Climbing Tools: The Prussik Knot

[JRNY1605]

Is that Duncan for last of the mohicans?

[wolfmaan]

Very Nice work!. This video may save some climbers life some day!

[ztslovebird]

Isn't there a way to tie a Prusik knot without making the loop?

[KnifeHQ]

Great Video! Very enlightening and easy to follow. Keep it up!

[monkey505boy]

This video is okay, but doesn't anyone on YouTube practice before turning on the camera? He can't remember how to tie a figure 8, and he's making a video? And this video is still above average.

[mikebarter387]

@monkey505boy it is youtube and you do get what you pay for.

[wolfmaan]

@monkey505boy by all means, please make us a video that it suited to your standards!

[TheCarablanco]

Very useful knot. I can already envision using short lengths of paracord and small karbiner's for hanging a tarp as a tent. Quick release, easily adjustable, and can actually use a single bough instead of two tree trunks. Even though this is a few years old, thank you!!

[FestivalJester]

Thanks for the great vid... I agree with sisyphus3. Curious however, how one would go about using a prussik not to ascend, but rather descend. Saw it on a tv a show and was wondering how that works... any chance you could make a vid on using prussiks in life-saving situations?

[mikebarter387]

@FestivalJester I'm curious why you would descend and not add a rap device and lower that way. Why not try it yourself let me know how it goes and send me a link to the video.

[RaisinHellCrew]

@FestivalJester To ascend you need two. One long and one short. Hook your chest loop to the short and hang. Move the longer prusik knot up. Pull on it to make it catch. put one foot in and stand up in it holding yourself vertical against the rope. Slide your chest knot up and hang. repeating this process over and over is how you climb rope with rope. You would only use this as a safety for descending.

[hazmat1000]

Great video!! What knot would you use to anchor the climbing line to say a tree? Going to be setting all my stands up with a climbing line this year.

[mikebarter387]

@hazmat1000 love to help but the cercumstances would dictate the answer. suggest using fear and common sense as a guideline.

[217cmiller]

i use this for my safety system in my tree stand, works great

[enjoythewildUSA]

Such a great knot. thanks

[MobFrenziedHomicide]

Haha...epic recover... Nice vid

[daxroman]

Thanks for the video.

If you're going up or down a tree with spikes and have a rope tied from above, if you lose both spikes this knot saves you from a fall?

[johntkucz]

that's REALLY AWESOME. cheers mate. Prusik + fig-8 como. Will practice that one. Why fig-8 instead of overhand for stopper knot? Thanks for sharing this. Nifty!

[noitartsulli]

@johntkucz It's slightly easier to untie after bearing a load.

[johntkucz]

@noitartsulli Ah...brilliant...I did a blog post on knots and embedded this vid on my site. Would you say...that the fig-8 then doesn't "lock" as easily as overhand (knot jargon is interesting). cheers.

[Russpain]

Good demo. Just one note,use a smaller sectionial rope for your prusik than the climb rope.

[RickM1953]

Added note ... I would tie a Prusik with a bit and then put the carabiner through the bit.

[RickM1953]

Great presentation...

[bartholomaus72]

@guentherzwoelf

the extra "s" is for "sexy", collegeboy!

[ThePopeAndy]

Awesome video thanks so much

[HotelPlazaful]

More helpful that expert village..

[dinnerandashow]

tags: sexy hot paris hilton?

[mikebarter387]

@dinnerandashow what are you saying Paris is none of these things.

[dinnerandashow]

@mikebarter387

Why not add "ipod" , "lose weight"and "make quick money"?

[Igoman1984]

I want to climb solo, so I would get the rope around a tree or something and then descend, holding two ropes in my hand (each half of the rope). Is there any way to combine the prusik safety knot with using two ropes with figure 8, so that I can retrive the rope after I descended, but still be safe if I let go of the ropes?

So is there a way to climb solo and still be safe or not?

[monstersinc123]

erm, i was just wondering mate whats the whole point of a 6 loop prussick knot???? also what sort of things would you want to attach to the karabiner??? GREAT VID =)

[mikebarter387]

@monstersinc123 There is no point to a six loop prussik. You could attach the focul point of your harness and hang off the rope, attach another prusik and stick your foot on it. couple hours practice and who knows you may be able toascend a rope. The stuff you attach can be endless, since you have to ask no matter what I say it would most likely be pointless to you.

[Everestlad]

@mikebarter387 Very good point I tried to put him right, if he has to ask that simple question about where to attach the knot, he should not be near the ropes yet.

