Added: 2 years ago
From: mrpete222
Views: 36,339
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  • Thank you so much for this video i have dreamed about making parterns for a 1/3 scale traction engine i havent decided weather to just make the paterns and have a foundry cast them or buy everything and do it myself, witch do you think would be easyer on the wallet? Thanks for all the info

  • found vidieo very well maide and helpful .but was aondering might you be a travling man

  • Hi Tubal,

    thanks for all the great videos.

    I noticed in both your castings you did not punch a riser in the cope side. I have always used a riser (since that is how I was taught in my High school metals class on casting). Is there an advantage of not using the riser?

    \thanks again!

  • @lodcomm You can get away without risers on smaller & thinner castings.

  • Yes you don't always have to use a riser. it depends on your component and your gating. Risers are meant to feed a casting while its solidifying to prevent shrink. The largest and hottest areas will solidify last and shrink. Depending on your component (size, complexity) an oversize spru will feed all of the components needs. In this case adding a riser will reduce the yield of the casting and only require more metal. It is a case by case basis.

  • Can you cast a ladybug? Love the series and it is nice to put a face to the name.

  • That is just great!That autofocus on that camera it's disturbing though!

  • thank you man, im 13 and im a jack of all trade and thanks to you know i know how to make really desent alumunum parts, so thank you truly

  • I really appreciate your effort at putting this Masterpiece together. It's very informative. My Late Father is a Steel Magnate with a Steel Rolling and Foundry which went moribund some years back months before his death. I'm planning to restart the foundry on a commercial basis and this video has really helped me in understanding the foundry process which I've been reading over months.

    Thanks for your good work

  • wow thats beautiful thanks for making this video

  • Depends on what you're making. Depending on the size of the flask, it may require that you use a clay or, sometimes, synthetic bonding agent with sea-coal to maintain the integrity of the sand. I recommend that, before you you do anything at home, you visit a commercial/industrial sized foundry before beginning any work whatsoever. Contrary to the video, most patterns actually include the gates with the risers (for the pattern) being interchangable and separately attached.

  • Very nice series of videos, I especially like Foundry Work. Im building a small charcoal forge to begin hammering my own knives and I hope to be able to use it to melt some metal too. Do you know (or would you be willing to share) any recipes for some homemade casting sand? I hope its as easy as sifting some fine sand and adding oil, haha. Thanks very much for any information.

  • I use a commercially made sand--called petrobond. It is oil bonded, but there are other chemicals also that make it bond, If you are making small castings with a small mold, use core sand . One of my other videos mentions this.

  • My budget is kind of small right now, is there a way to make some casting sand at home so I can gain some experience before I buy any commercial sand?

  • Not that I know of.

  • @MetalheadJTK Hi,i was in the same situation as you.I found that sharp sand and fireclay works ok. About 10:1 sand/clay.This mix needs to be lightly misted with water,just untill it starts to hold together when squeezed in the hand.

  • @djpaulk In an incredible coincidence, I literally just found this out yesterday thanks to a DVD series I ordered. Are you a witch? Haha, thank you very much.

  • @MetalheadJTK Silica sand, the finest grain you can find, western bentonite and water. Thats what I'm using, for 100lbs it cost me around 20 dollars.

  • @mrpete222 well made and helpful vedio.might you be a travling man

  • I only use one sprue for small castings. For big castings, the second one allows the air & gases to escape. Also serves a riser to control shrinkage. You want the shrinkage to occur in the thick riser rather than the casting. it feeds the casting as it cools thereby eliminating most shrinkage.

    gates do not have to angle. Yes, parting is like the talc. Thanks for your interest.

  • I'm new and learning and am about to try my first sand mold. You only made one "Sprue" hole. When would you need two? I've seen other videos with a second hole. Does it have to do with the metal filling the mold completely or shrinkage? Does the gates off the sprue have to be angled down towards the mold or does it not matter? Is parting sand to petro-bond as talc power is to green sand? Thank you for the vids and your help, very inspiring.

  • Great video! I just wanted to know where I could get the parting compound

  • Thanks. Got the parting on ebay some years back.

  • Fantastic video. Where did you get the flask?

  • The round one is homemade. the square one is from an auction. Thanks.

  • Thanks! Excellent description of the process.  I kept asking myself questions throughout the video, and you kept answering them! Your experience really shows through.

  • Brilliant! I've never seen this done before and it is really interesting.

    Thank you for doing this,

    Brendan

  • Thanks!!!

  • Well presented and useful information, thanks.

  • Thanks for your support

  • Once again, excellent presentation.

    Thanks.

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