Added: 2 years ago
From: HomesteadAcres
Views: 1,622
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (41)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • you could take everything out and run a carb..

  • turn your key on/off on/off then finally on to get an error code

  • if it seems to stumble & at the same time the ameter needle moves like on my 360 I disconected the Coolent Temp Sensor switch (on the map circut NOT to be confused with the cooltant temp gauge drove it for about 3 weeks, at a slightlly higher idle & then reconectet the switch & low & beghold it rans nice & smooth causing me to believe that it was likely the PCM/PCU as might be in your case which is the computer onboard, these tend to need replacing every 200K miles or so so you're right on that

  • Being old and so many miles it could be a bad ground on the truck !! Canada and harsh nasty winters be my guess

  • I hade a similar problem w/ a 99 dodge mini van. I, after spending a lot of money on mechanics changed out the egr valve and that solved my problems, I noticed your was disconnected,I would reconect it first and go from their.

  • i have a ford ranger the same way. i did replace the mase air flow censor and it works now. oh yeah the 318 WILL bolt right up.

  • if the cat was pluged up it would run hot

  • your electronic fuel pump wires run down the fire wall and down to the frame then towards the tank at rear. Sometimes tend to pinch in between the cab and the frame if the cab mounts are worn or rust bad, this has caused a truck to act in close to the same manner you are explaining.causes a short i the electrical components .

  • you know i have a badcab mount on that side to wished i thought of that

  • take your cat covertor and the c02 sensor off .maybe pluged cat.covertor

  • did you check those 2 injectors right on top of that the spray parrern? on mine i remember one would spray when i gave it throttle both would start to spray..this truck doesnt have a mass air meter it has throttle position your computer is probably messed up and fried i just saw you said u have the same engine try swapping the computer i think it could be that werid box thing you thought was the mass air meter...

  • Sign up though a Dodge forum. You will get answers pretty quick. I would replace the Fuel filter first. It cheap and will at least rest your mind. They can get wet and dirty pretty quick

  • hey you can check codes by cycle the key 3 times and count the flashes of the check engine light, but first start with the basics - clean the ground wires from battery negative to frame ground and to the engine ground - if need be you can use heavy gauge wire to replace them. If that doesn,t work try tapping the ecm ( computer ) the thing you thought was the mass air flow sensor

  • To continue Desil engines are the biggest polluters but hmmm they do actuall testing on desil engines how many transports,trains would be off the road.We need them ahhh a loophole..Bet ya didnt know that..Sorry for the rant homestead..First check all the grounds then your TPC controll idle but spratic idle nope thats not it..I fix my Roadmaster with the same problem ill tell let you know my findings..Do your self a favor Join a forum involving your vehicle you will get awnsers prompt..

  • I tend to think on the fact removal of pollution controll you do get better gas milage and power..Removal of the air pump you do get more horsepower..I have a 86 jimmy with no air pump anymore or cats etc it still passes emmissions well did now its 23 it doesnt have to go..One of my other cars 97 breeze has no cat on it flew through emmissions.....Emmission testing at least here in canada is a joke...Get a desil vehicle and put it through emmissions here..They dont test it they just look at it

  • The simple answer is that the truck needs a complete (checkup) overhaul.

    One system at a time.

    Emission parts make the engine run great ... and where are they?

    Removal is purely psychological on a stock engine.

    It's not a question of Ford, Dodge, Mitsubishi-engined, etc.

    It's just plain ol' sabotage.

    There is child abuse, animal abuse, and vehicle abuse.

    Simple as that.

    God bless.

  • The box on the right(passenger side) fender you tap on at 3:40 is your ECM "engine computer",and just has the air tube for cooling,I am pretty sure,I have a 96 and it's a little different. However,I also had a van like yours and the ECM on that looked Identical,had the air tube etc. on the van it should be straight in under the hood,passenger side,on the firewall. Throttle postion sensor is connected to the throttle linkage,there should also be a MAP sensor on the throttle body. Best of luck!

  • no his truck has a normal ecu not the one that the intake air runs through

  • 318's are nice.. :)

  • probly get the same milage in it

  • the black square relay that is still attached to the fenderwell is probly the fuil pump relay if you unplug it will it is running if it shuts off than that is probly the problem

  • your right about this when i put a newer one in it didnt change anything im starting to wonder if theres a short in the fuel pump

  • at 2.35 that is a TPS..at 4.18 that is just a passtru for the wireing for the injectors..

    at 4.26 that is a step motor witch raises the idle when its cold or when the A/C is on..At 6.28 is a horn relay and those square black relays are just Bosh 5 prong relays , you can get them at ant parts house like napa..at 7.02 you mean E.C.M /Computer..

  • thanks alot very helpfull good to know what it all is

  • could it be low fuel psi.?? turn the key on off on off on and see if it will give a code?

