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  • This was a great video....fixed my Kenmore in an hour! Thanks!!!

  • Thanks for the help!!!!!

  • @jake20214 My pleasure! Thanks for the comment!

  • You totally helped me out, thanks!!!

  • Great video... I have been working with my whirpool dryer for some days... the flame was turning on at the begining but after a while the ignitor turned on but not the flame, so, it wasn´t heating. I checked every thing, and all pieces have continuity, so I decided to replace the gas valv selenoid coil kit. The flame is turning on now, but it doesn´t turn off... it´s supose to turn off after a few minutes, right? I have learned a lot these days about dryers, but don´t know what else to do.

  • @lorisbs Thanks!

    You can monitor the cycling temperature with a meat thermometer at the rear duct. On hi heat it should cycle off somewhere around 160-170º and back on around 100-110º you can also look at you cycling thermostat and see what the target open/close temp should be, but it will be slightly cooler as the air is leaving the dryer. If it does not cycle off eventually the hi-limit thermostat or thermal fuse will open. Email me through the site If you have any other questions.

  • @applianceassistant , wow, your answer was fast! thanks! well, while waiting for your answers I runed the dryer, turning the heat temperature to just air once in a while, making the flame turn off for a while. And when I was going to do this again I noticed that the flame turned off by itself!.. mmm.. I probably wasn´t waiting enough!. So, it looks that this cycle just went ok. I have to dry more cloth afther this cycle... so, I will be checking. Many thanks. Your web page is great!

  • I watched the video, but I am unclear about the problem with my dryer. The igniter lights up, the gas is released and the dryer heats up, but it appears that it does not re-ignite and so the clothes don't dry completely. Is this the sensor/thermostat in the back or the two coils that control the gas flow? thanks in advance for the clarification!

  • @TMGADTXTER What is the brand and model number of your dryer? After the dryer has heated and cycled off, does the ignitor glow again and then go out with no burner ignition? If you turn the dryer off for an hour or so will it heat again?

  • @applianceassistant I have the same prob whirlpool

  • @applianceassistant

    This is the exact problem I have. The heat goes on but goes off after a few minutes. After turning off and letting it sit for a while, the same thing will happen, heat goes on for a few minutes then off again. Which part should I look at?

  • @applianceassistant

    This is the best video that I can find on youtube. I have the same issue as TMGADTXTER, the dryer doesn't re-ignite, I checked the igniter is working properly and just no flame. My dryer is Wirlpool lgb6300. Thank you very much

  • i have done troubleshooting on my whirlpool gas dryer ...i have change the coils and replaced the flame sensor.....still when turning on it glows for about 7-10 sec then slowly goes out still no heat what else can i do

  • @ace3shotgun7 If you have replaced the coils and are sure they fit well and are installed properly then it sounds like you have a gas supply problem. All you can do check that the gas is getting to the dryer if it is you may have a bad dryer gas valve, very rare but possible. But first take a good look at the coils and make sure they are sitting well on top of the valve and the bracket is mounted properly.

  • Thanks,for the video. you help me fix my Dryer and save a few buck$.

  • @garciaJo65 Thanks for watching and commenting! I'm glad it helped!

  • I have a whirlpool model LGB6200PQ0. My dryer is not heating up, it glows orange an the flame starts. After 10 minutes the dryer stops drying. Turn back on after it cools down an it repeats the same thing. Checked the air ducts an found no lint. What do you recommend.

  • @TBBJ2011 In most cases replacing the coils located on top of the valve should solve your problem. If you need parts please find them through the links on my website. There is a link to ApplianceAssistant . Com in the description of this video.

    If you have any other questions please feel free to email me through the website and I can be more specific. Thanks!

  • Thank you sir. You were right on. I pulled the duct off where it connects to the dryer and it was clogged. You are the best.

  • @lombo69 Congratulations! Thanks for the update!

  • By the way, I have a kenmore dryer model 87873100

  • my dryer ignitor glows,then the flame starts and then it clecks and the flame goes off. I can repeat the process right away with the same results. I don't have to wait for it to cool down . What do you think.

  • @lombo69 Sounds like you have a clogged duct somewhere, it could be internal if you have already tried to run it with the ducting off the back. The only other thing I can think of mechanically would be the hi-limit thermostat part# 279048 malfunctioning, but most likely it is doing it's job correctly and cutting power to the burner due to a clog of lint somewhere. If you happen to need a part... purchasing it through ApplianceAssistant . Com would be greatly appreciated! Happy Thanksgiving!

