Added: 3 years ago
From: redbarnboats
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  • Really good tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

  • Uuuuu

  • thanks so much....just what i was looking for

  • Hi I was wondering if you guys know any technique to let the resin mass in proceso to refinish the boat while draining the resin, it would have somehow to mix in some powdered product?

  • @marcelopria Not quite understanding what you are asking in the first part of your question. You can add other things to "already mixed epoxy", but it can not be more than 25-30% by volume of the total mixture. Things like sand, wood flour, pigment pastes, and graphite. Mixed epoxy flows, but more like honey than water.

  • My wife and I are gonna do this as a project together.  Our question is we would like to leave it natural (no paint). Well we would like it stained to a minwax color early american. At which point in the process would we stain the wood?

  • @fivetreehuggers After you have cut out the panels, and finished the edges. Becareful not to mark up the panels with too many pencil lines. Erase before staining. Use a water based stain, as they (I'm told) work best with epoxy.

  • My wife and I are gonna do this as a project together. Our question is we would like to leave it natural (no paint). Well we would like it stained to a minwax color early american. At which point in the process would we stain the wood?

  • you look like santaclaus

  • I am considering building some superstructure (flybridge) using masonite for outward tight curves then coating with epoxy & glass. Have you had any experience with Masonite and epoxy?

  • No, and I don't think I would use Masonite in a marine enviroment, and I don't think the Masonite would be able to handle any type of curve without snapping in half.

    Better to use some 4mm marine grade plywood, and slowly (over time) wrap it around your form.

  • That is a lot of work my man ever tried filleting and tapeing in the same operation? I tried it your way once and never again, the all in one operation results in a better bond and everything cures together as one pice joint. Please dont think i am saying your way dont work we all have our preferances and I see youe cradt looks great. happy boating!!

  • I've done it both ways, and you are right; it is faster to do it in one operation.  But it's hard not to put depressions in the fillet material as you are laying down the glass. If I was doing it for my own boat, I wouldn't care, but all my prototypes are for resale, so I have to make them as good as possible.

    By using System Three epoxy, I have up to72 hours, to do the next step, and still have a chemical bond; and not have to sand the area before the next layer goes down.

  • I've seen fiberglass and resin used in fresh water tanks (bit of a smell and taste for a few months) and epoxy used in fuel tanks.

    Go get one of the 5 gal "glass" water bottles. Thats what I use for making beer, and it's easier (smoother surface) to keep clean.

  • Great video.

    Do you know if fiberglass (or epoxy) is an acceptable material to use for making a custom storage tank for alcohol? I would like to build a 5-gallon fermenter for making beer.

  • System Three's SilverTip epoxy can cure in the upper 30's. It's probably in the 40's if I'm wearing that coat.  It was cured the next day. Fast enough for me and home builders, and still have good results..

  • This is very helpful, thank you.

    Looks like you're working in cold weather. I didn't think you could wet out glass in cold weather.

  • thank you for learning us !

  • Interesting as well as informative.

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