Without a lift, it's a tough challenge. You could use blocks of wood and jack up each side a little at a time. You would also want tall stands to support the cab. If you don't have a lift, replace the head gaskets in the cab.
hey man awesome videos! i have a couple questions. when removing the cab do you have to disconnect all the electronics for the cab such as radio headlights etc. and do you have to remove the steering column? thanks!
Thanks for the comment! When removing the cab, you will not have to remove any of the interior wiring, just what is in the engine compartment and the lower body ground. The steering column stay installed and you only have to remove the intermediate shaft.
Hey thanks for posting all these videos. I just picked up some ARP head studs and Black Onyx head gaskets as a preventive measure. Do you know if there's any way to pull the cab without a lift? Maybe with a couple forklifts or a backhoe or something?
Great timing to catch me on here and thanks for your comment. First off, replacing the the head bolts with studs is a great upgrade. But please use the OEM head gaskets. With studs will are far superior than the Black Onyx. I have readers on my page that have had the Onyx gaskets fail in less than 10K miles. You can partially lift the LH side of the cab and use 4X4 block for support between the frame. Forklifts work too. My new video shows this in cab with a special Snap On tool.
These videos are verry nicely done. Having been a heavy equipment mechanic I can see that you are a skilled technician. Who makes those cordles impact wrenches and how long does the batery charge last?
Thanks for the great comment! The cordless impact I used in these videos are made by Makita. The green 3/8 drive is over 8 years old and I recently replaced it. My 1/4 is about a year old now and still works great. Today's cordless batteries have a much better lifespan. My new Snap On 3/8 impact can go a week before recharging and I use a everyday!
Great videos, very nice to see how things come apart before I got into the job. I'm in the middle of installing ARP studs in my 2007 F350 right now as a preventive measure.
One thing that is obvious, you don't live in a "salt belt" where the roads are covered in salt during the winter... my truck is 5 years old and none of the exhaust manifold bolts had a head left on them. These are very difficult to remove with the cab on when a socket won't fit.. I wish I had a hoist to remove the cab!
Thanks for the great comment! Your right, we don't have a lot of salt used here in Oklahoma. They do use salt, but not to much luckily. Once you get your heads off, then you will get to fight the exhaust bolts. They break anyway, even without heavy salt.
I charge 18 hour for labor at the rate of $100.00 per hour. To replace head gaskets with OEM parts, it totals around $2500. If using head studs, add an additional $400.
@srmastertech Thanks for the reply, one last question: Do you need to lift the body off like this for any of the maintenance such as injectors or head gaskets or turbo etc.. on the '98-'02 body style 7.3 Powerstrokes as well?
The cab does not need to be removed for normal maintenance. The injectors can also be removed without removing the cab. Anything under the turbo like intake, heads, block, then the cab needs to be removed. The engine including the turbos could be completely disassembled with the cab on, but it does take a lot longer.
Your would need an actual transmission fluid pressure gauge with a normal 3/8 tap thread. The gauge should be able to read up to 400psi and be insulated so it doesn't get burned by the cat converters. I would have a shop do that, so that you don't need to buy the gauge. Trans fluid burns so insulating the line is critical! Let a shop have that irresponsibility.
Thanks! Would that be a "lazy" soleonoid causing low line pressure? Thing gets me it only does it at a certain rpm but not every shift from a complete stop. I don't know what I should do.
I would call it as a possible sticking solenoid. Since it doesn't feel soft on any other solenoid, it could be the specific shift solenoid, not a line pressure solenoid. Best this to do is to test actual line pressure when driving and monitor what happens to the pressure when it happens. A pressure drop would be a possible internal seal leak. Steady pressure during the concern could prove the shift solenoid is sticking.
Electrically and externally, PCM, vehicle wiring harnesses, transmission internal harness, shift pressure control solenoids, SSPC-B, SSPC-C, TSS/Intermediate shaft speed sensor can all cause that concern. Low line pressure would also be a cause, more on other gears also. Inside the trans, either the Intermediate Clutch Assembly and/or the Overdrive Clutch Assembly could be bleeding off pressure to allow the flair.
Damn! That's awesome! Is the 1/4 inch one heavy? I looked at a Milwaukee one but its way to heavy for what it is. Hafta check out that mikita one! Do you know anything about the transmission in an 05 f350?
