If you go through a fire block and fill the whole with fire foam, you must switch to plenum rated cables! They are making this so much harder than it needs to be.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. I just finished mounting a flat panel TV and was unsure how to hide the cables. I would prefer to hide them in the wall like this video presents. Great job. Kudos!!!
In Europe when you build a house you install cable ducts inside the walls. If you want to replace a cable or run a new one, the only thing you need is a flexible nylon probe that you push inside the duct from outlet A to outlet B, and that pulls the new cable with it. Why don't they do that in the US?? I would like to run a new LAN cable between two rooms, I can't believe I have to make HOLES in the wall at every stud!! wtf?!?!
@squalho Yep, I agree with you. It is such a hassle to run cables here. I had to drill a hole through one of my walls to connect an old PC to my router. The distance between that computer and where I have my home network setup is about 10-13 feet, MAX.
@Kingnothing8585 I wonder, is there some sort of weird regulation, maybe fire hazard, that does not allow to use wire ducts? It seems that even during the house construction is would be much easier to run cables that way rather than relying on studs...
@squalho what a poorly thought out response. The point of this video is not about running new wire from existing outlets but rather installing brand new outlets that never existed before.
@strumpeteer The video explains how to fish cables. My comment was related to the fact that fishing cables is just a big pain, whether you have to do it to run a new wire (and/or remove the old one) or to install a new outlet.
Are you talking about the pure electrical installations of a house? Installing power outlets, distribution board and so on? I don't know how you do it in the US but here in Sweden we use plastic pipes within the wall. We call it VP-rör (literally "VP pipe") which is a stiff plastic pipe in dimensions 10, 12, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40 or 50 mm in diameter. The 16 to 25 are the most common ones in a normal installation.
There is also something we call flexrör (literally "flex pipe") which is a flexible pipe as the name suggests, or just "slang" ("hose"). I believe the common brand is called PowerFlex. These pipes are commonly used in concrete walls or near the distribution board. They are flexible and simply easier to work with in some situations.
Then there is something we call "dragfjäder" (literally "pulling spring") which is like you said a flexible probe, and it has a stiff spring at one end (hence the "spring" in the name) with a loop at the top. So what you do is you start at outlet A and you feed this probe through the pipe system in the wall until it comes out at the other end, B!
Then you strip one or several copper wires (i.e. ground, neutral and live wire) and you feed them through the loop hole and twist them to tie them to the loop and you feed them back into the pipes by pulling the "pulling spring" back in from outlet A until the wires reach the outlet. Then you cut the wires at outlet B and you have all three wires installed. Simple and easy!
The pulling spring can be up to 30 meters long, and if you're an experienced electrician you will know how to use it to pull out wires for more than one outlet at the same time, to speed up the process. But this is, as far as I know, only applicable for the electrical installation of a house. When you build a house you plan it so that the walls are prepared with pipes and holes in fire blocks (where applicable) so that everything is ready for the electrician to make the necessary wiring
But, again, this is only applicable to electrical installations. You don't normally use these pipes to "fish through" your audio or video cables, since you don't share the same pipes for audio and video with your electrical wires. It's not really a cable "duct".
There are of course cable ducts here too, but these are usually used in offices or schools in Sweden and they are "utanpåliggande" which means they are mounted onto the wall rather then "into" the wall ("infäld"). So they wouldn't look nice in a living room environment. Especially since they are almost always white in color and very large.
Some of these cable ducts can even hold up one or several power outlets, Ethernet outlets and even telephone outlets, and they are situated about 1,2 meters up from the room floor (standardized height).
There are solutions, of course, on how to have the same type of convenience and ease of use even for your audio and video cabling. But you would have to think this through and plan it before you build the house.
What this video clip is showing is how to add additional outlets to the wall where it was not planned from the beginning. That's why he was using a stud finder, of course, to know where to drill. It may not be the perfect solution, but it's as good as it gets. Otherwise you would need to tear down the wall or the whole building and build it up again with your audio and video installation in mind.
The previous idea is too far stretched. The most simple solution would be to use simple decorative cable ducts and cable covers to neatly lay down your cables against the wall skirt, or even run it up against the wall or over the ceiling.
There are also specialty products here in Sweden, like the one called "Kanallisten" which is a wall skirt with cable ducting capability, so you can run your cables through it effortlessly. No drilling holes in the wall involved. You can check out their website to get an idea of how it looks like and how it works, just search that term, the website has the same name. This might be interesting for you, if not, then I guess you will just have to drill that hole in the wall.
