Thats a great question. I have 70mm edf rc jet. when I bought it I wanted the tiger meet scheme but it was not in stock. Then I read on a forum that its a decal. So just curious if you would happen to know.
I just take a little bit of warm water and put the decals in for ca. 30 seconds.
PS: I would like it, if you bild the Focke Wulf FW 200 C 4 from revell, cause this is my current project and I would like to see how you would build it.
@GarchingLF Well, in most cases it is enough to use warm water.. but many decals used these days can be troublesome, and will need some sort of decal solution.. :) I'm afraid I haven't got the Fw 200 C$ kit, and at the moment I'm not buying any new kits as I need to save my money and am only building kits from my stash, to make it go down a bit... sorry! :)
@Frserthegreenengine Probably online these days.. but it's not being made anymore.. the thing to look out for now is 'Pledge' polish with Future shine'... :)
I leave my decals in warm water till they come loose then I put it on the plane I take off excess water with a toilet paper or cotton buds depending on how big they are :) that's how I decal
I don't use Klear, what i do is get a jar of warm water then dip the decal in for a few seconds then i take it out and test it to see if it will come off. Then i slide it onto the model but the decal has to be thick enough to stand this method becuase if the decal is to thin they will come off in the future.
@modelingisgreat Well, the trick is to keep them in the water long enough for them to come off the backing paper, but not for too long so the glue on the decals dissolves.. :)
I have a question. Since u cant get Klear anymore, and u said u didnt use the new Pledge yet, which r the other products u would recommend to use for decals, that prevent silvering, air bubbles and stuff like that?
@perice666 Microscale 'Micro Sol' and 'Micro Set'.. Humbrol 'Decalfix'.. ModelMaster 'Decal Solvent Solution'.. personally I find that the Humbrol Decalfix did not work very well, when I tried it.. but the Microscale products are generally very good.. :)
@perice666 Thank you.. I would do more talkies, but prefer this method as I speak English with quite a strong accent, and also my camera does not record sound very well.. so I find this type of videos works best for me.. they also tend to be reasonably short!! :) Glad you enjoy them.. :)
@Reverbdude Sorry, yes.. I have seen the video now so I know what model I worked on.. and the Hasegawa P-47 D Thunderbolt is (in my opinion) a very poor kit, even though it costs nearly twice as much as the far superior Academy and Revell kits in 1/72. That's why I never completed it..
@TheBigDetail It's worth a try.. but it should be applied BEFORE decalling.. and then once the decals has dried you can always do a coat of varnish over them again, to seal them in.. :) Make sure to stir the varnish well.. :)
@TheBigDetail It used to be sold under the names Johnsons Klear, or Future.. now I think it is called PLEDGE.. Some say it is the same formula, others say it has changed, but as I haven't yet used any 'Pledge' I don't know, so can't advise you if it is as good or not.. :) Gloss varnish just makes the model shiny.. that's all.. :) The decals stick easier to a gloss surface.. :)
@TheBigDetail It'Klear / Future / Pledge is actually a floor polish.. so it dries very hard and strong! You can airbrush it, but I handbrush mine the usual way..
@kav9000 That works fine on some decals like the early Airfix.. but the early Academy decals, and some of the Airfix decals (issued just after Hornby took over) do need something a bit 'stronger' than water, to prevent silvering and to make sure they stay put.. :)
@kav9000 If you paint with glossy or semimatt paints the decals normally go on well.. but if you use matt paints the decals can often 'silver' if you only use water.. That;s why I use 'Klear' as it gives a gloss surface, as well as help to stick the decal down.. then I apply a matt varinish after, when the decal is dry.. :)
ah decals, the life of the model. i dip the decal and place it on the cutting mat just like you, on complex models with upto 90 - 100 decals i get water build up on the mat and dont pay attention to it and i garauntee i will place the full decal sheet on the mat for a second not thinking and bang i ruined the sheet damn.
but people dont know how to build models until they do stupid stuff like that eh.
@a24218361 Yup.. I learnt that the hard way too... :) That and placing the lid of the paint tin anywhere near where you'll then put your hand or your arm.. :P It's known as 'the joy of modelling'.. :) :)
to MSGSlayer, I'll have to try that, I did try the decal on the knife blade ploy and that worked quite well, are you a metal fan as well, I saw Michael playing with U.F.O. a couple of times, but I've never seen Slayer play live.