[Everestlad]

@monstersinc123 pretty much the only time you need this knot is if you have fallen over an over hang with no footholds. You need 2 prussics, one on your harness, and one for your foot in a loop to push you up. If tied properly they never fail and if your in really deep shit you can even use your boot laces. Remember one on your harness karabiner and one for your foot to push up, its a must have life saver. Joe Simpson will tell you that from his mishaps on Siula Grande in Peru. Safe climbing!

[heyleegoodcat]

@monstersinc123 A six loop prusik adds more friction to the rope as opposed to a 4 loop prusik, some things you may want to attach to the carabiner, the bullhorn of your harness, maybe a chest harness,foot stirrups for lifting yourself up the rope (using leg power), lunch.

.

[heyleegoodcat]

It's also a good one for locking off your rope when you want to hang around, say your on a rappel and you want to stop for some reason, say photo's or getting past a knot, what ever. throw this bad boy on and your pretty locked off, just have another failsafe incase.

[zman117]

That guy is so mountanes

[vanhustler]

very simple & straight forward, thanks!

[guntherzwoelf]

It's spelled Prusik with a single s ...

[Netsubou]

Ahh, this makes more sense seeing it tied to another rope. I'm taking a basic repelling class, but all we've done is tie the prussik without another rope to anchor it to. And I don't remember my teacher explaining what it could be used for. Thank you for this video :)

[akalestos1983]

you look like the guy from dumb and dumber lolololol

seriously ,great presentation,thank you

[JALB5555]

You are super easy to understand and cute when the knot falls down. Nice recovery and cool hat.

[captironman]

great vid. easily the best and easiest way to learn the knot.

[Anchanthai]

Beautiful!

You'd be surprised at how close these knots are to our demolition knots using detonation cord.

[Castyo]

imho machard is better

[desduddy]

Thanks for that. A really clear tutorial that was so easy to follow. Thanks for sharing your knowledge buddy.

[itchylipd]

cool. very clear. appreciated the wet tip. thanks mike.

[NocheeseSherlock]

that was easier than i thought

[johnerrrrrr]

hahah...... SCUSME!!!!!!!!!!

[audhen1]

prusik.

Karl Prusik....

[cellfloam]

I think you are supposed to use a smaller rope for the actually Prussik, than the one that it is tied around? I think it could use a little clarification.

[tdawg611]

@cellfloam

The rope and the cord doesn't have to be different sizes. However, the larger the difference between the rope and the cord the better the Prusik will hold. A typical Prusik should be rapped at least 3 times. If the rope and the cord are differing sizes 2 raps are usually enough to hold. However, if the rope and cord are the same diameter, then at least 4 raps should be used.

[AndrewChainey]

Really enjoyed. Easy to follow. Many thanks

[whoreallygivesacrap]

I noticed alot of these tutorials don't mention that a frozen rope may not work with a prusic knot because it is a friction based hold.

[machbaby]

Thanks...well done.

[AntiHero12109]

expert village should hire you so then they could finally start showing the RIGHT way to do things, great video, thanks.

[bigbuckrub]

Good video!

[DonLouiVer]

we are going rapelling this weekend.. our instructor has demonstrated it clearly, but i keep forgetting...thanks for youtube.. i can watch it over and over again..

[rocksteadyjones]

Nice clear info. Thanks

[onlypiper]

ok lol thank you very much for the information, i'm a beginner climber so all the info i can get is useful

[onlypiper]

how much weight will this knot hold befor it fails?

[mikebarter387]

@onlypiper More then we can apply as climbers which is all that really matters. The exact amount will depend on size of cord, rope, gravity of planet you live on.

[flyer203]

Hehe!

[streetsnaps]

@onlypiper  6mm on 10mm = ca 700 kg

[streetsnaps]

@onlypiper ca700kg (6mm cord and 10mm rope)

[meatabuse]

Thank you for the upload. It is most informative.

[flyer203]

So this is to secure that you won't fall as you descent?I mean if you attach the carabiner to your safety belt it will hold you.Won't it?

[sotik]

@flyer203 Many hunters use this when hanging tree stands because it will hold your body weight. What it comes down to, is that if the rope is strong enough to hold your weight, the knot will bite into the other rope, the more you pull the more it bites. Thus meaning you don't fall. It can be used for either descending or ascending.

[mikebarter387]

@flyer203 It is a improvised clamp. Descend, ascend, rescue your only limited by your imagination.

[PjQbik]

Thank you Very good tut for me .I like it

[thargor2k]

really clear video, nicely done!