Nice video, but get your supplies from somebody else. When I bought cables from them on eBay they shorted me a long S-Video cable. They wouldn't respond to my emails or phone calls AT ALL.
ok well this was pretty much accurate, how ever after the pumpkin cut when you used that super short paddle bit, in reality that wouldnt have been enough to get through the block at the angle you were at....also, hdmi cable connectors are pretty wide, its a good technique for passing RG6 cable or some other smaller diameter cable...but in reality they dont even make an extended bit that would be large enough in diameter.....you would need to use the "notch" technique.
This video was actually very good. I do premise wiring for my clients in addition to the typical network support and server setups.
One thing I would add -
ALWAYS start cutting horizontally first! Why? With or without a stud finder...sometimes there is a surprise stud in your way! So if you do, you can just reverse your direction and continue. If you start vertically, you most likely will not find the stud in your way until it is too late and have a bad mess. TRUST ME. Been there, done that!
@QUIX4U may (if inclined) simply GO around a few LOCAL building sites & PHOTOGRAPH these- just to show U (all) overseas builders- how MODERN (earthquake resistant) Wooden Framed "buildings" are constructed here in NZ (both before & after the THICK "fire-retradant" Insulating PINK BATTS- go in). Just to let U- "see"- how dam hard it is "here"- to GET anything else "inside"- or drawn (drilled) DOWN there-- after they're built.!!!
NZ WOODEN FRAMED BUILDINGS have lots & LOTS of horizontal "dwangs"
AND .. i "just" lurv .. the way that American Builders (DON'T) "build" walls - with NO DWANGS .. always fitted between EVERY STUD - AND - at a t rate - of at least TWO - if not THREE "horizontal" 4x2's .. (although ALL - of NZ's timbre framing .. is smooth sawn at 95 x 45 mm now). THUS - "no" wall - in NZ .. has OPEN ACCESS .. between top plate & flooring (unless in OLDER houses .. which had 1" wooden Sarking & with skrim matting covering the walls - as most OLD houses without insulation HAD)
DRYWALL .? We call that stuff Gib Board- as it's made by sandwiching 2 "outer" skins of hard "Carding (Board) Paper" about an inner 8mm thick Fire-retardant Gibraltar Cement in sheets- "ready made" in either a standard size of 1200 x 2400 mm OR LONGER (such as 3600 mm & 4800 mm "Long-Runs").
Plus:
ALL NEW ZEALAND buildings (from around 1995 onwards) were regulated to had to have ALL internal walls (as well as exterior's) FITTED with PINK Fibreglass BATTS.!!
Thanks for the video! I LOVE your products. A couple suggestions for the video, though..
1. Around 2:08 you could give the approximate dimensions of the drywall hole. Also, suggesting that the installer pencil off the outline for the cut would be great.
2. The text on-screen around 2:58 has a typo. "don't be stresses out." should probably be "don't be stressed out."
If you go through a fire block and fill the whole with fire foam, you must switch to plenum rated cables! They are making this so much harder than it needs to be.
hotmercedes 2 weeks ago
how is a narrow block of wood gonna block a fire?
TheEgg185 3 weeks ago
@TheEgg185 it prevents the fire from rising up the stud channel to another floor
dmonaco05 3 weeks ago
@TheEgg185 Suffocates the fire within the wall -- no oxygen
poetsmantra 2 weeks ago
Realita Cinta dan Rock n Roll 9/12
TheEgg185 3 weeks ago
Excellent presentation. Thank you. I just finished mounting a flat panel TV and was unsure how to hide the cables. I would prefer to hide them in the wall like this video presents. Great job. Kudos!!!
daviduresti 1 month ago
This guy is an OUTLAW! Hide your daughters fellas there's a miscreant on the loose!
SuperObvioustroll 3 months ago
those earing make your penis look bigger
miblackbird 3 months ago
you look like a scumbag with those earings
Z0t0Films 3 months ago
@Z0t0Films He's not making this video to impress you dick
mrbrownboy2121 3 months ago
In Europe when you build a house you install cable ducts inside the walls. If you want to replace a cable or run a new one, the only thing you need is a flexible nylon probe that you push inside the duct from outlet A to outlet B, and that pulls the new cable with it. Why don't they do that in the US?? I would like to run a new LAN cable between two rooms, I can't believe I have to make HOLES in the wall at every stud!! wtf?!?!
squalho 3 months ago
@squalho Yep, I agree with you. It is such a hassle to run cables here. I had to drill a hole through one of my walls to connect an old PC to my router. The distance between that computer and where I have my home network setup is about 10-13 feet, MAX.
