Hi Buddy, I have a 93 ford Truck E-350 1 Ton Econoline - Van and something happened with the transmission (automatic), full fluid level its OK but when into 1 and 2 .... the truck runs good but for 3rd and 4th the RPMs go up and up (foot on gas accelerating), but the truck doesn't speed up .... i'm stuck on 1st and 2nd...
you are prob getting tired of me lol..but does the bell housing have to come off or can it stay on. i tried with a torch and penetrating oil.and could not even loosen one of them. i snapped 2 of my T50s.i did manage to get the pump moved about 3/8 of an intch but it does not seem to wont to come any farther.lol spent about 8 hours today trying to get the dam thing off lol.
It can stay on but you will have to file it a bit for the pump to slide out easily. You need a socket called 50plus not just the ordinary t50 socket. They can be a pain to get removed especially when one gets stripped. Hammer and chisel time then... or leave it on and file it a bit... goodluck
These bolts have loctite on them so heating them up pretty good will melt the loctite and allow you to get the bolts out easier. You need the T50plus socket not the T50 they are different and you will more than likely strip one of them out.. Take round file and go around the inner diameter of the bellhousing snagging the pump.. hope that makes sense..
lol another question. i worked on tearing it down today .i decided to take valve body and wiring harness off today. but got stuck with the pump. i tried your method but it doesnt budge. my bell housing is different then yours goes all the way around and will seperate from the case..i left the housing on am i m,issing anything or is there a different method for this bell housing.. thnxs
I remove then with a torx 50+ socket and a torch.. but have seen people use a file and make it so the pump will slide out with it on. The pump should still come loose though.
lol prob is 3 and 4 burn up in my 2001 z71 5.3. so i bought i low millage tranny for 300$ off a friend of mine who just wanted the motor.guess what after putting that in lost OD sort of how the other started, so going to rebuild the one i took out.another question. the tranny in my truck now isnt slipping like the other one did just no 4th . could this be the servo.i have it out of the other tranny and if it is could put that in till i ordered a new one.
yes you could have a cut sealing ring on the servo causing a slipping or neutral condition in 4th. Also the TRS swtich could be faulty giving you low line pressure resulting in premature failure..
i am rebuilding a 4L60E in my 2001 Z71 just started the tare down,i wanted to know if the valve body has to be removed in order to remove the input and sun shell.. i want to check out planetary as well before i go to far .want to check out the clutches before i order parts, and will do valve body later. thks.
You will have to remove the pan, filter, epc solenoid, and the tcc solenoid before removing the pump. Then remove the servo to release the band then pull the input drum out. Did your sun shell break?
Hey, i'm tearing down one of these so i can scrap the cast aluminum but i'm stuck because i cant get the snapring off when i get down to the planetary gears
Hi Buddy, I have a 93 ford Truck E-350 1 Ton Econoline - Van and something happened with the transmission (automatic), full fluid level its OK but when into 1 and 2 .... the truck runs good but for 3rd and 4th the RPMs go up and up (foot on gas accelerating), but the truck doesn't speed up .... i'm stuck on 1st and 2nd...
-Solenoid problem ?
-Should I reset by disconnecting battery ?
-No OD light flashes in dashboard.
-No ''CHECK ENGINE'' light.
Thanks for any help ...
djlaiguana1 1 month ago
Excellent video!
caprice2020 1 year ago
why didnt you show how to remove the low reverse piston? thats where im going to get stuck
steveytheone 1 year ago
nice set of vice grips, a good clean cloth and a two way puller gets that pump out beautifully.
MrDbzrapman 1 year ago
other than electronics. Is there anything different in the teardown/rebiuld between the 700 and the L60e?
W31350 1 year ago
For all ppl watching, this rebuild is NOT for the 700R4. The 4L60-E IS NOT the same as the 700R4. The 4L60 is the same. Not the E version.
tbdk87 1 year ago
Excellent video! Reading how to tear it down is ok, but if you never done it before a video like this helps so much.
syntaxerorr 1 year ago
this is the best reference video for me since im rebuilding my 4l60e tranny myself great video thanks for the help!
c4liz 1 year ago
you are prob getting tired of me lol..but does the bell housing have to come off or can it stay on. i tried with a torch and penetrating oil.and could not even loosen one of them. i snapped 2 of my T50s.i did manage to get the pump moved about 3/8 of an intch but it does not seem to wont to come any farther.lol spent about 8 hours today trying to get the dam thing off lol.
wolf360090 2 years ago
It can stay on but you will have to file it a bit for the pump to slide out easily. You need a socket called 50plus not just the ordinary t50 socket. They can be a pain to get removed especially when one gets stripped. Hammer and chisel time then... or leave it on and file it a bit... goodluck
jasonnb20 2 years ago
These bolts have loctite on them so heating them up pretty good will melt the loctite and allow you to get the bolts out easier. You need the T50plus socket not the T50 they are different and you will more than likely strip one of them out.. Take round file and go around the inner diameter of the bellhousing snagging the pump.. hope that makes sense..
jasonnb20 2 years ago
lol another question. i worked on tearing it down today .i decided to take valve body and wiring harness off today. but got stuck with the pump. i tried your method but it doesnt budge. my bell housing is different then yours goes all the way around and will seperate from the case..i left the housing on am i m,issing anything or is there a different method for this bell housing.. thnxs
wolf360090 2 years ago
I remove then with a torx 50+ socket and a torch.. but have seen people use a file and make it so the pump will slide out with it on. The pump should still come loose though.
jasonnb20 2 years ago
lol prob is 3 and 4 burn up in my 2001 z71 5.3. so i bought i low millage tranny for 300$ off a friend of mine who just wanted the motor.guess what after putting that in lost OD sort of how the other started, so going to rebuild the one i took out.another question. the tranny in my truck now isnt slipping like the other one did just no 4th . could this be the servo.i have it out of the other tranny and if it is could put that in till i ordered a new one.
wolf360090 2 years ago
no 4th? Not shifting into, slipping, or a neutral condition? Any engine performace problems.. CEL on... ??
jasonnb20 2 years ago
yes you could have a cut sealing ring on the servo causing a slipping or neutral condition in 4th. Also the TRS swtich could be faulty giving you low line pressure resulting in premature failure..
jasonnb20 2 years ago
i am rebuilding a 4L60E in my 2001 Z71 just started the tare down,i wanted to know if the valve body has to be removed in order to remove the input and sun shell.. i want to check out planetary as well before i go to far .want to check out the clutches before i order parts, and will do valve body later. thks.
wolf360090 2 years ago
You will have to remove the pan, filter, epc solenoid, and the tcc solenoid before removing the pump. Then remove the servo to release the band then pull the input drum out. Did your sun shell break?
jasonnb20 2 years ago
Hey, i'm tearing down one of these so i can scrap the cast aluminum but i'm stuck because i cant get the snapring off when i get down to the planetary gears
DMC16970 2 years ago
@DMC16970
If you have the right set of snap ring pliers this is very easy. You need the type that are flat not round.
jasonnb20 2 years ago