Added: 4 years ago
From: kelkid21
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  • i hope you have the timing cover off because your tuning the cam timing. some people leave them off even when there not tuning and it's dumb because your exposing the timing belt and gears to outside elements.

  • what are the numbers bro?

    and which b20 blocks have more tq the B or Z ones (b20B or B20Z)?

  • ummm i never heard vtec "crack" in this video

  • hi anyone know know if a b18 VTEC head will fit onto a h22a??? cheers

  • @xrsrule no it won't. H and B motors are very different.

  • @elcuellorojo any way to make an h22as VTEC to crack harder?? apart from cams??

  • my vtec in my b20 vtec cracks WAY WAY harder then that

  • @SupraBoiDriver thats probably because yours isnt tuned

  • @negusjuda mine is tuned chipped NOW turboed. Still hear the vtec crack hard.

  • Comment removed

  • @SupraBoiDriver depending on the tune, vtec may engage earlier for better response. it won't hit as hard, true, but having it engage earlier helps the engine develop more power during cornering. say you're slowing down for a corner, downshift all the way to second gear and you're relatively low rpm for racing but if you shifted to first your RPM would reach God's sandal. you gotta have some power through the midrange to carry through/exit corners.

  • @EliteMadHornet  HAHAHAHAHA!! WIN

  • stock b20b and b16 head is only 9:6.1 compression not 11:0.1 my b20 with gsr head and je pistons is 11:0.1

  • should be about 11.0 to 1, i had a buddy that had a b20z with a b16 head and it was 12 to 1, and b20b revs lower then a Z, theres about 2,000 RPM difference

  • Anyone know how much compression you would be at with a stock B20B block and stock B16 head??

  • i actually bent my valves cause i had my cam gears exposed like this video..a peice of rubber from my engine mount snapped went straight into the belt and fuk'd up everything

  • Other than snow or the like, where the weight of the engine plays a factor in aiding traction, in racing, this works against FWD other than for it. This is also common knowledge. Cornering: FWD-Slow on entry, quick on exit.

    RWD-Quick on entry, quick on exit.

    Before you try schooling me with your new-found knowledge, try studying it more before tossing it @ me.

  • glad you read your gran turismo manual....get fucking serious for a second... you're naming off simple rules of weight transfer. i was simply making fun of the way you describe cars cornering characteristics. If any car is going to fast for the turn, it has to slow down. This is not just a fwd characteristic like you seem to be arguing. AND no shit rwd have more traction of the line... what knowledge are you trying to share with me? Anything a 10yr old might not know?

  • "If any car is going to fast for the turn, it has to slow down." - No shit, sherlock.

    "what knowledge are you trying to share with me?" - Apparently stuff you're taking a week to learn & debate with.

  • and chances are, if a rwd and a fwd were to race, both making 300hp at the crank. 1. the fwd would be more efficient at putting it to the ground. i.e., the fwd will have more whp. and thus accelerate better. 2. it would probably have less rolling resistance (skinnier tires) and would also have a better coefficent of drag. a 300hp civic or integra would most likely have a better top speed becuase of less power loss, and a more efficient drive train....

  • This is totally false.

    1. RWD>FWD in terms of control & power delivery (pushing>pulling).

    2. RWD>FWD in terms of cornering (no understeer).

    3. RWD>FWD in acceleration (pushing>pulling).

    4. Hp=Top Speed & Torque=Acceleration. A 300hp-210ft-lbs Civic would NOT crush a 300hp-350ft-lbs Corvette. Not gonna' happen. Torque is everything when accelerating from a stop or around a corner.

    5. Skinnier tires means less traction. The car with the most traction will have the advantage.

    6. FWD>RWD in snow.

  • HELLO! if both cars produced 300hp at the crank, my only point was, the drivetrain of a fwd vehicle will put more power to the ground. You need to understand the relationship of hp and tq, becuase they are NOT hp=top speed and tq= acceleration. at not point does tq drop out and hp take over. Thats a foolish idea. learn thermo before you start ranting about tq to an engineer. You can't accelerate faster without increasing Hp output. You can't ignore 1/2 of the equation for power!

  • #1, torque=rotational force comes first. If you put 300ft-lbs of torque to the ground through FWD & RWD, the RWD>FWD. Why? EVERYONE knows that too much torque will produce massive wheelspin=loss of traction @ the wheels.

