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From: BasicModelling
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  • Thats a great question. I have 70mm edf rc jet. when I bought it I wanted the tiger meet scheme but it was not in stock. Then I read on a forum that its a decal. So just curious if you would happen to know.

  • Would you happen to know of where to get a tigermeet decal sheet for a 70mm f-18 jet

  • @badgolf1 Not quite sure what you mean by 70mm... would that be 1/144 scale?? :)

  • I just take a little bit of warm water and put the decals in for ca. 30 seconds.

    PS: I would like it, if you bild the Focke Wulf FW 200 C 4 from revell, cause this is my current project and I would like to see how you would build it.

    Greetings from Munich

  • @GarchingLF Well, in most cases it is enough to use warm water.. but many decals used these days can be troublesome, and will need some sort of decal solution.. :) I'm afraid I haven't got the Fw 200 C$ kit, and at the moment I'm not buying any new kits as I need to save my money and am only building kits from my stash, to make it go down a bit... sorry! :)

  • i use a very different method but its hard to explain in the comments

  • @mestarinico1999 Then by all means make a video... :) I guess there's about as many methods of decalling as there are modellers.. :)

  • Do you need glue or can they stick by themselves once applied to the surface?

  • @BlackScorpio1990 They normally stick on by themselves, but it is always recommended to use a decal solution like micro set and micro sol.. :)

  • @BlackScorpio1990 Ah. Thank you. :)

  • Comment removed

  • @Frserthegreenengine Probably online these days.. but it's not being made anymore.. the thing to look out for now is 'Pledge' polish with Future shine'... :)

  • @BasicModelling Thanks I will look out for them :)

  • can i use normal transparent glue

  • @daamardeep Ordinary plastic glue is likely to mist or fog up the canopy, which won't look good.. :)

  • I leave my decals in warm water till they come loose then I put it on the plane I take off excess water with a toilet paper or cotton buds depending on how big they are :) that's how I decal

  • nice t-shirt :)

    

  • Thanks, good tutorial :) I do decals differently but I think that for certain models this method is easier.

  • @Modeller2002 I vary my method from time to time, pending on the decals.. but tis is what I do the most.. :)

  • why was it an abandoned project?

  • @airfixman1234 It didn't end up as good as I first thought it would.. :P

  • how do i make the plane shiny. and can i use windolene? please answer. its my 1st model and i wanna make more! keep up good work!

  • @HardcoreXxXxDude A gloss varnish should do the job... :) I'm not sure about the windolene.. :)

  • I don't use Klear, what i do is get a jar of warm water then dip the decal in for a few seconds then i take it out and test it to see if it will come off. Then i slide it onto the model but the decal has to be thick enough to stand this method becuase if the decal is to thin they will come off in the future.

  • @modelingisgreat Well, the trick is to keep them in the water long enough for them to come off the backing paper, but not for too long so the glue on the decals dissolves.. :)

  • can elmers glue mixed with water do the thing with decals?

  • I have a question. Since u cant get Klear anymore, and u said u didnt use the new Pledge yet, which r the other products u would recommend to use for decals, that prevent silvering, air bubbles and stuff like that?

  • @perice666 Microscale 'Micro Sol' and 'Micro Set'.. Humbrol 'Decalfix'.. ModelMaster 'Decal Solvent Solution'.. personally I find that the Humbrol Decalfix did not work very well, when I tried it.. but the Microscale products are generally very good.. :)

  • @BasicModelling Coll tnx. I been talking wiv ppl last few days and most of them recommen Micro Set, so i'll give it a try :).

    Btw i like your simple reviews, and the music u choose is always cool or looney :). Keep up the good work.

  • made a typo: cool instead of coll XD

  • @perice666 Thank you.. I would do more talkies, but prefer this method as I speak English with quite a strong accent, and also my camera does not record sound very well.. so I find this type of videos works best for me.. they also tend to be reasonably short!! :) Glad you enjoy them.. :)

  • This will be much easier now!!

  • Why was this abandoned?

  • @Reverbdude Abandoned?? :)

  • @BasicModelling yes, you said the hasegawa was

    an abandoned project

  • @Reverbdude Sorry, yes.. I have seen the video now so I know what model I worked on.. and the Hasegawa P-47 D Thunderbolt is (in my opinion) a very poor kit, even though it costs nearly twice as much as the far superior Academy and Revell kits in 1/72. That's why I never completed it..

