tbh as a beginner climber you dnt need cams to complete a rack, when i first bought my rack (about 18months ago) all i had was a set or wired nuts and a set of hexentrics and a load of slings and karabiners, that pretty much works on most grade climbs that beginners would start to lead on, i mean cams only really start coming into play on grit stone climbing with grade above S or VDIFF i didnt start placing cams until i was leading at VS and even then hexentrics are just as useful to a beginner
Good Video Mike and thanks for the tip. I just re-strung some of my old 1st generation friends (8) with 5.5mm BlueWater Titan Dynema cord in the way you described 13.7KN ought to be just fine. And I am toying with the idea of using my wire rope swaging tool (copper head maker)to string the 3.5s & 4s with cable. Actually you saved me from spending > than $500.00 replacing those cams. Thanks man!!!
Its generally a bad idea to buy used climbing gear of any kind off the internet because you don't know the condition. It could turn out that you bought a damaged cam or nut, etc and you would have been ripped off. Thats just my superstition anyways. If I get used gear i ensure the quality of it personally.
@afterthought9 Sharp edges certianly would not be ideal but if your run out and need gear don't pass it up. It takes a lot to cut a cord though I know that some rock can be near razor sharp. Be aware and get another piece in as soon as possible.
@mikebarter387 You sure? It's definitely not a camalot, 3:07 shows a single axle. I just guessed clog because i know around that size is teal. Not wild country either for sure. Hmmm...the only other one i can think of that looks like that is maybe a Cassin Joss or an Advanced Base Camp cam.
@chokeonaloaf Your right it is single axle but still think it is a camalot or pre camalot freind. Not sure will head down to the gear room in the morning see if I can find it. Good eye there bud.
do you have a "how to" video on down climbing with cams. Im confused on this... If im a lead and my partner is belaying me... once i reach the top i anchor and have him come up... when we are both on top what is the safest way to come down and remove our cams?
@h1mans You don't do anything even close to what you are describing. How about your second removing the cams on the way up so you have gear to lead the next pitch. You have a way to go and learn before you have to worry about this.
@MrBojangles447 There is a place called switching gear in Canmore alberta that has dozens hanging fromthe ceiling. Send them a email and see what you can do. Which ones do you need? I may have a few.
@mikebarter387 i've only used these once and it beat my usual climbing gear I'm slowly trying to put a whole set together so all i have at the moment is a size 1. i finally let my friends convince me to use slcd's. i'm used to using makeshift nuts and jammed monkeys fist nots for cracks too big for nuts. i know the monkeys fist doesn't sound safe but when made with a rock they have never failed me.
I have heard it said that its good to place them in horror-zontals so that the outer cams are on the downward side of the crack. This helps prevent the cam "walking". That is, as the climber climbs on, and the rope swings side to side, the cam can get moved from side to side also. This side to side action can cause the cam to "walk" or move its way into the crack. This can result in either the cam getting jammed and hard to get out, or the cam walking to a wider part of the crack and releasing
@leighblackall I'm not convinced that this will stop walking. Couple people an enginneer and Peter Arbic said that all things being equal outer cams down. Really a couple months ago is the first time I ever heard this mentioned. Think it was on this page actually.
@mikebarter387 Yeah, I don't think its that bigger deal, especially with the lovely cams you feature. Then again, when your freaking out and a long way passed your last placement, every little bit of reassurance helps :) Nice vid tho, the skier reference cracked me up. Made it all Rated M though, not one I can show the kids too easily ;)
@Fr0mTh3V3RT1CAL1 They never sit perfectly even. I think as long as you have a range of expansion on both lobes(cams) your fine. However saying that I do try to place them in the direction of load and cams as even as possible. That is based on a gut instinct nothing else. It would seem to maske sense though.
@petbobina I thought it was obvious that it is for horizontal placements. So you are not levering the stem but by clipping the cord the cam pulls in the intended diriction of pull. Increasing the chances of the thing holding and not damaging the cam.
@WeBeChillin420 If your asking me I would say this is the best video on cams I have ever seen. Mind you it is the only one I have ever seen and having made it I might be viewed as bias.
hey mike great videos. quick question. i've always heard on a horizontal cam placements that the two wider lobes should be facing down. do u think that has any effect on the placement?
how do i watch a few of this guy's under 10 minute videos and feel like i would trust him with my life? excellent beta, great presentation mike, going to look for more of your stuff... let's get this guys daughter in school before shes at our crags making us look bad (hope im not too late for that)
Your videos are awsome!!! I didnt think they could get much better, but your newer video are funny and informative. I laughed my ass off at the transmitting SLCD joke! Thanks so much.
Thats a tough one to answer. Have a real long look at the aliens. I love those puppies for the mid to small sizes. They have something about them that fits real well in so many places. They are hard to find sometimes but get the set when you get a chance.
# 1, #2 Camalot are must have units. I would cover mid sizes with cams. Micro stuff is best covered with wires they are more reliable at the real small sizes.