[hofnerman1]

Good info to know. Thanks for posting.

[tutalus]

isnt this just like a larks head with 2 extra loops?

[sisyphus3]

This is the clearest presentation of the prussic that I have ever scene. Tkank you.

[LordInksworth]

That is the worst spelling of seen that I have ever seen. Thank you.

[theninja001]

@LordInksworth lol

[UNEFA07]

Hey, que buen video, una pregunta, ¿tú por casualidad no tienes un video de cómo hacer un nudo de ocho con doble gaza?

[vallonia2000]

Mike that was shown really clearly , Well done a great video.

[m4rab]

Thanks. Very usefull. I can now tie the Prussik.

[RULER7171]

I want to use this knot as a safety line while climbing to a tree stand during hunting season.I am using a piece of rope that is about 6ft in length. What type of knot do I need to use to connect the two ends of my rope together so that I can connect my carabiner and use the prusik to climb?

[mikebarter387]

Check out" backing up your rappel" I think Tom uses the knot your looking for. Realy you just want to close the loop and a simple overhand wil do that. Put a second overhand behind the first if you be a big chicken. The most secure closing of a loop may be the double fisherman,s knot.

The Mike

[campusmang]

nice back up for rappellin

i'm all about the firemans rap for backup

have someone at the bottom pull on the rope,

rapper cant go anywhere.

rapelling is for getting down AFTER ROCK CLIMBING! hehe

[BrokenAeroVT]

Great demo. Needed to learn the Prussik for my hammock. Thanks!

[CravingGod]

That's the exact reason I was looking at this. I am bringing the rope around the limb of a tree and trying to tie the equivolent of a prussik using the working end of the rope. It seems to work ok.

[BrokenAeroVT]

He did a a really good job explaining it--It became second nature to me very quickly. I could probably tie on in the dark thanks to this climber.

[Lvduggo69]

Mikebarter 387. U dick !!

[mikebarter387]

and your point is?

[miotchthebiotch]

Good video, gonna practice this at the wall next time I'm there.

Quick question though. Can this be done effectively with a sling? Or is a short length of rope what you need?

[snowyywwinters]

would you say this is a kinda safe way of self belaying? (i know there is no real safe way of self belaying), ive also looked at the petzl shunt. thanks

[gibsongod123]

probably in an emergency, but I wouldnt rely on it. Go with the shunt, and have the knot in mind as a backup.

[snowyywwinters]

thanks mate, i bought a shunt a few days ago, and love it, a very safe way of doing it. use a knot in the rope with over hanging sections. but apart from that its bomb proff

[eldiagrama]

not very visible but still good. Thanks

[onojmai]

yes- a prussik is bidirectional.

you can also use two prussiks, one setup with a foot loop, on a static rope as ascenders (though its not easy or that fun). let a pro show ya how.

[ouzo1power]

How do you control the DIRECTION of the movement ? Thanks Nicos

[mikebarter387]

Not sure what you mean. The knot when loose will move in any direction you push it. However take a fall and the prussik if it is attached to your harness it will bite on the rope. So simple a skier could do it.

[gunnerman22]

haha 47: "exscuse me" youd be fun to rappel with

[eatgluedrnkpaint]

alright you knot heads, haha get it?

i need the best method to tie, a 55 gallon drum, to a skid. tightest knot possible, so they dont detach from one another. reply to this with a video, or just a knot name. thanks in advance. the drum will be laid over and its side, with the skid sitting on top.

[mikebarter387]

Truckers hitch

[phototaker84]

What millimeter rope do you suggest using?

[mikebarter387]

7mm is the norm but 6 mm will work

[hiimturkey2232]

helpful video. i watched the prussik tutorial from expertvillage and it made no sense at all. good job!

[xialong123]

@hiimturkey2232 expertvillage sucks. i wish youtube would delete their channel. every time i try to search a how to on youtube all i get is a billion 1 minute long non sence videos from them and its getting really anoying.

[maltijien]

Great tutorial.

Please make more!

Question - Can I do more wraps for security and more grip perhaps?

Thanks

[mikebarter387]

You could but there woul not be any point. In fact after 3 loops your throwing a saddle on a dead horse.

[SidneyTurner]

Good video! thanks for repeating the knot tieing aswell, get annoyed if I have to keep 'rewinding' the vid.

Thanks for uploading!

[kllvll]

is it safe i mean so risky

[mikebarter387]

If you die using this knot I will pay for 10% of your funeral. Talk about confident!