  • Nice shirt... :)

  • @CRACKPOTATOE Thank you kindly.. :)

  • okay thank for the info btw i bougth a gloss from humbrol today and i gonna try that

    the shopping man said it makes the surface shiny so i hope that will give the same effect to the decals!

    thx very much!

  • @TheBigDetail It's worth a try.. but it should be applied BEFORE decalling.. and then once the decals has dried you can always do a coat of varnish over them again, to seal them in.. :) Make sure to stir the varnish well.. :)

  • omg i made over 40 tanks with decals and i dont know where to buy that KLEAR

    but what is the exact name of the stuff?

    gloss??? whats that?

  • @TheBigDetail It used to be sold under the names Johnsons Klear, or Future.. now I think it is called PLEDGE.. Some say it is the same formula, others say it has changed, but as I haven't yet used any 'Pledge' I don't know, so can't advise you if it is as good or not.. :) Gloss varnish just makes the model shiny.. that's all.. :) The decals stick easier to a gloss surface.. :)

  • @BasicModelling

    okay so its like a lack like car lack?? hairspray or something?

  • @TheBigDetail It'Klear / Future / Pledge is actually a floor polish.. so it dries very hard and strong! You can airbrush it, but I handbrush mine the usual way..

  • what on earth in decal solution i just use water :(

  • @kav9000 That works fine on some decals like the early Airfix.. but the early Academy decals, and some of the Airfix decals (issued just after Hornby took over) do need something a bit 'stronger' than water, to prevent silvering and to make sure they stay put.. :)

  • @BasicModelling ah thanks, im just nearly finish the a380, used water seems to be ok(probably due to the paint under?)

    thanks anyway :D

  • @kav9000 If you paint with glossy or semimatt paints the decals normally go on well.. but if you use matt paints the decals can often 'silver' if you only use water.. That;s why I use 'Klear' as it gives a gloss surface, as well as help to stick the decal down.. then I apply a matt varinish after, when the decal is dry.. :)

  • I like your shirt...

  • @Aerolseventh So do I.. and it's better than being naked!! :) :)

  • ah decals, the life of the model. i dip the decal and place it on the cutting mat just like you, on complex models with upto 90 - 100 decals i get water build up on the mat and dont pay attention to it and i garauntee i will place the full decal sheet on the mat for a second not thinking and bang i ruined the sheet damn.

    but people dont know how to build models until they do stupid stuff like that eh.

  • @a24218361 Yup.. I learnt that the hard way too... :) That and placing the lid of the paint tin anywhere near where you'll then put your hand or your arm.. :P It's known as 'the joy of modelling'.. :) :)

  • Interesting method.

  • @2002And That's the one I prefer.. :)

  • to MSGSlayer, I'll have to try that, I did try the decal on the knife blade ploy and that worked quite well, are you a metal fan as well, I saw Michael playing with U.F.O. a couple of times, but I've never seen Slayer play live.

  • do you need to use that klear stuff?

  • @md80x15 You don't NEED to use it, as there's plenty of other decals solutions on the market.. but it is MY preferred solution for decalling... :)

  • If I pick the little swine up with tweezers it twists it's self around or folds-up and eventually breaks, also transfers stick to my fingers like poo to a blanket, they prefer brushes to models,in fact more or less anything to going on were they should.

  • @SuperLordjohn Never tried using a brush myself, but have seen people doing it.. maybe I'll give it a go sometome.. :)

  • @SuperLordjohn I had the same problem, so I kept the tweezers apart while pick up the decals.

  • Cool an AVRO Lancaster T-Shirt. You don't see that every day.

  • @bzzhuh Available from the pier shop in Clacton-on-Sea.. :) :)

  • Can you use PVA (wood glue) to paint on the spot that you wish to place the decal and then paint it over the decal?

  • I wouldn't use PVA glue for decalling, no... :) :) Canopies, yes.. but not for decalling..

  • are airfix decals the same?

  • That depends.. the EARLY Airfix are normally quite easy to use, but they tend to be very poorly printed.. Then they had a period recently with very thin decals printed on a glossy backing paper, and they are normally very difficult to use.. sadly most of the kits in the stores now have those decals.. but the newest kits have decals that appear to be of a better quality.. AND in register.. so it totally depends on what Airfix kit you happen to end up with, if the decals are good or not..

  • Sorry I can't help you more than that.. :)

  • @BasicModelling thank you, i tiredit and it worked vary well

  • Glad to be of help.. :)

  • thanks for this video. helps me as a first time modeler applying water-slide decals.