If I pick the little swine up with tweezers it twists it's self around or folds-up and eventually breaks, also transfers stick to my fingers like poo to a blanket, they prefer brushes to models,in fact more or less anything to going on were they should.
That depends.. the EARLY Airfix are normally quite easy to use, but they tend to be very poorly printed.. Then they had a period recently with very thin decals printed on a glossy backing paper, and they are normally very difficult to use.. sadly most of the kits in the stores now have those decals.. but the newest kits have decals that appear to be of a better quality.. AND in register.. so it totally depends on what Airfix kit you happen to end up with, if the decals are good or not..
Hey great how to, I imagine that KLEAR, is the equivalent to Johnson floor wax? JFW is basically a clear coat acrylic. Pretty sure it is still available as long as mankind has floors. I have used it pretty effectively with an airbrush.
I am looking forward to your how to on older more delicate decals. My P-38 ones are cracking and giving me a hard time. Thanks again. -M
Yes, it's the same stuff.. also known as Future.. :) I will see when I next build a model with delicate decals, and make sure I remember to make a 'How To'.. :)
You can still get it in some shops, like Robert Dyas... but there are quite a few products dedicated for modellers, like MicroSol and MicroSet.. which you should be able to order online if you don't have a local model shop.. and I think you can order Klear on line as well, still.. Hope this has helped you.. :)
No, you don't have to wear gloves at all.. :) It's just me.. and as for decalling on a matt surface, the decal doesn't stick down as well to a matt surface, and you may well end up with tiny airbubbles underneath, which will make the decals look very bad and silvered! The best way is to gloss varnish tye model, and then give it a coat of matt varnish after the decalling, That will help to protect the decals as well and stop them from lifting.. :)
Yikes.. :) That's a long way to go from the Vatican State, to buy models.. :) :) Great little shop, friendly people, reasonable prices.. and the only real model dealer in town too! :) I go there at least once a week, normally.. sometimes even more often, if I happen to be in town anyway.. :)
1 thing.Sorry for the correction,I know its frustrating.But they are decals not transfer.Transfers are like decals except you have to put them face down on something and apply moisture to the back.Decals are something that you wet and it comes off and you apply it on.Sorry for the correction if it annoys you.
Lots of people call decals transfers.. it's a commonly used name, be it correct or not.. I'm not fussy either way, I always used to call them 'decors' until I knew better.. :) :)
I was stunned when I saw that you just merely dipped the decals in the water for a second or 2. I'm going to try this method. I mainly have trouble with long thin decals. They terrify me lol. Thanks for the upload. 5/5
Me too.. long and thin decals are the worst.. but there's a way around everything! I prefer not to leave the decals in the water for too long, as it dissoves the glue.. but I probably should leave just a bit longer in the water than I do.. :)
Good enough for me.. read my channel description, I do things my way, and if it helps somebody else, than that's good.. and if people don't like it.. well, that is fine too!! :)
It can do.. it can also make a matt surface, pending on how you use it.. I tebnd to use it for decals, canopies and as a varnish.. (generally gloss) :)
I drop my decals in the water and leave it there for a bit, then i come bakc from lunch or somethin and rub the decal on the paper to see if it's ready to slide off, if so i put water on where i want the decal then i just slide it off and remove any excess water from the model with a paper towel.... any improvements you could make would be appreciated! :)
As a kid I learned somewhere that you put the trimmed decal upside down in lukewarm water until the back has completely saturated. From there, put it in place and slide the paper from under it so the decal drops on it's destination directly or usually a variation of this anyways.
Recently I discovered solvaset, microsol, et al, and mixed those into the brew. Have not tried the floor wax trick yet.
Yes, I will test that sytem too, once I can get my hands on abottle of whichever one I'm missing.. I find this works good for me though! Klear is on its way out and off the market, unfortunately.. but you can still buy it on the internet... :)
off with the corner of a napkin. Then I let the whole thing dry out undisturbed before doing the next one. On irregular surfaces I come back and apply Micro-set which is a decal softener that lets gravity work it into any rough spots. The products are from Microscale and
Yes, I know of the Micro Sol and Set system.. just haven't tried it yet!! I have a bottle of Micro Sol in the drawer, but no Set.. as yet! I just found the Klear worked for me and never had any reason really to try anything else.. :)
There can't possibly be an Ale -review, as this is a cider top.. :) It's also well proven that even though alcohol goes together with most things, plastic modelling is NOT one of them!! :) I don't make rude words as much as I say them most of the time, when I find that a carefully applied decal still ended up wonky after it dried on.. :P
Talking of cider - I have found that Libby's apple juice (2 cartons to make a gallon) with about 750 grams of sugar - tablespoon of lemon juice - teaspoon of wine yeast - ferments in a week to 10 days into a really tasty medium dry cider.