  • My maytag dryer is not blowing out heat. Its blowing out air but not hot air. One site suggested that I change the igniter kit, so I did. It lights up but my dryer still is NOT getting hot. And there is no fire starting in the tunnel/tube thing made of sheet metal. I've watched a video that suggets made its the valve coils or the thermostat. what do u think?

  • @Charismabucceri If you can see the ignitor heat up and cycle off with no flame then it is almost certainly the coils that need replacement. If the ignitor glows it okay in almost all cases. However if the ignitor heats up and does not cycle off then you need a new sensor on the side of the burner tube. If you do need to get parts I would greatly appreciate buying them through the links on ApplianceAssistant . Com! If you have any other questions let me know!

  • Wow. Your video helped me troubleshoot and repair a dryer very similar to the one in your video, AND another dryer very different from the one in your video!

    THANK YOU!

  • @BasicBeatMusic Thanks for the comment! Glad I could help!

  • Great Video. I get heat on start up and then after a few minutes the heat turns off and does not come back on until after about 10 minutes when everything cools back down. I am guessing I have a cycling thermostat failure and the system is cycling on the hi limit thermostat. Does this sound like a correct diagnosis. I already mistakenly replaced the hi limit thermostat and don't want to make another costly mis-diagnosis.

  • @MegaFlyman9 If your dryer is gas I would go with the valve coils... if the burner ignitor is glowing but the burner will not light you know that the thermostats are okay and it's probably the burner coils. However if the ignitor stops trying to ignite the burner then you probably do have a problem with one of the thermostats. Feel free to email me through ApplianceAssistant . com if you have any questions and I can get a little more detailed. Hope that helps some, Good luck!

  • @applianceassistant--very helpful video, I have a similar problem as the above comment. Burner igniter glows followed shortly by the burner turning on thereby heating. However after a couple minutes it shuts off and wont burn again until it apparently it cools off. Any suggestions? Thank you for ur time.

  • @applianceassistant . I have a similar problem as above. Igniter glows, burner turns on and heats for a few minutes and then shuts off. It wont turn on again until it apparently cools down. Please let me know if you have any suggestions..thanks for your time.

  • @gloweify If after it has cycled off you observe the ignitor glow again and click off without burner ignition then you should replace the coils on the valve. If the ignitor does not cycle and glow again then you may have a cycling or hi-limit thermostat problem. Or perhaps your ducting is clogged, or your blower ... Lets just start with the first question and go from there :) Also what is your dryer's model number?

  • Hi. My gas dryer gets hot on the high setting but does not heat on any other setting. The timed high heat will progress on its own. The auto dry mode does not progress or heat up. It is a Whirlpool lgr 7646eq3. Any advice? Thanks!

  • @srelliott83 Sorry for taking so long in getting back with you. By the wire diagram I would think that you may have a problem with the temp selection switch or the wire harness that connects to the temp selector switch. The harness has 2 inline resistors (1 10Ω & 1 10KΩ) I would check those for resistance with the harness unplugged. or there is a timer contact problem from orange to white/black wire at timer switch 0. hard to say for sure without actually checking voltage at the timer contact.

  • Thanks, this was very helpful. I was 95% sure the valve coils were my problem as the coil was glowing, I would hear a click, and then no fire after. I could even smell the gas in the cold wet clothes. I replaced the coils and it fired up the first try. The only problem is it didn't fire up the next 20 times I tested it. Pretty frustrating and not sure what to try next. Is the metal plate to the coils any type of factor? It looks ok but small corrosion spots. Any thoughts?

  • Ugg...I have spent hours trying to diagnose my gas HE4t dryer. At times it works....I've tested the thermal fuse, thermister and coils. It will dry for 10 minutes or more, then quit cycling the heat or make a loud rattle sound from the flame area, similar to loose change in the drum but is not. I hate to replace/pay for good parts like everyone else. I may try to post a video of the crazy noise if I can reproduce it.

  • @kenbro63 In my experience replacing the valve coils will get you going and stop the noise in the valve 90-95% of the time.

    If you would be so kind as to purchase the parts through my website ApplianceAssistant . Com I would be very grateful! Good luck!

  • Bought the new coils and still no heat. The only part I havent tested (other than the flame assy) is the high temp limit thermostat...doesnt seem like that would cause this problem though?