[yorch1981]

the prusik hitch it's 100% reliable, i like using it instead of the metal rope grab, you just have to keep in mind the quality of the rope you are using and the thickness,

[xm4rco5x]

very good ..thanks

[bingbum7]

quality, very clear, cheers

[SmittyB05]

Much better than that village idiot guy that ties knots... Good stuff bro

[hajenchri]

if one is traveling over crevasse territory, is it good to attach the backpack to the rope using a prussik so that it can be released in the case of a crevasse fall? Can the same be done with skis so that they can be released when in a crevasse?

[mikebarter387]

Didn't you just answer your own question. WTF would you do to make the transition from inside a freezing crevasse to warm freindly sunlight. Skis I don't know can it?

[1ofmanyamericans]

There is a scene from "Seven Years in Tibet" where they use this knot to climb back up the rope. Check it out. It's OnDemand if you have Comcast.

[mikebarter387]

I need to run out and get a TV.

[erlejomo]

what's the max amount of loops you can put around the rope befor the knot stops griping

[mikebarter387]

Don't know never used more then three wraps.

[jimbob123412]

the more loops the more friction

but dont use more that three like you said

[mikebarter387]

84 Is the world record

[iskandarov15]

how many millimetre is this Prussik ?

[mikebarter387]

7mm but 6 will work

[prusiknot]

just curious who is handsome blonde prussik

knot guy

[mikebarter387]

You mean who was. It is Paul Valiulis who died in a diving accident last year in the dutch attillis Islands.

[LikeTheTruck]

Good job, the books I've read on tree climbing can be confusing but your vid clears up the prussik. Do some more please.

[IaminHouston]

Very good demo. Needs to mention rope sizes - the Prussik rope must be some degree smaller than the climbing rope, eh? I wonder which is better, the Prussik or the Klimwhachamacallit.

[mikebarter387]

Good question there. Your right sems there has to be a slight diffrence with the prussik being the smaller diamter. Which is better? don't know but I can tell you from the klimwhatchayoucall fan base are finatical about their stupid knot.

[mikebarter387]

The whatchamicallits love their knot

[SthealthRaider]

can u show us how to climb a rope whit the prussik knot?

[mikebarter387]

Already have, watch a few more

[SthealthRaider]

jeah but i dont have a harness! u just wanna use it as a ladder style! to climb treescan i just put my leg in the prusik loop then climb and then push other prusik up and then down prusik up

[mikebarter387]

sorry we just stick to basic mountaineering

[chlqnwkd]

thanks :)

[emarbiz]

very informative

[speedrender]

Excellent video. Very clear and informative for a newbie like myself.

[jasss65]

thanks its helpfull bro

[mountainmanrab]

Thanks,that helped a lot just what i was looking for

[crusader2345]

Thanks, helped a lot.

[muppetandsmurf]

what length of cord was that?

[mikebarter387]

5 meters 7mm

[muppetandsmurf]

cool thanks.

[mikebarter387]

5 meters 7mm

[BillAndrewsVA]

Nice but a climbheist is a better choice for rescues

[BillAndrewsVA]

make that a Kleimheist, hukt on fonics werkt fer me.

[mikebarter387]

Not sure I agree with that.

[BillAndrewsVA]

It is a proven fact that the Prusik knot is not very effective when the rope or cordage is frozen. You said and I quote, "A must know for glacier travel and self rescue", normally high altitude rescues and such are done with webbing not rope. A Klemheist is a better choice with webbing, thus my argument that the Prusik is not the best choice. YMMV, but those are my .02, but what do I know I've been climbing since I was 7. :)

[tylerwhales]

What a jerk, eh?

[mikebarter387]

who me or Bill. Bill knows everything and has been climbing since he was 7

[tylerwhales]

I have no idea what I meant by the above comment. I honestly do not have an explanation. Please do not take offense. I appreciate the knowledge shared through these videos.

Tyler

[BillAndrewsVA]

Moreover is it is much easier to tie than the Prusik and easier to manipulate up the rope as Prusiks often are difficult to release.

[mikebarter387]

If you Say so.

[skyhopper007]

interesting thanks

[NZcaver]

Nice video. Small FYI - Prusik is spelled with one S, named for its inventor Dr. Karl Prusik. If you wish to use a rappel/abseil safety, I suggest rigging a different helical-type hitch below your descender as it can easily be released under load. Something like a "French Wrap"/Autobloq/Machard. Also think about the ratio of cord diameter vs. rope diameter. 50% may work fine for static body weight, but 75% (such as 8mm/11mm) is safer if the hitch could be subjected to shock loading.

