Added: 3 years ago
From: kdfisherga
Views: 163,194
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  • Awesome video!! It would have taken forever to figure out how much to shave and cut under the board with a trial and adjust approach. Now I know exactly how much to cut and where! Thanks!

  • Thank you for your video.

    I am trying to replace an area that will remove as many as 6 boards side by side. Would I glue all the replace boards, or nail them down and then glue just the last piece?

  • Try nailing in as many as you can then the last piece will need to be glued.

  • i have damage to my floor in the kitchen extending a little into the living room, several floating hardwood boards were removed, so there is a big gap in the kitchen area how much would it cost to get them professionally replaced? I have left over boards.

  • Chances are more may have to be removed. Has the area been covered or protected? It doesn't take much to chip the edges while walking over. Yours is a tough question as most guys "remove and replace" not just replace. I've heard some numbers in the $100 per board range but some may just charge a minimum that could start as low as $100 and go up from there.

  • @sexikitty1001 i instal hardwood and we charge 15$ a board and there a minimum of at least 100$

  • cut with skill saw trim new board apply glue and remember to put a weight on it if ur not nailing it in cuz it will jump back up

  • Thanks for the response. I was wondering how close to the nail line the saw was trying to get and with a 3/4" offset, its not very close. I would think a couple of spade bit holes would be easier to create the center void, instead of a chisel. Oak is hard!

    Also, to get out the remainder 3/4" strip with a nail, could just be split out with a chisel or cut off with a dremel when found.

  • I don't see how they set the width of the cut. It is on the board seams?

  • @cdouglas1942

    Most guys make cuts about 3/4" away from the board seams.

  • I have a question if you don't mind answering, lol. I had hardwood floors installed about a year ago but they did a poor job laying it. There is a small gap going through my living room, hardly noticable but there none the less, and a couple other small gaps where the wood has separated. I've had two contractors give me estimates for repairs. One said he had to rip everything up and start over for 2500. Another said he could repair it for 200. I'm confused. Is something like that repairable?

  • Oh, by the way the floor was layed down over concrete with glue. Thank you for any advice you can give me.

  • It depends if the gaps are hardly noticeable , you might get away with wood filler, and touch it up with a marker that match the color of your wood floors. 2500 sounds like too much and no need to start all over again if like you said, you hardly notice the gaps. 200 sounds reasonable with a plank replacement.

  • @brtndsm glue a thin slice of timber veneer (like timber veneer edging available from most kitchen suppliers) in there. If you use a slow 2 parts expoxy glue (probably not the the 5 minute set stuff - too quick) you can then sand the top level with the rest of the floor and coat with paint

  • I agree the mutlimaster or equivalent works better on replacing a single board, and when making new end joint cuts into the floor.

  • Whats better to lift and use the floor from one room that is missing half of the hardwood and patch up the rest of my place that also has big patches and then lay new in that bedroom or do I put new in with the old everywhere including that room and sand it down?

    Hope that makes sense and is not too confusing.

  • Yes, it does sound confusing.

    Now I get it. Best to take from an existing room that is not seen or used as often. Or if you have good sized closets, unusual with older homes) grab it from there.

  • aha! retrofitting by removing bottom portion of groove. that helps me a LOT. Now, does anyone know where I can get ahold of a small amount of replacement hardwood? I only need 5 or 6 boards, but I'm only finding huge boxes. and it doesn't help that i'm trying to find 1 1/2 birch strips...

  • 1 1/2 inch? Sounds like you need an unfinished product as I can't think of any that come prefinished. Try some hardwood floor refinishers particularly ones that do restoration projects. They typically hoard stuff like this for repairs.

    If that fails, removing exiting from unseen areas like a closet works.

  • Awesome!

  • Easier to use gunpowder and much quicker

  • is it okay to do hardwood flooring on top of parkay wood?

    should an underlay material be used?

    what do you do if the floor if its popping up and not level?

  • Repairing a hardwood floor is not for the faint of heart, but it's really worth it if you use the right tools and follow this guide. Worked out fine for me!

  • We had to do this a few days ago. It sucked, but was worth in in the end.

  • Glad to help:)

  • Hey, we bought a house built in 67' with hardwoord floors, Will the floors have tongue and groove in the planks?

  • More than likely yes if they're a standard 2 1/4" width. Wider planks may not be end matched (tongue and groove).

  • Thanx for the info.I have do this in a couple of weeks.

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