    Seems I can return the coils for a refund though so that is nice.

    Thanks ~

  • @kenbro63 That's a tough one... If the valve coils did not solve it I would lean toward the valve itself.  Of course check the hi-limit first but I doubt it. You will also want to pull the valve out and take a close look down the orifice where the gas comes out. I had one case where a spider had built an egg inside the valve orifice that was strong enough to bock the gas flow. If you actually open the valve assembly it will need to be replaced! The valve itself IS NOT serviceable.

  • Thank you so much for an amazing service. I used your video to troubleshoot my non-heating Kenmore 70. No glow, no ignition. Checked the thermal fuse, flame switch, and ignitor- according to your video. All seem OK. I'm using a wiring diagram for the 1st time - checked current from red timer wire to neutral prong and it shows no resistance. One more thing- the timer counts down to just before zero but never shuts off (don't know if this counts) - not sure what to do!!! Thanks for any advice.....

  • @laro177 If every component checks out and the igniter is still not glowing you will probably need to check for voltage coming from the timer to the heating circuit. Please send me an email through my website and I will give you my phone number so we can try to figure this thing out. Applianceassistant . Com

  • Appliance assistant, you guys Rock! I researched the symptom in your comments and matched it up to my issue to the "T", and followed your great video advice and replaced my coils. The problem fixed with my two year old Whirlpool gas dryer. Thanks for the advice.

  • Excellent job 'appliance assistant' of putting your video together (very detailed and easy to fallow. With the help of you video I was able to get my Kenmore 80 Series (Gas) Drier up and running in no time.

    We live in such an incredible time with all the technology we have today, (AIN'T IT GREAT)! Keep up the GOOD Work!

  • @bellcherian Thanks for the comment, Glad I could help! 

  • I have a Whirlpool Inglis gas dryer, model number IGD4300SQ0. It has stopped drying/heating on the automatic cycle. It now only heats on the timed cycles. What is the likley problem, and can an homeowner fix this problem?

  • @tifnik3 Model IGD4300sq0 has all temperature settings on the timer. Because the dryer works properly on the timed dry cycles we know that the heating circuit works... So I would venture to guess that the timer is not supplying power to the heating circuit during the automatic cycles and needs to be replaced. (Timer is part#8299764) The only way to know for sure is by checking for 120Volts coming from the timer to the heating circuit you would need a wire diagram to know what wire.

  • @applianceassistant If you email me through ApplianceAssistant . com I will give you my phone number and we can talk more specifically about how to test, replace the timer. I can also send you a link to buy that timer with a 1 year warranty.

  • I have a kenmore 80 series Gas dryer I bought used. It worked for 1 day ... :-(

    1. igniter glow no flame (I replaced 2 coils)

    2. Now Igniter glow flame start and last for less than 10 seconds.

    Now what else can I do ?? Please help I but parts from your store

  • Kenmore 70 Series GAS Dryer Not Heating up serial 11076712694.. The dryer spins and lights up. I removed the front peep hole and saw that there is what seems to be a glow coming from the bottom of the unit which I'm assuming is the the heating coil, it shortly fades out like a candle within a few seconds, I don't see an ignition of gas. The coil or glow seems to cycle on and off every three minutes.

  • @cvtogate All Kenmore dryers starting with 110. are Whirlpool built and are almost identical to what you see in the video. You are exactly describing the symptoms of bad valve coils. Don't buy them individually! It is actually less expensive to buy them as a set. And then you are sure to get the one that's acting up. I would greatly appreciate it if you would consider buying through my website ApplianceAssistant . Com and support this service! Thanks!! If you have any trouble email me!

  • Thanks for the video; very helpful!

  • can you explain why the hell the heat sometimes occur but then I try it again it doesn't blow heat?

  • @MonsterSpartan Well first thought would be bad valve coils...If you let the dryer cool off for an hour and try again do you get heat? what is your brand and model number?

  • @applianceassistant the brand is Maytag or something like that.. and I don't know what the model number is.

  • @MonsterSpartan well...with the amount of information that you have supplied, I would loosely guess the two black coils on top of your gas valve.

  • @applianceassistant oho okay cool thanks.. I'll try that.

  • I think that I have the same problem, my dryers starts burning gas, the igniter is turning on and off, but in like 15 second after it started burning gas( I see the flame) the gas stops. Does that mean that I have to replace the 2 black coils ?