Thats a fair question. First I would assume that nobody would willingly sell something that took a fall like that. If they did drop that far on to a rock it would be certain that it showed marks on some place other then the load section of the cam. Not sure a fall factor 1 is excessive 2 maybe. Cams will show will deformation or compression on the outside of the cam. Ask why they are selling, inspect carefully then ask, "do I trust this dirtbag". I have bought several over the years.
Hi Joe, how safe do you think it is to buy used cams? I saw a set of cams for $175 at a gear sale but what if they were dropped 100 feet onto a rock, or took a factor 1 or 2 fall during their lifespan?
My guess is that better then 90% of the cams out there have never felt the force of a fall of any kind. WE place them all the time but most of us are to chicken to ever push it hard enough to fall on the things. You also have no way of knowing if the cam you bought at the gear shop was made on a friday night or a monday morning.
Metolius for life!
BSnowLGT 3 days ago
tbh as a beginner climber you dnt need cams to complete a rack, when i first bought my rack (about 18months ago) all i had was a set or wired nuts and a set of hexentrics and a load of slings and karabiners, that pretty much works on most grade climbs that beginners would start to lead on, i mean cams only really start coming into play on grit stone climbing with grade above S or VDIFF i didnt start placing cams until i was leading at VS and even then hexentrics are just as useful to a beginner
cjjustthebest 1 week ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Good Video Mike and thanks for the tip. I just re-strung some of my old 1st generation friends (8) with 5.5mm BlueWater Titan Dynema cord in the way you described 13.7KN ought to be just fine. And I am toying with the idea of using my wire rope swaging tool (copper head maker)to string the 3.5s & 4s with cable. Actually you saved me from spending > than $500.00 replacing those cams. Thanks man!!!
1138thz 1 week ago
Comment removed
1138thz 1 week ago
Its generally a bad idea to buy used climbing gear of any kind off the internet because you don't know the condition. It could turn out that you bought a damaged cam or nut, etc and you would have been ripped off. Thats just my superstition anyways. If I get used gear i ensure the quality of it personally.
onlythefacts999 1 month ago
blah blah blah.... lol. love the vid. thanks
bigphiltheshootist 3 months ago in playlist More videos from mikebarter387
this is bullshit...Ive seen his sister!
chaseybears 8 months ago
I guess you wouldn't want to use the first gen cam with the cord over a remotely sharp edge...
afterthought9 8 months ago
@afterthought9 Sharp edges certianly would not be ideal but if your run out and need gear don't pass it up. It takes a lot to cut a cord though I know that some rock can be near razor sharp. Be aware and get another piece in as soon as possible.
The Mike
mikebarter387 8 months ago
thats really cool! thanks for the vid!! keep them comming!!
MrMattaoe 9 months ago
Hey mike, is that blue "medium sized cam" you used for the vertical placement one of the old clog cams?
chokeonaloaf 10 months ago
@chokeonaloaf No most likely a small camolot, don't own any clogs.
mikebarter387 10 months ago
@chokeonaloaf No not likely as I don't have a clog. camalots mostly and whatever else I can pilfer
mikebarter387 5 months ago
@mikebarter387 You sure? It's definitely not a camalot, 3:07 shows a single axle. I just guessed clog because i know around that size is teal. Not wild country either for sure. Hmmm...the only other one i can think of that looks like that is maybe a Cassin Joss or an Advanced Base Camp cam.
chokeonaloaf 5 months ago
@chokeonaloaf Your right it is single axle but still think it is a camalot or pre camalot freind. Not sure will head down to the gear room in the morning see if I can find it. Good eye there bud.
mikebarter387 5 months ago
@chokeonaloaf Looks like a clog to me.
dandamantk 4 months ago
Another way to build your rack is to get hex's instead of trying to find the old cams.
nicomorg1 10 months ago
do you have a "how to" video on down climbing with cams. Im confused on this... If im a lead and my partner is belaying me... once i reach the top i anchor and have him come up... when we are both on top what is the safest way to come down and remove our cams?
h1mans 1 year ago
@h1mans You don't do anything even close to what you are describing. How about your second removing the cams on the way up so you have gear to lead the next pitch. You have a way to go and learn before you have to worry about this.
mikebarter387 1 year ago 6
you have the best climbing instruction vids on youtube, your what expervillage should be with there name.
cookingwithian 1 year ago
i've been looking for the first generation cams to complete my set but i can't seem to find them anywhere. any hints?
MrBojangles447 1 year ago
@MrBojangles447 There is a place called switching gear in Canmore alberta that has dozens hanging fromthe ceiling. Send them a email and see what you can do. Which ones do you need? I may have a few.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 i've only used these once and it beat my usual climbing gear I'm slowly trying to put a whole set together so all i have at the moment is a size 1. i finally let my friends convince me to use slcd's. i'm used to using makeshift nuts and jammed monkeys fist nots for cracks too big for nuts. i know the monkeys fist doesn't sound safe but when made with a rock they have never failed me.