Kingnothing8585 3 months ago
@Kingnothing8585 I wonder, is there some sort of weird regulation, maybe fire hazard, that does not allow to use wire ducts? It seems that even during the house construction is would be much easier to run cables that way rather than relying on studs...
squalho 3 months ago
@squalho what a poorly thought out response. The point of this video is not about running new wire from existing outlets but rather installing brand new outlets that never existed before.
strumpeteer 1 month ago
@strumpeteer The video explains how to fish cables. My comment was related to the fact that fishing cables is just a big pain, whether you have to do it to run a new wire (and/or remove the old one) or to install a new outlet.
squalho 1 month ago
@squalho
Are you talking about the pure electrical installations of a house? Installing power outlets, distribution board and so on? I don't know how you do it in the US but here in Sweden we use plastic pipes within the wall. We call it VP-rör (literally "VP pipe") which is a stiff plastic pipe in dimensions 10, 12, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40 or 50 mm in diameter. The 16 to 25 are the most common ones in a normal installation.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
There is also something we call flexrör (literally "flex pipe") which is a flexible pipe as the name suggests, or just "slang" ("hose"). I believe the common brand is called PowerFlex. These pipes are commonly used in concrete walls or near the distribution board. They are flexible and simply easier to work with in some situations.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
Then there is something we call "dragfjäder" (literally "pulling spring") which is like you said a flexible probe, and it has a stiff spring at one end (hence the "spring" in the name) with a loop at the top. So what you do is you start at outlet A and you feed this probe through the pipe system in the wall until it comes out at the other end, B!
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
Then you strip one or several copper wires (i.e. ground, neutral and live wire) and you feed them through the loop hole and twist them to tie them to the loop and you feed them back into the pipes by pulling the "pulling spring" back in from outlet A until the wires reach the outlet. Then you cut the wires at outlet B and you have all three wires installed. Simple and easy!
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
The pulling spring can be up to 30 meters long, and if you're an experienced electrician you will know how to use it to pull out wires for more than one outlet at the same time, to speed up the process. But this is, as far as I know, only applicable for the electrical installation of a house. When you build a house you plan it so that the walls are prepared with pipes and holes in fire blocks (where applicable) so that everything is ready for the electrician to make the necessary wiring
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
But, again, this is only applicable to electrical installations. You don't normally use these pipes to "fish through" your audio or video cables, since you don't share the same pipes for audio and video with your electrical wires. It's not really a cable "duct".
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
There are of course cable ducts here too, but these are usually used in offices or schools in Sweden and they are "utanpåliggande" which means they are mounted onto the wall rather then "into" the wall ("infäld"). So they wouldn't look nice in a living room environment. Especially since they are almost always white in color and very large.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
Some of these cable ducts can even hold up one or several power outlets, Ethernet outlets and even telephone outlets, and they are situated about 1,2 meters up from the room floor (standardized height).
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
There are solutions, of course, on how to have the same type of convenience and ease of use even for your audio and video cabling. But you would have to think this through and plan it before you build the house.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
What this video clip is showing is how to add additional outlets to the wall where it was not planned from the beginning. That's why he was using a stud finder, of course, to know where to drill. It may not be the perfect solution, but it's as good as it gets. Otherwise you would need to tear down the wall or the whole building and build it up again with your audio and video installation in mind.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
The previous idea is too far stretched. The most simple solution would be to use simple decorative cable ducts and cable covers to neatly lay down your cables against the wall skirt, or even run it up against the wall or over the ceiling.
Altair8801 1 month ago
@squalho
There are also specialty products here in Sweden, like the one called "Kanallisten" which is a wall skirt with cable ducting capability, so you can run your cables through it effortlessly. No drilling holes in the wall involved. You can check out their website to get an idea of how it looks like and how it works, just search that term, the website has the same name. This might be interesting for you, if not, then I guess you will just have to drill that hole in the wall.
Altair8801 1 month ago
i love you monoprice
jyamich 3 months ago
Okay, a fire block. I'll just use cable cover on the floor. It'll work just as well.
Source: Myself.
cbltechtv 4 months ago 2
Why do I need to use these brackets??? Lol It's not necessary
DepechLyot 4 months ago
What is a "fireblock"?
kastnmagic 5 months ago
@kastnmagic its to prevent the fire from spreading quickly up between the studs.
lbgundead 5 months ago
This helped me greatly. Cheers!
