Stephen Koch Climbing Tip - Multi Pitch Belay

[510han]

why is this guy shooting this video shirtless?

[jakerockstar1986]

@510han must be REALLY hot in his garage. He must have been doing a whole heap of climbing in his garage too, lucky he's got that covered with 200 draws and 50 cams on his harness.

[rabud1000]

lmfao what did he put all his gear on for??

[PaulWittRealtor]

Should be tied in with the climbing rope and not a daisy or PAS, I would think. Have the PAS on the anchor somewhere for rope management only. Then when "off belay" is called down attach PAS to the MOST bomber piece and dismantle the WHOLE anchor but leave the bomber piece with you attached on a tensioned PAS. Saves an additional ten seconds or so... IMHO. Rabud1000... everyone looks cooler with all their gear on... I see top ropers with a full rack on... now that's funny.

[jeffisstoned]

Poor guy do you need some shirts?

[pseudololo]

Good stuff for the most part except that you are using what looks like an easy-daisy and belaying from your harness. Those daisies are only rated to 300 lbs. They aren't full strength or made for dynamic loads. They're for aiding body weight only. By having the belay device anchored directly to the anchor system it takes your harness and the daisy out of the equation in a fall, provided that the device can be used in that configuration.

[Elementecho]

@automagp68 Well at least he is wearing pants lol

[mikebarter387]

I get a lot of the same sort of comments on my channel. Things that are obvious to me need to be explained further later. Last dozen video's I have done I end up making then longer explain the pro's and con's. We all strip down the anchor and get set to go but those just learning the basics can't see the advantage of such an obvious shortcut.

[mikebarter387]

For example when you were sixteen your hands were at 10 and 2 while driving a car. 30 years later your crackin a beer, rollin a joint and steering with your knee and doing just fine.

[tetoncaresser]

@mikebarter387 don't forget texting too! all good until it's not! peace, sk

[Smethjt05]

No Way Man! It took 30 seconds to clean it... why not leave it in until you yourself is on belay??? and then clean the gear?? Maybe on a 5.4??? Nope- I'm def. going to leave the anchor to be super safe until I KNOW I AM ON BELAY FROM MY PARTNER and trust he knows how to build bomber solid anchors...  Basically- Never take gear out if you're not on belay!

[tetoncaresser]

@Smethjt05 This is a technique that is for experienced climbers. Good thing to know your partner can build good anchors. Leaving it in takes more time. On long alpine or rock climbs saving 10 seconds here and there is vital. It is also a mentality to always be as efficient as possible. This is not for everyone. Just those who have the skills to know when it is OK to do and want to be as efficient as possible. May you have safe, fun and successful climbing!

[IveGotTheNuts]

@Smethjt05 Dude he clearly STATES if I have room and I have this one to a BOMBER piece. Not a sketchy nut placement but a BOMBER placement. Man bomber means bomber not maybe solid piece of PRO> bomber simple.

[pestobrother]

Any novice climber would do this, it's common sense. I would hesitate to advise new climbers to be on one"bomber" piece even if they are on a BIG ledge. My suggestion would be to delete this video.

[dbeland]

I always leave 2 pieces in... That's your life resting on that last piece until your partner pulls in the slackand puts your on belay.. And really, how much time do you save by having 1 less piece? 5 seconds? I would happily deal with a few second delay knowing I have the redundancy of 2 pieces.

[tetoncaresser]

@dbeland Once your belayer is off, the team has a second anchor in. So worst case - lead climber is anchored in but has not pulled in slack (30 feet for example), and you have pulled your anchor save for the one "bomber" piece and it blows. You fall 30 feet plus rope stretch. I generally do not "hang" on one piece at an anchor. The technique I share in this video, as I mention, is for anchors where you are on a ledge, not hanging on the anchor.

[tetoncaresser]

@dbeland Redundancy is good. The time savings all adds up, especially on multi-pitch and multi day climbs. This technique may not be for everyone. Just sharing some of the tricks I have learned from some wonderful and experienced partners over the 20 plus years I have been climbing..

[werdnativ]

Do you actually call "climbing" to your leader, and then pull the last piece & slings, then rack them, and THEN actually start climbing?

[tetoncaresser]

@werdnativ Yes. I do call "climbing" as soon as they say "climb." That way my belayer knows I heard her and is not going to have to give the call again. If, after I begin moving, the rope does not come up, I say "climbing" again.

[sparsehackle1]

Thanks for the clip stephen.

[tetoncaresser]

@sparsehackle1 My pleasure. What other climbing tips are you interested in?

[petecole192]

Doesn't everyone do this anyway Stephen? Everyone I climb with has always done this as a matter of course, because it's so flippin' obvious if you want to keep the pace up.

[tetoncaresser]

As far as I know everyone does not do this. Hence the reason for the vid...

Good point about how this helps keep the pace up!

[1138thz]

@petecole192

No! I wish they did. I see people fucking around all the time. Go do Frenzy when there is a conga line and watch the show of how people are wasting their time and yours.