  • @edwinyoutubification Not necessarily... When the igniter heats up and cycles off with no gas being released, the coil kit is the most common cause. However, when the gas just burns for a short time (15 seconds) then drops off suddenly, it is usually clogged home or internal air ducting, or the hi-limit thermostat. (side note: If you need parts I would greatly appreciate it if you would consider buying through the links on my website ApplianceAssistant . Com Thanks!)

  • IS THERE ANY WAY HOW I CAN TEST THE 2 BLACK COILS?

  • @edwinyoutubification Not really. You can check them for continuity; However, because they generally only fail when they are hot it is difficult to get an accurate reading. If the igniter heats up and cycles off with no heat...

    #1 it's the coils.

    #2 your gas to the dryer is off or blocked some how.

    #3 your dryer's burner valve is bad. (fairly expensive and very rare)

    If you need any parts...PLEASE PLEASE PRETTY PLEASE buy through ApplianceAssistant . Com to support these videos. THANKS!!

  • @applianceassistant :

    @applianceassistant . when the igniter get heat the flame start normally but in like 10 or 15 second turn off. i'm confuse, can the coil be the problem or the thermostat, I already check the thernostat and when i checked the 2 long conector i heard the sound in my meter it means is good but with the 2 closer conector i donot hear the noise it measn is good, but when i chech the same chort conectors with 20k i get a reading of 6.69 it means is goog ?

  • @applianceassistant hey is it possible that I may need to replace the heating element assembly?

  • @MonsterSpartan The heating element itself ether works or it doesn't, so being that you had said that it heats sometimes I would say that it is unlikely that the element is bad. I have been commenting as if you had a gas dryer...Is your dryer gas or electric? Gas dryers don't have heating elements. Model number would be helpful.

  • @applianceassistant I have a gas dryer and I have no idea where the model number is located... I've checked the back and I saw a tag that said something about Des with at least 13 digits

  • How do I test a cycling thermostat part #484291 found at repairclinic . com ? It has 5 cables going to it and I am not sure how to test it. Can you please help? Thank you so much!!!

  • @panagdimi It should only have 4 wires directly connected to it. The best way to check the thermostat for cycling accuracy is to use a meat thermometer to measure the temperature as it leaves the dryer at the duct, and observe the temperature fluctuations. on high heat it should be heating to around 160-180 and the it should cycle off and cool down to around 110-120 and back on again. Email me through my website ApplianceAssistant . Com for a more detailed description of testing procedures.

  • @applianceassistant - Man, thank you so much for the quick reply. I know it sounds crazy but I am 100% certain there are 5 leads connected to 1 red, 1 white, 1 blue and 2 purple cables. I will email more info (with pics) via your website. It all started when my Maytag dryer stopped producing any heat at all and I also noticed that the timer would not advance past a certain point. I did find a crack igniter, but got stuck after that because of this non-standard(?) cycling thermostat, cheers!

  • Unbelievable, great video. Great detail. I fixed my whirlpool dryer a couple of times in the past but this time it was firing on and the flame went out after 10 to 15 seconds. The comments and your very helpful replies to other gave me the answer. My vent was clogged from lint from a very fluffy blanket. Thank you

  • @alwayscan21 Thanks for the positive comments! It's always great to hear of a symptom, cause, and success!

  • DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Pls. e-mail me an address. What is a fair $ #. I owe you!!!

  • @munkdavid No problem my friend, thats what I'm here for! I'm glad you figured it out. Telling everyone you can think of about ApplianceAssistant . Com would be much appreciated! You can also "like" applianceassistant on facebook or writing some positive comment about applianceassistant on yahoo or something is a huge help if you have the time. Thanks again for watching and commenting. Victory!

  • HEY! Did as you said, had 120v at igniter leads, pushed the leads back on to igniter, (after unplugging machine, of course) plugged machine back,put it on high heat and igniter glowed, machine fired!!!Checked on low for kicks, fired!!!Could the only problem have been loose connection at igniter? When I first took machine apart that baby was tight. Actually had to get flat blade under the "clip" to release. I also giggled motor wiring "clip" too before trying to fire machine. Who knows?

