I thought about this as well. To be honest I don't think it will be a good thing to do. It will take away what is the bottom line of a KLR. A cheap reliable bike you can ride into the ground. The moment you put in a heavier and more powerful engine the suspension, which is already on the poor side, and frame will have to be upgraded as well. Before you know it you have a KLR, and what it came known for, no more.
Kawasaki must upgrade the KLR 650 by putting in a twin cylinder engine,like the er 6 n motorcycle has got in .i am thinking of doing a conversion like that.That would be the ultimate dualpurpose bike.i like the look of the new klr's,and a twin cyl would round it off perfect.
What is Kawasaki doing about this problem?surely by now they must know about it.My previous klr 2006 model was vibrating like hell,now i know what the problem was.
@mgetty1 I believe Kawasaki is turning a blind eye. They refuse to correct the mistake though they did issue the post 2008 models with a better Doo they slipped up with the spring. I ride an HPN (replica of 1985 Paris Dakar winning rally bike) now but I must admit, I miss my KLR.
@mgetty1 A shorter spring will solve more than half of the problem if you have to squeeze the pennies but since you are opening up the engine I would go the whole way by putting in the Eagle Mike part. This part from Eagle Mike has a better fit and allows for more future adjustment. In the pre 2008 models you have to fit a new Doo because the standard one breaks and metal bits ends up un the gears!
I always use loctite brand "freeze and release" to remove stubborn flywheels. It's an aerosol can that when pointed and sprayed at an object, will freeze it after about 15-20 seconds. It works especially well on sealed cases like on two stroke bikes and snowmobiles where the case seal can melt. As well, "Joe average" doesn't have access to oxy/ace torches to heat it. although on this application heating is harmless really.
an electric impact wrench is the way to go for both the flywheel bolt removal and then when you put in the flywheel removal tool in. (Make sure it is made of high grade metal!)
@MarcVolf Hey, I'm in the middle of doing the "doo." I'm having a difficult time with such an easy project... due to the 1and1/4 wrench. I finally got the rotor bolt off after the wrench slipped off 150 times or so. Now I'm trying to pull the rotor with the rotor bolt puller... It also keeps slipping and has begun to round off on the inside of the wrench (not by much). Do I understand you correctly in using an impact wrench to do the job? Any help much appreciated. Thanks!
@klr650hack That's consumerism for you! They want to make you come back for more and more and more.
I have no idea what it would cost for a Kawasaki dealer to fix the doo. Maybe R1000 excluding the parts. I would highly recommend against using a dealer, they might cock it up even further. Just use LeCap...
Kawi should have recalled this WAY back and improved it long before now.....which they still have not correctly remedied. I have only 3200 miles on my 04 and just did this. Shouldn't have too. This is a defective system from the factory and Kawi knows it.
On pre-2008 models the "Doo" and spring tensioning it used to break apart sending it’s bits into the gears and destroying the engine. Beyond 2008 the KLR’s have a better “Doo” but now the spring that has to tension the chain by pulling the “Doo” is way too long as from the factory. No tension in that chain = lots of wear = failure of engine.
The "Counter Balancer Adjustment Mechanism" or "Doohickey" or "Doo" in short has always been the KLR's weak point. The mechanism does exactly what it's name suggests. The bike has a counter balancing chain to help to smooth the engine out. The "Doo" is there to keep that counter balancing chain tensioned.
@gremlins90 Just change the Doo! Take it from the experts. I'm not one but there has been enough said on the internet. Let me sum it up: the original doo has a lose fit, the adjustment range is limited, in pre '08 models it breaks apart and end up in the gears and on post '08 models the tensioning spring is too long rendering the whole thing useless.
Didn't even know one gets a torsion spring. I used the coil spring, the shortest one in the set as the wear was already so far at 12K. Got 43K on the clock now and apart from using about 2L of oil every 1000km all is still well with the KLR.
That accent is none other than afrikaans... I lived in S.A. (southafrica) for almost a year and that fuckin accent sticks out like a faggot at a gun convention
2009 KLR is the same as the 2008 KLR apart from the paint job of course. Unlike in the pre-2008 models the doo won't break and end up in the gears but it does have a poor fit to the shaft and most important the spring that is supposed to tension the mechanism is not doing anything. Lastly, even if you sort out the spring, the original doo don't have much adjustment life anyway.I think my video makes these problems clear. No bullshit, just the plain truth.
Yes, he was smoking. I dislike cigarettes, and smoking in general, myself but it is just about impossible to start a fire by smoking next to a closed petrol tank.
If you have such fears you should stay in bed and never leave the room, hell your bed might be more harmful.
I also had the same problem. I replaced mine at 2,000 miles and now I have 10,000 miles on the bike. The only problem I have now is the cold starting problem. But I love the bike.
