Added: 4 years ago
From: mescalito69
Views: 23,733
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  • hi Mark,

    you soloed shield ? well, space is a great route, fantastic steep and smooth rock, watch the long traverse into mescalito and the last 2 pitches (backcleaning caused rescue falls here) wish you luck & lots of fun. mescalito is great, but space even more ... perspective is like on the shield with more monkeys around (trip, zenyatta and zodiac) ...

  • Going to do Space this Fall. Sits to the right and shares some pitches higher up with Mescalito. How is it climbing El Cap from that perspective?

  • I think Henry is a German. I met him in Yosemiti Mai 2004.

  • @TheMRrunout :

    you are right ... but nothing wrong with that ?

  • Was this in the autumn of 2007? I think I met Henry in the Caf and shared a few conversations...he's older than your standard wall climber, an Austrian or German businessman? If I recall he told me everything has to end and he was going to retire from climbing (or at least climbing walls) and sell his gear after that Yos trip. If he did, one can't ask for finishing on higher note than Mescalito. Nice footage of the thermals.

  • hi @Lovegasoline

    I climbed Mescalito in autumn 2005, in autumn 2007 I was also there and video-covered the nose speed record of the Hubers from ground. Yes, I am living in Munich, Germany and Mescalito was my last bigwall (I was 60 by then). Now I am still climbing a little bit in order to keep my body in shape. And the complete bigwall gear was sold in one step in 2007.

    I enjoyed Mescalito very much .... a perfect end of a long climbing life.

    Keep on buddy - enjoy the big stone ...

  • Was this in the autumn of 2007? I think I met Henry in the Caf and had a few interesting conversations...he's an older dude than your standard wall climber, an Austrian or German businessman? If I recall he told me he was going to retire from climbing (or at least climbing walls) and sell his gear after this climb. Nice footage of the thermals.

  • how do you do #2

  • @iamborghini1

    no way now ... the whole clip was blocked by this f@@#+ UMG (music right watchers). I shall make a new audio track, so clip #2 will be available again ....

  • Shit I thought this was gonna be Tommy Caldwell trying this free...next!

  • @BigPerm5000

    writing this you seem to be a real idiot !!!

    did't you see or read the headline/subtitle to this video ? how can you make such an error of assumption ? drunk, stoned ?

  • @mescalito69 Um no. I simply clicked this link after watching a Tommy Caldwell video. My assumption was that it was going to be a video of Tommy working on the Route Mescalito, which he is trying to free climb. To answer your question I didn't read the description, sorry.

  • well my friend,

    I did not want to smallen your hard aid achievements, lost in america is definitely harder then zenyatta.

    only important is your personal experience and the impressions & excitements you take home ... you get for it no reward, no money and only a handful appreciate what you've done, and congratulations to the 5th ascent of Reticent, are you still missing "highway to hell" ?

    wish you good times on your next wall, dude ...and return home safely

  • so you think "lost in America " is a level harder then mescalito..??? really..?? i have climbed 14 walls and that one is not a level harder by any meams...i climbed that last year adn its full on thin nailing and hooking for many....for sure a full on route....as it is i did the 5th of the reticent in 97....

  • you ever heard of rope bags..?? man thats a nasty rope mess.....shit to restack....

  • we never had a rope mess .... so what ?

  • ummm that giant rope cluster at 3:04..its ok man ,,,,,next time rope management.....

  • very nice work at 8:30 minutes. Good camerawork showing the nice alien placements. the leader is obviously an experienced aid climber. My buddy 'gambler' did Mescalito and he said it was awsome.

  • yeah...Mescalito is awsome, is the grand of the elcap routes, long, sustained, challeging and beautiful rock ... we both are advanced aid climbers ... have fun and try

  • ahhh yeah mescalito is not hard for Advanced aid climbers.....mostly clean aid....thats why tommy is trying to free it....lots of blown placements.....if you guys are hard go for " atlantic ocean" or "lost in america.." those will wake you up.//.

  • well, there are 3 aid levels: c1, c2, c3-c4 .

    well mescalito is mostly c2 with c2+ and a few c3.

    PO-wall and LostInAmerica is a level harder, but not like Reticent .... we had no ambition for the "real hard ones" on ElCap. only insiders know the difference, the rest of the world is impressed by any ElCap wall ....

  • yes, music audio barred by UMG/WMG - fuck them .....

  • I think the sound was removed from this?

  • yes, music/audio barred by UMG/WMG - fuck them ...

  • what's the name of song in 5:45 min of this video pls?

  • hi phonzap,

    song is U2 "still haven't found what I am looking for .."

  • Thx ;-)

  • As a beginner to bigwalling this is exactly the video I wanted to see. DO NOT EDIT! Thanks for posting.

  • Consider cutting this down to 5 mins. The sense of thrill drains, and the monotony of big walling sets in. It's great footage (some of the better wall footage on youtube), just needs to be cut down.

  • well, other people like it that way. primar intention was to show beginners what bigwalling is about or to refresh memories of those who climbed mescalito and not for bigwall monkeys. I have no motiviation to start the time-consuming editing business again...

  • laurel from beatifulclimbing blogspot

  • I like how the video isn't edited to death. Gives you the feeling of being there. I'm building a social news site for climbers, google 'peakr' to check it out & please register.

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