You are such a nice sounding man, and thank you so much for the video. Here I've been trying a whole different way that only resulted in my slumped down in front of the keyboard feeling like a loser. I am going to try something similar to this, unfortunately I don't have an awesome little press like that, but I have a feeling this time, with what I'm thinking my project will be possible.
@TheRealJohnnyJaymes Glad you liked it but I don't use lacquer spray any more - it's so nasty! Now I iron on the laser print. I used a hand iron set on high; then I bought a hot tool made for the purpose at a hardware store, or maybe it was a woodcraft store. It works better and it's sorta like a wood burner so you can use it that way too. Keyboard? what's the deal are you both musician and .... ?
You're welcome, I'm glad you liked it, but I must add that I don't do it this way as often as I used to. Now I prefer a nontoxic, more sure-fire way which is to use a hot transfer tool I found. It's like a woodburner hobby tool, but it has a small, smooth coin-sized end on it. Plug it in, let it heat up, and then put the laser print face down on the wood and press the hot tool on it. It's a little tricky; if the art moves, it blurs. I tape it down lightly. You get better with practice.
I find a finish that doesn't dissolve laser toner - shellac, for example. Waterbase acrylic, a clear varnish in that line, would probably work. Or a neutral sealer, or even a stain-sealer, too, would probably work. The only finishes that dissolve the toner are those containing acetone, MEK, or lacquer thinner. Clear spray lacquer, for example, will make the image dissolve. Plain oil, like teak, linseed, or tung oil would be fine, I think. Thanks for the question
You are such a nice sounding man, and thank you so much for the video. Here I've been trying a whole different way that only resulted in my slumped down in front of the keyboard feeling like a loser. I am going to try something similar to this, unfortunately I don't have an awesome little press like that, but I have a feeling this time, with what I'm thinking my project will be possible.
TheRealJohnnyJaymes 3 months ago
@TheRealJohnnyJaymes Glad you liked it but I don't use lacquer spray any more - it's so nasty! Now I iron on the laser print. I used a hand iron set on high; then I bought a hot tool made for the purpose at a hardware store, or maybe it was a woodcraft store. It works better and it's sorta like a wood burner so you can use it that way too. Keyboard? what's the deal are you both musician and .... ?
halfwoodpress 3 months ago
You're welcome, I'm glad you liked it, but I must add that I don't do it this way as often as I used to. Now I prefer a nontoxic, more sure-fire way which is to use a hot transfer tool I found. It's like a woodburner hobby tool, but it has a small, smooth coin-sized end on it. Plug it in, let it heat up, and then put the laser print face down on the wood and press the hot tool on it. It's a little tricky; if the art moves, it blurs. I tape it down lightly. You get better with practice.
halfwoodpress 3 months ago
Beautiful... Thanks for the video!
tanariacarey 3 months ago
I find a finish that doesn't dissolve laser toner - shellac, for example. Waterbase acrylic, a clear varnish in that line, would probably work. Or a neutral sealer, or even a stain-sealer, too, would probably work. The only finishes that dissolve the toner are those containing acetone, MEK, or lacquer thinner. Clear spray lacquer, for example, will make the image dissolve. Plain oil, like teak, linseed, or tung oil would be fine, I think. Thanks for the question
halfwoodpress 4 months ago
Nice tip, but then how do u finish the wood if it gona be part of a project without messing up the print
jawadsaadi 4 months ago
the press is called a halfwit lol, pervert lmao
beamprimary 6 months ago