    Also, you absolutely CANNOT go past the fact that Pushing>Pulling. A car with FWD wastes energy PULLING than a car would with RWD. This is a fact. A 300hp car will waste more energy pulling itself than a RWD car would pushing itself.

  • if 2 cars both made 300CRANk hp. the fwd drivetrain is more efficient than a rwd one.? WHY, therotational force has to change directions. from traveling to the back, thena 90 degree tubo to travel to the tires, hense why a rw drivetrain is less effienct. around 10% compared to over 15%. so the fwd would have more whp than the same crank tq rwd car would have at the wheel. and explain how a fwd wastes more energy when i just told you the opposite. there is more heat loss in a rwd tranny.

  • Okay Mr. Scientist, time to shut your obvious recent study down. 1st, when a FWD turns a corner, both wheels slow down DRAMATICALLY to gain grip (hence understeering). This is a known fact. RWDs don't have this problem. They can exit the corner @ almost the same speed it entered. (Intense examples include drifting). That's right. You can break the rear tires loose, waste a little grip & energy, & still recover that energy to exit to corner with no ill effects. FWDs have to SLOW DOWN on an corner

  • tires slow down when turning? which means they were going to fast while going straight? And im not a scientist... being a scientist is a form of observation... I my friend, am an engineer. Completely different. ANd ur post about cornering, is what a 13 yr old who plays gran turismo would argue. ur lack of understanding the fundamentals in physics restricts me from ever making you understand anything. It would only lead to frustration on my part. SO tell yourself what ever. your clearly retarded

  • If you're an engineer, then you should also know about weight transfer, FWD's LARGEST weakness. When the weight shifts from the front to the back, the front wheels lose traction, they do NOT retain it as what you're trying to suggest. You can't make me understand what you have a lack of understanding of. As an engineer, you should already know this obvious disadvantage as to why a RWD>FWD. Don't try to come off as smarter than what you are. Study more, then come @ me.

  • i know weight transfer! Were we not taking about CORNERING?? I can't get you to understand because you have add and can't stay on topic! I designed a program that ran 1/4 mile times. Everything from adding rolling friction to static and dynamic mechanics! Dont fucking sit here arguing the logic of wt transfer when a 5yr old watching movies can pt out! did u or did you not state "when a FWD turns a corner, both wheels slow down DRAMATICALLY to gain grip " for one. That is NOT called UNDERSTEER!

  • Weight transfer is a HUGE factor in cornering if you would like to go THAT route.

    1)Weight transfers from rear to front when you're slowing down or stopping, increasing the traction on the front wheels, thus increasing the grip & SLOWING DOWN THE SPEED OF ROTATION.

    2)While this is happening, combined with the mechanics of FWD, it RESTRICTS the car from making a full turn. This is what we call "UNDERSTEERING'. Trying to sound intelligent when you're not annoys people. You shouldn't do that.

  • Btw, Understeering & Oversteering might happen for trying to gain to much grip but they have completely different responses.

    I understand static friction, rolling friction, & dynamic mechanics. I also understand the laws of physics, laws of gravity, & MUCH more.

    If you threw RWD & FWD around a corner with the same force, provided that they are both within their limits, the RWD will exert much less energy completing the corner because it will have the proper traction needed. The FWD would not.

  • since when do you ever use the full steering lock ratio while racing? Are you racing in a parking lot? How slow are you racing that requires full steering lock? thats the only reason i can see someone throwing the cv joint shit around. and there is a video of 10 honda civics against 10 nissans (rwd). and all with varying mods within the group. the test was average lap time for each group. the honda fwd's were the quickest around the track, even being under powered compared to the competition

  • "since when do you ever use the full steering lock ratio while racing?" - I never said anything remotely like that but since we're here, yes, there are some tracks that force you to turn your wheel almost 100%.

    "thats the only reason i can see someone throwing the cv joint shit around." - CV joints are actually a much weaker than you think & can go whenever they are pushed, unlike RWD, where the components are naturally tougher.

  • for 1. understeer and oversteer happen for the same exact reasons. you only have 100% traction/ friction. So you can either accelerate or turn. over and under happen becuase u required or asked for more traction than 100%! if a fwd and a rwd were keeping constant speed, both would have the same cornering force if tires wt etc were the same. over and under only happen when u throw more at the tire when its at 100% limitation. RWD HAVE THAT PROBLEM 2! fortunetly wt transfer increases the normal...

