Added: 2 years ago
From: mbyr31
Views: 8,878
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  • no help at all!

  • where can i get a spark tester? and i always take the plug out and put it on a piece of metal and test it and im also wondering where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a briggs

  • You can get a spark tester at any auto parts store. I just usually pull the plug and set it on the head and pull it over. That works too.

    As far as a carb rebuild kit, you can get them online or you can get them through a local tractor sales and service dealer. Thats what I usually do.

  • alright man thanks

  • well, i believe most tecumsehs suck but their snowblower motors werent that bad.. the lawn mower engines are pretty cheap to buy and fix too. but i agree on the fact that they're not as good as briggs and stratton...

  • Hey Matt at 6:22 there is a round concaved plug on the left hand side of the inside of the carb. I bought a carb kit that included a replacement one of these. Do you know what it does or why I would want to replace it? Thanks for your expert advice.

    PS: I think that John Deere might have been manufactured by Ariens but not sure. It sure looks like one and I know at one time they did make the JD snow blowers. Just a little food for thought.

  • That round concave thing at 6:22 is called a welch plug. There is usually two on a carburetor. Almost 99% of the time you don't have to replace them when doing a rebuild unless of course they are absolutely shot.

  • What do they do? How can you tell when they're "shot" ? Mine was covered in shit but I scraped it off. It surges at times but seems like it will do the job. Did I just sell myself to the devil? AGAIN??

  • Well, the one you are refering to distributes air into the float bowl creating pressure to allow fuel to flow to the throat. The reason they do that is because of the manufacturing process of the carburetor.

    As far as knowing when it's shot.... if it don't clean up, or has holes in it, it is shot. Then you need to replace them.

  • thats an expansion plug they put in after machining/milling the entire thing. thats where a drill bit or something bored out the thing at several angles. its plugged so fuel or vaccum pressure doesn't go where it could affect the function of the carb.

  • you know one easy thing to do is dump the gas put in fresh gas, then take the carbs float bowl scew out form under neath make sure you got gas flow then turn the gas off at the tank, next take the brass screw which also has your jets in it and clean it out with and air pic, then remove the bowl make sure there is no water in it , reasssemble then fire it up and all shoudl be good, your takeing to many steps that may not need to be taken , in fact 99% of the time thats the problem,

  • absolutely!!! Actually, most of the time, I don't remove the carburetor. I just wanted to show the removal and cleaning process the best I could in the time alotted for the video. But, you are absolutely right, you really don't always have to remove the whole carb, and in most cases, I won't!! Just depends on the situation and what everything looks like when I do remove the bowl!!

    Check out my latest carb rebuild!!! LMAO!!

    Thanks for the info!

  • yeah like to check the primer, dont even remove the shroud! just take the pipe off the carb and cover it with ur thumb and press the primer. if you hear air leaking out-theres your problem and then disassemble the shroud.

  • i hate those motors....with a passion

  • good vid man

  • good vid, i like the way the electric start is

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