Cool technique. Might take a bit longer than just making a back cut first. What we would do is just make a back cut first, insert a wedge, then a face cut in front (a little below the back cut). If the tree didn't easily fall with a little wedge pounding after cutting the face, we'd cut into the tree a little on each side of the wedge (and tree) at the same level as the face cut.
Great, new technique. Nice to have as many as possible, as there are a lot of different situations out there. Have you ever seen anyone do the back cut first, drive the wedge (snug, not tight), and then do the face cut? My dad taught me that, and it works, but it's not an easy cut, and I won't use it very often, but those bothersome small diameter trees are, sometimes, the most technically difficult.
Ok, minus the steel wedges I guess the technique works, but why not just make a standard back cut then drive a longer plastic wedge parallel with the cut?
Secondly the technique is for smaller dia trees where you cannot put a wedge behind the bar, what you are proposing is making the back cut, removing the saw leaving no wedge, then inserting a wedge ... like to see what tutor supports that theory, especially with a slight breeze or lean.
my only complaint why not skip the music and explain what you are doing instead
cementhauler99 8 months ago
@cementhauler99
This way it is multi-lingual and unless you're blind you should get it.
Ekka007 8 months ago
+1 pour w.a.s.p.
hydresaule 1 year ago
nice video mate!! this is gonna help me out in hawaii alot. we have alot of wind out here and about 40% of my tree jobs are palm removals.
joshuarugg 1 year ago
Cool technique. Might take a bit longer than just making a back cut first. What we would do is just make a back cut first, insert a wedge, then a face cut in front (a little below the back cut). If the tree didn't easily fall with a little wedge pounding after cutting the face, we'd cut into the tree a little on each side of the wedge (and tree) at the same level as the face cut.
olsonjorgen 1 year ago
Playing WASP makes me love you. Using lightsaber and photon torpedoes makes me ... confused about my love for you.
Lithys 1 year ago
Same cut for leaning trees.
ddf14173 1 year ago
Quarter cutting has been around for years.
drdendr0 1 year ago
How about a little bigger hammer to hit with.
Rickchainsaw 1 year ago
wtf my saws dont make those sounds i wanna get one.
66665555 2 years ago
Great, new technique. Nice to have as many as possible, as there are a lot of different situations out there. Have you ever seen anyone do the back cut first, drive the wedge (snug, not tight), and then do the face cut? My dad taught me that, and it works, but it's not an easy cut, and I won't use it very often, but those bothersome small diameter trees are, sometimes, the most technically difficult.
CadrachMor 2 years ago
sound efx suck -
TheVisualTruth 2 years ago
good technique but i would use a throw line and some ass pulling and booya that wont be giving us any more trouble.
TheLumberjacktreesc 2 years ago
hahahaha!
dime2st 2 years ago
Great technique, excellent sound edition ;o)
kidesqu 2 years ago
Ok, minus the steel wedges I guess the technique works, but why not just make a standard back cut then drive a longer plastic wedge parallel with the cut?
TreemanCJ5 2 years ago
First of all they're aluminium wedges.
Secondly the technique is for smaller dia trees where you cannot put a wedge behind the bar, what you are proposing is making the back cut, removing the saw leaving no wedge, then inserting a wedge ... like to see what tutor supports that theory, especially with a slight breeze or lean.
Ekka007 2 years ago
Fair enough, I see your point now.
TreemanCJ5 2 years ago
@Ekka007 i'm with you on that one dude , its a sweet teqhnique, use it myself regularly.
turtlezed 1 year ago