WARNING Personal anchoring systems like I'm using in the video are NOT designed to take static falls. An article that I read recently described in detail how those things can fail on surprisingly short falls from static anchors. One more good reason to always have a redundant connection between you and the rock! Since the video was made, I've dumped the anchor system that's shown in the video. Now I prefer to use two super long quickdraws that work nicely for almost all cleaning applications.
Really wonderfully done. Really helped, also thank you so much for explaining edict on permanent gear! Not alot of new climbers who just get out there know much.
Hmm... Have you tested the effectiveness of a firemans belay with one of your ropes running through the quickdraws? It seems to me like there would be a whole lot of slack to pull out of the system before the firemans belay starts effectively braking the rappeller.
Whether your rope is running directly to the ground or through some quickdraws, there should be little or no slack in the system when you begin your double rope rappel. Even if a bit of rope gets pulled between the quickdraws as you're coming down, as long as your belayer pulls both ends of the rope tight, the fireman's style belay should create enough friction in your rappel device to arrest your descent. In other words, the affect of the fireman's belay should be immediate.
awesome job -- thank you -- very detailed, I would still get a guide to walk me through it for the first time but your video is excellent overview of the sequence of steps.
DO NOT TRY THIS FOR YOURSELF without receiving hands on instruction from someone who is qualified. This video is helpful for those without such resources, but remember to always back up your rappel with a fireman's belay or, even better, autoblock below your rappel device. Also, when attaching the rope to your harness before untying, ALWAYS ATTACH IT TO SOMETHING THAT IS LOAD-BEARING, i.e. a leg loop or belay loop. A gear loop is not intended for such loads and should not be trusted.
Once you're off belay, it doesn't matter what your rope is tied to (as long as it can bear the weight of the rope of course); if you screw up the procedure, you're going to eat dirt anyway! Also, if you're cleaning a top-roped route, there's probably no pro between you and the ground anyway, even if you were still on belay. Remember, we're setting up to rappel, not to be lowered through the anchors.
My point was that a leg loop (or the anchor itself) is a better place to which to attach the rope precisely because it can bear the weight of the rope. Though gear loops are quite strong, there are much more reliable places to attach something as important as your rope. Consider what would happen if the gear loop that held the rope broke. It will always be preferable to attach the rope to a leg loop or the chains.
Good point! I was worried that someone might get a false sense of security in thinking that the rope might help them if they botched the procedure. By the way, I wear a Metolius Safe-Tech harness which boasts over-engineered Spectra gear loops (tested at 2250 lbf / 10kN). That should be enough to hold me and my rope even in a fall. Great harness! I recommend it highly! Especially considering that many climbing injuries occur due to harness/gear usage errors even with experienced climbers.
Great video, thanks for the first-person POV. I have led a few routes in my short time climbing but haven't cleaned my own yet. This gives me a little confidence to actually see what goes on up there. Thanks for sharing!
WARNING Personal anchoring systems like I'm using in the video are NOT designed to take static falls. An article that I read recently described in detail how those things can fail on surprisingly short falls from static anchors. One more good reason to always have a redundant connection between you and the rock! Since the video was made, I've dumped the anchor system that's shown in the video. Now I prefer to use two super long quickdraws that work nicely for almost all cleaning applications.
z4yourself 1 week ago
Really wonderfully done. Really helped, also thank you so much for explaining edict on permanent gear! Not alot of new climbers who just get out there know much.
noahac1 2 weeks ago
Is that a sling he is anchored into?
DaCravenator 5 months ago
@DaCravenator Way late, but it's a personal anchor system. It's like a daisy chain, but each loop is rated to take a fall.
MikedotFoster 3 weeks ago
Great, great video. Im just getting into climbing and read that this one of the more dangerous maneuvers. I was getting scared just watching !
RedDragon0719 6 months ago
Hmm... Have you tested the effectiveness of a firemans belay with one of your ropes running through the quickdraws? It seems to me like there would be a whole lot of slack to pull out of the system before the firemans belay starts effectively braking the rappeller.
thegibsonfromhell 10 months ago
Whether your rope is running directly to the ground or through some quickdraws, there should be little or no slack in the system when you begin your double rope rappel. Even if a bit of rope gets pulled between the quickdraws as you're coming down, as long as your belayer pulls both ends of the rope tight, the fireman's style belay should create enough friction in your rappel device to arrest your descent. In other words, the affect of the fireman's belay should be immediate.
z4yourself 9 months ago
i wanna climb there! that wall looks really fun, where is marble canyon??
steve02008 11 months ago
@steve02008
It's actually Maple Canyon and it's just outside of Fountain Green, UT
z4yourself 11 months ago
awesome job -- thank you -- very detailed, I would still get a guide to walk me through it for the first time but your video is excellent overview of the sequence of steps.
ttljournal 1 year ago
DO NOT TRY THIS FOR YOURSELF without receiving hands on instruction from someone who is qualified. This video is helpful for those without such resources, but remember to always back up your rappel with a fireman's belay or, even better, autoblock below your rappel device. Also, when attaching the rope to your harness before untying, ALWAYS ATTACH IT TO SOMETHING THAT IS LOAD-BEARING, i.e. a leg loop or belay loop. A gear loop is not intended for such loads and should not be trusted.
dp1381 1 year ago
Thanks for the comment but please remember:
Once you're off belay, it doesn't matter what your rope is tied to (as long as it can bear the weight of the rope of course); if you screw up the procedure, you're going to eat dirt anyway! Also, if you're cleaning a top-roped route, there's probably no pro between you and the ground anyway, even if you were still on belay. Remember, we're setting up to rappel, not to be lowered through the anchors.
REMINDER: Cleaning can kill you!
z4yourself 1 year ago
@z4yourself
My point was that a leg loop (or the anchor itself) is a better place to which to attach the rope precisely because it can bear the weight of the rope. Though gear loops are quite strong, there are much more reliable places to attach something as important as your rope. Consider what would happen if the gear loop that held the rope broke. It will always be preferable to attach the rope to a leg loop or the chains.
dp1381 1 year ago
Good point! I was worried that someone might get a false sense of security in thinking that the rope might help them if they botched the procedure. By the way, I wear a Metolius Safe-Tech harness which boasts over-engineered Spectra gear loops (tested at 2250 lbf / 10kN). That should be enough to hold me and my rope even in a fall. Great harness! I recommend it highly! Especially considering that many climbing injuries occur due to harness/gear usage errors even with experienced climbers.
z4yourself 1 year ago
BTW--what camera setup are you using?
nuclearhudson 1 year ago
It's a GoPro Hi Def. Glad you like the video!
z4yourself 1 year ago
Great video, thanks for the first-person POV. I have led a few routes in my short time climbing but haven't cleaned my own yet. This gives me a little confidence to actually see what goes on up there. Thanks for sharing!
nuclearhudson 1 year ago 2
Great video!
iforwms 1 year ago
Nice video-thx
jeepzmp 1 year ago