That is a cool control board! Im going to try ur idea on my tank. Im working on a 300g project that ur idea would come in handy. Thank u so much. Great video!
That built in switch controller is a smart idea and surely saved you a few hundred bucks. Without it, in oder to do what it does, you would need a digital controller sort of like my Reef Keeper lite system. Good job on that, but man, there is like no water movement in your tank whatsoever dude. Your anemone did not even move a tentacle in the video. Got to get at least a cheap powerhead for now until you can get something better.
@ryjack26 The problem with that lies in that you need to have the halides on for at least 8 hours a day to have some sort of photosynthesis occur. Actinic lights are used mostly for us to view the corals fluorescent zooxanthellae algae, but the par/lumen of actinic lighting is so low, that your anemone will surely bleach in a few weeks. You are actually killing the anemone without longer periods of lighting despite the power of MH's.
@ryjack26 With metal halides, you will get the best Par/Lumen available but you absolutely need a chiller. Before I got my chiller, I tried everything in the book, fans, a blower, ice in a zip lock bag floating on the surface, you name it and I still had heat issues. All of the above mentioned only work to lower the temperature 2 or three degrees but when your tank is at 90 degrees, lowering it to 87 means disaster about to happen.
That is a cool control board! Im going to try ur idea on my tank. Im working on a 300g project that ur idea would come in handy. Thank u so much. Great video!
1jaedon 3 months ago
that shit looks like an electrocution bound to happen
Teslasdik 4 months ago
wat type of skimmer do you run is it quite?
thanks and sweet tank
TheSharkchum 8 months ago
very well done man
arthurobregon08 8 months ago
Nice! I would like to see the finished project on your cover up. Would also like to see more details on your switch creation. Good Job!
bilbobag111 9 months ago
I have the same blanket as you
GumbyGoneWildProds 1 year ago
do you only run actinic bulbs?
memorex0027 1 year ago
@memorex0027 no i get home from work after the halides turn off, i think i have a vid of them on..
ryjack26 1 year ago
Could you make a short video explaining how to make that switch controller? That would be awesome.
FONZiEownzU 1 year ago
@FONZiEownzU sure
ryjack26 1 year ago
That built in switch controller is a smart idea and surely saved you a few hundred bucks. Without it, in oder to do what it does, you would need a digital controller sort of like my Reef Keeper lite system. Good job on that, but man, there is like no water movement in your tank whatsoever dude. Your anemone did not even move a tentacle in the video. Got to get at least a cheap powerhead for now until you can get something better.
newyorksteelo 1 year ago
@newyorksteelo ive got a koralia 4 on order, he'll be fine temp. right?
ryjack26 1 year ago
@ryjack26 Fine temp?
newyorksteelo 1 year ago
@newyorksteelo yea, i run the mh's 2.5 hrs a day and i have open top/ sump, it suns at about 76-78 and it is the middle of summer
ryjack26 1 year ago
@ryjack26 The problem with that lies in that you need to have the halides on for at least 8 hours a day to have some sort of photosynthesis occur. Actinic lights are used mostly for us to view the corals fluorescent zooxanthellae algae, but the par/lumen of actinic lighting is so low, that your anemone will surely bleach in a few weeks. You are actually killing the anemone without longer periods of lighting despite the power of MH's.
newyorksteelo 1 year ago
@ryjack26 With metal halides, you will get the best Par/Lumen available but you absolutely need a chiller. Before I got my chiller, I tried everything in the book, fans, a blower, ice in a zip lock bag floating on the surface, you name it and I still had heat issues. All of the above mentioned only work to lower the temperature 2 or three degrees but when your tank is at 90 degrees, lowering it to 87 means disaster about to happen.
newyorksteelo 1 year ago