  • That was the general idea behind the video.. :)

  • just acknowledging my appreciation, bud :)

  • Thank you... :) :)

  • Hey great how to, I imagine that KLEAR, is the equivalent to Johnson floor wax? JFW is basically a clear coat acrylic. Pretty sure it is still available as long as mankind has floors. I have used it pretty effectively with an airbrush.

    I am looking forward to your how to on older more delicate decals. My P-38 ones are cracking and giving me a hard time. Thanks again. -M

  • Yes, it's the same stuff.. also known as Future.. :) I will see when I next build a model with delicate decals, and make sure I remember to make a 'How To'.. :)

  • A lot of my models have suffered from decals "lifting" =/

    It's depressing! Your video has helped, although I'm not sure where to get (if possible) klear. . . I read it's discontinued in the UK now?

    Do you know of any other alternative products I can use to prevent my decals lifting?

    Thanks

  • You can still get it in some shops, like Robert Dyas... but there are quite a few products dedicated for modellers, like MicroSol and MicroSet.. which you should be able to order online if you don't have a local model shop.. and I think you can order Klear on line as well, still.. Hope this has helped you.. :)

  • i'm just getting back into the hobby when i was a kid it was the transfers that always messed up so this was a great help.

    questions:

    is it important to wear gloves?

    why can you not apply to matt surfaces?

    thanks.

    V

  • No, you don't have to wear gloves at all.. :) It's just me.. and as for decalling on a matt surface, the decal doesn't stick down as well to a matt surface, and you may well end up with tiny airbubbles underneath, which will make the decals look very bad and silvered! The best way is to gloss varnish tye model, and then give it a coat of matt varnish after the decalling, That will help to protect the decals as well and stop them from lifting.. :)

  • thanks for the prompt reply TOZO in col? thats where i got my newest b-29

  • Yikes.. :) That's a long way to go from the Vatican State, to buy models.. :) :) Great little shop, friendly people, reasonable prices.. and the only real model dealer in town too! :) I go there at least once a week, normally.. sometimes even more often, if I happen to be in town anyway.. :)

  • 1 thing.Sorry for the correction,I know its frustrating.But they are decals not transfer.Transfers are like decals except you have to put them face down on something and apply moisture to the back.Decals are something that you wet and it comes off and you apply it on.Sorry for the correction if it annoys you.

  • Lots of people call decals transfers.. it's a commonly used name, be it correct or not.. I'm not fussy either way, I always used to call them 'decors' until I knew better.. :) :)

  • I was stunned when I saw that you just merely dipped the decals in the water for a second or 2. I'm going to try this method. I mainly have trouble with long thin decals. They terrify me lol. Thanks for the upload. 5/5

  • Me too.. long and thin decals are the worst.. but there's a way around everything! I prefer not to leave the decals in the water for too long, as it dissoves the glue.. but I probably should leave just a bit longer in the water than I do.. :)

  • sorry but that was not a quality

  • Good enough for me.. read my channel description, I do things my way, and if it helps somebody else, than that's good.. and if people don't like it.. well, that is fine too!! :)

  • What does the KLEAR do? Make a gloss surface?

  • It can do.. it can also make a matt surface, pending on how you use it.. I tebnd to use it for decals, canopies and as a varnish.. (generally gloss) :)

  • Is it safe to brush clear all over a finished models to protect it?

  • You're welcome.. Can't guarantee it works for everyone, but if it has helped you at all, than that's good.. :)

  • Haven't seen it yet, but posted a video response... :)

  • I never watch your videos either... :) :)

  • nice video...that discarded model can be added to the discarded stuff to make a large diorama of an attacked airfield...or thrown into the bin :)

  • What discarded model?? :)

  • I believe you said something of the sort, perhaps a model that you gave up working upon...just look at your video LOL :)

  • i want your t-shirt so much

  • I should have a spare one somewhere.. IF I can find it, it will be a prize in one of my coming competitions.. :)

  • I drop my decals in the water and leave it there for a bit, then i come bakc from lunch or somethin and rub the decal on the paper to see if it's ready to slide off, if so i put water on where i want the decal then i just slide it off and remove any excess water from the model with a paper towel.... any improvements you could make would be appreciated! :)

  • great advises..

    Liked the T-shirt too.

    Congrats toyour 100th video..

    and its and 5* again..

  • Congrats on the 100 dude! thanks for the vid - decals are a bugger! :P

  • As a kid I learned somewhere that you put the trimmed decal upside down in lukewarm water until the back has completely saturated. From there, put it in place and slide the paper from under it so the decal drops on it's destination directly or usually a variation of this anyways.

