Tube Radio Repair--Component Lead Soldering Tip.

[TundraWalk3r]

A great video John.

I have done this, but never coiled the leads. I will do that in the future.

[joernone]

@TundraWalk3r,

I'm glad it helped.

One of these days I have to redo this vid. My camera is better and I now use editing software. I'll try to get to that soon.

Thanks for watching.

Regards,

John

[electriglider]

I'm so glad I found your video. I am attempting my first repair of a 1953 Zenith clock radio and you have just helped me very much. Thank you for the post!

[joernone]

@electriglider,

Hello there. I'm also glad you found this video. You've reminded me that I need to finally get off my duff and redo it. I now have a much better camera and editing software to work with. Hopefully the results will be much better. I believe I'll do it this weekend.

Good luck with your repair job and thanks for watching.

Regards,

John.

[Cranberry404]

This technique has saved me from frustration many times, not to mention tube sockets and band switch terminals.

Thank you for demonstrating and posting this tip.

Terry Nixey, Alberta Canada

[zahinh]

That simple suggestion rates 5 stars. A tip of the hat to ye!

[joernone]

@zahinh

Now that I have a video camera and a good editing program I probably should redo this video. It was one of my first uploads...not such a good one. The quality sorta sucked.

Thanks for the positive response. I hope the tip saves you loads of time.

Regards,

John

[radiobigman47]

I no this is a old video but im going have to try it i just got going on a espey R-366 receiver it's a big radio at 80lbs it's not the radio you just tug all over the place or try not too i just got in to working on geting the old molded paper cap's out im putting a lot of new mylar caps in i just put a video of it up here on you tube be funny to see it on your corner of the deck you would need to put a another deck under it just to hold it up hope to see more of the hw101 .73's kc9kuh

[joernone]

@radiobigman47

I watched your R-366 video. That's a very good looking unit. Beneath the chassis reminds me of my Hammarlund HQ-129X...not too complicated.

Good luck with it and thanks for dropping by.

P.S. Are you a member of the Antique Radio Forum? If not, it would be to your benefit to join. You'll find the folks who frequent the "Communication Section" to be very helpful.

Regards,

John

[radiobigman47]

@joernone

yes i love the Antique Radio Forum i go there a lot now they have helped me out a lot and they are a lot of good guy's on there 73's kc9kuh

[radioripster]

I've heard some argue that soldering to old leads is not a good idea because of the old solder joints..being..well old and and a new dab of solder is better. For me, I like soldering to existing leads too for the same reason and your coiling method is a good as I've seen that from time to time on older repair work. Like the the majority here, I'd rather not cause myself more work! Good post.

Thanks.

"rr"

[joernone]

rr,

Hi. It's good to hear from you.

Soldering new components to existing leads can be a problem if the old solder joint looks like crap. It's a judgement call. If the joint looks bad, then resolder it prior to installing the new component. But know this: It's a lot easier to install a component to existing leads than it is to replace a socket because you muffed it up trying to completely remove a nasty old component.

Thanks for watching.

Regards,

John

[jmlocke1944]

Super idea,thanks so much.

[joernone]

I still use this method. Never yet had a problem. Just take your time and do it right. Never hurry when soldering.

Thanks for watching.

Regards,

John

[SoCalGuy93065]

Good tip, but of course you realize that you're creating a resonant circuit by combining a coil with a capacitor. Probably won't matter at the frequencies you're working with in that radio, but just thought I'd raise the point.

[TZCheesecaek]

lol. A cople days ago my friend and I were taking apart a 16x disk drive when we saw a bold warning that said it had lead sodering in it!

[joernone]

SilverMoonJoe,

Thanks. There will be more videos in the near future. I want to first get a new camera. Planning to get it next month.

Regards,

John

[SilverMoonJoe]

Hi! This is a GREAT tip!!! Tnx so much for sharing your expertise with us/me newbies!!...

Hope to see more videos from you soon!

God bless...

Joe-k4jga

[Lockemeister]

I like this tip. I will incorporate this technique into my future repairs when unsoldering the lead is impractical or impossible. Like on a coil form lug.

[listenact]

Very helpful, thank you!

[KC8YOQ]

You slip the coil you made OVER the stub ? Do you tighten the coil on the stub then solder?

It sureis a great idea BUT please claify!

[joernone]

Do not tighten the coils. Just slip them over the stubs and solder in place.  One of the benefits of the coil method is the ease of future removal. If you were to tighten the coils they would be difficult to remove. But you may do whatever you want. It would work either way.

Thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John

[joernone]

yodabasher,

Glad to hear your recapping went well. During the last year I've restored about a dozen vintage radios using the coil method and all continue to play great. You'll find that the more you use the coil method the better you'll become at using it. Like anything else, practice makes perfect.

Thanks for watching.

Regards,

John

[yodabasher]

I just finished recapping my Airline radio yesterday using your coil method. I was dreading sticking my soldering iron in to remove old connections, your method is much easier and works well. Thanks for the video.

[joernone]

Glad to hear things went well.