MrBojangles447 1 year ago
I have heard it said that its good to place them in horror-zontals so that the outer cams are on the downward side of the crack. This helps prevent the cam "walking". That is, as the climber climbs on, and the rope swings side to side, the cam can get moved from side to side also. This side to side action can cause the cam to "walk" or move its way into the crack. This can result in either the cam getting jammed and hard to get out, or the cam walking to a wider part of the crack and releasing
leighblackall 1 year ago
@leighblackall I'm not convinced that this will stop walking. Couple people an enginneer and Peter Arbic said that all things being equal outer cams down. Really a couple months ago is the first time I ever heard this mentioned. Think it was on this page actually.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 Yeah, I don't think its that bigger deal, especially with the lovely cams you feature. Then again, when your freaking out and a long way passed your last placement, every little bit of reassurance helps :) Nice vid tho, the skier reference cracked me up. Made it all Rated M though, not one I can show the kids too easily ;)
leighblackall 1 year ago
Comment removed
leighblackall 1 year ago
Yes mike, do the cam lobes have to be expanded equally inside the crack to be functional
Fr0mTh3V3RT1CAL1 1 year ago
@Fr0mTh3V3RT1CAL1 They never sit perfectly even. I think as long as you have a range of expansion on both lobes(cams) your fine. However saying that I do try to place them in the direction of load and cams as even as possible. That is based on a gut instinct nothing else. It would seem to maske sense though.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
LOL great video!!
ogdemigod 1 year ago
I do not understand why he has the bit of rope tied through the hole in the 'old school' cam? Anyone have any suggestions? thanks!
petbobina 1 year ago
@petbobina I thought it was obvious that it is for horizontal placements. So you are not levering the stem but by clipping the cord the cam pulls in the intended diriction of pull. Increasing the chances of the thing holding and not damaging the cam.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
i hate when skiers attack my sister
pawlesome 1 year ago
is this video good give good info?
does he do anything wrong in this video?
WeBeChillin420 1 year ago
@WeBeChillin420 If your asking me I would say this is the best video on cams I have ever seen. Mind you it is the only one I have ever seen and having made it I might be viewed as bias.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
like i was tryin to pull a shkieer of my shiirster
gangsterchoad1 1 year ago
love your humor, its inspiring!
usernametakenthis 1 year ago 4
hey mike great videos. quick question. i've always heard on a horizontal cam placements that the two wider lobes should be facing down. do u think that has any effect on the placement?
jip182 1 year ago
@jip182 yes yes yes wider should be on the bottom
TheATLAdventure 1 year ago
@jip182 I asked around and yes I guess all things being equal the wider should be down but it was news to me.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
love this channel, guy seems really genuine and loves climbing, this knowledge is going to be invaluable
martinmedeski 1 year ago
that cam was as big as your head!!!
paintbaler94 2 years ago
@paintbaler94 nothing is bigger then my head
mikebarter387 1 year ago 6
youre videos have really helped me man...thank you
c4t2f0 2 years ago
thanks mike.
danfurtick 2 years ago
how do i watch a few of this guy's under 10 minute videos and feel like i would trust him with my life? excellent beta, great presentation mike, going to look for more of your stuff... let's get this guys daughter in school before shes at our crags making us look bad (hope im not too late for that)
shabbaamyas 2 years ago
Your videos are awsome!!! I didnt think they could get much better, but your newer video are funny and informative. I laughed my ass off at the transmitting SLCD joke! Thanks so much.
jordanxkillyou 2 years ago
these are great videos too.
i have donated before and am thinking of again.
keep up the good work
lookinthemirror100 2 years ago
hey joe,
just wondering what you would say are the most useful sizes . I am looking at black diamonds but am not going to buy a full set yet.
lookinthemirror100 2 years ago
Thats a tough one to answer. Have a real long look at the aliens. I love those puppies for the mid to small sizes. They have something about them that fits real well in so many places. They are hard to find sometimes but get the set when you get a chance.
# 1, #2 Camalot are must have units. I would cover mid sizes with cams. Micro stuff is best covered with wires they are more reliable at the real small sizes.
Sorry not much help.
The Mike
mikebarter387 2 years ago
Love the new camera Mike. Keep spewing the good Beta.
dmosier 2 years ago
Thats a fair question. First I would assume that nobody would willingly sell something that took a fall like that. If they did drop that far on to a rock it would be certain that it showed marks on some place other then the load section of the cam. Not sure a fall factor 1 is excessive 2 maybe. Cams will show will deformation or compression on the outside of the cam. Ask why they are selling, inspect carefully then ask, "do I trust this dirtbag". I have bought several over the years.
mikebarter387 2 years ago
Hi Joe, how safe do you think it is to buy used cams? I saw a set of cams for $175 at a gear sale but what if they were dropped 100 feet onto a rock, or took a factor 1 or 2 fall during their lifespan?
plapides 2 years ago
My guess is that better then 90% of the cams out there have never felt the force of a fall of any kind. WE place them all the time but most of us are to chicken to ever push it hard enough to fall on the things. You also have no way of knowing if the cam you bought at the gear shop was made on a friday night or a monday morning.
mikebarter387 2 years ago
1 to 10 guess I would say 8
mikebarter387 2 years ago
The comment bove is directed t your question also
mikebarter387 2 years ago
great video, thanks for the lesson.
adthevenet 2 years ago