I'm not sure if this has been said before, but I made this mash tun probably 2 years ago. I have brewed countless batches with it, but I am just not beginning to become concerned with the shape of the washer on the inside of the tun. It seems to have rusted. What are your thoughts?
Very informative video, thanks for it. I am pretty new to home brewing and have considered putting together a system similar to this, but in your video I noticed your "manifold" is laying against the bottom of the mash tun, and you cut your slots in the bottom of your manifold. Have you ever had an issue with yeast residue clogging up those holes?
Great video's man. However there is a slight problem with this one that people should be able to correct themselves if they've used plumbing hardware before. But for those that have not here is:
In your video you say that the barbed adapter threads into the reducer and then into the ball valve. However thats impossible since the A-815 reducer is FIP x FIP.
most important: drink beer while doing this. if you can avoid losing a finger with the dremel while hammered drunk you know then that you have the natural talent to be a homebrewer.
I have brewed many mini-mash beers, but I'm just now moving on to all grain. I know I've read many things about the depth of the grain must be at a minimun 4". Will this cooler be good for 5 gallon batches?
Mr brown,please dont stop there,show us how you use your 10 gallon mash ton,and what products you use,hell just show us your whole prossess,you seem to know what your doing,Im just learning butt I want to do this right,great video work by the way,thanks and have a great fourth of July,drink one for our men and women in uniform !!!
Keith, just got one of the coleman coolboxes shown in your video. Not quite sure what the size of the hole in the box was after you took out the drain plug. Is it 1/2 " ? Trying to calibrate this to metric for the UK fittings!
Question: You say to use lead free solder because of drinking this, but you use brass fittings which contain lead -- I'm confused. Brass is a metal alloy primarily composed of copper, tin and varying amounts of lead. Antique brass may contain very high levels of lead, while brass manufactured in the United States after 1986 usually contains no more than 7-8% lead. In both instances, the lead may leach from the brass.
A few questions on this setup ken- what was the thought process on using brass over pvc for the manifold? are there any benefits to that? Also, do the slits being on the bottom of the brass piping effect the efficiency of the drain? Would they benefit from being on top? What kind of efficiency are you experiencing with this sort of setup? Thanks for your help- great video!
I used the copper tubing because the manafold needs to sit flat against the bottom and I can bend the copper to insure flat contact with the bottom. The slits on the bottom help keep the manafold from cloging. Keeps you from having a stuck sparge. My efficiency is always between 82 to 85 percent. Good luck with your brewing.
Ah sorry I called ya Ken! KEITH, great tips again, many many thanks. One last question about the copper manifold. Do you worry at all about lead seeping into your beer? Have you de-natured the copper in anyway to prevent this?
As long as you use the Lead Free solder and Lead Free flux (sold at any hardware store) you have nothing to worry about. The copper is completly safe. Copper pipes are used in cold and hot water lines in houses with no ill effects. I have seen people make manafolds out of PVC that work great. As long as you use food grade materials you are safe.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm just starting my first all grain batch of beer and this gave me some great advice. Much obliged sir!
Solon5694 1 month ago
Keith,
I'm not sure if this has been said before, but I made this mash tun probably 2 years ago. I have brewed countless batches with it, but I am just not beginning to become concerned with the shape of the washer on the inside of the tun. It seems to have rusted. What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Jacob
Jhonda00 4 months ago
I called you Ken! Sorry Keith!
John W (UK)
Jazzwayze 7 months ago
Very informative video, thanks for it. I am pretty new to home brewing and have considered putting together a system similar to this, but in your video I noticed your "manifold" is laying against the bottom of the mash tun, and you cut your slots in the bottom of your manifold. Have you ever had an issue with yeast residue clogging up those holes?
TheRig2005 1 year ago
Comment removed
Drabbit2583 1 year ago
well i gotta say you da man!
kenkem396 1 year ago
Great video's man. However there is a slight problem with this one that people should be able to correct themselves if they've used plumbing hardware before. But for those that have not here is:
In your video you say that the barbed adapter threads into the reducer and then into the ball valve. However thats impossible since the A-815 reducer is FIP x FIP.
Here is the correct order:
Adapte(M)r-Hex Bushing(MF)-Ball Valve(FF)-Nipple(MM)-Reducer(FF)-Compression(C-M)
Thanks for the vids Keith!
myost0588 1 year ago
Are there health risks in using brass? I know copper is safe and stainless steel but i don't know about brass.