The key to the coil method of soldering is to take one's time; don't rush it. On more than one occasion I've screwed up, had to restraighten the coil and do it again.

As for the Naval Jelly treatment: Again, take your time...steady as she goes. Sometimes several applications are required.

I need to post some new vids, but can't seem to get the time.

Thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John

[dynatrak]

Hi, I used this method to re-cap my Magnavox amp 185-11, and the naval jelly to clean up the rust on the chassis. Thanks for posting these very helpful tips!

[joernone]

You're right...Mil-spec it isn't, but it does prevent loads of damage. Thus far it's worked very well for me. I especially like the ease of possible future component removal. And I am familiar with those Quigs. At one time they could be bought by the box-full. How we vintage radio types pine for the old days, huh?

Thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John

[N2IXK]

This is a very good technique. Mil-spec it ain't, but it could prevent a lot of damage when working on vintage consumer electronics.

IIRC, Sprague used to include little pretinned, fluxed wire springs called "quigs" with their replacement capacitors, to be used in just this manner.

[joernone]

Bill,

Sometimes I also use the hook method. Both it and the coils work fairly well. The intent is to not butcher the socket pins. Changing out sockets is no fun for me. My eyes aren't as good and my hands not as steady as they once were.

Again, thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John

[old64goat]

That is a very good method, but I use the "hook" method, I clean the stub of where the old component was soldered provided that connection is soldered good at the tube socket, etc.

I clean the stub with a razor blade than I make a hook in the stub.

Than make a hook in the new component pinch the hooks closed and solder.

Mines not the best method, your is better.

Thanks for posting...Bill

[joernone]

Maxxarcade,

You're exactly right about possibly breaking off or heat-damaging socket lugs, or terminal strip lugs, when attempting to completely remove old component leads. To me, it's just not worth the risk. In this respect, it really is better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks for viewing.

John

[Maxxarcade]

I really like this idea. I'll try it on my Magnavox CR154 restoration whenever there is a difficult-to-reach component. This is so much neater looking than the hook splice method.

Normally I would completely remove old component leads, but I'm concerned about breaking off a socket lug, or exposing it to too much heat while trying to unsolder.

[damusician]

i do the same techique too. it make work a lot easier.

[chbitter]

Fantastic

[joernone]

Thanks. I'm happy to see I've received more positive reactions than negative. In a few minutes I'll be replacing a couple of filter cap on my latest project. The coil method will of course be used.

Thanks for viewing.

John

[MarksCoffeehouse]

I just acquired a Johnson Ranger transmitter and the previous owner had re-capped the unit using this method...looked good.

[joernone]

MCH,

Glad your unit looks good. But even with the coil method, it's very easy to load up on the solder, which many folks do.

Years ago you could buy small, handy-dandy, ready-made coils. I've since seen demonstrations on how to make your own, but for me it's easier and faster to just coil the component leads.

Thanks for watching.

Regards,

John

[MarksCoffeehouse]

Interesting as I've been doing something along similar lines on my re-capping jobs. I think yours is a bit more refined so I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

[joernone]

MCH,

Thanks for watching.

Not sure this method is exactly refined, but it does have its advantages.  In terms of vintage radio repair, one can easily tell which of solder connections were done at the factory and which were done by the restorer. Comes in pretty handy when it's realized a cap or resistor was soldered to the wrong connection...which of course I've never done. You do believe that, don't you?:)

Regards,

John

[MarksCoffeehouse]

I believe you! Guyz liked us nver mack misteaks. I dun't anywae. Lol.

73, Mark

[coondogtheman1234]

im definitly gonna do this when i can get parts for my tube amp, but is there a method like this on replacing a cap

[joernone]

Coondog,

The coil method can be used to install any modern component. The component shown in the video is a capacitor. Just know that not all electronics repairmen/restorers recommend doing it this way. It's a matter of personal choice. But it works fine for me.

Regards,

John

[coondogtheman1234]

thanks for the tip ill definitly use this tip when I do repair work like this, it makes perfect sense, you mention it in the video and it makes perfect sense to me

[vinylman86]

ever since i watched this vid, i've been doing that way too n it worx 4 me 2.

[joernone]

Vinylman,

Just make sure the lead is insulated as close to the bottom of the coil as possible. Since the coil is larger in diameter, if too much of it remains exposed it could short out a component that's very close to it.

Thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John

[AllAmericanFiveRadio]

Hey John,

Oh, the radio purists aren't going to like this.

But I agree with you and do this my self most of the time. I definitely recommend this method to beginners. If you damage a tube socket and have to replace it, it is most likely that the replacement will be a different physical size. And that's a real pain.

Rick

[joernone]

Rick,

If the purists want to install the components for me, I'll be very happy to let them do so. If not, the coil method will continue to reign supreme with me. I'm not interested in spending money to replace butchered tube sockets just to maintain some philosophy. I'm now working on two radios that have been trashed by some old-time repairman. My philosophy is to repair them with minimal additional damage. The coil method helps me do that. Thanks for viewing.

Regards,

John