Which of course has nothing to do with drunken decals but I thought I would offer it free
i usually leave my decals in the water for about 30secs - 1minute, then if you have a cocktail stick, or even a cotton bud you can easily slide it off... but i usually slide my decals onto the model.. but will be sure to give this a go
I use that method too, mainly when the decals are thin or could break easily for any other reason.. I have also seen modellers using the point of a brush to move the decal on to the model, but I prefer tweezers.. as long as you go careful, that is.. :)
Mind you, I have left them in the water for too long sometimes.. it's not easy to catch them when they float.. also if left too long the glue on the back will dissolve.. that's why I only dip them in the water.. :)
They live under the toilets.. erh, sorry.. the lifts at Hovedbanegarden.. sometimes it's hard to tell the difference.. :) Not that I can understand how anyone can manage to use those lifts for their convenience, as they run quite fast.. but the smell is quite bad, sometimes.. :)
There's also the classic Danish lift sign: 'I Fart'..
Thats a great question. I have 70mm edf rc jet. when I bought it I wanted the tiger meet scheme but it was not in stock. Then I read on a forum that its a decal. So just curious if you would happen to know.
badgolf1 3 months ago
Would you happen to know of where to get a tigermeet decal sheet for a 70mm f-18 jet
badgolf1 3 months ago
@badgolf1 Not quite sure what you mean by 70mm... would that be 1/144 scale?? :)
BasicModelling 3 months ago
I just take a little bit of warm water and put the decals in for ca. 30 seconds.
PS: I would like it, if you bild the Focke Wulf FW 200 C 4 from revell, cause this is my current project and I would like to see how you would build it.
Greetings from Munich
GarchingLF 3 months ago
@GarchingLF Well, in most cases it is enough to use warm water.. but many decals used these days can be troublesome, and will need some sort of decal solution.. :) I'm afraid I haven't got the Fw 200 C$ kit, and at the moment I'm not buying any new kits as I need to save my money and am only building kits from my stash, to make it go down a bit... sorry! :)
BasicModelling 3 months ago
i use a very different method but its hard to explain in the comments
mestarinico1999 5 months ago
@mestarinico1999 Then by all means make a video... :) I guess there's about as many methods of decalling as there are modellers.. :)
BasicModelling 5 months ago
Do you need glue or can they stick by themselves once applied to the surface?
BlackScorpio1990 6 months ago
@BlackScorpio1990 They normally stick on by themselves, but it is always recommended to use a decal solution like micro set and micro sol.. :)
BasicModelling 6 months ago
@BlackScorpio1990 Ah. Thank you. :)
BlackScorpio1990 6 months ago
Comment removed
Frserthegreenengine 6 months ago
@Frserthegreenengine Probably online these days.. but it's not being made anymore.. the thing to look out for now is 'Pledge' polish with Future shine'... :)
BasicModelling 6 months ago
@BasicModelling Thanks I will look out for them :)
Frserthegreenengine 6 months ago
can i use normal transparent glue
daamardeep 6 months ago
@daamardeep Ordinary plastic glue is likely to mist or fog up the canopy, which won't look good.. :)
BasicModelling 6 months ago
I leave my decals in warm water till they come loose then I put it on the plane I take off excess water with a toilet paper or cotton buds depending on how big they are :) that's how I decal
thehjupo 7 months ago
nice t-shirt :)
hifi44sdad 10 months ago
Thanks, good tutorial :) I do decals differently but I think that for certain models this method is easier.
Modeller2002 1 year ago
@Modeller2002 I vary my method from time to time, pending on the decals.. but tis is what I do the most.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
why was it an abandoned project?
airfixman1234 1 year ago
@airfixman1234 It didn't end up as good as I first thought it would.. :P
BasicModelling 1 year ago
how do i make the plane shiny. and can i use windolene? please answer. its my 1st model and i wanna make more! keep up good work!