It's a 3/8" Makita impact, that's the green one. The smaller black and white one is also a Makita impact,but in 1/4". My 3/8 is over 5 years old and still strong! To think I use it everyday!
@srmastertech great series i have enjoyed all the videos. I just finished watching all of them back to back. It was alot of hours of my life wasted on you tube lol but i learned alot. Im debating on doing my head studs and all of my injectors due to injector # 4 and maybe # 1 going bad. This videos have great video quality HD of course. Thanks for you time for making this great videos.
Thanks for taking the time to watch them all!!! Head studs are a great upgrade, but not for just a couple of failing injectors. You can replace the injectors in a day, your looking a lot longer for head gaskets! I appreciate your great comments!
Great questions. First I use Motorcraft metal cleaner. Then I scrape it with the bar stock. The bar stock is cold steel and it does no filings come from this. The debris it removed from the surfaces get stuck in the cleaner which is like a gell. Then it just wipes off!
@srmastertech Ahhhh, thanks. I just wondered about that. Could never quite see any cleaner on the bar stock. I knew you used it but, can't hardly see it. LOL Awesome videos my friend!! Can't hardly wait to see the next one. :))
@mwd92 it takes years of working on vehicles. Knowing and understanding how each system works, from engine, electronics, network communications, hydraulics, and so much more.
Again another awesome video! A few questions, why don't ford want the heads machined on a 6.0? Also of the egr cooler was deleted and headstuds where used how long you think the 6.0 will last? Also by you working at a dealer how much this guy gonna pay for all this? Thanks n keep on making videos!
Ford doesn't want the heads resurfaced due to the change in the combustion chamber. Depending on how much is shaved off, compression will rise and fuel strategy will change. After that other failures will occur like burning pistons.
My videos are only showing the repairs. The beginning of this series was the EGR and oil coolers. Almost every EGR failure is being caused by the oil cooler failing first.
It looked like either cylinder 7 or 8 since the piston looked steamed cleaned. Is it related to the regen cycle running to burn off the carbon in the turbo and dpfe?
You can replace head gaskets in the cab. You will need a strong back. If your installing studs, cab needs to come off. If your a DIY, it could be done, but it will be a very long project! It looks easy in my videos and I have been doing this a long time!
how would you get the cab off without a lift?
wc4pwned 2 weeks ago
@wc4pwned
Without a lift, it's a tough challenge. You could use blocks of wood and jack up each side a little at a time. You would also want tall stands to support the cab. If you don't have a lift, replace the head gaskets in the cab.
srmastertech 2 weeks ago
hey man awesome videos! i have a couple questions. when removing the cab do you have to disconnect all the electronics for the cab such as radio headlights etc. and do you have to remove the steering column? thanks!
raptorripper99 1 month ago in playlist More videos from srmastertech
@raptorripper99
Thanks for the comment! When removing the cab, you will not have to remove any of the interior wiring, just what is in the engine compartment and the lower body ground. The steering column stay installed and you only have to remove the intermediate shaft.
srmastertech 1 month ago
Hey thanks for posting all these videos. I just picked up some ARP head studs and Black Onyx head gaskets as a preventive measure. Do you know if there's any way to pull the cab without a lift? Maybe with a couple forklifts or a backhoe or something?
Redneckbakkie 1 month ago
@Redneckbakkie
Great timing to catch me on here and thanks for your comment. First off, replacing the the head bolts with studs is a great upgrade. But please use the OEM head gaskets. With studs will are far superior than the Black Onyx. I have readers on my page that have had the Onyx gaskets fail in less than 10K miles. You can partially lift the LH side of the cab and use 4X4 block for support between the frame. Forklifts work too. My new video shows this in cab with a special Snap On tool.
srmastertech 1 month ago
These videos are verry nicely done. Having been a heavy equipment mechanic I can see that you are a skilled technician. Who makes those cordles impact wrenches and how long does the batery charge last?
highdesertworkshop 3 months ago in playlist 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Cab Removal Ford Head Gaskets
@highdesertworkshop
Thanks for the great comment! The cordless impact I used in these videos are made by Makita. The green 3/8 drive is over 8 years old and I recently replaced it. My 1/4 is about a year old now and still works great. Today's cordless batteries have a much better lifespan. My new Snap On 3/8 impact can go a week before recharging and I use a everyday!
srmastertech 3 months ago
Great videos, very nice to see how things come apart before I got into the job. I'm in the middle of installing ARP studs in my 2007 F350 right now as a preventive measure.