  • you Dont even understand the terms that you are using. tires slow down to gain traction when turning? So they are spinning out of control when you go straight? And rwd and fwd both have traction issues. RWD is not "immune" to the laws of physics. you thoughts are of a ill informed 15yr old who plays gran turismo...I on the other hand have more technical education that you and i would challenge you to a "mind off" if i thought educated you was worth anything..

  • I understand what I presenting but you obviously don't know YOUR stuff, so don't insult my intelligence for your lack of it. I never said that RWD was immune to the laws of physics but when you compare them, please do so correctly. Exactly how the hell does FWD have a cornering advantage over RWD when the exact opposite is proven true everywhere!? FWD has CV joints, automatically limiting it's cornering abilities. RWD does not have this problem as the weight shifts to the wheels w/power.

  • talking about wt transfer is a concept you learn in like 10th grade. but just a simple question to challenge your ever expansing ego. If eveyr force has an opposing one. Push on wall, wall pushes back. So my question, which internal part is specifically responsible for a motors ability to make tq. i.e. what internal part is 100% responsible for opposing the crank tq output. i design motors and i dont believe you have as good as understanding about cars as you think you do

  • "talking about wt transfer is a concept you learn in like 10th grade." - Wt transfer is a constant learning process. Just because we know about it, doesn't mean we understand it 100% as we are STILL learning things about it.

    Torque is created by the distance of TDC to BDC, how powerful an explosion is per cylinder, Forced Induction (if the car has it), etc. Also, the main thing resisting the crank output is the transmission. Auto transmissions tend to take even more power than manuals

  • actually, 1. the tq number is not the distance from tdc to bdc. 2. i asked what internal part creates the actual force perpendicular to create a tq movement..

  • whats is it? i wana learn lol.

  • Seems to be a fun argument I missed out on, ah well, you guys seem to be doing well without me ;).

  • Could you state the single part that is responsible for torque?

  • the crankshaft

  • @yizzer2

    I was really hoping logic2reason was going to answer that. That way he'd have one correct statement on this page. lol

  • You do NOT have more technical info than me if you don't even know the basics.

    Listen to how you talk first of all before insulting someone's intelligence - "i would challenge you to a "mind off" if i thought educated you was worth anything" - If I thought educated you was worth anything? So now we're bragging about how smart we are while using Engrish?

    When FWD takes off from a corner, it's weight shifts to the rear, where there is no power.

    When RWD takes off, the weight goes TO the power

  • the point of arguing rwd vs fwd in cornering is repugnant in a scenario where all the factors can change. YES, a rwd might have an advantage in certain scenario's, just as a fwd would. Arguing over which one is better requires a set of non variables. Such as a particular race track. Where each car has different driving characteristics and would give advantage to 1 over the other. The opposite scenario could be played out also. so fwd is better if the factors are on the fwd side. vise versa

  • "a rwd might have an advantage in certain scenario's" - It has a general advantage in ALL scenarios. That's why it is commonly know that RWD>FWD unless snow falls. Nice try though.

    "Arguing over which one is better requires a set of non variables." - Not really. One can study the simple mechanics of FWD & automatically KNOW that it is inferior to RWD or AWD. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

  • If both cars made 300hp crack horsepower, obviously a percentage of that has to be deducted. But in terms of energy consumption, it's a well known fact that RWD>FWD in the fact that RWDs spend less energy pulling themselves than FWDs waste pulling themselves. Pull a refrigerator then push it. I bet you'll spend MUCH less energy pushing it than pulling it. Same concept applies to automobiles. It's true that a RWD spends some energy rotation the tranny & shaft but it's actually a minimal loss.

  • physics 101 states when transfering energy, direction change = energy loss... a rwd has to change directions. a fwd does not. hense a fwd power loss to the ground is LOWER! not HIGHER! And for your information, crank tq does NOT = wheel tq EVER! no road going car has a true 1:1 gear ratio. If you do, then your gearing is set up for over 300+mph! Do the math yourself. your ridiculous with your power and energy concepts. STAY IN SCHOOL!

  • I never said that Crank tq=Wheel tq. Please keep up with the conversation. FWDs also waste energy when turning a corner. If you place FWDw/300ft-lbs & a RWD/300ft-lbs side by side & launch them, the RWD will put that power to the ground more efficiently do to the fact that it has to push the weight for it to move forward. The weight is rather in front of it than on top of it (FWD). The FWD will fry it's tires & will gain traction slowly. However, the only time FWD can beat RWD is in the snow.

