@Zeamus634 they simply went to regular eyelet connections, I use a numax leisure battery which has the great feature of normal terminal lugs and 8mm bolt fixings built onto the battery. But you can usually just use the eyelet connection on the regular terminal clamping bolts on normal batteries
@Zeamus634 erm, maybe move the socket slightly further in towards the gearbox, it's maybe slightly to tight against the door, also I think I would have made the jump leads 1-2m longer. but apart from that it's a great mod that I use constantly. Also the red boot thing lasted about 1 year before getting ripped off.
I haven't used Anderson connectors for about 18 years and thought they didn't need a male/female... thanks for confirming that. I thought I may have been imagining things! Great tutorial, my only suggestions would be to "tin" the cable first, and also, when I was taught soldering (Military Spec), to never quench any solder connection (as you suggested). Always allow it to cool down by itself (as you did) to prevent crystalysation of the joint. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
@desparky hi thanks for the comment, I must admit I'm no expert, I purely made the video as no one else had covered it. But what your saying makes perfect sense. I did try and tin the wires, but my girly iron couldn't transfer enough heat and the blow lap just made a mess :-)
very good mate,...dunno why you bother with the shrink wrap..it tends to trap moisture in there,...you can get thicker solder sticks to do the job...I make those plugs up for HGV tail lift connectors on trailers ie: tescos lorries...6 stars..
Cheers, I prefer to heat shrink everything in my Defender as it all sits in muddy water a lot. Not had a problem with heat shrink trapping water myself. But I bow to your greater experience.
@ruuman We spend a fair bit of time tracing rotten connections hidden by heat shrink and that dreaded black tape....shrink wrap better inside the vheicle but at the end of the day it looks tidier,......
Cheers Harry, it's something I've been meaning to do for ages.
In the old days I would have just stuffed the crimps in a vice and hammered them shut. But I spent some reading up on it hence the video as no one else had covered it.
This is fantastic, exactly what I was looking for! I know have a weekend project for my 90!
753wow 1 month ago
Can you show how you have connected the battery terminals to the battery clamps please?
Zeamus634 5 months ago
@Zeamus634 they simply went to regular eyelet connections, I use a numax leisure battery which has the great feature of normal terminal lugs and 8mm bolt fixings built onto the battery. But you can usually just use the eyelet connection on the regular terminal clamping bolts on normal batteries
ruuman 5 months ago
@ruuman Thanks for the quick reply, If you did it again, Is there anything you would do differently?
Zeamus634 5 months ago
@Zeamus634 erm, maybe move the socket slightly further in towards the gearbox, it's maybe slightly to tight against the door, also I think I would have made the jump leads 1-2m longer. but apart from that it's a great mod that I use constantly. Also the red boot thing lasted about 1 year before getting ripped off.
ruuman 5 months ago
I haven't used Anderson connectors for about 18 years and thought they didn't need a male/female... thanks for confirming that. I thought I may have been imagining things! Great tutorial, my only suggestions would be to "tin" the cable first, and also, when I was taught soldering (Military Spec), to never quench any solder connection (as you suggested). Always allow it to cool down by itself (as you did) to prevent crystalysation of the joint. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
desparky 6 months ago
@desparky hi thanks for the comment, I must admit I'm no expert, I purely made the video as no one else had covered it. But what your saying makes perfect sense. I did try and tin the wires, but my girly iron couldn't transfer enough heat and the blow lap just made a mess :-)
ruuman 6 months ago
Thanks for the tutorial, was wondering how it all fit together. Now I know!
taquito971 8 months ago
Good tutorial, very helpful, thanks
winaje 1 year ago
Cool. I extened the battery conectors on my Landy and the battery now lives in a old tool box behind the passenger seat.
syncmaster710n14 1 year ago
very good mate,...dunno why you bother with the shrink wrap..it tends to trap moisture in there,...you can get thicker solder sticks to do the job...I make those plugs up for HGV tail lift connectors on trailers ie: tescos lorries...6 stars..
trailerfitter 2 years ago
Cheers, I prefer to heat shrink everything in my Defender as it all sits in muddy water a lot. Not had a problem with heat shrink trapping water myself. But I bow to your greater experience.
Thanks for your comment
ruuman 2 years ago
@ruuman We spend a fair bit of time tracing rotten connections hidden by heat shrink and that dreaded black tape....shrink wrap better inside the vheicle but at the end of the day it looks tidier,......
trailerfitter 2 years ago
lookin good mate. its always the little things that take time but make a truck isant it?
well done. H
rangiemadharry 2 years ago
Cheers Harry, it's something I've been meaning to do for ages.
In the old days I would have just stuffed the crimps in a vice and hammered them shut. But I spent some reading up on it hence the video as no one else had covered it.
ruuman 2 years ago
Very nice, Have you tried it yet?
Zeamus634 2 years ago
Cheers, no not yet, probably get some use this weekend trying to get my mate old golf started.
ruuman 2 years ago
cool good job
PPK5 2 years ago