  • the off on thing for some reason dosnt work in my truck it was scaned earlyer this spring and i forget the codes it gave there was alot of them

  • ',m not sure if the box on the passenger side fender area is a Mass air flow sensor if it was a MAF it would be in the large air inlet tube. Most Throttle body injected engines have a MAP sensor it measures manifold vacuum that can also be tested with a volt meter but it is much easier to just connect a scanner and look at the reading. I know buying a scanner is expensive but it will save you money in the future. Keep us updated when you get it fixed.

  • thanks i will

  • You mentioned that some times the check engine light goes off and it runs fine, so it is a bad sensor. You can test the TPS with a volt meter. With the key in the run position connect one lead to the terminal that had the black wire and the other to one of the other terminals. Once you have the test leads touching you will need someone to slowly open and close the throttle. make sure the key is on and engine is off. the voltage should go from less than one volt to close to 5 volts

  • thanks i dont have a volt meter but i might get one they can be handy

  • You should get a code reader or scanner once you know what codes are there it is easy to trouble shoot it. A basic code reader is less than $25. A scanner will read the codes and also give you live data such as TPS voltage, O2 sensor voltage etc.

  • This vehicle is not OBDII, there's no port for a scan tool. You jump two connections in the fuse box to pull codes.

  • That sucks, all the GM cars I have had always had a ALDL connector. Even back to 1981

  • Huh, I learned something new. I know my 1991 Wrangler 4.0L didn't even have one.

    You pulled codes with a jumper wire.

    I never worked at GM or took AC Delco school. Ineresting. Thanks...

  • save yourself a lot of hassle and buy a chevy

  • yes u are correct that was the throttle position sensor. it is on the throttle body the fuel pressure regulator the round thing with the little hose on it or u have the engine temp sensor which will cause a problem too if it isn't working it will cause u to run rich which will give u a idel problem but the way u havwe a check engine light id say it is a engine controll problem like the main relay for the computer or your ignition switch yess it can have bad contacts even tho it turns over

  • thanks

  • The idle is something else. You have a bad connection between the switch and the computer, either through a relay or whatever. The check engine lite is a self-check when you lite the system. Half the time it seems in/op on yours. Find the main relay or fuel pump relay, swap it.

    Check connections to the ECU.

    That box on the RT fender is smog junk.

    The TPS is on the pass side. like you said. You can over ride that on the other side. There should be adjustable stop to adjust it, for now.

  • Check connections at the key switch.

    The switch bad could be worn. Giggle the key. I'd put a meter on the main relay and see if it gets power when you hit the switch. Electrical problems are tough.

    You have no mass air flow meter, like I thought yesterday. The engine lite is the key here...it has to function.

  • I would imagine the van has the same ECU. or computer under the dash. You have no shortage of parts. There's no money in these types of repairs, that's why he didn't want to touch it. I'm a Honda Master Technician, and this seems tricky.

    Yikes!

  • That relay you unplugged is not the main relay. It would shut off, if it was. That rusty relay might be for the horn. That dirty black on next to it might be the main relay.

    Those black relays are interchangeable. You can swap them.

  • yed i did take the newr one out and hooked it up the the dirty one and it ran the same when i unhooked the dirty one the fuel pump shut off and it wouldnt fire so it must be the main one and it must be ok since the newer one worked the same

  • Jeff i do remember something the mechanic tole me that the computer was not caomunicating to the throtle controler and they said that the mother board was probly shot anyways thanks alot for your help

  • It's tough when you have money invested in the truck. These non-OBDII models are no fun when they fail like this. OBDII vehicles are 1996 and up. Or, you can go old-school with a carb. 1985 and down usually. Wish I could help more...

  • The Ranger would be my choice...I kinda like it...it's a 1980? 81? with a carb, right?

    I used to have one.

  • actualy its a 1987 witha carb yes alot of air hoses on it i did alot of work on it to new choke new brakes new braklines cap rotor but the floor is roted and it needs a new exhaust i do plan on fixing it

  • i would try some heat and a fuel filter thats cheap and u can cross that out then i think its a fuel flow problem get a guage so u know the fuel psi when it acts up..........

  • thanks for your tip

  • The TPS is what I was thinking too and you were right that was it. No dont need the AIR pump I take all mine out. Might also have a vacuum leak somewhere. Yeah I would just put a 318 in it.

  • do you think it would bolt up to the trany in it? (318)

  • Comment removed

  • I dont know have to ask about it. I know with Chevy the v-6s and v-8s can use the same trans. Im not sure on the dodge. I havent dealt with the 3.9s on the dodges that much.

  • I like prolong my vehicles as long as possible.

    400,000 kilometers? Holy Macro! Time to let her RIP.

  • well you might be right lol

  • id hook egr up on intected engines.

  • thanks this one hasnt been in use for it looks like a long time

Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more