I love my KLR too. One has to be content with what it can offer though. Done 27 000 km already and now beginning to realize she's rather underpowered. No starting problems yet. My rear shock adjuster stripped out and the wires under the tank shorted leaving me stranded but that's it.
KLR is a good bike but it DOES need a lots of mods! (Doohickey, Frame bolts, Fork Springs, Rear shock, Rad Guards, Etc...) And this doesn't help when you live in a country where you cant find ANYTHING of this (like me for example: Venezuela has only 1 kawa dealer =S) so, this is why i am thinking on a DR650.
I thought about this as well. To be honest I don't think it will be a good thing to do. It will take away what is the bottom line of a KLR. A cheap reliable bike you can ride into the ground. The moment you put in a heavier and more powerful engine the suspension, which is already on the poor side, and frame will have to be upgraded as well. Before you know it you have a KLR, and what it came known for, no more.
michielkaapstad 21 hours ago
Kawasaki must upgrade the KLR 650 by putting in a twin cylinder engine,like the er 6 n motorcycle has got in .i am thinking of doing a conversion like that.That would be the ultimate dualpurpose bike.i like the look of the new klr's,and a twin cyl would round it off perfect.
johnhenk1 1 day ago
What is Kawasaki doing about this problem?surely by now they must know about it.My previous klr 2006 model was vibrating like hell,now i know what the problem was.
mgetty1 1 day ago
@mgetty1 I believe Kawasaki is turning a blind eye. They refuse to correct the mistake though they did issue the post 2008 models with a better Doo they slipped up with the spring. I ride an HPN (replica of 1985 Paris Dakar winning rally bike) now but I must admit, I miss my KLR.
michielkaapstad 1 day ago
Hi,if the tensioning spring on the post 2008 klr models are too long,can't i just put in a shorter spring then?
mgetty1 1 day ago
@mgetty1 A shorter spring will solve more than half of the problem if you have to squeeze the pennies but since you are opening up the engine I would go the whole way by putting in the Eagle Mike part. This part from Eagle Mike has a better fit and allows for more future adjustment. In the pre 2008 models you have to fit a new Doo because the standard one breaks and metal bits ends up un the gears!
michielkaapstad 1 day ago
Is "doohickey" the actual name of the part? Isn't there a more technical name?
macroevolve 2 months ago
@macroevolve Timing Chain Tensioner
TORQUER3 2 months ago
I always use loctite brand "freeze and release" to remove stubborn flywheels. It's an aerosol can that when pointed and sprayed at an object, will freeze it after about 15-20 seconds. It works especially well on sealed cases like on two stroke bikes and snowmobiles where the case seal can melt. As well, "Joe average" doesn't have access to oxy/ace torches to heat it. although on this application heating is harmless really.
barachoisboy 8 months ago
an electric impact wrench is the way to go for both the flywheel bolt removal and then when you put in the flywheel removal tool in. (Make sure it is made of high grade metal!)
makes the process very painless.
(I have used this 10 to 15 times)
MarcVolf 10 months ago
@MarcVolf Hey, I'm in the middle of doing the "doo." I'm having a difficult time with such an easy project... due to the 1and1/4 wrench. I finally got the rotor bolt off after the wrench slipped off 150 times or so. Now I'm trying to pull the rotor with the rotor bolt puller... It also keeps slipping and has begun to round off on the inside of the wrench (not by much). Do I understand you correctly in using an impact wrench to do the job? Any help much appreciated. Thanks!
Shortstory123 9 months ago
how much if kawi does the work????u know u cant buy any thing thats built rite can we??
klr650hack 10 months ago
@klr650hack That's consumerism for you! They want to make you come back for more and more and more.
I have no idea what it would cost for a Kawasaki dealer to fix the doo. Maybe R1000 excluding the parts. I would highly recommend against using a dealer, they might cock it up even further. Just use LeCap...
michielkaapstad 10 months ago
how much if kawi does the work????
klr650hack 10 months ago
hi michiel have you got more contwac t details for jurgen im in the southern suburbs and my 89 klr is in serious need of the upgrade thanks
ThePatches58 1 year ago
@ThePatches58 info@lecap.co.za
michielkaapstad 10 months ago
Kawi should have recalled this WAY back and improved it long before now.....which they still have not correctly remedied. I have only 3200 miles on my 04 and just did this. Shouldn't have too. This is a defective system from the factory and Kawi knows it.
bearhamo 1 year ago
On pre-2008 models the "Doo" and spring tensioning it used to break apart sending it’s bits into the gears and destroying the engine. Beyond 2008 the KLR’s have a better “Doo” but now the spring that has to tension the chain by pulling the “Doo” is way too long as from the factory. No tension in that chain = lots of wear = failure of engine.
michielkaapstad 1 year ago
The "Counter Balancer Adjustment Mechanism" or "Doohickey" or "Doo" in short has always been the KLR's weak point. The mechanism does exactly what it's name suggests. The bike has a counter balancing chain to help to smooth the engine out. The "Doo" is there to keep that counter balancing chain tensioned.
michielkaapstad 1 year ago
Quite the difference in sound. I'll have to do this to my bike. What product is that exactly?