HardcoreXxXxDude 1 year ago
@HardcoreXxXxDude A gloss varnish should do the job... :) I'm not sure about the windolene.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
I don't use Klear, what i do is get a jar of warm water then dip the decal in for a few seconds then i take it out and test it to see if it will come off. Then i slide it onto the model but the decal has to be thick enough to stand this method becuase if the decal is to thin they will come off in the future.
modelingisgreat 1 year ago
@modelingisgreat Well, the trick is to keep them in the water long enough for them to come off the backing paper, but not for too long so the glue on the decals dissolves.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
can elmers glue mixed with water do the thing with decals?
psychedelic14 1 year ago
I have a question. Since u cant get Klear anymore, and u said u didnt use the new Pledge yet, which r the other products u would recommend to use for decals, that prevent silvering, air bubbles and stuff like that?
perice666 1 year ago
@perice666 Microscale 'Micro Sol' and 'Micro Set'.. Humbrol 'Decalfix'.. ModelMaster 'Decal Solvent Solution'.. personally I find that the Humbrol Decalfix did not work very well, when I tried it.. but the Microscale products are generally very good.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
@BasicModelling Coll tnx. I been talking wiv ppl last few days and most of them recommen Micro Set, so i'll give it a try :).
Btw i like your simple reviews, and the music u choose is always cool or looney :). Keep up the good work.
perice666 1 year ago
made a typo: cool instead of coll XD
perice666 1 year ago
@perice666 Thank you.. I would do more talkies, but prefer this method as I speak English with quite a strong accent, and also my camera does not record sound very well.. so I find this type of videos works best for me.. they also tend to be reasonably short!! :) Glad you enjoy them.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
This will be much easier now!!
logantheace 1 year ago
Why was this abandoned?
Reverbdude 1 year ago
@Reverbdude Abandoned?? :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
@BasicModelling yes, you said the hasegawa was
an abandoned project
Reverbdude 1 year ago
@Reverbdude Sorry, yes.. I have seen the video now so I know what model I worked on.. and the Hasegawa P-47 D Thunderbolt is (in my opinion) a very poor kit, even though it costs nearly twice as much as the far superior Academy and Revell kits in 1/72. That's why I never completed it..
BasicModelling 1 year ago
Nice shirt... :)
CRACKPOTATOE 1 year ago
@CRACKPOTATOE Thank you kindly.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
okay thank for the info btw i bougth a gloss from humbrol today and i gonna try that
the shopping man said it makes the surface shiny so i hope that will give the same effect to the decals!
thx very much!
TheBigDetail 1 year ago
@TheBigDetail It's worth a try.. but it should be applied BEFORE decalling.. and then once the decals has dried you can always do a coat of varnish over them again, to seal them in.. :) Make sure to stir the varnish well.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
omg i made over 40 tanks with decals and i dont know where to buy that KLEAR
but what is the exact name of the stuff?
gloss??? whats that?
TheBigDetail 1 year ago
@TheBigDetail It used to be sold under the names Johnsons Klear, or Future.. now I think it is called PLEDGE.. Some say it is the same formula, others say it has changed, but as I haven't yet used any 'Pledge' I don't know, so can't advise you if it is as good or not.. :) Gloss varnish just makes the model shiny.. that's all.. :) The decals stick easier to a gloss surface.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
@BasicModelling
okay so its like a lack like car lack?? hairspray or something?
TheBigDetail 1 year ago
@TheBigDetail It'Klear / Future / Pledge is actually a floor polish.. so it dries very hard and strong! You can airbrush it, but I handbrush mine the usual way..
BasicModelling 1 year ago
what on earth in decal solution i just use water :(
kav9000 1 year ago
@kav9000 That works fine on some decals like the early Airfix.. but the early Academy decals, and some of the Airfix decals (issued just after Hornby took over) do need something a bit 'stronger' than water, to prevent silvering and to make sure they stay put.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
@BasicModelling ah thanks, im just nearly finish the a380, used water seems to be ok(probably due to the paint under?)
thanks anyway :D
kav9000 1 year ago
@kav9000 If you paint with glossy or semimatt paints the decals normally go on well.. but if you use matt paints the decals can often 'silver' if you only use water.. That;s why I use 'Klear' as it gives a gloss surface, as well as help to stick the decal down.. then I apply a matt varinish after, when the decal is dry.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
I like your shirt...
