Added: 4 years ago
From: stephenhayesuk
Views: 14,921
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  • i love your videos! I bought holly plants, ligustrum, azalea, etc. (over 300 plants) from a nursery that was closing. They are ALL SOOO root bound! It's just a mass of roots when I take them out of the pot. I work for the longest time, untangling the roots so they won't continue to grow in a circle. When I saw the bare roots on this pear tree, I wonder: SHOULD I REMOVE AS MUCH DIRT AS POSSIBLE BEFORE I PLANT THEM? So the roots can get 'a new start'??? I have MANY more to plant! Thank you

  • @LSUTigerMom I would advise to disturb the roots aas littel as possible, but more important than that is to plant at teh right time of year and do so carefully. Julia and I have tried as best as we can in this video to chow how we think it best to plant a tree.

    another thing is to avoid the temptation to plant any kind of bush or tree too close together. They need enough space. But again, it depends on your souil and climate and what you want to achieve, close together is fine for a hedge

  • Have you ever tried to make a deep bed for fruit trees as described in the New Self Sufficient Gardener on page 110

  • @melonkernel no. deep beds for vegetables, yes. not syure what this means trees

  • @stephenhayesuk That was what i thought, But there were instructions there for trees as well. I guess it might be suboptimal for an orchard if you cannot ever step on the bed. It would be interesting to see the differences between two identical trees where one is planted in a deep bed.

  • I'm not too crazy about that graft job they did to this pear tree. Usually they are chip buded.

  • wow good job =)

  • that is a bad looking tree lol jk

  • @jerrydff7 small, but perfectly formed and with good roots. She's doing all right 2 years later, althoughnot grown as much as I'd have liked.

  • I have a 4/5 ??....different type of pears on one tree. It has never done to well & has all upright branches about 6 feet tall. Looks like a little soldier. One pear after three years & the DEER ate it! .......I also have a white nectarine that was 3 feet & next to a huge garage wall and LOVES its location & has grown 15 feet. And was covered in some kind of blight? BUT the tiny skinny branches are the ~hummingbirds~ very favorite roost in the entire garden! And after 3 years loaded with fruit.

  • Nice video. I planted 3 pears this spring but only one has gotten any leaves on it.

    I wonder if the leafless ones will come around next year.

    Thanks.

    ray

  • nice video. thnks.

  • He is coming soon. I hope you get some pears from the tree soon! I would love to grow a tree or two myself, but the deer around here......kill my fruit trees.

    God Bless, nice video's, thank you.

  • Thanks Tina. What with Israel, global finace meltdown, wars and rumours of wars and all the rest, can it be long now? watch the dome of the rock. But we DON'T KNOW so Julia and I are gonna GO ON PLANTING TREES.

    deer are an issue. two deer had unfortunate accidents in my orchard over the last 12 months One walked into an ounce of lead, another had an accident with a sharp piece of steel. It was very quick both times, and the meat apart from what we already ate is in the freezer.

    kind regards

  • @stephenhayesuk lol unfortunate accidents

  • hello Mr. Hayes,

    I would like to know if it is possible for you to post a video on how to prune a pear tree, which I immagine is different from pruning an apple tree! And can you suggest me a book that exaplains when is the best period and the various tecniques to graft fruit trees?

    thank you very much!

    Andre

  • Hello Andre

    pruning pears and apples is not very different. Pears grow better as pyramids. I will prune my pears in the next 2 weeks and will make a video.

    I have posted several videos on grafting which may answer your questions, so I won;t repeat myself here. The definitive book on grafting is The Grafter's Handbook by R J Garner, still in print. If you can get The Fruit Garden Displayed second hand or from a library, this classic RHS book has good grafting instruction.

    best wishes

  • Hi Stephen, would like to take the time to say thank you for doing the videos. We have just purchased our first trees and have found the videos very informative. Hope you do some more, thanks

  • Stephen:

    I stumbled across your videos about 3 months ago. I think you guys do a great service for people and I wanted to say thank you. I could tell from the first video that I saw that you were a brother is Christ. (just like a tree I could tell by your fruit "words") In this video you comment on Christ's return and a feeling of his coming very soon, I also believe we are in the last days! You are a good stewart of God's land! I will look you up when we get to heaven, Thanks again, Ray

  • I was just wondering what kind of pear and what kind of rootstock you planted?

  • This was a variety called Seckle, which originated in America from a chance seedling found growing in a wood. Rootstock is quince C, it was obtained from Keepers nursery in Kent, you can easily find them on the web.

    We also planted Doyenne du Comice, Conference, Concorde, Beurre Hardy and Williams. We also have pear varieties Doyenne D'Ete, Winter Nelis, Santa Claus, Josephine de Malines and Louise Bonne of Jersey. Pear names are even more wonderful than apples, they're mostly French

  • pears :)

  • PS the new pear orchard has grown on beautifully well, I will post a short video showing it soon.

  • If a tree seems a bit parched prior to planting, its a good idea to gently prune back the roots a tad and then soak in a bucket of water for 15-20 minutes and then plant. Also,firstly drive a suitable stake in the hole on the windward side of where the tree will be.The tree,once planted, should then be secured to this (without the possibility of abrasion),thereby supporting the sometimes still fragile grafted area from snapping in high winds.

  • No argument with that. The soil was pretty moist and moisture retentive and this tree had come very well packed from Keeper's nursery of Kent (check out their excellent web site) so there was no need of soaking the roots. We did soak the roots of an earlier consignment of pear trees as they looked as if they needed it, these didn't.

    I tend not to stake trees but it is wise if you have a bigger tree and smaller roots or a very windy site.

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