  • Line up a 300hp corvette and a 300hp honda. sure, the corvette might have a better 60 foot time. But ill bet the 1/4 mile tells another story. 300hp does 300hp worth of work. IF increasing tq without increasing power made a car faster, then your creating energy from nothing. HENSE THE 300HP TERM! if it were faster, then it would have to produce more power to account for more kinetic energy. Learn thermodynamics... and with 300hp, anythign about 60mph, there is no traction issues

  • Hp=Top Speed & Torque=Acceleration.

    "sure, the corvette might have a better 60 foot time." - Torque=Acceleration.

    "But ill bet the 1/4 mile tells another story." - Top Speed=Hp.

    Nice try on trying to correct me though. I'm an automotive mechanic in training so I get the gist of it. Also, just because you are an engineer, doesn't mean you fully understand the trade. Leave the boasts in your mind.

    But there is NO WAY a car designed for fuel economy will defeat a car designed for speed stock.

  • Also, there is NO possible way that a FWD car will put that much power to the ground more efficiently than a RWD car. That will never happen. You should learn physics. RWD is more efficient than FWD simply because of traction & stability (absolutely NO torque steer).

  • if this si jeff evans thats tunning your cars in great hands, hes the best on the eastside. JEFF evans FTW!!!

  • smooth vtec engagement. someone knows what ther doing

  • I never even heard that shit bro.

  • me either

  • nice

  • Watch my video lol all those cars slow compared to mine bad camra soz

  • i am still working on my integra wid 04 tl complete swap fahker is a b***H.

  • im building my b20 as we speak,

    the blocks out getting sleeved and the head is out getting built, the only confusion i have is whats the highest CR i can go on pump gas 84mm pistons?

  • How much whp and tq did u get? what b20 do u have? JDM, USDM, what year? i have a 96 b20...but i think compression too low to do b20vtec swap....not sure...what bolt ons are in ur car?

  • to fix your compression do what I did and just get RS Machines 84mm ITR pistons, it will bump your compression for vtec, i have a fully built b16 getting intalled on my b20b

  • Do u know ur compression as of now after u installed that? im really going after boost. which i want to keep my compression low but not that low. i would say 9:1 is what im after. How can i do this? and i still dont know what pistons to go after, im sticking with eagle rods and stock crank. just pistons dont know....84mm.

  • Well for that application your going to have to go forged pistons, maybe CP, or Arrias, or JE, and your going to have to get your block sleeved. As for your pistons for boost go to 84.5mm since your gonna have to bore and sleeve anyway for boost. Get "DISHED" Pistons for a low compression that you want for boost! BTW I HAD TO ORDER CP FORGED PISTONS THE RS MACHINES ARE ON BACK ORDER! =( my compression is now going to be 11.8:1 not bad for a start huh?

  • Yea, im planning on going CP or JE w/ eagle rods, friend has JE pistons for a compression of about 8.5:1 but i think that is too low when running on streets on low psi so i dont really want to buy them off him, its going to be a daily driver...Im not going for a sleeved block as im only gonna keep the boost low and hopefully the shitty cylinder walls hold up. Let me know how much power u make with that compression 11.8:1. Is there such compression of 9.1:1 or 8.9:1?

  • im not to sure, try researching on honda tech for the piston compression ratios you can also bump your compression with flat face valves and a slight bump with a resurfaced head =) and ill know what numbers i get after the dyno =)

  • Nice, nice...yea i spend almost all day at work on Hoda-tech just reading reading and if nothing new..i read the same thing over and over....I sure cant wait for your dyno...and now i know i can get the pistons from my friend and bump up my compression resulting in saving some money...THANX!!!!!

  • Sounded like you ran out of rev's.Whats the redline on that?What ecu you running?

  • yea i think that run was only to like 7k redline is at 8200

  • I have a jdm sohc zc with a garrett t-25 turbo in a ef hatch, my boy has a b16 in a crx.He wants to do a b20 with his head.Wonder what that will add.

  • nice! how do you feel about b20? worth it?

  • B20 is def worth it...do it right and u will have a reliable decently quick car...love the torque compared to hondas b16 and b18

  • nice! how do you feel about b20? worth it?

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