JustWonderingHowToDo 1 year ago
@JustWonderingHowToDo
Brass does contain very small amounts of lead, but not enough to impact your wort.
If you are concerned, just use cpvc plastic fittings and tubing. I've heard it works just fine.
myost0588 1 year ago
Great vid! I plan on making one of these bad boys next weekend.
dreamdenizen 1 year ago
You actualy need a metric 16mm washer, fits perfect over 1/2 " bras connector.
Done this.
StagArmslower 2 years ago
Having trouble finding washers in the size you are using. Can you tell me where those came from?
oldyote 2 years ago
Could you use pvc instead of the copper for this?...thanks...good video..
turner111971 2 years ago
most important: drink beer while doing this. if you can avoid losing a finger with the dremel while hammered drunk you know then that you have the natural talent to be a homebrewer.
svhardesty 2 years ago
I don't understand why you made the smaller copper pipe so long. Why didn't you just put the "T" facing the outlet?
oxman0313 2 years ago 12
Just so he can use his pipe bender
Ducttape206 2 years ago
lol. It was a great video very indepth but that just didn't make sense.
oxman0313 2 years ago
@oxman0313 I was wondering the same thing. Is there a benefit to making the S curve with the 3/8" tubing?
super0pimp 1 year ago
I have brewed many mini-mash beers, but I'm just now moving on to all grain. I know I've read many things about the depth of the grain must be at a minimun 4". Will this cooler be good for 5 gallon batches?
Jhonda00 2 years ago
Yes, it works for 5 and 10 gallon batches.
kebrown1980 2 years ago
Well I guess it doesn't even matter anymore because I've already made one. lol. Thanks so much for the video Mr. Brown.
Jhonda00 2 years ago
Mr brown,please dont stop there,show us how you use your 10 gallon mash ton,and what products you use,hell just show us your whole prossess,you seem to know what your doing,Im just learning butt I want to do this right,great video work by the way,thanks and have a great fourth of July,drink one for our men and women in uniform !!!
wiskey1964 2 years ago 2
Keith, just got one of the coleman coolboxes shown in your video. Not quite sure what the size of the hole in the box was after you took out the drain plug. Is it 1/2 " ? Trying to calibrate this to metric for the UK fittings!
chrisreboot 2 years ago
I think the hole size is 7/8". The 1/2" pipe nipple was able to fit through the hole.
kebrown1980 2 years ago
thanks.
got a water butt tap that fits nicely!
chrisreboot 2 years ago
Question: You say to use lead free solder because of drinking this, but you use brass fittings which contain lead -- I'm confused. Brass is a metal alloy primarily composed of copper, tin and varying amounts of lead. Antique brass may contain very high levels of lead, while brass manufactured in the United States after 1986 usually contains no more than 7-8% lead. In both instances, the lead may leach from the brass.
ButchV12 3 years ago
Very very nice work!
BurningTirez 3 years ago
I hope it helps. Good luck with your all grain brewing. Brewing beer has become my number one hobby.
Cheers
kebrown1980 3 years ago
A few questions on this setup ken- what was the thought process on using brass over pvc for the manifold? are there any benefits to that? Also, do the slits being on the bottom of the brass piping effect the efficiency of the drain? Would they benefit from being on top? What kind of efficiency are you experiencing with this sort of setup? Thanks for your help- great video!
xxhelderxx 3 years ago
I used the copper tubing because the manafold needs to sit flat against the bottom and I can bend the copper to insure flat contact with the bottom. The slits on the bottom help keep the manafold from cloging. Keeps you from having a stuck sparge. My efficiency is always between 82 to 85 percent. Good luck with your brewing.
Cheers,
Keith
kebrown1980 3 years ago
Ah sorry I called ya Ken! KEITH, great tips again, many many thanks. One last question about the copper manifold. Do you worry at all about lead seeping into your beer? Have you de-natured the copper in anyway to prevent this?
xxhelderxx 3 years ago
As long as you use the Lead Free solder and Lead Free flux (sold at any hardware store) you have nothing to worry about. The copper is completly safe. Copper pipes are used in cold and hot water lines in houses with no ill effects. I have seen people make manafolds out of PVC that work great. As long as you use food grade materials you are safe.
Cheers,
Keith
kebrown1980 3 years ago
Thanks for your detailed video, Ken. I am just making my first mash tun and cant tell you how much your videos have helped. Thanks for sharing!
cjs303 3 years ago