N8Ryder 1 year ago
Sorry, but i have no idea why you changed that? I'm not a mechanic and looking to buy and ride one of these boys from Durb's to London
gremlins90 1 year ago
@gremlins90 Just change the Doo! Take it from the experts. I'm not one but there has been enough said on the internet. Let me sum it up: the original doo has a lose fit, the adjustment range is limited, in pre '08 models it breaks apart and end up in the gears and on post '08 models the tensioning spring is too long rendering the whole thing useless.
michielkaapstad 10 months ago
Dang this looks expensive to get fixed. Wondering how much it would cost?
beone011 1 year ago
@beone011 Between 20 and 40 dollars if you do it yourself.
coyotemutt 1 year ago
I have the same bike (US), did you use the torsion spring or another coil spring, I ordered both but haven't decided which to use.
SJulianYZ125 2 years ago
Didn't even know one gets a torsion spring. I used the coil spring, the shortest one in the set as the wear was already so far at 12K. Got 43K on the clock now and apart from using about 2L of oil every 1000km all is still well with the KLR.
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
Do you know of any one in JHB that can do this upgrade, i've just ordered my 2010 KLR & will want it to be fixed on the 1st service, btw, great vid
800ger 2 years ago
Thanks... Hey, as long as the message gets through!
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
hi i am about to chang my doohicky if thers any more info you can give me i need all the help i can get
lynchmobster 2 years ago
That accent is none other than afrikaans... I lived in S.A. (southafrica) for almost a year and that fuckin accent sticks out like a faggot at a gun convention
houston81 2 years ago
Hey Michael Kaapstad, does the 2009 KLR need the Doohickey upgrade?
Revbone450 2 years ago
In short, YES.
2009 KLR is the same as the 2008 KLR apart from the paint job of course. Unlike in the pre-2008 models the doo won't break and end up in the gears but it does have a poor fit to the shaft and most important the spring that is supposed to tension the mechanism is not doing anything. Lastly, even if you sort out the spring, the original doo don't have much adjustment life anyway.I think my video makes these problems clear. No bullshit, just the plain truth.
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
Has that guy got a cigarette in his hand as he is wrenching? Is there not Gasoline in the tank?
mmaiden54 2 years ago
Shut the fuck up, Donny.
cygrey 2 years ago
You tell him... ;-)
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
Yes, he was smoking. I dislike cigarettes, and smoking in general, myself but it is just about impossible to start a fire by smoking next to a closed petrol tank.
If you have such fears you should stay in bed and never leave the room, hell your bed might be more harmful.
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
Very well done video, thanks.
Garyscott7 2 years ago
I also had the same problem. I replaced mine at 2,000 miles and now I have 10,000 miles on the bike. The only problem I have now is the cold starting problem. But I love the bike.
FluxCobalt 2 years ago
I love my KLR too. One has to be content with what it can offer though. Done 27 000 km already and now beginning to realize she's rather underpowered. No starting problems yet. My rear shock adjuster stripped out and the wires under the tank shorted leaving me stranded but that's it.
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
Comment removed
FluxCobalt 2 years ago
thank god for german engineers
thomashamiltom 2 years ago
don't bolts vibrate loose from that bike sometimes?
imacrazydude9999999 2 years ago
Yea, one just have to put locktite on every bolt as specially the ones holding the exhaust.
michielkaapstad 2 years ago
where do you get the parts
frescot01 2 years ago
google eagle mike, that should work
guyNbluejeans 2 years ago
nice video. nice mechanik.
rattfield 2 years ago
what year is your bike?
spuck1234 3 years ago
2008
tterlik 3 years ago
Yea, she's a 2008.
michielkaapstad 3 years ago
Thanks for the comments. I just want to get the info out there.
michielkaapstad 3 years ago
It looks like you have a very good mechanic. I'd buy him a cold beer. I wonder why there is no factory recall. Nice bike man.
later
lawbag 3 years ago
Kawasaki crap like that is exactly why I sold my '08 KLR and bought another DRZ400 . Now I have to change my name.
KLRbigdog 3 years ago
KLR is a good bike but it DOES need a lots of mods! (Doohickey, Frame bolts, Fork Springs, Rear shock, Rad Guards, Etc...) And this doesn't help when you live in a country where you cant find ANYTHING of this (like me for example: Venezuela has only 1 kawa dealer =S) so, this is why i am thinking on a DR650.
Roberto87 3 years ago