  • Thanks! Tonight I'll check voltage and post what I find. I'll even keep my hands off the testing leads. My hair is curly enough. :-)

  • Checked both hi-limit t-stats and they showed no resistance so I'm at a loss for why the igniter is not turning on (dryer is on an outside wall and the ducting is most certainly clear. Thermal fuse shows no resistance as does flame switch. Igniter showing 5 on 10x scale. Cycling t-stat shows like igniter on the two sides and no resistance on the top and bottom (just like the new one I purchased when I thought that was the problem). I always unplug wires when testing as per the vid on Youtube

  • @munkdavid Try unplugging the leads to the ignitor and check for 120 volts from the leads when the dryer should be heating. You will need to reattach everything, remove the drum and ether jump the door switch or reattach the closed door panel. It sounds like the timer may not be supplying power to the heating circuit. You may also have a partially loose contact to the motor to the neutral side. So make sure that it is fully attached. Email me through the site and I will give you my phone #

  • Hey dude, thanks for getting back to me. I did the Dryer troublrshooting app at Appliance Assisant .com and the only thing it could be is the hi-limit thermostat because the other things all ck. as they are supposed to. If you get this and can give me a heads up on how to test it that would be great. Otherwise I'm going to ck. for info on how I test for this. If I wasn't a stupid carpenter I could figure it out with a few intelligent deductions via the wiring dia.

  • @munkdavid The hi-limit thermostat should be closed and test positive for continuity when the dryer is cool. Different dryers use thermostats with different sensitivity levels but most will open around 200º-250º the hi-limit may be working properly and opening to protect the dryer from over heating because of a clogged duct in the home or within the dryer. Try to pull the ducting off the back of the dryer and see if you are having the same problem. If so look for lint clogs inside the dryer.

  • @munkdavid You will also need to unplug and remove the two wires connected to the hi-limit thermostat before checking it or you may get a false positive through a side circuit. Check out the how to use a voltmeter video, or circuit troubles videos for more clear information on testing and circuits. Hope that helps out some! Good luck.

  • Dude, video rocks. I promise to donate if you can help me. Towards the end you rushed a bit. I'm confused how the timer switch should test. I have door off so i'm going from the red on my disconnected switch to the blue on the door sensor, thing. :-)

  • @munkdavid Thanks! Sounds like you have it right. If you press and hold the start button you should get a reading for continuity on your meter. If you are not getting a reading it just means that one of the components is open (broken) but it does not tell you which one. I just published a dryer troubleshooting app at ApplianceAssistant Com Try that out to narrow down your options. Email me through the site with your model number and symptoms and I will do my best to help out. Thanks again!

  • everything seems fine but the falme wont open...

    whats wrong?

    the gas is open everything heats fine but no flame

  • @JessTorrRawr121 If you can see the igniter glowing but the flame does not ignite you probably need to replace the two black coils mounted to the top of the burner valve...Try using the new "dryer troubleshooter" app that I just published on ApplianceAssistant Com It should take you right to the part you need, and videos on how to replace them.

  • Thanks for shareing your knowledge to helping others really appreciate your help again thankyou Pete

  • What is the website to order the parts again? Should I also order a heating element and thermostat? Is the heating element hard to change? But then again if the thermalfuse is not working that should be easy to change. We did not see any blockage however to cause it to overheat but it def is not working and I hope thats all it is because I dont think we could take the drum out and all that other stuff. What do you think

  • @daylightchat Sorry for the delay in responding. I have a few parts ordering links from my main website ApplianceAssistant . Com

    If you tested the thermal fuse with the wires disconnected and found no resistance, or activity on your meter then the fuse should be all you need to change. there is no reason to replace the other parts you mentioned until they fail. you can test the heater in the same way as the fuse. Thank you for your comments! Wonderful to hear of your success!

  • Thanks so much. I did get my dryer up and going and it works just fine. A good friend of mine had her Whirlpool dryer stop heating and asked if I could get hers running..LOL, IF you could see us 2 old gals trying to get this one going. We did most the troubleshooting I did on mine, and her thermalfuse (long white fuse on the back attached with 2 wires) we did take off and buy a meter like you have in video and it does not read any activity. If I order that, should it work>

  • @daylightchat Yes replacing that fuse should get it up and running again.

  • Love the video! Best one I've seen, and I have been looking at these for at least 2 weeks!

  • @Iamjamjac Thank You! 

  • Awesome video, I have the same problem with Michael62895. dryer works fine at first, maintaining the temp it closes. then second heat igniter glows, then off - but no flames - I SMELL GAS ! will replacing the solenoid fix my problem ? thanks

  • @nauulolna Thank you! Normally the symptoms that you described could be caused by a gas line that is full of air the first time the dryer is turned on. The fact that you are smelling gas should mean that the coils are working and the valve is being opened. The only mechanical problem I can think of is the flame switch becoming overly sensitive, opening prematurely, and transferring electricity from the igniter to the coils too soon. Extremely rare. If the igniter glows it works.