[mikebarter387]

Interesting , Not ofetn I get mail from someone who knows what is what. Thanks . read this folks because what he says is true. Most of it I have no idea where the name of the knot came from but I will buy that answer till a better on comes along. interested when he invented this knot.

[panpanou]

Dr. Prusic lived from 1896-1961.

The knot is first mentioned in a technical book 1n 1931.

Regards from Greece. Thanks for uploading very interesting stuff. Very helpful.

[mikebarter387]

I shot a quick clip on rapping. Was suppose to go climbing with my 11 year old daughter but she blew me off to go swimming and swing out on the rope tree. Way cooler thing to do so I thought what the hell and shot a few minutes at rundle rock. Will dump the vids over the next few days.

Joe

[Aplus1974]

Thanks for the series! What are your thoughts on rappel backups. I recently saw the result of a error in which the climber forgot to clip into his bineer (only clipping into his ATC).  The backup worked but he was hanging upside down off his weak leg loop. This made me consider the backup above the tie in point. I think the guide manual suggests off the leg loop as does Freedom of the Hills but I wonder if you'd consider making a video on this topic (or maybe you have)?

[mikebarter387]

I have sort of but we did not discuss the back up. I have a short called don't be HAD. Which stands for Anchor-Harness-Device. The main advantage of the leg loop is that your prussik is set below the belay device and requires very little pressure on the prussik Knot to stop your rappell

[mikebarter387]

Your rappel device does most the holding when the knot is below the device. When the knot is above the belay device and it gets weighted your entire body weight is on the knot. No big deal unless you are free hanging as it can be real difficult to loosen up the knot so that you can continue rappelling. Rappelling is one of those places where people can screw up.

[mikebarter387]

As I guide I almost always hook up guests belay device for then before I leave the belay stance(if I don't know them well). That way I know they are hooked up correctly when I am a hundred feet away.  It is a good subject and I wil try and get a video out this week. Thanks good subject. Watch my main page and it will be the #1 vid next week sometime

Joe

[Aplus1974]

Thanks Joe, if you do a video on rap safety it may be interesting to discuss tying off rope ends and raping with skinny ropes. The incident last August on Sir Donald with the climber rapping off her rope is an example, (I believe) the rope was skinny, rap device was for thicker ropes, no rap backup and rope ends were not tied. Thanks again.

[mikebarter387]

You just wrote the script. Your right about the skinny ropes and belay devices for much larger ropes provide Very little friction. You have to wonder how many unreported close calls have happened. Those were all contributing factors to the Sir donald accident, had she done any one of those things she may be alive today. Where you from sound Canadian

[Aplus1974]

I'm from Calgary. Just got back from Gap SW ridge. Stampede is the perfect excuse to blow off work... gotta love it. I'm making my way through your vids, and I've learnt a few things. I look forward to the ones you post up in the future.

[simongeering]

you can have the best of both worlds if you extend the belay device with a short 30cm sling larksfooted around the belay loop, then you can place a french prusik below the device but attach it to the belay loop thereby avoiding the whole leg loop problem.

[mikebarter387]

Your right that would work well. I am always hesitant to add equipment to the system however the prussik counters whatever mistake could happen. your right best of both worlds.

[janezbboy]

GREAT!!

[TimHersey]

hi mike, i work in a urban search and rescue team in the uk, we are bound to back up to 2 anchor points so usually we work with 100% redundancy for safety reasons, i know it seems a bit of overkill at times but thats what powers that be want

[mikebarter387]

The redundent backup is common in the warden rescue system also. Fully understandable. Sorry I did not make your vid cause I do not fully understand the use of the knot in that application. I have to stick to basic climbing skills for clarity. Industrial rescue equipment and applications are a bit much to cover sorry

Joe

[TimHersey]

hi there handy knots to know, can you post a video showing how to tie a double figure of 8 ie figure of 8 with 2 loops in for separate anchors

[mikebarter387]

I guess I could but who really does that. I think the beefing the anchor point video might answer that. I guessthe problem is visualising the need for two anchors at one location. the complexity is more then most need. Have you ever seen anybody do this in real life

[seamorelilfoot]

great instructions - DO you have MORE

[hftfire]

Thanks... this is an excellent demonstration regarding the proper configuration and application of this extremely important knot that allows my Rope Rescue Hand Winch/Hose Roller to be utilized from any two (2") inch standard trailer hitch slide positioned properly at the scene of nearly any Rope Rescue incident. Much appreciated! 3 w's hoseroller dot org