One thing that is obvious, you don't live in a "salt belt" where the roads are covered in salt during the winter... my truck is 5 years old and none of the exhaust manifold bolts had a head left on them. These are very difficult to remove with the cab on when a socket won't fit.. I wish I had a hoist to remove the cab!
DuaneBe 3 months ago
@DuaneBe
Thanks for the great comment! Your right, we don't have a lot of salt used here in Oklahoma. They do use salt, but not to much luckily. Once you get your heads off, then you will get to fight the exhaust bolts. They break anyway, even without heavy salt.
srmastertech 3 months ago
How much would you typically charge a customer to get this done?
KLoughreyProductions 4 months ago
@KLoughreyProductions
I charge 18 hour for labor at the rate of $100.00 per hour. To replace head gaskets with OEM parts, it totals around $2500. If using head studs, add an additional $400.
srmastertech 4 months ago
@srmastertech Thanks for the reply, one last question: Do you need to lift the body off like this for any of the maintenance such as injectors or head gaskets or turbo etc.. on the '98-'02 body style 7.3 Powerstrokes as well?
KLoughreyProductions 4 months ago
@KLoughreyProductions
The cab does not need to be removed for normal maintenance. The injectors can also be removed without removing the cab. Anything under the turbo like intake, heads, block, then the cab needs to be removed. The engine including the turbos could be completely disassembled with the cab on, but it does take a lot longer.
srmastertech 4 months ago
Thanks! Sorry for jacking your comments but where would I take it to get that pressure test done??
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
Any transmission shop should have the correct tools and understanding to find your concern!
srmastertech 7 months ago
Great info!! How can I monitor the line pressure? Can I do it myself? Thanks man!
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
Your would need an actual transmission fluid pressure gauge with a normal 3/8 tap thread. The gauge should be able to read up to 400psi and be insulated so it doesn't get burned by the cat converters. I would have a shop do that, so that you don't need to buy the gauge. Trans fluid burns so insulating the line is critical! Let a shop have that irresponsibility.
srmastertech 7 months ago
Thanks! Would that be a "lazy" soleonoid causing low line pressure? Thing gets me it only does it at a certain rpm but not every shift from a complete stop. I don't know what I should do.
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
I would call it as a possible sticking solenoid. Since it doesn't feel soft on any other solenoid, it could be the specific shift solenoid, not a line pressure solenoid. Best this to do is to test actual line pressure when driving and monitor what happens to the pressure when it happens. A pressure drop would be a possible internal seal leak. Steady pressure during the concern could prove the shift solenoid is sticking.
srmastertech 7 months ago
@tmkbehkn
Take pictures as you take it apart, so you can visualize it going back together!
srmastertech 7 months ago
Can you tell me what it means when a 5R110 flairs on the 2-3 shift sometimes not everytime? Would the latest Ford update help this? Thanks!
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
Electrically and externally, PCM, vehicle wiring harnesses, transmission internal harness, shift pressure control solenoids, SSPC-B, SSPC-C, TSS/Intermediate shaft speed sensor can all cause that concern. Low line pressure would also be a cause, more on other gears also. Inside the trans, either the Intermediate Clutch Assembly and/or the Overdrive Clutch Assembly could be bleeding off pressure to allow the flair.
srmastertech 7 months ago
Damn! That's awesome! Is the 1/4 inch one heavy? I looked at a Milwaukee one but its way to heavy for what it is. Hafta check out that mikita one! Do you know anything about the transmission in an 05 f350?
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
the 1/4 is very light, lithium battery and it lasts! I do know about the Torqshift transmission.
srmastertech 7 months ago
Whats the size of the cordless impact? I see you use it a lot!