Aerolseventh 1 year ago
@Aerolseventh So do I.. and it's better than being naked!! :) :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
ah decals, the life of the model. i dip the decal and place it on the cutting mat just like you, on complex models with upto 90 - 100 decals i get water build up on the mat and dont pay attention to it and i garauntee i will place the full decal sheet on the mat for a second not thinking and bang i ruined the sheet damn.
but people dont know how to build models until they do stupid stuff like that eh.
a24218361 1 year ago
@a24218361 Yup.. I learnt that the hard way too... :) That and placing the lid of the paint tin anywhere near where you'll then put your hand or your arm.. :P It's known as 'the joy of modelling'.. :) :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
Interesting method.
2002And 1 year ago
@2002And That's the one I prefer.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
to MSGSlayer, I'll have to try that, I did try the decal on the knife blade ploy and that worked quite well, are you a metal fan as well, I saw Michael playing with U.F.O. a couple of times, but I've never seen Slayer play live.
SuperLordjohn 1 year ago
do you need to use that klear stuff?
md80x15 1 year ago
@md80x15 You don't NEED to use it, as there's plenty of other decals solutions on the market.. but it is MY preferred solution for decalling... :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
If I pick the little swine up with tweezers it twists it's self around or folds-up and eventually breaks, also transfers stick to my fingers like poo to a blanket, they prefer brushes to models,in fact more or less anything to going on were they should.
SuperLordjohn 1 year ago
@SuperLordjohn Never tried using a brush myself, but have seen people doing it.. maybe I'll give it a go sometome.. :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
@SuperLordjohn I had the same problem, so I kept the tweezers apart while pick up the decals.
MSGSlayer 1 year ago
Cool an AVRO Lancaster T-Shirt. You don't see that every day.
bzzhuh 1 year ago
@bzzhuh Available from the pier shop in Clacton-on-Sea.. :) :)
BasicModelling 1 year ago
Can you use PVA (wood glue) to paint on the spot that you wish to place the decal and then paint it over the decal?
nouterbr 1 year ago
I wouldn't use PVA glue for decalling, no... :) :) Canopies, yes.. but not for decalling..
BasicModelling 1 year ago
are airfix decals the same?
000YellowFang000 2 years ago
That depends.. the EARLY Airfix are normally quite easy to use, but they tend to be very poorly printed.. Then they had a period recently with very thin decals printed on a glossy backing paper, and they are normally very difficult to use.. sadly most of the kits in the stores now have those decals.. but the newest kits have decals that appear to be of a better quality.. AND in register.. so it totally depends on what Airfix kit you happen to end up with, if the decals are good or not..
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Sorry I can't help you more than that.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
@BasicModelling thank you, i tiredit and it worked vary well
000YellowFang000 2 years ago
Glad to be of help.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
thanks for this video. helps me as a first time modeler applying water-slide decals.
braaaainz 2 years ago
That was the general idea behind the video.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
just acknowledging my appreciation, bud :)
braaaainz 2 years ago
Thank you... :) :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Hey great how to, I imagine that KLEAR, is the equivalent to Johnson floor wax? JFW is basically a clear coat acrylic. Pretty sure it is still available as long as mankind has floors. I have used it pretty effectively with an airbrush.
I am looking forward to your how to on older more delicate decals. My P-38 ones are cracking and giving me a hard time. Thanks again. -M
milesperpound 2 years ago
Yes, it's the same stuff.. also known as Future.. :) I will see when I next build a model with delicate decals, and make sure I remember to make a 'How To'.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
A lot of my models have suffered from decals "lifting" =/
It's depressing! Your video has helped, although I'm not sure where to get (if possible) klear. . . I read it's discontinued in the UK now?
Do you know of any other alternative products I can use to prevent my decals lifting?
Thanks
Grademike 2 years ago
You can still get it in some shops, like Robert Dyas... but there are quite a few products dedicated for modellers, like MicroSol and MicroSet.. which you should be able to order online if you don't have a local model shop.. and I think you can order Klear on line as well, still.. Hope this has helped you.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
i'm just getting back into the hobby when i was a kid it was the transfers that always messed up so this was a great help.
questions:
is it important to wear gloves?
why can you not apply to matt surfaces?
thanks.
