i have to question the efficacy of annealing by heating and insulating only the tip, as the heat conduction of the rest of your stock is likely to cool the thinner forged section quickly in either event. i don't know that it would be much more effective than merely air cooling it.
@concretefeet Oh absolutely, but im only looking to soften the tip as that is the only bit i want to work on and would rather have it soft and make my linishing belts last alot longer. Im not sanding further up so I don't worry about it being a bit harder. Of course it won't be fully hard as it wasn't taken to critical temp anyway.
Just an added tip with using the magnet: Critical point being nonmagnetic only works as the steel is being heated. As the steel cools, it will remain non magnetic until the steel cooled beyond the critical temp.
@nikrguy Absolutely... i should have said that in the vid... can easily make a mistake with that one! These days i know the bright orange colour to so well i dont tend to test with a magnet anymore.. just once in a while to make sure my colour recognition is still good! What are your thoughts on multi heatingg- then quneching.. 3 times is allgedly the best... but things really tend to warp then, meaning a further heating to straighten and further critical quneching which then lowers the quality
I think it really depends on the steel. My understanding is that 52100 and other high alloy content steels respond better to triple quench. Simpler alloy steels don't benefit as much. In my experience thermal cycling at sub critical for grain refinement is more important for blade quality than multiple quenches. Realistically what is most important is to obtain a treatment that gives you what you need for the tool. I wish I had a source of L6 for this type of blades...
I've been trying to figure out how to reset or set scandi bevels since Caesar was a lance corporal. Thanks for clear instructions and excellent idea. I'd expect nothing less from a fellow school teacher.; ) I've been grinding all afternoon. Merci beaucoup mon ami!
Well done video!
fixitman21 1 month ago
i have to question the efficacy of annealing by heating and insulating only the tip, as the heat conduction of the rest of your stock is likely to cool the thinner forged section quickly in either event. i don't know that it would be much more effective than merely air cooling it.
willing to be wrong, ccf.
keep up the great craft.
concretefeet 1 year ago
@concretefeet Oh absolutely, but im only looking to soften the tip as that is the only bit i want to work on and would rather have it soft and make my linishing belts last alot longer. Im not sanding further up so I don't worry about it being a bit harder. Of course it won't be fully hard as it wasn't taken to critical temp anyway.
LearnBushcraft 1 year ago
@LearnBushcraft i get you; thanks for taking the time to reply.
concretefeet 1 year ago
Just an added tip with using the magnet: Critical point being nonmagnetic only works as the steel is being heated. As the steel cools, it will remain non magnetic until the steel cooled beyond the critical temp.
nikrguy 1 year ago
@nikrguy Absolutely... i should have said that in the vid... can easily make a mistake with that one! These days i know the bright orange colour to so well i dont tend to test with a magnet anymore.. just once in a while to make sure my colour recognition is still good! What are your thoughts on multi heatingg- then quneching.. 3 times is allgedly the best... but things really tend to warp then, meaning a further heating to straighten and further critical quneching which then lowers the quality
LearnBushcraft 1 year ago
@LearnBushcraft
I think it really depends on the steel. My understanding is that 52100 and other high alloy content steels respond better to triple quench. Simpler alloy steels don't benefit as much. In my experience thermal cycling at sub critical for grain refinement is more important for blade quality than multiple quenches. Realistically what is most important is to obtain a treatment that gives you what you need for the tool. I wish I had a source of L6 for this type of blades...
nikrguy 1 year ago
@LearnBushcraft
I've actually never triple quenched. My understanding is that with a long enough soak it shouldn't be necessary...but I'm not an expert.
nikrguy 7 months ago
I've been trying to figure out how to reset or set scandi bevels since Caesar was a lance corporal. Thanks for clear instructions and excellent idea. I'd expect nothing less from a fellow school teacher.; ) I've been grinding all afternoon. Merci beaucoup mon ami!
bodgermorg 1 year ago
this video answered all my questions about grinding bevels and heat treating. Thanks man!
skippidydooda 1 year ago
Excellent stuff mate.
5*
RDPproject 1 year ago
great videos dale i am very glad to see you back!!
flamefinger1989 1 year ago
Glad too see your making videos again ;-) good info
suaverider 1 year ago
Great tutorial
thebibleisfiction 1 year ago
great stuff,
fredde
hobbexp 1 year ago