    Recently I discovered solvaset, microsol, et al, and mixed those into the brew. Have not tried the floor wax trick yet.

  • Cool, I like to watch your video`s altough I never build models.

  • whats the point of wearing gloves

  • No fingerprints.. decals don't stick to your fingers (as easily).. keeps your hands clean, as well as the model..

    ..covers up my ugly nails.. :)

  • Thanks for uploading!

    I wanted to try this, but couldn't find KLEAR anywhere.

    But I will soon order a bottle of Micro-SOL and Micro-SET.

    Hope that will work out well!

    Congrats, BTW. :D

  • Yes, I will test that sytem too, once I can get my hands on abottle of whichever one I'm missing.. I find this works good for me though! Klear is on its way out and off the market, unfortunately.. but you can still buy it on the internet... :)

  • interesting

  • Yes.. :)

  • Congratulation for your 100th videos :) i like your videos.....Pretty tutorial i dont know this method , but is interesting .

  • Thank you.. I find it bworks fine for me, but I'm willing to try other methods too.. :)

  • Cool I can use this on my trains!!

  • Good luck.. :)

  • Flying visit, get it flying..planes..oh well,lol, hope you are well r.

  • At the moment things are not too bad, actually.. but tomorrow the next lot of CT is due.. poor thing.. :P

  • congrats on 100 vids!!!

  • Thank you muchly.. :)

  • btw are you going to C4 open in malmö?

  • No, I'm not likely to go back home until my son is sorted.. but if you're going please bring the camera.. :) :)

  • i will...)

  • I use Micro-sol as the wetting agent on the model

    and slide the decal onto it with a paint brush

    which has been wetted with the same stuff.

    Ater positioning I wick some of the microsol

    off with the corner of a napkin. Then I let the whole thing dry out undisturbed before doing the next one. On irregular surfaces I come back and apply Micro-set which is a decal softener that lets gravity work it into any rough spots. The products are from Microscale and

    smell like vinegar. Clean the surface.

  • Yes, I know of the Micro Sol and Set system.. just haven't tried it yet!! I have a bottle of Micro Sol in the drawer, but no Set.. as yet! I just found the Klear worked for me and never had any reason really to try anything else.. :)

  • oh I never used to use anyhing to stick them on.. or paint for that matter. but I did used to make rude words with the leftover bits if that helps!

    By the was I was disappointed that the bottle top didn't mean there was a simltaneous real ale review!

  • There can't possibly be an Ale -review, as this is a cider top.. :) It's also well proven that even though alcohol goes together with most things, plastic modelling is NOT one of them!! :) I don't make rude words as much as I say them most of the time, when I find that a carefully applied decal still ended up wonky after it dried on.. :P

  • Talking of cider - I have found that Libby's apple juice (2 cartons to make a gallon) with about 750 grams of sugar - tablespoon of lemon juice - teaspoon of wine yeast - ferments in a week to 10 days into a really tasty medium dry cider.

    Which of course has nothing to do with drunken decals but I thought I would offer it free

  • I'll definetely con-cider that option.. ;)

  • There's as many tricks as there are modellers.. :)

  • i usually leave my decals in the water for about 30secs - 1minute, then if you have a cocktail stick, or even a cotton bud you can easily slide it off... but i usually slide my decals onto the model.. but will be sure to give this a go

  • I use that method too, mainly when the decals are thin or could break easily for any other reason.. I have also seen modellers using the point of a brush to move the decal on to the model, but I prefer tweezers.. as long as you go careful, that is.. :)

  • Mind you, I have left them in the water for too long sometimes.. it's not easy to catch them when they float.. also if left too long the glue on the back will dissolve.. that's why I only dip them in the water.. :)

  • it happened to me once, the adhesive dissolved... but luckily i had some aftermarket decals which i used... damn i miss all my old models

  • long awaited. Not just the 100th but also how to alctually use floor polish to stick decals on a model.

    Conga rats Robert

  • where does the conga rats live...) big up on the 100th... cheers mate...)

  • They live under the toilets.. erh, sorry.. the lifts at Hovedbanegarden.. sometimes it's hard to tell the difference.. :) Not that I can understand how anyone can manage to use those lifts for their convenience, as they run quite fast.. but the smell is quite bad, sometimes.. :)

    There's also the classic Danish lift sign: 'I Fart'..

    Here's to the next 100.. :)

  • Yes, it's been long in the making.. but I got there in the end!! :)

    Thank you.. :) I'll be back to you, just haven't had the time yet.. as such.. :)

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