V
yesitsvish 2 years ago
No, you don't have to wear gloves at all.. :) It's just me.. and as for decalling on a matt surface, the decal doesn't stick down as well to a matt surface, and you may well end up with tiny airbubbles underneath, which will make the decals look very bad and silvered! The best way is to gloss varnish tye model, and then give it a coat of matt varnish after the decalling, That will help to protect the decals as well and stop them from lifting.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
thanks for the prompt reply TOZO in col? thats where i got my newest b-29
yesitsvish 2 years ago
Yikes.. :) That's a long way to go from the Vatican State, to buy models.. :) :) Great little shop, friendly people, reasonable prices.. and the only real model dealer in town too! :) I go there at least once a week, normally.. sometimes even more often, if I happen to be in town anyway.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
1 thing.Sorry for the correction,I know its frustrating.But they are decals not transfer.Transfers are like decals except you have to put them face down on something and apply moisture to the back.Decals are something that you wet and it comes off and you apply it on.Sorry for the correction if it annoys you.
clubbythe 2 years ago
Lots of people call decals transfers.. it's a commonly used name, be it correct or not.. I'm not fussy either way, I always used to call them 'decors' until I knew better.. :) :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
I was stunned when I saw that you just merely dipped the decals in the water for a second or 2. I'm going to try this method. I mainly have trouble with long thin decals. They terrify me lol. Thanks for the upload. 5/5
MrSinAfterSin 2 years ago
Me too.. long and thin decals are the worst.. but there's a way around everything! I prefer not to leave the decals in the water for too long, as it dissoves the glue.. but I probably should leave just a bit longer in the water than I do.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
sorry but that was not a quality
101gamerkid 2 years ago
Good enough for me.. read my channel description, I do things my way, and if it helps somebody else, than that's good.. and if people don't like it.. well, that is fine too!! :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
What does the KLEAR do? Make a gloss surface?
PenRua 2 years ago
It can do.. it can also make a matt surface, pending on how you use it.. I tebnd to use it for decals, canopies and as a varnish.. (generally gloss) :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Is it safe to brush clear all over a finished models to protect it?
PenRua 2 years ago
You're welcome.. Can't guarantee it works for everyone, but if it has helped you at all, than that's good.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Haven't seen it yet, but posted a video response... :)
myhuxpo 2 years ago
I never watch your videos either... :) :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
nice video...that discarded model can be added to the discarded stuff to make a large diorama of an attacked airfield...or thrown into the bin :)
granskare 2 years ago
What discarded model?? :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
I believe you said something of the sort, perhaps a model that you gave up working upon...just look at your video LOL :)
granskare 2 years ago
i want your t-shirt so much
hoolahoop75 2 years ago
I should have a spare one somewhere.. IF I can find it, it will be a prize in one of my coming competitions.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
I drop my decals in the water and leave it there for a bit, then i come bakc from lunch or somethin and rub the decal on the paper to see if it's ready to slide off, if so i put water on where i want the decal then i just slide it off and remove any excess water from the model with a paper towel.... any improvements you could make would be appreciated! :)
SUPERSOCK4L1FE 2 years ago
great advises..
Liked the T-shirt too.
Congrats toyour 100th video..
and its and 5* again..
aid2003 2 years ago
Congrats on the 100 dude! thanks for the vid - decals are a bugger! :P
saviourzeroone 2 years ago
As a kid I learned somewhere that you put the trimmed decal upside down in lukewarm water until the back has completely saturated. From there, put it in place and slide the paper from under it so the decal drops on it's destination directly or usually a variation of this anyways.
Recently I discovered solvaset, microsol, et al, and mixed those into the brew. Have not tried the floor wax trick yet.
ModelManTom 2 years ago
Cool, I like to watch your video`s altough I never build models.
KENOEFF 2 years ago
whats the point of wearing gloves
arkiepoo 2 years ago
No fingerprints.. decals don't stick to your fingers (as easily).. keeps your hands clean, as well as the model..
..covers up my ugly nails.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Thanks for uploading!
I wanted to try this, but couldn't find KLEAR anywhere.
But I will soon order a bottle of Micro-SOL and Micro-SET.
Hope that will work out well!
