Added: 3 years ago
From: expertvillage
Views: 17,075
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  • I wish this idiot would quit trying to tell people what to do to their HVAC system. I thought it was bad enough that he was saying "use a pressure washer on your HVAC unit's coils" now he's saying to do this crap.

    If people follow this guy's directions, they're going to destroy their HVAC unit.

  • There's not such of thing as balancing a house or any residential place. Air balancing only works on commercial buildings, I have been in the business for over 8 yea

  • There's not such of thing as balancing a house or any r

  • First of all, it is best to place a damper atleast 6" away from the diffuser to eliminate any airflow restriction noise. Never try to balance at the diffuser unless you have to and never completely close it. The evaporator needs to have atleast 400 cfm of airflow to pass across it per every ton of cooling.

  • To whoever says air balancing don't work... You're all very wrong. If there is 600 cfm in a room that needs 200 and 200 in a room that needs 600, how could balancing not be effective? Think about it. I have been balancing for 8 years.

  • i dont think you should close any registers all the way that could cuase the air handler not to move enough cfm across your coil and in crease your static pressure which will brake your blower motor and also cause stratificacion all aruond the house.

  • @elpeque1000 installing volume dampers in the duct work well before an outlet can solve most of that problem.

  • Obviously Tim has not spent much time in the hvac industry. True hot air rises and cooler air falls but X-diameter duct can supply X-cfm of air. Closing down these registers will not increase air flow of those registers. Open all registers and doors above the basement level and set your fan to "on". There are many factors that can contribute to uneven temperatures throughout your home. Call a reputable hvac company in your area and have them assess your equipment and particular situation.

  • Real simple tip to "balance" airflow: RUN THE FAN AT ALL TIMES (fan ON at thermostat)

  • Umm...NO. This is ridiculous.

  • if nothing else you can call a company to do a hoodflow check and read the C.F.M coming from each duct tied into that system and go from there either being adjusted by the registers or installing dampners in your ducting to cut the airflow back

  • component damage not so much the registers can be used to cut back some of the air so you aren't getting so much never shut it off completely always allow a little airflow through the excess air will be distibuted among the other ducts tied in with the system if ya close off to many registers/diverters you can create a backdraft/vaccuum in the ducting and lose airflow to the rest of the rooms which means you just became counter productive

  • DO NOT USE registers to control your airflow. If you have 10% duct leakage, and you close multiple registers, your leakage will increase to upwards of 20% leakage, and increasing the pressure w/in the duct system will decrease air flow across the coils, throwing off your efficiency, many PROFESSIONALS here agree, this guy is all show no know.

  • @d1incharge good luck getting into the sheetrock ceilings in a completed residential job to get the volume dampers. Unless you had cable operated dampers.

  • If you have no access to certain duct, you can always try to change the btu load of the room vs. trying to remove or add more btu. If A/C guys would all actually seal duct systems it wouldnt be as much of a a problem would it? You pay money for EER, than play with registers which may help your balane, but will lower your EER. Of course, the odds an A/C guy would get the duct system designed for peak EER are slim to none so its hard to even know isn't it.

  • this guy is a penis

  • You should never close the registers or diffusers. That can do damage to components. And higher bill

  • 2nd comment: if no one changed filters, nothing would pass through the filthy filter to get anything beyond it, dirty.

  • Hi we live in an older apartment and I dont know why but we hardly get any air flow in our living room dining room or kitchen and no air flow in the bedroom closet. we tried using two kinds of filters and none of them work. I would like if you could email me what is happening with our air flow and the furnace is a pretty new Trane system

  • The evaporator coil, and/or blower wheel is dirty, and its restricting air flow, this happens with every apartment, noone cares about keeping stuff clean, and just because you change filters, doesnt mean the people before you did..and most maintenance dont bother changing them. dirty filters or no filters at all cause the wheel and coil to get filthy and stop airflow. You know how ur dryer collects lint, and u never clean off the collector, ur clothes take longer to dry----same concept.

  • or you might just and MAKE SURE that the vents are open, and clear.

  • Warm air does not rise. Air has mass. Air has weight. It cannot defy the law of gravity. Cooler air is more dense, therefore it is heavier than the same volume of warm air. Cool air displaces warm air at lower heights in a room. The warm air is 'pushed' upward toward the ceiling.

    This phenomena is called stratification. Leave it to a hack like expertvillage to completely mislead the video-viewing community. This video is wrong on more levels than I care to count.

  • Restricting air flow can cause excesive temperature rise resulting in limit switch cycling as well as metal fatigue to componets like elements and heat exchangers. Can also cause excesive wear on refrigeration systems, even possible ice building on evaporator coils in cooling mode. Highest efficiency is reached with greatest air flow. Shutting registers will in mosts cases waist energy. Temperature rise test is recomened after all air side adjustments.

    CFM=HS/1.08(T2-T1) .HS=Btu or 3.413x Watts

  • What if the house was professionally balanced u should never touch difussers

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