  • Thank you so much! Saved me a ton of money. Very well explained video. Made me go out and buy a Volt Meter. Wow! How have I gone all these years without one, great little tool. Thanks again. It's nice to save a little money in these hard economic times.

  • @losneighbor Thanks for the comment! It helps me to keep going when I hear things like this! I’m working on a dryer troubleshooting app as well as posting some new videos on my website ApplianceAssistant Com. It can get very frustrating sometimes learning new things, this kind of encouragement is much appreciated. Thanks for watching and commenting!

  • Great! Good point! A lot of people are making good money doing that kind of thing these days. If it's has a top lint trap, is under ten years and looks half way decent you can almost always make money.

  • Thanks...Was ready to go buy a new dryer. My issue was a 19.95 thermal fuse and a good cleaning. Makes me wonder how many dryers awaiting recycling roadside just need minor repairs. Maybe I'll shop those next time. Nice easy to follow video. Thanks again. Mike

  • thnx for posting. i watched a half dozen videos and yours was the one that gotrdun! It was the solenoids. my wife is happy and i look like a handyman stud. thnx for the help.

  • @bandcministry That's what it's all about! Thanks for the comment! 

  • Great vid FIXED my dryer after watching this.

    DO NOT UNDER estimate quick fixes such as clogged vent. That was my problem.

    Thanks for saying "fixing is like dective work" made me listen to rest of video

  • @EVANHUNT Thanks for the comment! It's nice to hear what is helpful, so I can make improvements on future productions!

  • Thank you very much! I did without a dryer for 2 days. Now I have to cancel the repair guy. Excellent video!

  • I have the same Whirlpool dryer like the one used in the video. the igniter does lite the gas producing a flame for the first time, but after several minutest it won't relight, ONLY a orange glow and then back off. DO I NEED TO REPLACE THE TWO BLACK COILS?

  • @Michael62895 Yes. Replacing the coils should solve your problem. Please consider purchasing them through the links on my web site to help support these videos. ApplianceAssistant Com The other dryer repair video that I have shows more clearly how to access the burner and replace the coils. Thanks for watching!

  • Very Very Good Video.

    You packed a lot of info into a short video.

  • @John49080 Thanks!

  • Thank you for the comment! I'm glad it helped. If you get stuck I have a lot more detailed information about dryer repair and specific parts on my web site. ApplianceAssistant com Good luck!

  • I have a Maytag Dg313 and the problem I have is the burner glows and the gas valve opens but the flame only stays lite for about 5-10 seconds and then shuts off. I replaced the two coils and the High Temp switch. Any help would surely be appreciated. Thanks for the great video.

  • @TheGhostPlanet If the dryer is disconnected from the home's ducting and you are still experiencing the flame kicking off after 5-10 seconds look at the internal dryer ducting. The in door lint catchers are more likely to build up lint inside the lint trap receiver and block air flow. This will cause the flame to over heat the hi-limit thermostat. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me through ApplianceAssistant Com and we will figure it out.

  • This is very informative. I could diagnose my dryer. Now I am proceeding to repair it.

    Thank you.

  • After watching this video I know I have so much more to learn about electricity. Thank you very much for posting this, it's the best video I've seen on the topic by far.

  • @mondays89 Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. This project isn't paying very well so far, so its a big encouragement to hear that you found it helpful. There is a lot of other electrical and mechanical fundamental information and help at my web site. A link is in the description to this movie. That foundational stuff is very important, and when it is clear and well understood repair work becomes fairly simple. Thanks again!

  • Thanks for the video, Great help with my repair. Keep it up.

  • I have a 9 year old speed queen and the drum turns i have a glow or orange then it goes out. No flame. I tried to first check the gas line as stated but dont see any bubbles, so is there a video on how to replace that valve thing. Do i just turn the gas off to dryer and unplug dryer then remove valve? Thanks for any help, as you can tell, I have no clue as to what I am doing but cannot afford repair man. Could you also tell me what kind of meter I should buy incase it still does not work

  • @daylightchat

    Did you ever get that dryer up and running Daylight?

  • Great video Nice Screen Cast...

  • Please keep making your videos, they are the best on your tube.

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