KyleGP 6 months ago
Nice video, but get your supplies from somebody else. When I bought cables from them on eBay they shorted me a long S-Video cable. They wouldn't respond to my emails or phone calls AT ALL.
BruiserTom 6 months ago
any tips on what to do if the two hoes arent in the same place the bottom on is about 6-8 inches to the left..thanks
nr305 7 months ago
ok well this was pretty much accurate, how ever after the pumpkin cut when you used that super short paddle bit, in reality that wouldnt have been enough to get through the block at the angle you were at....also, hdmi cable connectors are pretty wide, its a good technique for passing RG6 cable or some other smaller diameter cable...but in reality they dont even make an extended bit that would be large enough in diameter.....you would need to use the "notch" technique.
NCWC916 7 months ago
This video was actually very good. I do premise wiring for my clients in addition to the typical network support and server setups.
One thing I would add -
ALWAYS start cutting horizontally first! Why? With or without a stud finder...sometimes there is a surprise stud in your way! So if you do, you can just reverse your direction and continue. If you start vertically, you most likely will not find the stud in your way until it is too late and have a bad mess. TRUST ME. Been there, done that!
briansnj 8 months ago
QUIX4U, please do us all a favor and take an English glass.
I love Monoprice.
undien717 8 months ago
lot of work for a simple job
jjasonell 8 months ago
Don't use annoying music....
falsedawn2 9 months ago
WHy do people add annoying sounds and music!
ejcsds 11 months ago
Or.. YOU ... could even simpler .. DO THIS .. & google:
NZ "timber framed" houses (pictures & images)
Or.. ask a NZ builder .. to 'photograh a building for you -- in all the varuious "construction" stages.
As We .. have not just wooden framing...
WE .. also "have" MUD BRICK & ROCK
The old way.
Solid & / or Hollow - Concrete Block
& IPC (infilled polystyrene concrete) "blocks"
(Other wise known as Hebal Blocks)
Plus - there are STRAW BALE houses, & even RedBrick (over wooden frame)
QUIX4U 11 months ago
@QUIX4U may (if inclined) simply GO around a few LOCAL building sites & PHOTOGRAPH these- just to show U (all) overseas builders- how MODERN (earthquake resistant) Wooden Framed "buildings" are constructed here in NZ (both before & after the THICK "fire-retradant" Insulating PINK BATTS- go in). Just to let U- "see"- how dam hard it is "here"- to GET anything else "inside"- or drawn (drilled) DOWN there-- after they're built.!!!
NZ WOODEN FRAMED BUILDINGS have lots & LOTS of horizontal "dwangs"
QUIX4U 11 months ago
AND .. i "just" lurv .. the way that American Builders (DON'T) "build" walls - with NO DWANGS .. always fitted between EVERY STUD - AND - at a t rate - of at least TWO - if not THREE "horizontal" 4x2's .. (although ALL - of NZ's timbre framing .. is smooth sawn at 95 x 45 mm now). THUS - "no" wall - in NZ .. has OPEN ACCESS .. between top plate & flooring (unless in OLDER houses .. which had 1" wooden Sarking & with skrim matting covering the walls - as most OLD houses without insulation HAD)
QUIX4U 11 months ago
Comment removed
QUIX4U 11 months ago
Ah 2 things (or should that be 22).
DRYWALL .? We call that stuff Gib Board- as it's made by sandwiching 2 "outer" skins of hard "Carding (Board) Paper" about an inner 8mm thick Fire-retardant Gibraltar Cement in sheets- "ready made" in either a standard size of 1200 x 2400 mm OR LONGER (such as 3600 mm & 4800 mm "Long-Runs").
Plus:
ALL NEW ZEALAND buildings (from around 1995 onwards) were regulated to had to have ALL internal walls (as well as exterior's) FITTED with PINK Fibreglass BATTS.!!
QUIX4U 11 months ago
Comment removed
QUIX4U 11 months ago
Great video, thanks for the help!
PickersInc11 11 months ago
stupid loud music turn your speakers down!
ejcsds 1 year ago
Great vid, but here's a quick tip - when plural, "quick tips" is spelled without the apostrophe (ie, not "quick tip's").
DeejayPulse 1 year ago
Thanks for the video! I LOVE your products. A couple suggestions for the video, though..
1. Around 2:08 you could give the approximate dimensions of the drywall hole. Also, suggesting that the installer pencil off the outline for the cut would be great.
2. The text on-screen around 2:58 has a typo. "don't be stresses out." should probably be "don't be stressed out."
DH405okc 1 year ago