Congrats, BTW. :D
airborne1promodeler 2 years ago
Yes, I will test that sytem too, once I can get my hands on abottle of whichever one I'm missing.. I find this works good for me though! Klear is on its way out and off the market, unfortunately.. but you can still buy it on the internet... :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
interesting
Hamburg4U 2 years ago
Yes.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Congratulation for your 100th videos :) i like your videos.....Pretty tutorial i dont know this method , but is interesting .
Bikim1996 2 years ago
Thank you.. I find it bworks fine for me, but I'm willing to try other methods too.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Cool I can use this on my trains!!
Jabbajawz4life 2 years ago
Good luck.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Flying visit, get it flying..planes..oh well,lol, hope you are well r.
MrPainfullytrue 2 years ago
At the moment things are not too bad, actually.. but tomorrow the next lot of CT is due.. poor thing.. :P
BasicModelling 2 years ago
congrats on 100 vids!!!
Darthphilip1st 2 years ago
Thank you muchly.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
btw are you going to C4 open in malmö?
svinehunden 2 years ago
No, I'm not likely to go back home until my son is sorted.. but if you're going please bring the camera.. :) :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
i will...)
svinehunden 2 years ago
I use Micro-sol as the wetting agent on the model
and slide the decal onto it with a paint brush
which has been wetted with the same stuff.
Ater positioning I wick some of the microsol
off with the corner of a napkin. Then I let the whole thing dry out undisturbed before doing the next one. On irregular surfaces I come back and apply Micro-set which is a decal softener that lets gravity work it into any rough spots. The products are from Microscale and
smell like vinegar. Clean the surface.
tyrbolo 2 years ago
Yes, I know of the Micro Sol and Set system.. just haven't tried it yet!! I have a bottle of Micro Sol in the drawer, but no Set.. as yet! I just found the Klear worked for me and never had any reason really to try anything else.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
oh I never used to use anyhing to stick them on.. or paint for that matter. but I did used to make rude words with the leftover bits if that helps!
By the was I was disappointed that the bottle top didn't mean there was a simltaneous real ale review!
MrRandomWritings 2 years ago
There can't possibly be an Ale -review, as this is a cider top.. :) It's also well proven that even though alcohol goes together with most things, plastic modelling is NOT one of them!! :) I don't make rude words as much as I say them most of the time, when I find that a carefully applied decal still ended up wonky after it dried on.. :P
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Talking of cider - I have found that Libby's apple juice (2 cartons to make a gallon) with about 750 grams of sugar - tablespoon of lemon juice - teaspoon of wine yeast - ferments in a week to 10 days into a really tasty medium dry cider.
Which of course has nothing to do with drunken decals but I thought I would offer it free
MrRandomWritings 2 years ago
I'll definetely con-cider that option.. ;)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
There's as many tricks as there are modellers.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
i usually leave my decals in the water for about 30secs - 1minute, then if you have a cocktail stick, or even a cotton bud you can easily slide it off... but i usually slide my decals onto the model.. but will be sure to give this a go
U48 2 years ago
I use that method too, mainly when the decals are thin or could break easily for any other reason.. I have also seen modellers using the point of a brush to move the decal on to the model, but I prefer tweezers.. as long as you go careful, that is.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Mind you, I have left them in the water for too long sometimes.. it's not easy to catch them when they float.. also if left too long the glue on the back will dissolve.. that's why I only dip them in the water.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
it happened to me once, the adhesive dissolved... but luckily i had some aftermarket decals which i used... damn i miss all my old models
U48 2 years ago
long awaited. Not just the 100th but also how to alctually use floor polish to stick decals on a model.
Conga rats Robert
PuppyZwolle 2 years ago
where does the conga rats live...) big up on the 100th... cheers mate...)
svinehunden 2 years ago
They live under the toilets.. erh, sorry.. the lifts at Hovedbanegarden.. sometimes it's hard to tell the difference.. :) Not that I can understand how anyone can manage to use those lifts for their convenience, as they run quite fast.. but the smell is quite bad, sometimes.. :)
There's also the classic Danish lift sign: 'I Fart'..
Here's to the next 100.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago
Yes, it's been long in the making.. but I got there in the end!! :)
Thank you.. :) I'll be back to you, just haven't had the time yet.. as such.. :)
BasicModelling 2 years ago