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
It's a 3/8" Makita impact, that's the green one. The smaller black and white one is also a Makita impact,but in 1/4". My 3/8 is over 5 years old and still strong! To think I use it everyday!
srmastertech 7 months ago
@srmastertech great series i have enjoyed all the videos. I just finished watching all of them back to back. It was alot of hours of my life wasted on you tube lol but i learned alot. Im debating on doing my head studs and all of my injectors due to injector # 4 and maybe # 1 going bad. This videos have great video quality HD of course. Thanks for you time for making this great videos.
DEFC0N4 7 months ago
@DEFC0N4
Thanks for taking the time to watch them all!!! Head studs are a great upgrade, but not for just a couple of failing injectors. You can replace the injectors in a day, your looking a lot longer for head gaskets! I appreciate your great comments!
srmastertech 7 months ago
Damn, Rusty, this series is outstanding! Great production and music too... many thanks
MikesFitnessGoals 7 months ago
@MikesFitnessGoals
Thanks buddy!!! I appreciate it and your welcome!
srmastertech 7 months ago
I've seen you use that bar stock 'bout a 100 times, ever worry about any of the filings dropping into the coolant passages? Just asking my friend. :)
TsmnnDvl5 7 months ago
@TsmnnDvl5
Great questions. First I use Motorcraft metal cleaner. Then I scrape it with the bar stock. The bar stock is cold steel and it does no filings come from this. The debris it removed from the surfaces get stuck in the cleaner which is like a gell. Then it just wipes off!
srmastertech 7 months ago
@srmastertech Ahhhh, thanks. I just wondered about that. Could never quite see any cleaner on the bar stock. I knew you used it but, can't hardly see it. LOL Awesome videos my friend!! Can't hardly wait to see the next one. :))
TsmnnDvl5 7 months ago
how do i become a master tech
mwd92 7 months ago
@mwd92 it takes years of working on vehicles. Knowing and understanding how each system works, from engine, electronics, network communications, hydraulics, and so much more.
srmastertech 7 months ago
@srmastertech i goin to college to become automtive tech and advise for new people
mwd92 7 months ago
Again another awesome video! A few questions, why don't ford want the heads machined on a 6.0? Also of the egr cooler was deleted and headstuds where used how long you think the 6.0 will last? Also by you working at a dealer how much this guy gonna pay for all this? Thanks n keep on making videos!
hondatuner88 7 months ago
@hondatuner88
Ford doesn't want the heads resurfaced due to the change in the combustion chamber. Depending on how much is shaved off, compression will rise and fuel strategy will change. After that other failures will occur like burning pistons.
srmastertech 7 months ago
love these videos. do you have any videos of the EGR problem with these 6.0 Great videos good camera angles
O7ROADKING 7 months ago
@O7ROADKING
My videos are only showing the repairs. The beginning of this series was the EGR and oil coolers. Almost every EGR failure is being caused by the oil cooler failing first.
srmastertech 7 months ago
It looked like either cylinder 7 or 8 since the piston looked steamed cleaned. Is it related to the regen cycle running to burn off the carbon in the turbo and dpfe?
gtech210 7 months ago
@gtech210
Your right on cyl 7 then next to it on 5. On the other bank, it was on 2 & 4
srmastertech 7 months ago
Did i see an aftermarket oil filter?????
pbalerig 7 months ago
@pbalerig factory oil filter cap.
srmastertech 7 months ago
How bad would it be for the DIYer to do the head gasket job with the cab on?
zytekfan 7 months ago
@zytekfan I know that I would not recommend it, Idk what he thinks
jboydmv90 7 months ago
@jboydmv90 Yeah I wouldn't want to attempt it either, but I've seen people do it on various forums.
zytekfan 7 months ago
@zytekfan If I had one of those come in too my shop for a head gasket problem, thats the only way I would do it
jboydmv90 7 months ago
@zytekfan
You can replace head gaskets in the cab. You will need a strong back. If your installing studs, cab needs to come off. If your a DIY, it could be done, but it will be a very long project! It looks easy in my videos and I have been doing this a long time!
srmastertech 7 months ago
@srmastertech Yeah, I'd definitely find a friend with a lift if I bought a 6.0! As always, thanks for the great video and response!
zytekfan 7 months ago
great video as always
subiekid110 7 months ago
@subiekid110
Thanks!!!!!
srmastertech 7 months ago