-center dwarf bush is probably the most sensible way..."

    I don't know about the UK, but here in mainland Europe everyone grows apple trees with a central leader (angle of 80-90 degree) in either pyramid-shape (old-school) or tall/slender/super spindle. You need to grow apple (and pear as well) in those shapes to maximize the fruit production, open-center bush shape is only going well with stone fruits (peach, plum, etc). Sorry for my English I know it's pretty bad.

  • @TheDevilMadeMeToDoIt My uncle lives in Southern Germany and in his area the landscape is often grass with scattered apple trees. Here they grow open middled goblet shaped trees. So I think it is dangerous to say "here in mainland Europe" because it varies.

  • Attach a video For great tips on how to grow, train and prune table grapes come and visit howjunction

  • Haha...apple is not for me so I don't think this video is useful for me...

    I feel that the quote " An apple a day keeps you away from the doctor" does not apply on me....Apple is such a nightmare...

  • Thank you!  Best Regards from Romania!

  • I am from Washington State. We have amazing orchids.

  • Nice.

  • Thank you for the videos. I used the information from your videos in 2008 on some wild apple trees. I am very pleased with the results.

  • Thanks for the video.  I've heard that 'urricanes 'ardly ever 'appen there.

  • searching 'alabama fruit tree pruning' pulls up a highly worthwhile resource

  • I am about to prune my Fuji and Granny Smith trees, which are tip bearers I see. My trees are maybe 8 years old or so. I'm not sure where to find how to prune it... so I'll just keep doing what I've been doing from books. I liked your spur pruning video and I already did my spur bearers.

  • Its 2 years after you made this video and i'm about to use your tips on a wild little golden delicious tree in N. California.Thanks for sharing the info.

    The lord is good to me,and so i thank the lord,for giving me the things i need,the sun,the rain,and the apple seed,the lord is good to me.-A fun grace we would sing before dinner as kids:]

  • i wish this guy is my neighbour and i would be "bugging" him constantly:-)

    Best wishes bro ,

    from Serbia (Yugoslavia)

  • These videos are so useful, it is a joy to read just how helpful they have been to other people too. Thanks a million

  • very nice

  • Stephen... what rootstock is the "SUNSET" apple on?

  • MM106

    Sunset is a small growing apple, one of its plus points for a small garden. It is also a very reliable cropper. it always needs thinning or the fruits are too small

    Incidentally, this block of trees were chopped down, not because there was anything wrong with them, but because we had too many of that variety (and the Bramleys bext to them) and were being asked for pears, so we made the tough decision to remove them and replant. I have posted some videos about this new pear orchard

  • Are you Steven's wife?

    if so give my regards to Steven!

    nice pruning.

  • No, this is Rambling Steve Appleseed, the lonesome guitar strangler, postnig under a different youtube channel sign in.

  • Back in the day when you started videos with "Fruitwise Heritage Apples". No longer necessary I expect, as most of your viewers have become quite the fans. You sir, are a reference.

  • Just a quick post to say 'thank you'. We started pruning our three neglected apple trees last winter, following the tips in these videos, and have started to get a good crop from them all. In fact I now have wrinkly fingers from peeling and chopping my own weight in Bramleys.

  • Our apple tree has just had its last apple picked, should I start pruning back now or wait till the leaves drop when winter comes in??

    Excellent tutorials, keep 'em coming!

    Cheers!

  • Thanks Mr Biker

    I won't start pruning until the ;last leaf has dropped, partly because I have so much else to do and pruning can wait, and also because I can't help thinking that as long as they are on the tree, the leaves are pulling down some sunlight and turning it into something useful, so why waste it?

    All the experts (I do not call myself an expert, only an enthusastic amateur) say to prune between leaf fall and bud burst.

    No hurry.

  • Very good job on the presentation of material. .

  • Very necessary an interesting videos.

    Thanks.

  • Stephen and youtube thankyou for your help

  • This is fascinating.  I hope to one day have a property that can support some apple trees.

  • Excellent video. You know your apples. Worth seeing.

  • sorry!!! I've given 2 stars, but i should 10 ...sorry... this videos are perfect!!! very helpfull!

  • No, you shouldn't prune off all of last year's new growth. You must always leave some. Depends how much there is, if it's excessive, take enough out. What nobody can teach you by a definite rule is-exactly how much? AS I keep saying, its about balance. Study trees, they are your best teachers. The worst mistake, and a very common one, is just to cut everything back in a 'pudding basin hair cut' style year after year.

    all the best

  • I've been pruning apple trees for nearly 45 years, and sometimes it doesn't follow a definate scientific method. I agree not to trim off all the new growth, because sometimes it takes a couple of years for apples to grow on this newer growth.

  • That's awesome. You explained it very well and nice use of video. The out of focus bit didn't matter, I could still tell what you were talking about.

    I've read to minimize heading cuts on apples and pears, but last year my branches started to break from the weight of the fruit. But I shouldn't prune off all of last years (most current) growth should I?

  • Thanks, that was VERY helpful!  I am a visual person and seeing it done is easier than reading it in a book. Thank you for your tips!

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